I was about to spend $500 at the dealership until I saw this video. You will need to pick up all 3 parts at the local Dodge/Mopar parts dealer, but I paid only $108 after tax and I was able to do the job myself in literally a half hour. The person in the video did an even better job guiding through the steps. Thank you!
This is a great video and was extremely helpful for me when I had to do this on my 2018 Durango RT with the 5.7. My issue was the hose that plugs into the purge valve. When I took that hose out the bottom part of the hose was cracked and split and the connector was loose in the hose. That caused my P0456 code. I wanted to give a tip on removing the part of the hose with the red clip and the white clip. The red clip comes out as shown and easily. The white clip is designed to be pushed inward and it releases the connector so you can pull the hose out. It takes some pressure to push the white clip in but once you do the hose will pull out. I had to use a needle nose pliers to push the white clip in. If you look at the white clip and push it in you can see it moving away from the hose. Hope that helps someone that is dealing with the white clip trying to pull it out instead of pushing it in.
I just replaced these three parts on my 2017 RT becuase of this video. I had P0456 and P0440 codes. The old parts visually looked just fine. I'm skeptical this is the fix, but will report back. I figured for $80 in parts and 30 min in labor it was worth the shot. I had a little trouble with the white clip. I didn't remove it as shown in the video. I was able to release the sides using flat head screw drivers on each side and then put the line up and out. Here are the PN: 4627973AC Purge Control Valve 68223440AA Fuel Vapor Re-Circulation Plug 68250914AB Purge Hose
You can check the purge control before replacing by pulling it and then blowing against the flow to see if there is a leak. I get this error and the three main failures are these two parts and the ESIM which is in the driver side wheel well. When I get the code I change the ESIM first (a gasket there fails often and it's only bout 30 bucks) then the purge control and recirculator and THEN the purge hose. All are easy cheap fixes and doing them all is bout the cost of a diagnostic smoke test.
I swapped out the Mopar Detector Evaporative (4861959AA) in the drivers side rear wheel well and that fixed it for me. Very easy to do, it clips into place. Physically the old unit looked fine, but this fixed it for me.
I really appreciate you for this video. This helped me get that engine light off, save money on parts and what I like being able to do it in my garage. Appreciated a ton! 😎
First off everyone claiming no check engine before u get your hopes up definitely a great video and 90% a fix but drive your vehicle at least 150 miles for computer to register other than that great video good luck all
Socal, sometimes the sensors will not detect the fix, because it can be a small leak. You can either clear the check engine with a scanner or simply disconnect the negative from your batt under the passenger seat and wait 1min and reconnect. If your new valve did not fix the issue, the light will come back on within 80miles. If no light after that u should be good because that's about he time your computer needs to reset itself and detects any new faults.
I haven’t taken the plastic cover off, but the noise is coming from the top of the engine on the driver’s side… similar to the section you were working on in the video. Mine is a V6, but I assume it’s the same. Thanks for the info, video was great!
Thank you for the demo. I broke the 2 clips orange and white . Where can i purchase them please? I installed the new hose without the clips but the check engine light is still on.
I have these codes po456 and my 2016 Durango won’t start unless it gets jumped off. My battery voltage goes up and down between 11-14 and my lights flicker while driving. Is this the alternator or p456 or both ?
Purge hose was replaced last year and ever since, my Jeep Grand Cherokee sounds so different from the inside...best way I can describe it is like a constant high rev type sound. Seems to run fine but so loud now ... could the loudness be due to the new hose??
Any updates from anybody that has found the problem and fixed this stupid issue? Wife 2016 durango rt has same code being thrown. Would love some more updates on this issue! Tired of light coming on every few days and me having to pull out code reader and clearing the stupid ass code! Thanks for any input and updates!
The thing is you got to take off that cover and it's a little valve on the back that little EGR style valve for that I've had to go bad twice it's only like 25 30 bucks it's a little plastic thing
I went to AutoZone and got one of the codes in your title p0456 Great video But my question to you is I have a 2018 Dodge Durango GT V6 Will this work for that make and model?
What is “the bottom one”? I’ve replaced the whole purge valve with lines, dealer changed the plugs and did the fuel system clean. Day later got the p0456 code, auto zone said it’s a small part that costs $30….the ESIM
The ESIM is not expensive It's the labor and time involved to replace. It's on the back passenger wheel-well, kinda hidden. But yes, if you already changed everything I would definitely change it out.
What about p0441 n it’s crazy because it has hard time starting I gotta wait like 10 minutes tell it starts back up n the other code is p0456 n the car makes a noise like if it’s inside the Intake manifold like a squeaky noise…
Sorry about that. I meant remove your negative side of your battery before you start any work. For the RT it's under the passenger side seat under a plastic cover.
No it's the purge valve that you're touching right there that's white and black that your small evap leak when the Dodge Durango has that of your year that's what it is
You know what BL3ND, mine came back on about 3 days ago after I put gas. Going to clean the gas cap area, tricky part is to push open the non cap valve and clean inside. Heard it may be dust buildup and may cause lid to stay slightly open. Will post when I do it, if you do it first let me know if it worked.
@@RedThunder-di8ns thank you for replying I did that as well I spray cleaned it there’s nothing left I haven’t done except for the canister the big black tank looking thing under the rear passenger side fender flare
@@steveshelpman4239 i actually changed that the first thing the only thing that’s left is the canister. Plus I just got another code which says “flash to pass” which I don’t understand a thing from it.
Any update on a fix? I also heard the capless filler neck can leak under the head where it connects to the side of the body and at the fuel tank. Fuel pump gaskets were mentioned as an issue also.
Oh I know exactly where that is you need to take your engine cover off and that little thing looks like a little valve on top it's leaking right there cuz it's probably going to crack in it it's like a valve so it's easy to find
