2005 Hyundai Accent Clutch Replacement Overview 

All Rear wheel American Cars back in the day were easier to service. I watched other Videos both Good ones and bad ones to get an idea of what to do and what Not to do. The crank seal Thrush bushing were OK. The car had 43,694 miles when the items were changed. The only reason we had to do do the work was that the Throwout bearing failed and did not want to damage anything else. We changed the clutch because while you have it all apart might as well replace the clutch as well as the throwout bearing.

I did separate the Bell housing from the engine. It gives you just enough room to remove and install the Clutch and throw out Bearing by loosening the front sub-frame bolts. (NOT REMOVING THEM)This car was a 2005 Accent. I don't know if for 2009 they redesigned the front sub-frame so you do not have to Loosen the Front 2 bolts.

No. Did Not Touch the Power Steering Lines. This was on a 2005 ACCENT. I did Not Remove the Sub Frame Nuts. I loosened them until the Transmission was able to Fit into the Pocket. The nuts were Never Removed from the car. The NUTS were holding on By a few Threads.

I cannot give you an honest answer. Did not go that deep into it. I only removed the Clutch disc, Pressure Plate and throw-out bearing. Would suggest to watch other You Tubers attempting it.

YES, I believe you Don't have to remove the Transmission Completely from the engine bay. I loosened the engine cradle subframe 2 Nuts in the front. (DID NOT REMOVE the nuts. Left only a few Threads to hold) and two screws in back (I did not touch). I was able to squeeze in the Transmission into the pocket on the driver's side. Also I supported the Engine under the Oil Pan. Those Long screws which have the heads cut off. HELPED GUIDE the transmission in place When removing and reinstalling the transmission back on the engine block. The Transmission jack was helpful in supporting the transmission. You can judge how much room you have to work with by watching the video with the Clutch removed and the transmission tucked inside the driver's wheel pocket with the front 2 subframe Nuts loosened.

Thank you for this video, it's very helpful. It was a really good idea to use the studs you made to help guide the transmission back in place. I have done a few subaru's with manual transmissions. On the subaru's with manual transmission it comes from the factory with the bottom 2 bell housing bolts are studs. I wonder if those studs would work for the hyundai/kia. Anyway thanks for the video.

@@tommygomez5343 I checked the Bolts I used. at 23:42 I used a 4 inch Bolt size M10 x 1.25 x 100 at the 7 o' clock position I had to cut off the head. At 24:09 I used a 4 inch Bolt size M12 x 1.25 x 100 at the 11 o'clock position. The bolt with the head cut off was put in first to start positioning the transmission to the engine. It takes the weight off the Clutch disc so the input shaft of the transmission can slide in without bending the clutch disc. It is like a second set of hands helping with the alignment. I put in the second bolt as to help with the alignment. I bought the bolts at Lowes.Hardware.