How to replace alternator on a 2008 2009 2010 2011 Honda Accord v6 3.5L If this video helped you, feel free to donate anything to help the channel grow. Cashapp - $balatbatbrian87
Thanks very much for your video instruction. When the battery light turns on while driving, The problem can be bad battery or bad alternator if the wiring is fine. After checking the battery voltage when the engine is off and when the engine is on, battery voltage is below 12V, the problem must be the alternator because my battery is new. It takes half a day to replace my alternator. Here are a few difficult things that I encounter: 1. To remove the fan, remove two 10mm top nuts and loosen two 10mm bottom nuts. To get access to two bottom nuts, I jack up the car and remove the bottom bra. 2. It is almost impossible to disconnect the fan power connector. I remove the tie of the wiring harness from the bottom then push the power connector up so I can push the connector tab. 3. The tensioner operates by hydraulic. I use breaker bar to push the tensioner bolt (19mm) toward the firewall slowly while removing the drive belt. I don't remove the belt completely from the pulleys, but after working with the alternator for a while, the belt slips off. I need the drive belt routing diagram to reconnect the belt after mounting the new alternator. 4. The width of the the flange of the new alternator where the bottom bolt goes through is slightly bigger than the old alternator. I use a hammer to reduce the width so it can fit into the slot. Testing: I turn on the engine, the battery light is no longer lit. I put the battery under heavy loads (air conditioner, headlights, loud speakers, ...) and measure the battery terminal voltage. It is 14.6V; so, the alternator is working. When the engine is hot enough, the fan turns on; so, the fan wiring is OK. The rebuilt alternator from B&J costs CAD $400 including core deposit CAD$ 95.00. The labour saving is CAD$180.00. It might not be worth the trouble, but surely I have fun.
It must be that time of the year, my daughter's 2011 alternator just quit suddenly and after being quoted $500 to have it replaced I decided I needed to do it myself. Great video and excellent information!! Thanks!!
I'm not a mechanic and I am somewhat disabled but I appreciate you making this video so now I can least understand what my mechanic will be doing if I have any concerns
Great job bro!!! This will be my 5th Honda Alternator job this year. I did a Honda Crosstour, 2 Pilots, and Accora MDX. They are basically the same steps!!! The fan was the only thing I didn't have to remove from those. I just removed the AC line hose bolt 10mm up to so I could move the alternator out between the hose. I will do this Accord the way you did tomorrow morning, by removing the fan!!! You can teach an old dog new tricks😇 Especially, if we are willing to learn!!!!
Hey.... how hard was it to put back the engine serpentine belt on the HONDA Engine Pulleys and reset thr TENSIONER PULLEY ?? Kindly please explain this to me .... thank you Sir !
@@MrQor2 I used a small pipe on the end of the wrench. It took me about 1-2 minutes to get the belt back on. I try not to take the belt completely of. It saves time, so I don't have to reroute it around all of the pulleys.
Thanks for the video. Walked me through changing out the alternator on my daughter’s 2010 Accord (in her college’s parking deck🙄). I appreciate you man!
Helpful video. Thanks Brian! Unfortunately its the coldest day of the year and I have to change mine out. But at least now I know exactly what tools I need and I won't waste time figuring it out or looking for them while my hands freeze...plus now that I've watched you do it, I'm confident that I can do it much faster than I would have otherwise.
Awesome video!! My alternator just gave out and I'm in a jam all I have is a socket set no wrenches after watching looks like I can make the swap road side. Thanks for the help!!
There are 4 screws for fan on this 2 on top and 2 on bottom If you guys can’t get the alternator in on the bottom , use a pry bar to move the spacer over on the bracket , it will slide over
I do want to add that my 2008 Accord has two 10mm bolts at the bottom of the fan that had to be loosened. I couldn't reach it from the top so I had destroy about 8 fasteners to pull a plastic shroud back far enough to get a socket on the passenger side bolt and a ratcheting wrench on the driver's side bolt. I had to have a floor jack to get under there to reach them. I wish the auto industry would adopt a universal fasteners for plastic shrouds and panels that are just as easy to get off as they are to put on. That shroud was the biggest time consumer by far of the whole deal BY FAR, followed by trying to get the fan wiring disconnected. That connector is not so hard but there is a squeeze type zip tie holding the wiring loom to a metal tab under the connectors that give you very limited room to move it and get your hand in there until that tie is undone.
Thank you for this. I thought I was crazy. Been trying to get that bottom fastener for about an hour with every 12-24” ratchet I have. There’s a line from the condenser in the way that makes it impossible to get to from the top. You gotta go in from the bottom and get at it with a wrench.
@@WeencieRants I hope you're done with it but I will add that the nut used to release the belt on the tensioner is cast, not machined on my car. I made the mistake of using a 12 point socket and about rounded off the nut. Definitely use the tightest 19mm 6 point socket you have. I believe the tensioner has a pneumatic strut instead of being spring loaded so it's hard to push at first and then gets easier the further you push. My brother-in-law brought some bolt extractor sockets over to get the belt back on. Hopefully I never have to replace the alternator again.
@@zaappp1588 hey thanks for the advice man! I’m sure it’s gonna be helpful for others! Yeah I noticed it was a cast part but thankfully I don’t own any 12 point sockets lol I got tried long ago from rounding off rusted bolts with those hahaha It was a bitch to get the belt back on without any help. Thankfully I managed to use my 24” breaker bar and was finally able to slip it on. I think the hardest way part of the job for me was getting the new alternator back in place. I measured it with my calipers and the place it goes was something like 1.81” and place where the alternator mates up was 1.804” so it took a lot of wiggling and curse words to get it to slide in.
How did you get the squeeze type zip off I can’t for the life of me figure out how to take it off the wiring loom it was under the connector but don’t know how to take it off
11:12 Hello Sir, GREAT VIDEO because it was very helpful... I wish you would complete the Vídeo by showing the REPLACEMENT of this ALTERNATOR Job because the process was very difficult for me., especially putting the serpentine engine.belt back on with the tensioner.
Great video. 3 rd alternator replacement. Why do they go out so much on the cross tour? And why so expensive? 400$ found cheaper on Amazon and internet sites
Question for you man. My battery light is coming on but it goes off when I'm in park and I accelerate a little bit but then comes back on when the RPMS drop again would that be the alternator? Battery is only about 1 year old and my current alternator is a refurbished one about 2 years old.
My advice to you is to take the alternator out and get it tested at Autozone or advance auto to be 100 percent sure. Or if you have a multimeter check the voltage. But it sounds like an alternator going bad.
I just replaced mine (thanks) but it surges at idle slightly and the tensioner moves back and forth a little bit. Alternator and battery tested good, all connections checked. Is my tensioner going bad now?
Man when i was trying to pull with the 19mm socket apparently i stripped that nut, it moved a little but now im fucked up cause the part of the nut when i was pulling the tensioner a piece was inside of the socket broken , so im wondering what else can i do to finish the job and finally pull the hell put of that thing. Also i can see a little hole in the nut where you put the 19mm socket, maybe a Hex but , if so please can y ok tell me what that number of hex bit if i can put it there. Thanks
Did you have an issue with the internal fan harness? Mine was snapped to a bracket on the same fan (don't get me started). Absolute nightmare to reach. Failed miserably and punctured my radiator
I think I got to see this video because I suppose that what is happening to me in my honda accord has to do with the alternator. Several electrical mechanics have already checked my car, however they can't find the cause of the battery dying from one day to the next. To be honest, I recently changed the battery for one that I found at SAM's and that is an Energizer brand, same amperage as the factory one. My car is the 2009 3.5L two-door coupe version.
@@dr.hermannrodriguezcastill3589 yes, between 13 to 14v while running is healthy. Anything lower than 13 means you have a charging issue….usually a bad alternator.
Can i ask you how much you charge him im about to do one and i have to go to the cluent house that its 10 min away i don't know how much to charge him i was thinking about 175$
@@BrianBalatbat sounds good thank you for replying i end up telling him 200 he agree but he did not want to pay 300 for the alternator anyway he want the vehicle in his father and law garage so i put the battery of car nice and charge and drive 30 min away and i charge him 140
Ok I’m at the last bolt. I always remember lefty loosie , righty tighty. But wit the 14mm bolt. ( Bottom back alternator bolt ) Would I need a breaker bar . I believe My bolt is stuck 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Make sure you’re turning it the correct way, if you are then the tensioner might be stuck. You can cut off the belt with a blade and replace the tensioner too.
I love that you don't even show what to do with the timing belt which Is really an important step to do cuz you can't progress until you do that part. But if you miss that part of you can mess the whole car up which defeats the whole purpose trying to fix alternator to get the car running. And I also love the fact how you're doing this video to show other people how to do it. But yet when you explain it, you use words people readily cannot identify with because they're not mechanics
@@heyyeshyou Just did mine, same issue. mine has hydraulic tensioner, just replaced. make sure to oil bolt and bleed tensioner or your bolt will break. other forums have discussed this. trick is to put constant pressure on tensioner to loosen not push like spring type.
This video is missing some information. I've done this repair now twice. That intake hose on the front needs to be removed as well. I'm certain that's why you didn't take the alternator off in this video. There is also a bolt that goes into the alternator that holds the hose in place that needs to be removed also. I normally take the entire thing off, but it is challenging to put back because of the location of the bolts.
I got to the fan protector and removed the two bolts but there was still a bolt or something holding it on the bottom You mentioned unhooking the electric component from fan too but there was none I could find. 🥱 stressed.
@@donaldfrancis5512 sounds like you went about it by trying to remove the fan itself. There are additional bolts underneath but you must first remove the splash gaurd which is held by a few plastic clips. This method takes longer to me but if you have access to a lift. It can be much easier for you.
I'm about to do this they really ( auto zone) wanted me to buy a belt too.....is it harder to do when replacing the belt. Do I have to fully remove other parts?
How much does a REBUILT ALTERNATOR COST for 2008 HONDA ACCORD V6 3.5 Litre Engine ? How much for a NEW ALTERNATOR for this HONDA Car ? I was quoted $ 620.oo for REBUILT ALTERNATOR at NAPA AUTO PARTS in TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA.
