No click bait here!!!! Just a guy who loves anything with a engine! I have spent over 10 years working on cars and trucks and its about time I start show casing what I do in hopes that it will help others! we all have to start somewhere and I hope I am the start for someone looking into doing their own work on their own vehicles. This is a new channel for me so any feedback positive or negative is welcome! Thank you and I sincerely hope you enjoy.
Hey not sure if you monitor this old video but my car seems to revs while stopped or parked when only my AC is on.. I think that’s Normal do you agree? Thanks ❤
Instructions are super easy to follow and video doesnt include any obnoxious sidetracking of any sort. Just straight to the point and then we're done. Super helpful, thanks! 👍
Honestly these days, alarms are pointless. No one ever comes to help when they go off. They usually go bad and cause issues. Almost every new car comes with a factory alarm already installed. Dealerships just install these KARR systems INTO the factory alarm and charge you extra for it.
Does CVT transmission oil expand in volume if it is old and dirty? My 2017 civic now has 190K km on it, and bought it used with 30K km on the odometer. First CVT oil swap I'm doing and think I may had my car slanted forward as when I drained the oil, 4.8 litres came out. Now I only have 4 litres to refil the car with. Do I simply use the 4 litre and add 0.8L of the old oil I've taken out? I don't know if the old dirty oil expands in volume. And I'm hesitant to use the bolt level check if indeed the CVT volume expands of the car is not leveled properly. What do you guys think?
Everyone’s drain amount will be different that’s why the check bolt is there to check the level as you fill. If you used all the bottles and you still need more, I’d recommend trying to get additional new fluid. It’s not worth the risk putting dirty fluid back in.
@@HandsOnDismantler What do you mean "risk" for putting back dirty fluid? I've readded about 500 mL of dirty fluid back. I mean the dirty fluid was in there and transmission was working fine, so where is the risk in adding back dirty fluid?
Does the car have to be perfectly level? Im on ramps in the front and jacked the back. My garage is sloped. So im unuse what level really is.ni think the back is a tad lower then the front of the car. Not sure how sensitive the transmission is to over filling? Ill measure the liquid which was drained to see how much came out.
Thanks. This was driving me nuts and went to several tire pressure stations to make sure gauge was correctly reading 35 psi in all 4 tires. Just tried your instructions and all is well. Would be nice for Honda to put in the owner's manual. Made my day! Thanks again.
You give good advice, and I wish I came across your video before I replaced my filter. Totally bent the u-pipe. Luckily I was able to compress the kink out as a temporary fix, because it's going to take weeks to get a replacement. Can definitely see this as being a common mistake for the folks who attempt this less common job.
@@HandsOnDismantler Luckily the pipe didn't puncture. It just bent in such a way that would restrict flow. As a temporary fix, I used a vise to work the kink out and it's been fine. The replacement pipe arrives this week, which means I'll get some practice doing the job over again 🤣
Good morning!I have been watching your video for changing the transmission fluid.kindly advise regarding Honda Civic V-tec gear box.Here is the situation when start driving this vehicle for some few metres, for gear 1 and gear 2 I experience strange movements,it jacks,also takes does not have smooth gear change.
Replacing the filter MIGHT help this … IF. It is dirty and clogged. But depending on the mileage they transmission may be on its way out. I would not recommend a flush at this point. If warranted, you could take a shot at doing a transmission drain and refill but do not do a flush
My 2017 civic EX has 190K km on it, bought it with 30K km on it. About to do my first CVT oil change. 1. On a manual I found it says to run the car till operating temperature and then start to drain/fill the oil. Is this necessary does the oil amount/thickness change with temperature? 2. Can I just add the same amount of CVT oil back in which drained out? Without having to go through the check bolt procedure? 3. Read if a car has gone long without a CVT oil change that a full flush is not recommended as it can damange the transnission by removeing the sludge, is this true? If so a oil change would be enough? Regards, Rev
Getting it to operating temps ensures the correct amount of fluid is in the trans pan during service. No, you’ll need to use the check bolt to make sure you have the correct level. With proper maintenance a FLUSH is never needed. And if you wait too long a flush can harm it more than help
That’s a good question. Honda hasn’t made a fix available for it yet. Usually when you take it to the dealership they will do the exact same thing. Hopefully they have a firmware update by now
@@HandsOnDismantler Thanks for the info. I recently started having a new problem, when I turn off my car it no longer saves my place on the track I was listening to, it always restarts from the beginning of the first track. Any idea what's causing that?
The new oil would just be contaminated from the old residual oil left over from the contaminated oil that wasn’t flushed out? But why is the oil contaminated in the first place?🤔🤔🤔🤔 trans fluid should be clean if you’re doing maintenance.
Pro-tip when you use the screwdriver to start working around the pressed in boot start with a small screwdriver and as soon as you get a gap around the whole unit switch to a thicker flat head screwdriver and then continue tapping around it pops right out every time
Some vids recommend warming up the oil prior to draining it in order for the oil to drain out faster and more completely. Do you recommend that? If so, how would you do that on a Hybrid since it starts out in EV mode? And how long should you have the engine running in gas mode? Also some recommend filling the new oil filter with oil before screwing it on, but how would you do that if it’s installed sideways?
All great questions, short answers… -warming up the oil/engine is not required. -In an EV the engine wouldn’t start anyways at initial start up. -filling an oil filter before installing is a myth. Your engine does not suddenly become “un-lubricated” because it sat for a day. These oils are designed to lubricate the internals and coat them accordingly. After draining and refilling. It only takes a few seconds for oil to fill the system. During this time no damage will occur. Unless of course you already have a damaged engine. At that point, no amount of oil will fix it. Haha
Mine didn't have one and so I was trying to figure out how the new hardware installed. I'll have to get a bolt for the bracket that's on the chassis, but you showed me how the strangely tapered part p01368 was supposed to go into the center link. I was wondering what that extra hole next to the idler arm was for... Thanks!
2013 3500HD. I got a 2 1/2" 8.8 (grade 5 sae approximately) m12 bolt. I had to bend the tabs on the chassis to line up the holes as well. Weird that mine just didn't ever have it as evidenced by the dirt and un-marred holes. I wound up replacing everything on the front end suspension (Pittman arm, idler arm assembly, center link bushing, steering damper, inner/outer tie rods, shocks, sway bar bushings and linkages, rotors, brakes, a caliper, upper control arms, lower ball joints, wheel bearings...) I flushed brakes and power steering (it was black) and now I'm going to go get new tires and an alignment and I think my steering woes should be over. Mechanic wanted $5500 for all that. I got all Moog, Monroe/AC delco/SKF parts for $1700 and 3 partial days of labor (They quoted $3300 just for parts). Your video was one of many that helped me accomplish it all. Really not a terrible job, but only since I'm not in the rust belt. Definitely learned a lot from this.
@@HandsOnDismantler So I finally got new tires and alignment done on it and yes, it is like a new truck. When I bought it I knew the suspension was shot and I figured I'd drive it like that until it couldn't be driven. Well, it was definitely time. The new shocks, ball joints, control arms, etc. lifted the front of the truck about 4 inches from where it used to sit! It feels like I'm pointed at the sky now and looks so much better (it used to look like I had a flat with how low the engine sat). It's still not as smooth as some vehicles, but it's a heavy dutry work truck with a 158" wheel base. Smooth isn't really its mantra. However, the steering is straight, it handles bumps and dips a lot better and I don't feel like I"m going to lose control on the wavy roads around here. I just need to remember to grease the fittings occasionally...
Holy crap dude it took me forever to find this info. And now that i did im pissed 😂 i have a 2015 accord ex and it honks twice when i press on the push to start ignition button. I had a feeling it was the alarm thanks for clarifying this. Any idea on how to fix it without taking it to a dealer?
Thank you! Your instructions were more complete than many others for this model. And you saved me some anxiety with the driver-side window reset. But I was surprised that even though the battery was disconnected from my 2017 CX-5 for 15 minutes, the radio stations were still stored in memory.
Yeah the radio presets is a normal thing these days. As long as the radio isn’t disconnected from the vehicle and swapped into another vehicle there shouldn’t be any issues with it. And you’re most welcome! Glad it was helpful for you.
So im confused. You did a standard truck tire rotation to just switch it to a car tir rotation because of your OCD. Why not just do the standard car one to begin with? you have two jacks.
Teslas are required to be lifted at precise locations due to the battery and electrical components. They can’t be lifted like standard vehicles. Or els o would have just put a jack at each end and lifted it up. 👍🏼
Thanks for the detailed information. A lot of folks don't know that there are specific jacking points on the Tesla models, that is not a lesson you want to learn the hard way. If you do not use the puks which are an optional purchase, or some other creative way to align your jacks lift point, you will send it either through the battery or the body of the car, neither can withstand the weight of the vehicle. It's not even an "If", it's an "it will". Also a plus for including the torque specs. Over Torquing the lug studs stretches the threads causing them to break off the stud the next time you remove the lug nut, under torquing them, well...we know when a wheel goes speeding past you, something is up....Personally when it comes to the rotation pattern I use discretion. If the tires have any abnormal cupping to the tread blocks, I would suggest an "X" rotation to help smooth out that pattern, I would also inspect the shock/struts since that is what typically will cause that kind of wear pattern. Otherwise I will just go front to rear, rear to front to keep the tires rotational direction the same. Has to do with the way the tire was constructed and how the plies have become accustomed to laying that direction, I try not to disturb it if I can help it. But hey people put used tires on their vehicles all the time not knowing what direction they traveled previously all the time without trouble. Just an educated guess at this point. Thanks for the content 🦾
Thank you for the detailed comment! I really appreciate seeing comments like this because although the video is short, editing takes hours :/ and it’s very nice and assuring to see people actually watch it and provide thoughtful feedback. You’re awesome! And I thank you. Now reading your comment I realized I forgot to mention the fact that not all Tesla tires can be rotated this way because of the use of directional tires. 🤦 I’ll make sure to add it to the description. Thanks again!
@@HandsOnDismantler Don't forget that the Model X and Y come with a staggered tire and wheel size, (wider rear, narrower front) can't rotate them technically. I mean you could, but ya know...🤣 Thanks for the positive feedback. Also appreciate your time and effort creating and editing the content. I don't have the luxury of having the time to record, edit, and post any content. Although if I had, it would have been thousands of videos, jeez.
I want to change the oil on my new Highlander Hybrid after the engine break-in period at 1000mi, then have the dealership (through ToyotaCare) change the oil at the recommended regular interval of 10K. Do I need to reset the maintenance when I change the oil at 1K since it would throw off the scheduled maintenance interval for oil change?
you wouldn't need to reset it, if you did reset it you'd essentially be having Toyota do the oil change at 11k miles. if that makes sense. My personal opinion, don't wait to do oil changes at 10k miles. unless you plan to not keep the vehicle for more than 80-90k miles.
@@HandsOnDismantlersounds good. Thank you! Can you provide a link or a pic for the jack stand adapter that fits into those two grooves that you mentioned at 1:32? Just wanted to make sure Im looking for the correct type of adapter. Im guessing it’s called a pinch weld adapter?
Hello, thank you for the comment. Because of the channel I am not able to provide links as it may be considered partnerships and or promotion. I’d recommend typing in the year make and model of your vehicle and then the part you’re looking for into google and different websites should populate
Hello, these videos are not always done with my personal vehicles. I don’t have access to this one at this time. But your dipstick will have level markings on it to show you where it needs to be
