2014 2015 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe Front brakes 

The aluminum wheels actually have a low torque setting, they are torqued to 80ft/lbs. The philips screws to hold the rotors on are just snugged up. The big bolts (17mm) on the rear of the caliper bracket that hold it to the steering knuckle are 60-70 ft/lbs. The small bolts (14mm) at the top holding the brake caliper to the caliper bracket are 16-23 ft/lbs These are for dry clean bolts, if you lubricate bolts then its less, and rusty bolts would require more torque to get the same clamping power. If you noticed I did not use a torque wrench as I have done so many brake jobs over the years that I know the feel. I am a licenced mechanic. Hope I helped you out bud and thanks for watching!!!

GarageKing thank you! Caliber torque to 80ft/lbs also?

Really nice brake job. Thorough.

@@JSes8477 Brake Caliper bracket to steering knuckle is 60-70 ft/lbs, those are the big 17mm bolts (3:03 time stamp). The small Brake Caliper to Caliper bracket bolt (14mm)are 16-23 ft/lbs (1:10 time stamp). Good luck with the job!!! Anything else just let me know :)

GarageKing thanks. Just finished mine. Worked out great!

Oh Man that is awesome!!!!! So glad I could help and these are the comments that keep me going!!! Very happy you were able to do the job (its empowering!!) Thanks again and cheers :)

Thanks so much for the comment, I do appreciate it, and it is these types of comments that keep me going !!!! Glad you were able to spend some quality time with your dad and save a few bucks in the process !!!

Thanks for the comment and good luck with the job

Thank you for the great comment, and Happy Holidays to you :)

Thank you for the great comment !!!

Glad it was helpful! and thanks for the comment!!!! Much appreciated :)

Thank you for the great comment, much appreciated

Thanks for the great comment, I agree with painting them whenever you can. The next few brake jobs I actually do paint the calipers. Its work, but pretty satisfying as the paint keeps them looking clean. I agree with you 100% !!! You know I never thought about using silicon spray on the piston boot, good tip !!!!

Thanks so much for the great comment, appreciate it :)

Managed to replace rotors and pads without any issues. Thanks again

@@banlex73 Thank you and glad you got it all done, and no doubt saved a few bucks !!!! Enjoy your weekend :)

You may absolutely suggest that, and I used a C-Clamp for years before I got that caliper tool. Sometimes I still use the C-Clamp with a pad trick as that tool is too big for smaller calipers. To take it one step further sometimes I use to open the bleeder on the caliper and then push the piston back in (very easy with the bleeder open) and then wait for a second until fluid starts coming out, and then close the bleeder. This way the calipers got a bit of a flush and I would just top off the master cylinder at the end. I'll have to do that on a future vid :) Great comment, and glad you enjoyed the video. It takes hours to film and edit car repair videos so I'm appreciative when I get a great comment. Thanks and happy holidays to you :)

Thanks for the comment, I do appreciate it !!

Many times I have done what you mention, and there is a plus to doing so if the fluid is dirty. The fluid in the caliper is more dirty than the fluid in the line or the master cylinder. I crack the bleeder right open and push the piston back, hang the caliper, give it a tap to get out the air bubbles and let it gravity bleed. Then close back up and top off master cylinder (it will be low after this) I didn't include this in the video as there is a lot that can go wrong. 1. You introduce air in the system if not done correctly 2. you forget to fill the master cylinder and after a few months of wear your brake light comes on and you can get air in the master (really hard to get out) and 3. the bleeder requires very little torque to tighten back up and I have done brake jobs with the bleeders broken off..... Those are the three that come to mind right away. So there is a benefit, but it has to be done right.

Thanks soo much !!! Its a QuickJack, and they usually go on sale at Costco. I love it!!! I did a video on it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0JsUoW2aXOA.html Check it out. Hope you are having a great weekend!!!

Hey thanks for the great comment, and its one I have thought of myself. I believe the reason is so you don't get as much of a "click" when you brake and the pin with the rubber keeps the caliper steady as its a tighter fit, so it prevents the the caliper from wiggling. If you had two pins with rubber it would be overkill as the caliper still needs to slide. When I do a job I'm careful to put them back in the same way they came out. But I guess to answer your question, it to reduce noise and help keep the caliper aligned during braking :)

Yup, very true, in this case the pedal was bouncing a bit so that's why they were changed. Many times I only change the pads. You can use the C-clamp, but you need a big one and sometimes the brake line in the rear gets in the way. I use to use one all the time, but I find the tool way faster. Thanks for the comment :)

You don't have to, if someone topped up the fluid then when you push the caliper pistons back, then the fluid will just come out of the master cylinder and just wipe it up. If the fluid was never topped off, then once you push the caliper pistons back the fluid level will return to full level. 2017 is still pretty new so I would say your fluid should still be pretty clean. The one thing that does really help is the caliper piston tool: Amazon.ca amzn.to/3nadUOH​ Amazon.com amzn.to/3ocTOV8 Thanks for the comment and if you need anything else just let me know.

Ok thanks

@@josephcastiglia6741 Anytime brother !!!

No, no bleeding is necessary and it will be pretty much the same. If you have trouble along the way let me know and I will help you out. I have helped out a bunch of my supporters over the years so keep me posted !!!!

@@GarageKing Excellent! Thanks for the reply. I'll let you know how it goes!

Hey there and thanks for the reach out. No damage to the master cylinder, and its actually quite common for that to happen. Most likely during a service someone topped up your brake fluid (which you don't need to do) and when you pushed the piston back, that "top up" fluid came out the top. Just make sure your master cylinder cap is on tight and has not come loose. The hissing noise is usually quite faint and its normal. I think the reason you are hearing that is you are hypersensitive now as you just did your brakes so you are paying attention to anything. As you have new pads now, check the master cylinder lid to make sure its tight, and now it should be full, then wipe off any spills or spray some brake clean around the area (keep off paint) and you should be good to go.

Thank you that’s a relief.

@@luke5371 Yup you bet

Sure I can. It might take a few weeks to get out, but I can put in the que to do. Thank you for the suggestion.

For sure, I usually do and if I didn’t in the video that would be my bad :( The only thing is use anti-seize, never grease. That’s what I was taught in mechanic school. The reason is with the high heat of brakes the grease can break down and travel to parts it should not be near. Anti-seize does not do that so it’s safer. You should put a dab on each side of the hardware. The side that touches the caliper bracket and the side that the end of the brake pad housing touches. For the pins don’t use anti-size, it dries up. Use caliper pin lube for that. If you need anything else just let me know. Thanks :)

@@GarageKing thanks man i really appreciate it . You seem very experienced.

Anytime brother, I’m a red seal licensed mechanic with quite a few years in the trade. I like doing these vids to help people learn as it’s pretty empowering to fix your own car !! Glad I could help out :)

You bet, and yes, its very similar. If you have any questions as you go along, just let me know :)

@@GarageKing Than you, I appreciated

Anytime!!

Hey there, and thanks for the comment, yes those caliper mounting bolts are a snug fit in there. I used a 3/8' long ratchet with the socket. See the 3:00 min mark. Thanks brother !!!

Also if you go to the 18:00 min mark I lay out all the tools I used so you can see in detail if that helps.

@@GarageKing Thanks for the quick replies!! And thanks I missed the part at 18:00 and went back it was helpful. You dont happen to remember what brand the ratchet is tho?

@@wrii2034 Hey There, the ratchet is not cheap!! Its a Snap On, but I really like it. They are actually on sale this month, here is the Canadian flyer is you want to take a look. I post the flyer every month. If you are in the US they would probably just cost 30%more (difference in Money) You can see they are not cheap LOL :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d0w13XkWhmc.html

Hi Phil, I would not. Some pads you buy come with a little package of lube, it is designed for rubber and steel. That caliper lube is sold at any parts store, you don't need the same brand as I use, just any good quality caliper lube will do. Anti-Seize is designed for steel on steel. I have done brake jobs on cars where anti-seize was used and what I found is its all dried up and doesn't do a very good job. If you are in a bind, its better that nothing, as I would not put it back together dry. If you really have nothing, and you are in a bind I would say use it, then when you can get some caliper lube pull the wheel off and remove the pin. Spray with brake clean to clean it out and put the proper lube in. You would not have to take the brakes off to do this. You could do this quite easily. Hopefully I helped you out :)

use 3m silicone paste never grease

Thanks for your comment and at first glance everything seems fine. After you do the brakes on any car you brake pedal WILL go down to the floor. The pedal requires a few slow pumps of the brake pedal. The reason for this is there is a gap between the rotor and the pads after a brake job (because you had to push the brake caliper piston back in) and now you have to seat the pads so when you pump the pedal a few times it will push the new pads up against the rotor. Once the pads hit the rotor the pedal will get hard and be normal again. Hope this helps

Hey no need to say sorry, its a good question, you can use an aerosol spray like this amzn.to/3MGb836 or a paste like this amzn.to/3QZnk1K Its your choice, I have used both and to be honest its a personal preference. With the aerosol spray you spray the whole REAR/STEEL PART of the pad and try not to get it on your hands when you are assembling the pads in the caliper. With the past you can put where you want and its easier not to touch. They both work good. You can pick up at your local parts store.

Hey there, they went back on the new rotor at the 14:20min mark :) Thanks for the comment and if you have any other questions just let me know :)

Thanks for reaching out. Not at all, no wheel alignment is needed after you do this job :)

Hey There, I used this amzn.to/3QuoYHT and it works really well. It can only be used on the rear of pads (that's it) and its quite sticky so you have to be careful assembling your brakes. The best lube you can buy (which is actually not that expensive is this) amzn.to/3UGKlYR Its great for the slid pins.

1. Raise all wheels and see if you can spin with hand 2. If NO, then on the wheel you can't spin open the bleeder - this will tell you if your problem could be hydraulic. 3. If wheel spins your problem is hydraulic. 4. If wheel does not spin problem is mechanical - take apart brakes to see what is stuck. Check the obvious to make sure your park brake is not engaged.

Hey There, the FULL steel pin goes on the TOP and the pin with the rubber bushing goes on the BOTTOM when you are looking at the bracket mounted.

Thanks so much. Had put them in the wrong way. Just finishing off front and rear brakes. You’ve saved me $1700 - parts. Thank you!

@@luke5371 Glad I could be of service good Sir !!!

Thanks for the great comment !!! Its a QuickJack BL-5000SLX. I really wanted the 7000 model (same size but can handle 7000lbs vs 5000lbs) I'll be releasing a vid on it as a few people have commented on it. It lifts pretty much everything and I work on a wide variety of cars. Happy Sunday to you :)

Hey There, I used Raybestos Element 3 pads, here is a link amzn.to/3RN8r0d but you can see they are expensive. You can probably get them local for cheaper at a parts store. For the rotors I used Raybestos as well. Thanks for the comment.

Owww; that is a good question and to be honest I’m not sure. I know the job is pretty much the same, but I’m not sure if the one and two piston calipers use the same rotor. Here in Canada it’s holiday today (Canada Day) so I’m not even able to call the parts store to check. Sorry.

They were warped causing a pedal pulsation. I probably should have mentioned that in the video. Also on inside pad surface there was some rust. You comment gives me a good idea, I should highlight more to check the inner surface. Many times the outside surface looks good (what you see on the outside) but the inner side is rusted. Warping you can't see and most of the times its in the front rotors (I did have one Subaru where it was in the rear)

Its the Quickjack 5000SLX, I also bought the frame extenders (Not used often, but when you need them). The SLX is not made anymore, now they have the TL which is the same but it goes 3" higher.

Did I ?? Crap sorry about that, 12 and 14 are very common sizes, my bad. The one good thing is I know you were paying attention !!!!!

Hey brother, if you car was manufactured Nov 2016 it should most likely be a 2017 model year. I know when I was calling there are like 3 types. If you sport/non-sport, and there may have been something with a middle seat??? It was pretty crazy. The place I called is a local place in Canada, they are not in the US but use to rebuild them locally. Maybe they started doing that again? Is there a place where you can take them in to be rebuilt? You will just have to block off the brake line so your fluid doesn’t all leak out. That may be your best best. Your title and owners manual should say 2017. Plus I think you can check your model year by the 10th digit in the vin(you may want to Google that )

@@GarageKing all I need is the stupid brake caliper bracket and bolts. I stripped them. There's not a place on earth that has front driver single piston caliper. Every auto store is stupified by it I had two dealers order it comes in as dual piston caliper. I gotta just search and search 6 bone yards it's incredibly insane

last 8 of vin HH030013 awd non turbo awd 2.4 sport

That’s what goes most of the time. When you order the rebuilt one you get the whole unit. The piston part is usually ok. It’s the bracket as I know how those pins can seize up!!! I’m wondering if you can take the whole thing in to get rebuilt and just tell them you need the bracket. There are probably only a certain number of pin sizes. I wonder if you call a machine shop and ask them. They may be able to refer you to a rebuilder. Maybe one of those classic type rebuilding places that rebuild steering racks etc. I am truly surprised how much trouble you are going through just to get brake calipers. I feel for you !!!!

Yup H means 2017, so it’s a 2017

Hey There, I can't remember exactly but they were either Bosch or Raybestos. Not the cheapest brand but I have never had a problem. amzn.to/3wMzAe7

They are in the video, brake caliper bracket to steering knuckle big 17mm bolts at 3:03min time stamp, small brake caliper to caliper bracket bolt 14mm at 1:10 time stamp, and I also put them in the video description if you don't want to search through the video. Also Aluminum Wheels 80ft/lbs. Thanks

Hey Johnny, I appreciate your comment, and you are right, if you are not going to replace the rotors then there is no need for a lot of the work. I like to film brake jobs where I change the rotors, as that's usually one of the first questions I get (what if I'm changing the rotors). The one thing where I have to respectfully disagree, unless maybe you forgot to write it? When you are changing the pads, if it's rusty, it is really hard to clean the area where the pads slide with the bracket on the vehicle. I find it much easier to take off the bracket. Secondly, those pins need to come out and be lubricated. By just flipping the caliper up, change the pads and flip it back down you have not greased the pins. It's very important for those pins to slide or you will have uneven wear, and premature brake failure. So many times I have done brakes where those pins are seized up, and it's due to people not cleaning the pins. I'm not trying to get another view from you, but take a look at this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G0tWIghAMJw.html Go to the 6min mark, I would not have to do that if the pins were properly lubricated. It was from a fellow that never greased the pins. You don't want this happening to your vehicle or it costs you more money in the long term as the pins get sized, and you brake them taking them out and then need to buy a new caliper. Flipping it up may work once or twice but it's going to bit you in the *** when those pins seize up, and they will. I loved your comment as you are passionate, as I can tell the effort you put into writing a comment. There are a lot of shops that rip people off, and tell them they need things when they don't. Kuddos for you tackling the job yourself, you have done more than most !!!!

Hey There, you can use WD40 to get the pins loose and take them apart, BUT DON'T USE it as a lube.

Hey there and thanks for the comment. It depends which one you use. Most sprays that go on the rear of the pad is the same as the one in the tube.

Thank you I bought the crc disc break quiet aerosol. Awesome video super helpful!!

@@MoeJski Thank you !!

Hey Brother, I can find them on Amazon up to 2016 - amzn.to/3f2soOy but I can't find 2017? I wondering if its just not updated on Amazon as a 2017 is the same generation as a 2016? I did phone the local parts store and they said a listing is available for a 2017. I'm sure Hyundia sells them but its going to cost more (you most likely need your ser# when you contact your local dealer)

@@GarageKing it's because of a lawsuit they aren't selling patents to after market corps I'm calling dealership soon

@@minnesotanice369 Oh wow, I did not know that. Thanks for sharing that with me. When I did call my local parts place they said they could get me a caliper for a 2017. I know they use to rebuild them in house, so if the 2016 and 2017 are identical then they are probably just rebuilding the 2016's. What you say makes sense. I wonder if you could get a rebuild kit for the one you have (if the 2016 is the same it would use the same piston, sealing ring, and pins with the rubber boots) I have done that before on hard to find calipers? I wonder if its the pins in the bracket or the piston that have gone bad?

@@GarageKing here's the part from dealer 58110-42z700 ain't cheap

@@minnesotanice369 Holy Cow !!!!! I just looked at the part cost and that is crazy!!!! I'm wondering if you can take your caliper to a rebuilder if you can't get rebuild parts or don't want to do it yourself. Thats what I would do. That is Porsche pricing!!!!!

If I'm remember from comments there are two different calipers for this vehicle, and I'm not sure if the disk size is the same for both, so you would probably be best off to measure your rotor to make sure you get the right parts :)

Hey brother thanks for the comment, sorry about that fast forwarding. Sometimes I get comments that I'm tool technical and "speed it up" and other times I get comments where people wanted to see a procedure in more detail. I really do try my best to try to find a balance and that's why I appreciate your comment. All feedback is good so thanks for that. As for the tool, I used a caliper spreader, they are available on Amazon Amazon.ca amzn.to/3f3mueb Amazon.com amzn.to/3jPfKnR Its important to use the right tool, some old timers will tell you just to use a big pair of pliers, but by doing that you can cause the piston bind, and later leak. Also I find that C- clamps are not the greatest thing as they take a lot of maneuvering around the brake hose to get them to work. So the tool I use provides equally distributed pressure and works like a charm. It pretty much works on all vehicles as well. I have used it on Mercedes, this Hyundia and a bunch of other vehicles. So if you get one, save it because you should be able to use it on your next vehicle. If you need anything else just let me know. Thanks!!!!

@@GarageKing Thanks for the response!

@@mcren6781 Anytime, good luck with your brake job!!!

Hey brother, thanks for commenting buddy. If you don't have anti-squeal spray, you can buy the anti-squeal that you can brush on, I think I have used that in a few of my other videos. As for using any type of grease, I have never done it, and I have done over 1000 brake jobs easily as I'm a licensed tech. My worry with using grease is I would be scared if you used too much, it would wick to the side of the pads and possibly contaminate the pad material. My personal opinion is if you don't have anti-squeal you are probably better off putting them in dry, BUT if you are careful, I would put it directly on the brake caliper piston, and the inboard side of the caliper were the other brake pad would seat. This way you will minimize the amount you use. Then after the brake capiler is in place I would wipe off any excess that I could see. I think if you did it this way you would be ok. Hopefully I have helped you out and if you have any other questions just let me know :)

@@GarageKing Thanks for the video. Just got a 2017 Santa Fe XL. Wheels were seized on. I don't think the brakes had ever been replaced. Fun stuff!

@@almason253 For sure, I always put anti-seize is around the front hub (wheel bearing) part that goes into the wheel, this way you should be able to pull your wheel off easier next time :) That part usually corrodes and sticks to the centre hole in the rim.

Hey there, and thanks for the comment. If you go to the 16:20min mark I show pushing the piston back in. It did it fast on this video. I'm always trying to trim down video length and its hard to know where to trim sometime. I used a caliper piston tool amzn.to/3ocTOV8 and I use that all the time. Some people say to use a C-Clamp. others big pliers, and you can. But I find using the right tool makes it way easier, and also ensures that you are pushing the piston in straight so there is no binding. Sorry about going a little fast on the caliper piston, but hopefully my quick reply helps you out :) Thanks and hope you are enjoying your weekend :)

I am actually a licensed mechanic and I can tell you most of the time the rotors are actually replaced. If your brake pedal is not pulsating, and the rotor surface (make sure to check in the inside) is not rusted then you can usually just get away with pads. If you have a rusted/pitted surface, or a pulsating brake pedal when you brake (warped rotors) then its best to replace them. Back in the old days when the rotors had the bearings in them, we would turn them all the time. With these new vehicles they are made cheaper and just pull off. Plus with the high cost of labour it is most cost effective to replace them if they are suspect. Plus with new rotors you know you won't have any issues. Kinda funny but brake lathes are not used very much anymore. When I was still working at a shop you had to take your place in line to use it!!!!! You vehicle has 74,000miles, if its on the factory rotors I would replace them. Sorry for the long response........ That price is not bad if they are using Hyundai Parts. Take care and if you need advise on anything else don't hesitate to ask :)

@@GarageKing Thanks. I appreciate your input on this. There isn't any pulsating from braking so I knew the rotors weren't warped. Yes, original factory rotors so I guess I'll go ahead and let the dealer do the work. I guess I'm old school in thinking that rotors can still be turned. It's been years since I've done my own brakes and although you fully showed how do replace pads and rotors, it might be in my best interest to have the dealer do the work. I've reached that age to know that sometimes it's best to let the experts do the job right the first time. Ya never know what you'll run into once the average Joe starts taking things apart. Thanks again for your input.

@@billm9716 They are quite east to do, actually a lot easier than years ago due to the design. In the 90's when I started we turned the rotors all the time, but they were expensive back then, and as previously mentioned, had the bearings and races in the rotors. On my channel if you go to the Vanagon section I do front brakes and I think those are the type of brakes you are talking about, American, VW, etc. It was all pretty much the same back then. The other thing was back in the day most parts were made in the good old USA so they cost more due to labour. I remember rotors being around $135 each back then, and that was in 1990"s dollars!!!!!! Later on there was a shift to China, and that is where most of them are made today, hence the price drop, and sometimes quality......... They are not very hard to do, and if you try to do them you can contact me and I'll help you though any problems. I have subscribers that contact me all the time for help and I don't mine doing so :) Good luck with whatever you decide :)

Oh boy !!!

Not sure if I said that in this video at the end, but you are correct pump your brakes so the clearance between the rotor and the pad gets taken up. Normally I say to make sure that you have a pedal. Not sure if I did on this one. Great comment and very true !!! Thanks and happy Friday to you :)

@@GarageKing I was looking for a video for my son to get an idea of what he was getting into. Great video, well done. I didn't hear the pump brakes but could have missed it.

@@FreightandCargo Thanks for the great comment. I think that's great your son is attempting to do this. I do a lot with my son in the garage. He does not want to be a mechanic, but I want him to know the basics. Hope you are enjoying your Saturday :)

How much would you charge for a job like this on that model type car ?