If I'm not mistaken, this will work for vehicles equipped with the JBL amplifier as well because you're only robbing the audio signal wires. The factory JBL amp integrates a lot of other OEM features and to retain those, the amp must stay in place and powered. I like the OEM functions and NAV so for me it is important to keep those options. Adding an aftermarket amp is fairly straightforward with the right harnesses and this will allow you to revert back to factory audio and connections should you decide to sell the vehicle.
Thanks for the nice video. Can you please explain the wiring of the speaker wires? Where do you get the plug that is connected to the 9 conductor wire? Also, does the tailgate speakers work in this setup? thx!
Hey there awesome video I bought everything to do this and realized I didn’t catch the crossovers you installed. I see there are two in the video but no detail is given. How do I install these crossovers and what type should I get? Thanks so much for a great video, I appreciate your response to help me out. -Jason
Excellent video thank you!! Quick question though. Do you need to run RCA's for your sub imput? Or does the amp take care of that part? I have never used a 5 channel amp before. Does the amp produce a sub output signal with the 2 sets of RCA's provided? Thank you
I just spent $700 for a sound system. I installed it myself on a Tacoma. Professional installation should be around $2-350 or more if you want to install an equalizer/epicenter.
It isn't as complicated as you may think. Start with a wiring diagram of the vehicle's radio harnesses, as sometimes, like in this case, the vehicle's audio output wires don't match the industry standard. Once you've identified what the manufacturer set you up with,, you can carry on. Separate the audio ins and outs in your two replacement harnesses, as the will each get a section of 9 wire soldered and heat shrunk to them; one going to your input (in my case an LCQ-1) the other going from your amplifier (in my case a Kenwood XR802.5). The remaining harness wires (constant, acc, dimmer, etc) gest soldered and shrunk from male harness to female harness. Depending on your set up, you may require an additional remote wire attached to the harness from the radio. Some notes to consider as you watch this video: On the 4Runner, it is cleaner and easier to run the power wire through the firewall on the passenger side, then loom and zip tie to the main harness in the engine compartment. Wire just laying under carpet beneath the pedals is bad juju. Also, take your time to find the best ground location you can, as audio equipment isn't cheap, and noise from insufficient ground is incredibly annoying- almost as much as doing a job twice. Be certain to secure your components (LOCs, crossovers and amps) the best you can, as vibration and electronics typically don't get along well. Additionally would recommend separating power supply wires and audio signal wires where it is possible. And finally, spend the money to purchase some ABS to mount your amp to vs laying it directly on the carpet where at one point or another it will come into contact with water as it is absorbed and spreads throughout the carpet. Good luck!
Hey Chris. I’m pretty much doing the exact same thing you are doing. Pretty much a amateur at this. Could you give me the part number for that “NVX CROSSOVER “?
So do the wires exiting the amp go to the passive crossovers and then using the 9 wire cable transport the amplified and cross-overed signal back to your t harness where it ties into your factory harness? Or does the amplified signal leave and go straight into the passive crossover and you run your own wire to each of the factory speaker locations thereby by-passing the factory speaker wires? Sorry I was just trying to understand how you wired the dash tweeters with the 6 1/2" speakers on the door. Thank you in advance you have taught me so much about my car already! Sincerely, Charles
Did you reverse the channels so front rca's go to rear input of the amp to get full range and use that to send signal to subwoofer? Just built the harness and using LC7i and I have been seeing 4runner and Tacos want to reverse the input wiring since front speakers have full range and send more power. Hope that makes sense?
Hello, How do you get a single for the subwoofer since you are using a 4-Channel Line Output Converter, i am trying to do this build for my 2016 Civic too
Our amplifier is pulling signal from the front channels to provide for our sub channel. There is usually a switch on the amplifier to indicate that setting.
DUDE! Please tell me the size of those 4 bolts needed to mount the sub enclosure!!! I will buy you beer! You have a big channel, so I hope you see this! Thanks in advance.
@@codymicallef5650 i went a slightly different route. i have a 2020 4runner and toyota completely changed the wiring for the 2020 and beyond. So i ended up buying a harness from tacotune and then created a T harness. I ended up using a small sony amp which fits in my glove compartment
The Axxess AX-DSP-TY2 T-Harness Adapter is discontinued (as in your description). Does the Axxess AX-DSP-TY4 T-Harness Adapter would work? I found one. Thanks
There was a small wire with blue showing at the tip. It was sticking out buy the T-harness. Is that the remote wire and does it need to be connected too?
Yes or else the amp will not turn on. The blue wire found in the 9 conductor cable needs to be connected to the 4Runner’s accessory wire - in our T harness red wire.
Hey, how’s that ground point holding up? did you notice any alternator whine or noise in the system? I’m thinking of using that same ground point for a 1000w mono amp. It looks like a clean grounding point!
@@ProvoBeastAudio Interesting, Now I'm wondering why you chose that ground point for that 1100Watt amp and going against your own advice... HACK JOB!!!
Curious on how adding the amp using existing speaker wires, isn’t there a concern with the front factory wiring being parallel and the rear door w/rear hatch being in series? I’ve been trying to wrap my head around this in regard to ohms/watts output from a aftermarket amp to speakers. Thanks
With the rear two sets of speakers wired in parallel, and having each speaker @ 4 ohms, that drops the impedance down to 2 ohms at those two rear channels, thus making the amp more efficient (being also stable at 2 ohms per channel), and putting out more power. Works great in the application.
@@roryegan9111I don’t know if helps you now, but I’m doing a 5 channel JL Audio RD900/5. For the rear speakers wired in series, I’m going to bridge them so the amp sees a 4 ohm load to each side
In the end, it's not a great ground. I recommend using a ground to the front seat cross bar where the front seat legs mount for a better connection with less resistance.
Where did you make the connection from the Amp output on the 9 conductor cable to the harness? Is there a crossover not shown on the video? Also will you consider selling the entire diy kit?
T harness to line out converters (color for color), and we soldered the wiring. You can also alternatively use butt connectors or crimp caps if needed.
Provo Beast Audio Installation Really clean install, but you should explain more about the splices you did to make that custom harness. I, like many others, bought everything to do this, with no info on how you made the harness. Could you possibly explain it or make another video? Love the work, just beyond confused on the custom harness with all these parts.
