Very in-depth guide that I’ve watched 3 times at this point for my upcoming replacement tomorrow! I’ve always had a hard time watching repair videos like these because people might gloss over torque-specs or little things that they don’t encounter but you might etc. But you laid it all out greatly! My turbo hasn’t thrown any codes but as far as I know, the unit is close to 11 years old now. So I’ve decided to update her :)
This is by far, the best and most comprehensive video I've seen about any car repair. I will be removing my turbo very soon, and I can't thank you enough for putting this all together. I'm thinking I blew the gasket, but I'll be using your tips to inspect the actual unit, and the block surface as well.
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to change out the turbo on my 2017 Encore Essence. It just went over 204,000 miles and has thrown the low boost code 3 times, so I'm doing this a preventive measure before I actually have serious damage. Watched this video twice and had my grandson watch it as well, so we should be good to go. Thank you for your patience and diligence in this presentation.
Did you have any warning signs that the turbo was on the way out? My daughters 2017 encore has a burned rubber smell to if after driving a while. There are very light vapor traces coming up from underneath the manual heat shield. It got me wondering if the turbo bearings are going out. I have replace the oil feed line a few months ago before this problem started. The oil line was clear so I dont think the turbo was oil starved.
@chrisrose1508 I just replaced my turbo on my 2013 Encore just days ago. There's was no symptoms besides a code I get whenever I cruze the freeway. I believe it was the underboost code. And another code from last December-March for catalytic o2 sensors reading its running rich. After taking off the original turbo, I saw a huge hairline crack inside of it. Yours sounds like it's time to make the swap.
I wish all DYI videos were this detailed. It’s like going to mechanic school! I’ll be digging into the turbo on my 2015 Buick Encore very soon. I realize Garrett has a very good name for longevity in turbos. However, it’s seems there may be an aftermarket turbo that wouldn’t be prone to cracking and or malfunctioning on these engines. Has anyone tried another brand? I replaced the turbo on my diesel truck with a different brand that had a two year warranty. I paid a little extra to get a lifetime warranty. Please comment if you’ve used a different turbo.
I would have changed the oil and filter also just to have everything start out fresh. Excellent video and very informative. The details, tips and tricks help a lot.
By far the best turbo replacement video I've ever seen. I've ordered my parts and hope to get to it next week. I have a 2015 Chevy Sonic 6-speed LTZ. It has 197,000 miles, original turbo (I bought the car new), but I have changed the oil every 5k (instead of 7,500 as recommended) and I use Mobil 1. My turbo isn't dead, but the low boost code came on and I'm willing to bet the thing is cracked.
Oh man, you gave a lot of us hope that they can go 200K. I definitely change my oil before 5K and now that I'm almost at 40K, it's also time for me to change the tranny fluid and coolant. Fluids cost less than ruined engines and drive trains.
You are awesome. You take in consideration for "cheap" people like me. The video is awesomely detailed with all the necessary parts numbers. The cinematography is above standards because you make sure every step is filmed completely. Thank you so much for the video!
Thanks so much for such a detailed procedure! Also appreciate seeing what goes “wrong” while replacing the turbo. I know that I’ll be doing this Turbo replacement on my 2013 Cruze in the not too distant future. Very impressed with the depth of your knowledge - watched one of your other video’s regarding replacing the OEM radio in your GM vehicle and the need to reprogram the eeprom to the correct VIN. Excellent information, carefully and well presented!
i know this is a older video but i love how you do your work right to the T . i know if you skip something from the manual i know you are still going to do it right unlike some other people who wanna heat up the turbo split it in half and all that crazy stuff. you have been a life saver on this car for me. my daughter has a 14 encore and her grandmother has a 13 encore so i have to do a lot of work to them.and the Buick are very hard to find info on. and the service manuals are 600.00 dollars . and i could not find a chiltens or a hanes manual. and i am only looking for torque specs and have a very hard time finding them. but i did find you and i am very grateful. thank you so very much. Have you ever brought any service manuals on pdf ? if so where and was they trust worthy? i see them on ebay but most say the link never works thank you again and i wish you the best.
Thanks. Those links in the video description work fine. Some folks don’t get that these books are only available used, so the search link won’t always show availability yet they comment its not working. These books were not intended for the general public, they are for repair shops so not like buying something new at Amazon. ;-)
Hi ,I got a intermittent p0299 comes and goes on my 2017 buick encore, next weekend I'm gonna look at the possibilities you suggested, but I already bought a new turbo on Amazon, lol before I watched your vido,last time I changed the oil it went away for like 2 months now oil change is due again and it's starting again the intermittent p0299 ,anyway thank you so much for the video, awsome job ,🍻cheers
your video was a great tutorial A++ Hi I replaced my turbo and exhaust as you did but I also did head gasket which was my first go to do as i was R/R i noticed my turbo waste gate was binding, so my turbo was bought aftermarket but id like to ask how the book adjust the actuator for wastegate cause mine is still throwing underboost P0299 code. Cause you please do a video on over vacuum boost to and throughout engine bay...also I'm getting e it ready for smog, smog tech told me drive 120miles and return hes saying its 2nd O2 sensor.can u help?
Thanks. There's no GM service manual procedure for the wastegate adjustment. That's done at the supplier factory and not something the GM dealership technicians were supposed to f with. If anything with the turbo is wrong or amiss, the service manual troubleshooting tree would land on _replace the turbocharger assembly_ only. That all said, there is this GM service bulletin that goes over the wastegate actuator preload check that might help you - static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145482-9999.pdf
Great video! I used it to replace the turbo on my 2016 Encore. I did/am having troubling reinstalling the lower coolant line back to the block. I can get the banjo-bolt to the block but it start. Any tips would be great. It is one of the few things holding up completion of the job.
Thanks. When you say _"I can get the banjo-bolt to the block but it start."_ are you having trouble getting it to thread or something else? I mentioned in the video that GM uses a special tool for this bolt, to prevent torque damage to the coolant hard line. You will need to wedge some suitable tool in as an improvised solution to this concern. I used a long flat head screwdriver, for example.
Sorry for the poorly worded question. I can get the banjo-bolt to the block but I can’t get the threads to start, it just spins. Also, any recommendations on the hard to reach exhaust manifold nuts?
On the exhaust manifold stud nuts, those are all accessible as I showed in the video. You will just need a variety of socket types (long and short), as well as swivels and extensions to fit onto each one in order to get the proper torque. For the cooling hard line one, presuming it unthreaded ok when you removed it then there should not be a problem with the block. But there could be a problem with the fastener. First, inspect the banjo bolt threads for damage, chase with a tap die if needed to correct minor damage. If the threads are ok, then the problem is your alignment. You need to be dead on straight to get it in to avoid cross threading it. A telescoping magnet, or very long reach long nose pliers can help here.
Okay, one last question. I replaced the turbo in my 2016 Buick Encore and everything went fine. There are no leaks, it sounds fine and clearly runs better but I am still getting a P0299 error code. Any thoughts/suggestions would be great.
Definitely one of the best repair videos I've ever seen......if not The Best.... Appreciate your knowledge, insight, tips, thoroughness, attention to detail, and all of your time and effort put into making this video. Will definitely be subscribing to your channel......and will kick you a few bucks when I can. Thanks for the Awesome video on this one.
The most common signals that you may have a blown turbo are: The car has noticeable power loss The acceleration of the car seems slow and noisy The car doesn’t easily maintain high speeds There is smoke coming from the exhaust There is an engine fault light on the dashboard The damage to the turbo can be caused by problems such as: Insufficient oil in the system Wrong kind of oil Age and mileage of the car vehicle Damaged seals (causing oil to enter the exhaust system) The longer you drive your car with a blown turbo, the more damage the engine will have and therefore the more costly it will be to repair. Although the car will move with a blown turbo, it would be far more preferable to stop driving it and have the car taken to the garage to have the turbo repaired or a replacement installed. The longer the blown turbo is left without repair, the more damage can be caused to the car’s engine.
Best, most detailed and explained mechanic video I’ve ever seen!!! Used it to replace the turbo on my daughter’s car. Bought the OEM GM turbo at Rock Auto and sed your parts list on Amazon to get oil/coolant lines, gaskets and nuts, etc. the only issue I had was that the new oil coolant line banjo bolt was 18mm….old one was 17mm so you can imagine that I tried for a while to get a 17mm socket on a 18mm head. Great video and thanks again for all your help and advice!!!
Great installation video! Thank you very much! It is concise and contains enough information for even the most inexperienced soul who is brave enough to take on this particular task. He presents with a style that's measured and orderly with way more detail than usually found on RU-vid. I searched around for other videos to glean what detail I might be missing here. But I kept referring back here to Dr Shock. Add all the above together you'll find.... the DR knows his stuff. All this experience comes without that "preachy" tone found from some others. With this Dr there's no "Shock" : Just an "Awesome" video. ( >from a George W Bush quote about our military power.... "Shock and Awe" < )
Hey man I have a 2018 Chevy Cruze lt 1.4. I’m looking for a new turbo. I’ve seen some that look like yours but others that look somewhat different. Your tube has like a curve to it. But I’ve seen some that don’t have it. Any chance you know the correct one?
Just wanted to post a big thank you for this video. I don’t usually watch videos that are this long, but this video was an exception due to the content. All of the details of disassembly and assembly were extremely helpful. I put this on the garage TV as I was working through the repair. While it didn’t make those bolts much easier to get at, at least I knew that I was doing the right thing.
Hey Dr Schock, this is a service video!! I just want to say that your vids is amazing. I was really flashed from the kind of details what you used to descripe any steps.. Thanks a lot
@DrShock This video was very helpful. My turbocharger is making the same noise as yours was but I am blowing huge amounts of white smoke as the same in this video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gNbDUidJiZU.html). I am hoping to determine that the turbocharger is just the problem. Took to a local auto repair shop and he said the motor was blown, but I am not so easy to believe that. Do you suggest any way that I can bypass the turbocharger so rule out the engine being blown? Any helpful suggestions is appreciated.
It's odd the shop was not more specific as to the diagnosis, usually part of what you would pay for in a diag fee is to reveal this information. White exhaust from a gas engine is either coolant, or oil, or both. Perhaps there is both a turbocharger issue, and another internal engine issue the shop identified driving their diagnosis. Or, perhaps the shop just didn't want to put too much diag time into it and stopped after the first issue they found. Really can't say from what you've shared. But a turbocharger is far too expensive to load into a parts cannon. ;-) You, or a different shop, have to do a more detailed diagnosis. Remote diagnosis isn't really possible here, but if I came across this problem, I would do the following: - I would pull the scan codes, even if the check engine light isn't lit. The codes, even history ones, can help point to a confirmation of a diagnosis. Particularly for the turbocharger. - I would be looking to isolate the source of the noise. Is it coming from the turbo? Is it coming from the exhaust manifold? Or, worst case, is it coming from inside the engine itself. The latter could indicate game over, repair cost wise. - I would check for signs of coolant loss at the reservoir, or if I had bubbles in the coolant reservoir while the engine was running (or right after being shut down). If I had this, I would perform a chemical test for exhaust gases being present in the coolant. Exhaust gases would condemn the head gasket, at a minimum, and again reach game over, repair cost wise. Without any scan codes indicating otherwise, there's no real way to diagnose this further without an advanced scan tool like GMs GDS2 app and MDI adapter. What you would do next is check the boost levels on the turbo, to determine if it is functioning within specification, using GDS2 to monitor the live sensor data. A turbo with internal damage is unlikely to be functioning within specification, though it may be limping along well enough not to trigger the check engine light just yet. The stage after that is a partial tear down to inspect the turbo's turbine for internal damage, oil leakage (just dropping the forward cat and exhaust pipe like I show in part of my vid). And to inspect the cat for damage, from oil leaks (like in your linked vid) or turbo debris (from internal damage). Some of this is beyond the average DIY driveway operation though. You might be better off $$ wise to just pay a large shop, like the Chevrolet dealer, a flat rate diag fee just to root cause the problem(s). What you'll usually get is a laundry list of everything wrong with the vehicle direct from GM for ~$220 bucks (at least in my area) .
@@DrShock I removed the oil inlet tube and plugged up the other side of the oil feed inlet with a rubber stopper, which stopped the oil being fed into the turbocharger thus stopped all the white smoke from the exhaust. I believe, like in the video I shared above, the seals inside the turbocharger are blown causing the oil to be fed to be burnt. I used some pliers to move the actuator arm back and forth causing the turbocharger to settle down with the noise. Turns out the auto shop pried off the PVC diaphragm on the valve cover, so the valve cover has to be replaced. Word to the wise to make sure the auto shop you take your car to is familiar with turbochargers. They clearly didn't know what they were doing. I should have taken it to the dealership in hindsight. I ordered all the parts from the very detailed listing you did and hope to have this completed next week when they arrive.
@@brianmashburn648 Glad I could help. Yeah, that valve cover damage is unfortunately an all too common sign of inexperience with modern GM engines. That part is *not* a PVC diaphragm smh. They should know that the PVC for the GM Ecotec 1.4L is part of the intake manifold (silicone flapper bypass valve type) and turbocharger cross over pipe (two piece design). That timing cover part is a vent, which is now destroyed. I'm guessing your shop incorrectly focused on the white smoke as being a head gasket or cylinder head crack (i.e., coolant in exhaust problem). The simple chemical test I suggested, would have eliminated that possibility. Definitely don't take your car there again. ;-)
Awesome video, best for turbocharger replacement. Really appreciate the information and knowledge you are sharing and saving money of others. One question what is the torque specification for installing back new studs in engine block. Also which anti seize you have used on stud and copper nuts. thanks
Thanks! No anti-seize called for in the GM factory service procedure, the fact that the fastener nut is a copper clad/plated one is all that is needed there for that concern. I guess I forgot to mention that the service manual did not disclose any exhaust manifold stud torque value for the 1.4L Ecotec engine. When I run into an unknown torque situation like this, for a steel stud into an aluminum head or block, I just bottom the stud out by hand snugly. It's unfortunately subjective. Secure enough not to walk, calmed down enough not to strip aluminum threads.
Great video with a lot of critical information. The GM part numbers allowed me to get everything together right from the start without having to go back and forth for a lot of little things. Definitely not a beginner project and it would really help to have tiny hands in this engine bay.
GOOD JOB! I appreciate your time making this amazing video, I have two notes, 1st why don't you use the electric ratchet which makes it easier and quick, the 2nd is you skipped the most important stage the installation of the pipes. Thank you!
Thanks. I do see the reinstallation of the exhaust pipe, including the torque values covered. I also went over how to install the oil feed pipe and coolant feed pipe into the turbocharger. I don't spend as much footage/time on reassembly as disassembly as it's quite repetitive. Or were you referring to something else.
Thanks for putting out a great detailed video for this repair project. Questions that I have is what repair manual did you use and where did you find the parts diagram to print out ? Thanks Again! Jesse
Thanks. I only use OEM service information when doing repairs. In this video its the hardcopy GM service manual for the Cruze. There's a link in the description where you might find one used. The parts information is available from a GM dealership (which I have access to to print them out as a wholesale shop).
5hr job... every damn bolt was rusted.. spent a whole day.. did the job start the car up to realize.. customer supplied dorman manifold is warped & leaking.. 😑 Dont be a mechanic..
All the aftermarket parts for this GM engine tend to be inferior in both fitment and longevity. I've found only the OEM GM parts have the correct fitment and just refuse the work unless the vehicle owner pays for the OEM GM parts.
I'm about to do this with my wife's Sonic. However, she says she was told that it's required that this be done by a smog-certified mechanic. Is this correct as far as you know?
I've never heard of such a certification, but I'm from the southeastern USA where it's not a thing. I could imagine certain states outside the south may have more formal emissions related requirements for businesses performing repairs for a fee. Doing the repair yourself negates such concerns of course. You have the right to repair your own property. The challenge is limited to having the right tools, OEM parts, technical skills, and OEM technical information to do so.
Around 1 hour and 21 minutes you were showing a special tool that was used to hold the banjo bolt on the coolant intake that could prevent damage to the banjo bolt. What I have found is that it might also have something to do with getting the parts to align over the hole for the banjo bolt. Do you agree? I followed your instructions and had no problems installing the new turbo charger. The problem I am having for 2 days now is trying to get that 17 inch bolt that connects the banjo bolt to the block itself. Could that special tool be also an alignment tool to get the banjo to align over the slight boss on the engine block? I'm working on a 2018 trax and it seems to be impossible to move that banjo bolt 1/4" or so over to get it aligned with the threads in the block. How do you get it to align? You never mentioned it further in the video. You showed it completed saying you used a long screwdriver to hold it from bending. The only way I can even see the threaded hole in the block with the turbo and manifold back on is with a borescope. I'm finding it impossible to get it to lineup with the hole. What is the trick? It would really help if I knew. Do you or any of your viewers have a quick way to assure alignment of that flexible hose? I've actually taken it all back off until I can figure out a way to get that inlet hose connected. Thanks in advance!
I do not own that special tool, and I've never needed it working on either the Chevy Cruze or the Chevy Sonic with this particular 1.4L Ecotec (the RPO LUJ/LUV flavors). I do, as you note, recommend a improvised tool to prevent the pipe from twisting or crimping itself while applying the correct torque to the fastener though. I do these with the vehicles on ramps, and I do have access from below in doing so. As best I recall, that banjo coolant line fastener is a two finger hold from below while having a helper coming in from the front as I showed to thread in and torque. You are the second viewer to mention this, and what you both have in common is working on the Chevy Trax. It's possible that either the design is a bit different for access there, or that your 2018 Trax does not use the same RPO LUJ/LUV type engine that this video is focused on (there was a RPO LE2 variant that came out after 2016 which has a different Turbo setup).
@@DrShock that's the answer! A helper!! Thanks so much. The Trax seems so much more cramped. I've been under it looking with light and camera, but has thus far been fighting me. I found a thin wall tube that is perfect for 5 minute fabricating the holding tool, which will help me align it over the threaded hole in the block, since I am doing this for my grown daughter in my driveway, and I don't think my 70 year old wife wants to lay under the car! I'll get it on tomorrow! The video was a fantastic help. The first one is always the tough one. Thanks again.
@davehare8434 Hey Dave did you ever get it figured out? In the middle of turbo replacement on my trax and am hitting the same issue. Seems the a/c compressor is in the way of tightening the 17mm
Hey guys! Late to the party..lol. what I did was removed the 3 bolts for the thermostat, then removed the rubber hose. That gave me alot of wiggle room. From there, I lined up a short 17mm with a small extension while using my 3/8th electric ratchet. I used a magnet to hold the 17mm banjo and lined it up.
Thank you very much for such a detailed video I was abit unsure to do this but feel I'll manage it now took your advice and just replace everything while you're in there I've also bought a new oil cooler and assembly so I'll change it all tomorrow. Getting quotes of £1000 + so thanks really appreciated 😀👍🏻
Dr Shock is it possible to get P/N 55567067 coolant return pipe and the connector P/N 25199813 replaced without pulling out the whole turbo charger? My mothers car is forming a drip where this pipe enters the connector and it ends up hitting the hot exhaust pipe under it and smells. Before I saw your video I though this tube was similar to a flared brake line and thought I can tighten it. I was able to get a wrench to it from underneath by taking the wheel housing out and AC pump & belt but tightening did not work, it helped but still had some leaking I think the O-ring or seal is faulty on this connector.
Since you've already attempted to access this fastener, you can see that access is _extremely_ limited without removal of the full assembly. I would say this is not practical or economically feasible (i.e., it will end up being faster, less stressful, and take less labor time overall to just remove the assembly to replace the cooler lines). You should replace them both btw, as if the seal has gone on one the others are not far behind.
Thanks for the reply. Your video was most informative. The car is my mothers she only has 22k miles on it and uses it for trips to Casino and Sams Club. You are correct its to tight in that area to work on those lines. I did call Dealer and they quoted me $1038 + tax which included parts and labor. They suggested replacing both lines as you stated. They had to order the parts so I had to pre-pay $350. Since two coolant lines does not cost that much I can assume they will be removing the Turbo which probably is all the other gaskets/seals & coolant that you mentioned that were only one time use and would be needing replacement.
You could use my video, referencing all of the parts that the GM service manual says _must_ be discarded and replaced, to confirm what all they are covering in that fee on top of the labor itself. Don't be shy about asking when you don't see a part the manual says _must_ be replaced, not being replaced, since you are going to the actual GM dealer here. ;-)
Wow man amazing video! Can I ask if you ordered all the parts straight from GM or from a dealership? If straight from GM how is that done? I have a 2011 cruze LTZ
You can buy from the dealership but that would be the most expensive route. I have links in the description where you can get these from Amazon and/or eBay instead for alot less.
@@DrShock I also punch in some of the part numbers you provide in to Amazon and eBay and wrong parts come up. So all in trying to ask is how you got all the OEM parts in the video. Is it a combo of from dealerships and online sites or just online or direct from GM or is this like a secret machanics keep to themselves lol 😊👍
None of the parts were purchased at a GM dealership. That's too expensive. All were purchased online. Not sure why you're seeing wrong parts from the links, just checked them and they all look fine.
You should not have to touch the AC compressor for most vehicle types. But others have commented that the clearance on the Chevrolet Trax SUV is very very tight compared to the passenger car model I am showing. You need to be using a shorty socket, smallest height to fit in that space.
Getting ready to attempt this next week. Told the customer $650 with the new turbo assembly, oil, coolant and PCV lines and labor. Looks like I can do it in 4 hours. Fair price? $250 for parts and $400 for labor?
For that price it can't be genuine GM parts. Understand the failure rate on those Chinesium turbos is measured in months, not years. Labor wise you're in the neighborhood.
Great video...BUT you do NOT need the lift brackets on the engine. If it's missing, it's not going to affect a thing. I left mine off because i had an oil leak right around that area
Thanks. You need the lift brackets, to lift and service the engine (e.g., to lift and secure the engine while performing a replacement of the engine mount). That's what they are there for. They have absolutely zero to do with an oil leak, as the fastener for the bracket does not penetrate into anywhere oil travels. If you have oil leaking from a lift bracket bolt, you have a crack in the casting.
@@DrShock I didn't say I had an oil leak from the bracket. I'm not that stupid...but it's not a necessary part for the operation of the vehicle. Mine is sitting in my toolbox. It doesn't affect the engine.
59:50 If you want the two little O-rings for the other end of the pipe, I use little green ones made for BMW's that I got off FCP Euro. I can look up the part number if anyone cares. Those are the ones that harden and leak so I'd plan to change them out every 60k miles while keeping the stainless steel pipe.
If you are reusing the oil feed pipe here, and it's the revised design with the heat shield to prevent oil from clogging up the inside, then the GM part number for the o-ring is in the video description. A new GM pipe will include these already as well.
@@DrShock Oh yeah, GM also sells those little O-rings but with the price and shipping cost it ends up being about the same to replace the whole pipe. I already had the updated pipe and it's stainless steel so I didn't feel like throwing it away just for two O-rings. Anyway, I think another part suggestion is the Dorman 667-520 oil return tube. They use cast aluminum and corrugated metal instead of the plastic that falls apart. Why use another OEM plastic piece when you can upgrade to a better design?
Finding _Dorman_ and _upgrade_ appearing in the same sentence is almost always going to be an oxymoron situation. ;-) The return tube is supposed to be _somewhat_ rigid yet able to partially flex from normal engine operation, which is why it's constructed of synthetic materials. You should only be looking at replacement cost of this part when replacing a turbocharger. So like gaskets, a normal and expected maintenance cost with this GM engine design.
Speaking of normal maintenance on this engine, I've replaced the plastic coolant outlet junction on my car and on a random stranger's car. Used a plastic replacement from a local parts store both times because there wasn't time for an online order. Do you replace them with OEM or have you considered an aluminum version? Sometimes it's not clear if GM uses plastic to save cost or to avoid corrosion. I understand how inserting an aluminum fitting into the engine block where the original design is plastic could be very risky. With an external coolant pipe, I'm not so worried. I should keep an aluminum coolant outlet in stock for next time because the plastic ones are known to break routinely. It's actually a great engine once you get everything sorted out but little issues like these destroy people's trust in it. You're right in general about Dorman but they do have some well known upgrades like the Pentastar aluminum oil cooler to fix the cracked plastic OEM ones.
My wife complained that her 2018 Trax would hesitate and sputter on the highway and it made it dangerous to merge and pass. No codes set. My original thought was "tune up" because the car has roughly 100k miles on it. I replaced the coil pack, installed new plugs, and replaced that turbo oil line. She said it runs "better" but still will sputter. I took it to work today and it seemed fine until I got off the highway. When the light turned green, I attempted to accelerate; however, it just sputtered for a 1/4mile and blew some smoke. Then it accelerated. Also, I smelled oil in the cabin. Just got home, took off the heat shield and removed the c-clip and actuator arm to test the wastegate arm. I found that the actuator is full of oil. What would be the cause of this? The check valve (PCV) on the intake is still there, the purge valve is functioning, and the diaphram on the valve cover is ok (no air rushing in).
Excellent video of this process. By the sound of it, a repair like this is going to happen whether that’s in 25,000 miles or 75,000 miles. A smart and much easier preventive maintenance ( other than changing the oil at or just about 5000 miles ) is to replace that inlet pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold and into the turbo. Maybe 5hat will get you much more miles out of the turbo?
The banjo bolt coolant line from the back of the turbo to the block that everyone struggles to start is much much easier if you take advantage of the quick connect. Install the female connector in the turbo. Don’t plug the line into that fitting yet. Instead, take the line to the block and start the threads of the banjo bolt by hand while the turbo is still off. Leave loose so the line can move. Hang the turbo/manifold on the studs but don’t fully tighten anything yet - have a helper hold it or use only one nut threaded only a couple turns on a stud to prevent it from falling off. Then from below position the line and slide the male end of the line into the female quick connect and click it in. Torque the banjo bolt and make all coolant hose connections and pressure test the system (air only) before torquing everything else down or adding coolant. This is the time to see if you have any leaks in the coolant system. For the line that goes to the cooler, you can go ahead and preinstall into the quick connect because it’s easy to make the hose/clamp connection on the cooler end. Also, having long reach torx bit sockets will make some of the manifold stud nuts easier to install since space is limited around some of the nuts which may prevent some hex sockets from fitting.
I don't have this problem, but I noticed how little the engine shakes here. I have a 2014, 1.4 turbo and the engine shakes a lot when idling. But it seemed to always shake so, idk...
Shouldn't be any different than what you saw with this vehicle. I would suggest a cylinder misfire condition, but you should get a DTC with that. Could be an engine mount wearing out.
Hey thanks for the reply. I have no engine codes. Can a dtc tell me smth is wrong even if no engine light is on? I'll ask my guy next time to check the mounts and ask if he finds cylinder misfire
I wonder how important that bolt pattern is lol I kinda just gave it some wiggles and dispersed the right turns amongst all the studs as I went. Got dark on me so I guess we will see how it goes in the morning 😅
It would be unlikely to be enough getting in there to warrant an immediate _panic_ but oil changes/filters are cheap. So once the job is complete and you've successfully tested everything you could address this concern with an oil and filter change immediately thereafter.
I have learned that doing the coolant lines for the turbo are much easier if you have a car lift! Especially the one with the banjo bolt into the block.
Lots of videos on how to fix this and that on this engine. Wish someone would post one on how to rebuild it for reliability and a bit of a power of a power boost.
Is that coolant inlet banjo bolt thing always 17mm? Cause I can’t for the life of me get it to turn and I can’t barely see the thing or even reach it with my head to check if my socket is going on or not. Idk how you made that part look so easy lol
For whatever reason, on my 2017 chevy trax, it was an 18mm instead 😵💫 after an hour of thinking I just couldn’t catch the fastener blind, it was just bigger the whole time 😅 Jesus Christ lol
There's a few flavors of this 1.4L Ecotec engine, I put the regular production option (RPO) codes for the ones that this video is specific for in the description. It could be that you have a different RPO engine and it's a different size, or that the Trax just uses a different part/size there, or the tube is an aftermarket part rather than original GM there.
@@DrShockcould be either/or yeah. All I know is I’m really thankful for this video right now lol. The compressor on this hunk of junk is also mounted slightly different and ends up obscuring 1/8th of the freaking banjo bolt, making it impossible to back all the way out with a socket/ratchet. I can’t wait for this job to be over 🤣 thanks again for the awesome video!
Quick question to anyone who may know the answer. With the assembly still installed and to get better access to the lower manifold nuts, could you disconnect the actuator rod and remove the v-clamp shown at the 56:00 minute mark and separate the manifold from the turbo assembly? Thanks for any and all help and yes, this is a great video!
Thanks. You can separate the exhaust manifold from the turbocharger unit, but it is not an approved service procedure by GM. GM does not offer the exhaust manifold as a separately serviceable part number, nor the v-clamp that secures it. Technically the v-clamps are one time use parts, being torque to yield in nature. So if you went this route, you get into a catch-22 situation. You wouldn't be able to replace the v-clamp as it's not offered for sale, yet it's required to be replaced. ;-)
I did some research with google lens and found your light. Apparetnly they make a Braun 500 now, so, that's what I'm gonna buy. I have a weeping turbo cooler line, ya that one behind the turbo lol. I didn't know that a cracked turbo made a sound 🤔 I will have to go listen and compare. Do you throw any codes when that happens?
Hello. Do you have the repair book for the astra j 1.4 turbo in pdf format? Can you post it here or tell me where I can get it, I can't find it to download it on the internet. I'm from Romania. Thank you very much.
This is a great tutorial. Um so the #8 bolt on mine is right up against the exaust so much that there isnt enough clearance to get a socket(used a thin socket) in there to remove it. What should i do?
Thanks. If you're referring to the copper clad nuts, you can use either an outside socket or an inside bit for those. There are no bolts retaining the exhaust manifold on a factory setup, just studs.
Thanks. Yeah GM shows fitment for the turbocharger part number 25201063 for all models, 2011 thru 2020, with the 1.4L Turbocharged engine with RPO LUJ or LUV. These are the first two Ecotec 1.4L variants. The newer engine you mention was an RPO LE2, and it is different. But apparently the older engines continued to be used in some models somewhere even after 2016.
Subjectively, you should be able to tell if you've lost the performance benefits while driving the vehicle. There's no externally visible indication of correct operation (the only moving part externally would be the wastegate actuator lever). But more specifically, you'll need a bi-directional capable scan tool in order to monitor the operation while driving, such as the boost metrics. This engine, almost always, will post a diagnostic trouble code if the turbocharger becomes completely inoperative as another indicator.
Dr.Shock, is it possible for this turbocharger to cause the engine to overheat? The Buick dealer told her that her turbo overheated and caused her engine to overheat. They pulled 2 codes and listed them as; P00299 Engine underboost Turbo/Super charger underboost Secondary DTCs P00B7: Engine coolant flow insufficient Most likely solution Replace Turbocharger assembly ‐------------------------------------------- So I ask again; Can the turbo cause the engine to overheat? I can't find a definitive answer and I need to know. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you. I appreciate you. ~ Jeremy
Possibly, impossible to say for sure in a comment board of course. But let's go thru a _potential_ scenario. The first code is directly related to the Turbocharger. The second code _could_ be indirectly related. The Turbocharger has a feed pipe to keep fresh motor oil flowing to it for lubrication and cooling. And in addition the Turbo has a coolant hard line running to it to keep it cool with fresh DexCool. So one possibility for what she was told is that a leak developed in the Turbo cooling line, which _if_ that happened, could cause a Dexcool coolant loss that eventually affects the engine cooling overall. Eventually. But that's just one theoretical possibility from the info you've shared. The dealership service manager should be explaining these root cause details tbh. I would simply ask them to connect the dots for you, where specifically did the Turbo fail that then affected the overall engine? Asking what did they do to confirm this is not a multi-point failure (i.e., another cooling system component has also failed in parallel). Typically the best mechanics to work on your late model GM vehicle are at going to be employed at the GM dealership. But quality can vary greatly from dealership to dealership like with anything else in business, and so it's important to develop a long term relationship with one dealer you can trust that is willing to spend the time to make you comfortable with what you are going to pay them for.
@@DrShock I will share the information with them and encourage them to start a dialogue with the service advisor and should that fail to speak with the technician and, if necessary, the service manager at the Buick dealership that they use. I have never seen such an anemic service form given to a customer before. I wish that I could share it with you so you can see what I mean. I have worked for Cadillac, GMC, Oldsmobile, Infiniti, BMW and numerous other dealerships (all under ONE business umbrella) and NONE of those dealership's service departments would have given a customer so little information about a major and COSTLY repair as this dealership gave to my friend's Daughter.
I'm not experienced with that engine RPO. But I would expect there will be similarities in the procedure. I'd also expect there will be a different service manual layout with different part numbers and designs for some components, different size fasteners with different torque values involved. GM ended up using the 1.4L engine/turbo layout of the LUV/LUJ RPO I go over here (which came out in MY 2011) in parallel with the other 1.4L designs like the LE2 (which came out in MY 2016), in the years this video covers, depending on the vehicle model. So you do have to take note of the RPOs.
The official GM service manual, same info as the dealerships use but in hardcopy form. You can sometimes find them used from the search link in this video's description.
I know this an old video. But out of curiosity why were you replacing it to begin with? We are/have been having an issue when pressing on the throttle (to the floor if getting up to speed on a busy highway) where it surges forward? Still was driving and everything but then got a code turbo underboost and have changed so much on this car even spent 945 dollars at a chevy dealership only to still have it continue to do it... So i hope this helps or is the problem. About ready to set it on fire and call it a day😭
So the thumbnail of this video answers your question, exhaust manifold leak/failure. On this model GM engine, the exhaust manifold is an integral part of the turbocharger and not serviceable separately so the whole enchilada had to come off to address the manifold defect. But there are dozens of failure paths that can lead to the turbocharger assembly needing to be replaced, and it's not unique to GM. Any vehicle with a 4 cylinder engine and a turbocharger is going to have a more complicated maintenance, diagnosis, and repair experience than a non-turbo one.
P.S. Yours was a cruze I'm guessing? We have a sonic and there definitely is not as much room with any if that in there as what it seems with your video... Few bad words some bute force almost got it done.
There's a search link in the description, they sometimes show up used. You can also find this sort of information by subscribing to an online service information feed.
The cheapest source would be that link I have in the description. But if you look in your owners manual, you'll find that GM partners with Helm to print their service manuals. You can order those from www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=helm&class%5F2=CHV
I know this video is older but my daughter has a 2012 cruze and i was hoping you could tell me what service manual you are using? maybe a link to it. Thanks
That's the official GM service manual, like the dealership would use, just printed hardcopy. There's a link in the description, where they sometimes pop up used.
Are you referring to those small plastic safety clips that prevent the connector from being accidentally disconnected? Or the actual retaining tab molded into the connector housing? I'm not aware of the former being separately serviced by GM, so an LKQ salvage yard is probably the only bet for those. But for the actual connector your local GM dealer can look that up in an ACDelco catalog for a replacement pigtail that you can solder onto the existing wiring harness.
I Also Regret Seriously for buying this car. For the last 4yrs Repairs Repairs. Right now is also in a Workshop doing a Turbo Charger Very very very Disturbing car to have Chevrolet Cruze
I’m currently attempting this on my 2015 trax and I’ve hit a snag with the lower air hose removal. I’ve loosened the clamp but my hose instead of being completely rubber, is a metal hose with a rubber sleeve that the clamp is over. The rubber is STUCK to the turbo where the clamp tightens and I’m having major trouble getting it wiggle free where my hose is metal and not as easily bending or gripable. Any suggestions? Could I just proceed and remove it later after I get everything else loosened and can wiggle the turbo some?
I haven't seen the Trax flavor of this air ducting, but is it metal or rubber at the non-turbo end? Because you might be better off disconnecting it from there, and deal with the stubborn side after you pull the turbo out.
I can’t see from the top view where it leads to or how it’s connected. I’m guessing I’m either going to have to go get some Jack stands to where I can safely look from the bottom. Or an alternative might be to just cut the rubber hose section and replace it when I replace the turbo.
@@dylanhume2503 I know this is old news now, but incase anyone sees this, a neat trick to getting rubber hoses to come loose from metal inlets/nipples is to pour rubbing alcohol on the rubber hose. The stronger 90% stuff works best. Mine was stuck too but I did that and just gave it a couple wiggles/twists and it came right off easy peasy. Same trick works for seating something rubber onto something metal that is very tight, like say for example rubber bicycle handles on metal handle tubes 😎
