I’m about to embark on this repair. This is the most in depth walk through of the fix on the internet. I’m so impressed and thankful. I was completely prepared to pay the $4k to have it done for me. But after watching this, I’m not so intimidated and actually feel prepared. Thank you thank you thank you, for this video!
You are very welcome. I wish you good luck with your repair. I will admit that this was a challenging repair (and tested my patience) but was necessary to be completed as exhaust was entering the cab. I do recommend the BD Diesel parts (listed in the video description). I felt they were of good quality. However, they were a bit pricy, but you get what you pay for.
You have done an outstanding job identifying the parts with the green highlights, white circles, and your explanations on what the pipes do. Thank you so much for taking the time to put it all together and for the conciseness. I also have a 2012 F150 3.5L and everything is exactly the same as your truck. I tow a 8,000 lb rv trailer a lot and unfortunately I am doing my exhaust manifolds again due to breaking the back stud on each manifold. (It's just a guess, but I believe towing the trailer up steep grades on two lane backroads on hot summer days did the damage. You are going slow and not getting a lot of airflow that you would on say a steady incline on the interstate.) So, this time around I am replacing the turbo oil filters that go into the engine block (there are a few videos say this is important to do, and there is a Ford document that talks about this (SSM 47948) but I haven't found a video showing how to do it, haha. The service manual shows how to do it, but that is with the alternator off or no a/c compressor in the way and a stripped down engine. The ford service manual does show a real world example of how to do it. If anyone is doing to a 2012 F150, you'll need a 12 mm hex bit to get the old turbo oil filter out. The new one uses a regular wrench to install it. Also, regarding the turbo lug mount, Ford did away with the mount on replacement turbos in mid-2013. So if your original turbo went bad and you get a replacement, the new turbo may or may not have to mounting lug. In any case, you shouldn't use the turbo mounting lug and bolt and remove the turbo mounting hardware that attaches to the engine. This was a service note from BorgWarner to technicians installing new turbos. I'm speculating here but, maybe the turbo being mounted to the engine made things too rigid and contributed to the rear stud failure.
I have also seen several videos recommending this. I think it is a good idea to do if you have the time and parts. Getting to the back of the engine would be the most difficult part. I was not concerned with the condition of my lines and there was no indication of a leak, so I choose to not replace them.
