To anyone doing this - you don't need to take the air chamber off completely. On mine someone replaced the screw for the hose clamp on the right side, so I just removed the 10mm bolt, two cable mounts, and the left hose clamp. Just lift it slightly and you'll have plenty of room.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for the vid! I would have removed it, but I couldn't get my hand in there to loosen the screw that well, and when I finally did I found they were using some non-standard screw in the clamp itself. Someone had been in there and caused some issues. Now driving to see if I can get the code to come back or if it fixed it.
If this part was defective, would you expect to receive a P2645 error? I have not dug in to ohm test, but that seems pretty straight forward as a first step.
@@robbalyeat Definitely a P2645 can be from a faulty rocker arm control solenoid. I would expect you'll see it in the ohms. Make sure to check the ohms both cold and warmed up 👍
Why not just back probe the harness connection then you can test solenoids without having the open circuit to stop you per oem way? But good informative video none the less. The tube topside of motor the from pcvs , the curve collects moisture and causes rear main seals to fail. I know the engineers that created the 2.5 and 2.4. They actually advise making it straight. And to change the rubber intake manifold gasket to a neoprene to stop the bolts from loosening. 👍
Hey Steve thanks for the comment. Yeah later I thought about back probing with the connector plugged in. And also I'm sure this would have some kind of bias voltage on the wires as well that I could have checked. Thanks for watching 👍
Yes, it's possible to get both codes at the same time. You can get the part at your local parts store or I like using rockauto.com for some parts if I don't need them right away.
They are called "test leads" or "terminal leads". I have a link in the description to a kit you can buy from Amazon. I also have a short video that shows how you can make your own ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t9PVPf-Pkjw.html. If you are a serious mechanic the master kit I have is from AESWave.com. Hope that helps 👍
It's not necessary but if you do disconnect the battery it will clear the codes for you. I didn't disconnect the battery and I used the scan tool to clear the codes when finished. So it's up to you
It shouldn't. Usually a burning smell is from something touching the exhaust. You can check to see if you have oil leaks or maybe ran over something plastic that is stuck to the exhaust. Just some ideas 👍
@@brettlawrence9222 there are 3 possible causes. 1. Control valve 2. Wiring 3. Engine computer The most common cause is the control valve. It's up to you if you want to diagnose it with a multimeter like in this video to be sure or just replace it.
