2008 Honda civic transmission filter change 

NOTE: i posted this comment on another video , so sorry if it seems like this comment is talking about this video when in fact it was talking about the "Dannys DIY Garage" Video, i wanted to copy and paste it here so it hopefully helps others trying to do this job in the same way this video(Hands On Dismantler) helped me also i did not remove the battery or PCM i just did this job and it took me 5 hours, i can 100% say i learned so much and i am able to give tips to help out others who will be doing this by themselves, first of all, watch another video of this from a youtuber named "Hands On Dismantler" his method is what i had to use and he states the reasons of why its the better way(if you dont have a hose remover shown in this video) , why do i also believe its the better way? because removing the hoses from only the filter is nearly freaking impossible let alone using grips to loosen and move the hose clamps, theres no freaking space and you can only use one hand. Heres my TIPS [Extra tools needed]: -BUY hose removers or hose separators (seen in this video) -buy many different pliers, all kinds, long pliers, curved pliers, straight pliers, 90 degree long pliers are a MUST!!!!! i cant stress this enough - buy extra hose clamps of many sizes( you will most likely drop one from the breather hose and the one going to the airbox -buy WD40 to loosen filter hoses since they are brittle and hard -strongly recommend to just go ahead and buy new hoses of the one we are going to be removing just incase. -lights many lights, i had 2 of them fail me today due to having them on for 4 hours, they failed me when putting the new filter on, i had to use my phones flashlight to complete this job in the dark diyers you will struggle, this is a very very very hard job if youve never done it before. [Job Tips]: - remove the cowl cover and the metal thing under the plastic cowl cover, this will make removing that god damn airbox wayyy easier, i removed it without the cowl cover but had to remove cowl cover along with metal cover to be able to reinstall the stupid airbox back in, its nearly impossible to reinstall without removing cowl cover. - use PB blaster, oil or WD40 in that dumb clip thing that is to the left of the airbox in order to slide it out easier and remove the airbox. - before removing the ATF filter from its housing, leave the upper atf filter hose connected to the filter and instead follow the hose rubber towards you and remove it from the metal line instead, use WD40 first, then with pliers carefully twist it a bit then spray wd 40 again and twist it while pulling and it will easily come loose, once loose remove it, after that now we can remove the atf filter bracket to free it from housing(its still attached by hose in rear) - now here is where it gets hard, theres 2 ways to do this, if you have a hose puller tool (shown in this video) since the filter is now free and you can move it to see the rear hose, you can use the pliers to loosen and move the hose clams and use the hose puller to disconnect the rubber hose from the filter, ORRRR if you dont have a hose puller, follow the "Hands On Dismantler" method, follow the rubber hose and youll see its attached to a metal line that is shaped like a U. same principle, use pliers to remove the hose clamp and use the filter to twist it slightly clockwise and counter clockwise until the hose gets loose" DO NOT PULL ON THE FILTER" if you damage the line shaped like a "U" you will need to replace it, however i observed that you can twist the filter which still has the rear hose connected and it should loosen up the rubber hose from the U line, once loosen up stick your arm in there and gently pull on it but be careful not to pull too hard on the U line, its strong but lets play it safe( or buy a replacement, doesnt seem hard to replace) - at this point you will have the ATF filter out but will still have the front and back hoses attached to it , now its easier to remove them since the part is out of the car. Re assembly tips: - you can install the front hose first onto the filter but do not install the rear one yet( basically only install the hose on the filter that will be facing the front headlight) - first install the rear hose without the filter into the U line, then use the pliers to place clamps back on. - now the filter should have the front hose attached to it, attach it to the metal line in the front so its held by the hose to prevent it from being dropped behind the transmission when its time to install the rear hose( dont place clamps on yet) - once the filter is connected to the front metal line, place the filter in its housing without putting bracket on in order to hold it in place and make it easier to slide in and connect rear hose( getting to use both hands is impossible so this is why i say place filter in housing so its held by it to connect the rear hose onto the filter, or else as you try to connect the rear hose the filter would just be moving away since nothing is holding it) - once you get the rear hose connected to the filter, now you can then disconnect the front hose from the front metal line again in order to push the filter to the side so you can re attach the rear hose clamps back on and adjust the hose if needed. -boom we are almost there, now we simply reconnect the front hose to the metal line and place the clamp back on and now we can push the filter into the housing and place the bracket back on and tighten it with the 10mm bolt. - now since we have the cowl cover off, we can reinstall the airbox much much easier and re assemble everything and BOOM we are done. i hope this method can help make this job a lot easier for you guys

You give good advice, and I wish I came across your video before I replaced my filter. Totally bent the u-pipe. Luckily I was able to compress the kink out as a temporary fix, because it's going to take weeks to get a replacement. Can definitely see this as being a common mistake for the folks who attempt this less common job.

This video was a life saver. Thank you so much

Thank you for making this

Bro , you are best

Good information, thanks for sharing

Thanks Bro!

We have a 2007 Civic two door coupe with automatic transmission. The original engine was a Honda recall that had crack in the block. The replacement engine is the next step up model and is very low powered. We took it into another dealership to have the tranny fluid changed, as we found out that there was a superior Honda fluid upgrade from the original. It did seem to help the shifting and performance at first. I asked the mechanic there if they replaced the transmission filter? He looked dumbfounded and then laughed and said there isn't one to replace. Now, we discover via your video there is one. Also, the car is beginning to shudder between shifts. Any solid advice please? Change fluid to what type and or replace the transmission filter like you did? Thanks!

Can a bad transmission filter make your car feel a bit sluggish or like its lacking power?

I replace my filter with an OEM but was unable to clamp down the bracket with the bolt. Did you think the diameter of the filter has slightly changed ?

I have a 1.8 civic with a 5spd mt does my trans have this filter

After changing gear oil and filter how many km should we change again gear oil and filter

Recently did it kinda difficult but manageable with patience but! Bent the bottom wire/pipe where the lowest hose goes. Bent back into place no leaks. Should i be ok??? 😮

If you do go from the underside, is it easier to access?

What if putting a neodymium magnet like a 1" coin on that filter?

Probably a good idea ro remove rhe wiper cowl for more clearance.

Hi there, what is the interval for replacing this filter?

Do you have to flush transmission fluid?

Que pasa si no se cambia ese filtro

does the filter actually ever need to be changed?

The guy in the other videos just did it. Without removing battery or pcm