In case of just the bearing itself to be the failure point, you can replace it separately from the hub assembly, remove another snap ring and press it out. Replacement part is 6009DDU or 60092RS
Thank you very much. all your instructions were clear, and the way you made the video was efficient. The snap ring is kinda a pain, but I like the Idea of not having a massive nut you have to toruq to some absurd value. keeps it more simple for a diyer and you dont have to worry about it ever coming off (especially when ppl just impact it on). interesting design by ford
Very helpful video, will save this video I'm replacing my hub bearings some point this month or next month after I get my ball joints done, but I would use an air wrench and a impact wrench myself to get rear nuts off
Grinding is usually a sign of a bad wheel bearing, yes. Make sure you check both sides and of course you can take it to a tire shop like a Goodyear store and they will sometimes do a diagnostic look for a minimal fee. Could also be a U joint if you have a 4x4.
Not sure. 3 ton jack, but the stands aren't marked so my guess is 2 ton stands. The truck is ~3.5 tons at curb weight so heavy duty stands would be a safer option.
I agree, the clip was one of the more aggravating parts of the project. I was able to get it on when I realized I had some play in the axle. I put a bar in the I joint and pulled it forward which gave more room to get the clip on. Hope that helps!
I'm not sure that front wheel wasn't the problem...that look your front axle knukle vacumm shaft seal is bad... I know because I have the same problem. Because all the shit do you show on the video come from the that seal not from the wheel bearing... like I said I'm not sure but look like same problem I had.
