Thanks for this video. I'm trying to track down a chirping noise i get in 3rd gear around 4500 RPM. My Side A wastegate is showing 1.07V and this video will help in adjusting. Thanks!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. To do a turbocharger adaptation is a known expression. After watching your video I understand how important an proper adjustment must be done when any mechanical changes on the turbocarger system. If adjustment is not done, it will throw errors all the time and you might destroy the turbocharger. In my case after a replacement of turbocharger, the workshop did not complete any adjustment. After running my car diagnotic tool I have found a lot errors telling the turbocharger is out of range. My car has low boost and many drive train error poping up around 2000-3000 rpm. I brought my car back to the workshop, they did not do any adjustment, but charge me 800 kr. I do not have any bi directional car tool nor any vacuum/pressure hand pump to do a proper adjustment. Now my turbocharger has short circuit on the electronic actuator. Do you use any car tool diagnostic running a adjustment on the wastegate actuator? Do you use any tool you can recommend? I have to learn how to adjust the turbocharger my myself. I can not trust on any workshop anymore.
Could I send you a FOREscan data log to look at because I don't see anything wrong. I think I have something else going on to intermittently to throw a wastegate code P25B6. Thanks 🙂
thanks for the video. i will be replacing driver side actuator this weekend. do you know the threads for the nut on actuator shaft? one of mine escaped, so will need to source another.
I don’t recall the size, but it wouldn’t be an uncommon size not found at a good hardware store. I wouldn’t suggest getting crazy with any Loctite, as you may need to adjust it again in the future. Markal makes a nice security paint in a small tube that’s commonly used on parts like this.
On a new install you might want to check them before installation. More importantly, make sure the compressor housing is mounted to the exhaust side properly (shown in video). If you're getting an error code, you can find out which turbo is out of spec and adjust it. Ideally both would be adjusted the same, but I wouldn't expect both to be identical for turns on the nuts.
Directly attached to the compressor housing on the turbo. You can visually see each turbo from the wheel well of the passenger and driver side as well.
I have a 2017 f150 3.5 eco boost. 194,000 miles. I had a code for low boost along with 8 other codes. I replaced the Wastegate actuator and the problem went away for about 400 miles. The code is back. I have adjusted the linkage Millimeter by Millimeter with the same code coming back. Anything else I could check before taking it to a mechanic. Thank you.
Yes, they can be adjust while on the truck. Depending on how far out of spec it is, you may only need a very small adjustment. Only do a little at a time and simple turn the key to “on”, and you’ll get an instant reading.
The wastegate adjustment yes, clocking the turbos would be very tricky. The compressor housing bolts would be hard to get to, if you had very good mechanical skills it might be possible.
I used my brothers Forscan, I can do a video to show where to find the voltages sure. If you have an NGauge you can use that to check as well. You're basically looking for the settings before you start the truck. Are you having problems adjusting yours?
i have a CEL on my 10th Gen Civic P0046 ( Turbocharger boost control solenoid circuit range / performance ) after i tightened the wastegate arm because it loose before that , what can i do friend? thank yoy
Very similar process if I had to guess. There IS a small tolerance range that allows for normal wear and tear, so you'll need to know that range and adjust it again doing the same method in this video (again, very likely the same process). If you remember how much you tightened it, I would try moving it back first. There is SO much force that holds the wastegate closed, it's unlikely that it was actually loose. You may be able to find the adjustment procedure in a service manual, or the Civic forums online maybe. I would reach out to Full Race in Arizona, since they sell upgraded turbos for the Civic they may already have the information. Any company that modifies one of the turbos would likely have this information, adjusting the electronic wastegate is the most vital part of swapping a turbo.
They're most definitely adjusted correctly from the factory, or they would throw trouble codes. A little rattle is normal when cold, mine does the same thing and so do some others.
Definitely could be. They DO have allowable wear ranges, so it simply could be slightly off enough to throw a code. Depending where the turbos are for the Q, it could be a simple fix just like this one. I would check the Infiniti forums, I’m definitely not familiar with them to help further.
U wouldn't happen to know witch ones are the wastegate modules or where I can find them in the pcm? To set default wastegate position ,the 2017 stay closed on idle and the 2019 and up stay opened
@@cirilogonzalez2642 I checked both the 2017 and the 2019 service manuals, and both are identical for adjustment. Key On Engine Off, floor for 3 seconds and let off slow, record lowest voltage. Voltage should read between 1.1 and 1.3 volts. If it's out of that range, adjust the nut. The manuals call for 4.5 turns on the nut as well, the original information I had was incorrect. You can still use my listed chart for % values though, that will get you close enough in voltages if you don't have access to Forscan. I'm working on the Forscan vid, right now I just have the Ngauge and the Ford IDS software.
When the truck hits the dyno with these new Precision turbos, I'll post a video of it. This particular video was just to show and help those that are headed to swapping turbos with these new electronic wastegates. You don't have to be a nerd to get them working the right way, but you DO have to know how to do it!
@@johnboticki9154 Not many Precision kits in existence, but they're good for an estimated 120 crank horse power. On full supporting mods and fuel (race gas, e85, meth), it should be good for 650 wheel all day long.
This setup was horrible by ford. My wastegates rattle like hell. They replaced them twice already. Horrible noise to hear. I guess everyone says they need to replace the turbos now smh
Anymore luck with the turbo rattle. My 2017 has just over 30.000 miles and it’s been rattling since I bought it last year in November. Had them do the cam phasers and then realized it was the wastegates
