$70 at toyota or $30 to do it yourself. Thanks so much for the later model FJ cruiser oil change video. The older models looked a lot easier. I went out to my truck and didn't see the oil filter on top. Then I searched and found your video.
I don’t even mess with the plastic drain tool on the bottom of the filter. I just unscrew real slow and let the oil seep out. Then I remove the old filter and wipe down the entire oil filter housing. The original skid plate isn’t so bad , I unscrew the two rear then the two front and gently let the skid plate swing down then pull it off. I agree that the 1g FRE V6 early generation prior to 2010 was so much easier to change soil since the filter was located on top of the engine. But I have a 2010 and really like the increase horsepower and torque of the newer V6.
Just an FYI, you don't need to remove the little metal clip from the filter housing at all. In fact, Toyota specifically recommends against removing it in their service manual. I just unscrew the filter and reinstall it without touching the clip, its fine.
Same STUPID set up of the oil filter as the LS460.....what the Hell were they thinking.....made a simple pleasurable satisfying job of changing your oil....into a complete Ball Ache !!!
Whoever designed that skid plate with Alan heads needs to be shot... Edit: after watching the oil filter design looks like a few engineers should be hung up by their toenails. Thanks for the vid and confirming the dealer actually doesn’t charge too much for this job 👍
I just did mine the Stp extended filter comes with a plastic piece that screws into the oil cap and I added a little hose to it so no mess. Great video 👍
Good video, correct information. In Australia we use 5w/30 grade oil in the 1gr-fe engine, strange to see 0w/20 recommended over there. I personally use Penrite HPR5 5W/40.
TZOID08 the instrument panel lights up at around 5k. I abuse this little engine so 5ish sounds good to me. Eventually I'm putting a diesel engine in it. Wait for those videos!
I skip the drain piece for the filter. I just slowly remove the assembly and let the excess seep out and the rest I just dump out the excess oil with the filter element onto my drain pan. I also replaced the filter housing with an all aluminum version. Same one used on the Lexus and Tacoma and 4runner..
Thanks for that info. I know someone here posted a part that makes it way easier and cleaner to drain the oil from the filter. But i will also look into the Aluminum version.
I'm in South Florida. It's crazy hot here almost year 'round. I wonder if I should go a bit thicker than the 0-20W. Thoughts? I have a 2010. I sit in beach traffic a lot, I'm a musician. :/
I'm in south Texas, so I'm no stranger to 110-120°F I haven't had any issues with this fully synthetic 0-20w Maybe if I was up in mileage like over 250k I might consider moving to a thicker grade
I got a 2011 with 141,000 miles on it I bought it with a 116, it’s got a tapping noise is that normal r not? Toyotas got a rattling noise like my Tacoma this FJ has a tapping first I ever owned. I don’t know if it supposed to.
Mine has a clicking/ tapping sound. It's always had it. I believe this is "normal" . It's had a rattling, but that was because the dealership left the skid plate covers loose/ without bolts. That was the first and last time I took it to someone else to work on it.
@@XV_TV Thanks. that makes me feel a little better.I’ve only had it about a yr now. It’s never been off road it’s immaculate, A few months back a idiot run a stop sign and mashed my bumper and headlights. The body shop said this truck don’t have no rust anywhere, that was great news. it don’t burn oil r smoke got plenty of power. Just that damn tapping noise. My brother had a old Jeep type yrs ago and I always liked them so I bought this one a lot more luxury compared to those for sure they were like driving a tractor.. I baby it plan to keep it for a good while.
I'm gonna call it the "oil purge cap" since it's sole purpose is to drain the oil in the filter. Mine eventually didn't come off so I plan on replacing it with a cap that has a lever built in to the cap so you can just drain it without getting all messy
LoL glad it helps. Because in the end you know it was done RIGHT and Way CHEAPER lol. Anyways, I tighten the bottom screw to 25Nm (metal screw on filter housing) while housing is getting screwed on. Once it clicks, I tighten the housing just enough to line up the tabs of the filter housing to the base where the clip clips onto. As far as the skid plates, I just tighten them so that they don't rattle off (about 3/4 turn after hand tighten) At the dealership, they didn't even bother to put both back! And the 1 that they did was so loose, it was rattling. Oh and I was forced to pay over $200 for that!! Never again!
