The whole taping and marking the ignition switch as well as placing the key in another area is a perfect example of the way I try to teach people. You my friend are a true craftsman and an expert.
204 whp and 92 ft-lb. Stock bike weighs 441. Subtract about 14 pounds for full system, another 5 pounds for lithium battery, drop 8 pounds for CF rear wheel/rotor/sprocket, 5 pounds for CF front wheel/rotors, and 1 pound for rearsets and fender elim. Est. 408 pounds wet. 2.0 pounds per HP Or 1,102 HP per ton. Kind of ridiculous.
I did not like my S1000RR IT WAS NOTHING ! On the other hand my Aprilla was bad to the boan over 200 hp but who cares because it turned and fit my body better ! I go less miles out of the tiers too 2000 miles a set . That from more power to the ground.
@YT1344 - There is knowledge to be gained in even the most mundane topics. In fact, we have seen the 'simple' task of an oil change destroy engines and cause crashes (from a loose drain plug). It's the little things in life the can creep up and cause you big problems. Having a proven structure to follow, every time, helps prevent these issues.
I recently bought a 2018 gsxr 1000R. Very surprised to see it still used the old 10 40. With such a high rpm a assumed we would be at a lower weight. Awesome machine. Can't wait to stop up at Brocks and get a full exhaust system with proper ecu settings. We have the best man right here in the great state of Ohio.
Brock you're a tuning master. If only I was in Ohio to have you personally tune my A1 ZX-12! Love watching the detailed in depth videos you make. You've made GREAT parts for years and hopefully your products continue being made, TESTED and sold for years to come. Keep it up
@Brock - Very impressive. I would be very interested in the Quick/Blip installation, and its consistency over time compared to the RR. Not sure anyone would have thought 204 hp out of this bike, even with MR-12. This set-up is just amazing, a winning package. We've had a few 70 degree days in Texas recently, hit the twisties, mixed in some wheelies, the bike just keeps getting better, all in stock form. At 194-204 hp (depending on which package is used) this bike's grunt & scream is destined for beast-hood, what an amazing piece of machinery. GIXZILLA, it LIVES!!
Very cool vid...you covered all the questions I've often asked myself. You seem like a such a cool guy too. Right tools with the knowledge makes any job a breeze.
Magnificent obsession, well done Brock! I know you have more tricks up your sleeve? Lets see how far the rabbit hole goes. By far these series are hands down the best, much appreciated.👍👍👍
I agree. You can't say it , but I can...... K&N filters take way too long to get oil pressure after changing. I wonder how many heart attacks they've caused😥. Fill the filter before fitting or better still, use a genuine oil filter. 🤗
Ecstar is the prefered oil for use in the GSX-R1000. We use our Alisyn because the light weight (viscosity) helps the engine accelerate quicker for drag racing.
@@BrockDavidson That makes sense (and it certainly seems to work well for you) and you did a good job explaining the benefits and your experience with these lubricants. I just wanted to bring attention to the fact that these lubricants have gotten pretty advanced compared to where they used to be. Also, it really is too bad you can't ship to California. I want to buy a full package from you :(.
I used Alysin less that zero at 999 miles in my 2018 R1. Three thousand miles later with the Petron Plus additive here in South Texas the bike is running fantastic. I was just told to change it every 3,000-4,000 miles. At 599 miles I changed it with Yamalube15-50w Full Synthetic. Then before I had her dyno tuned I changed to Amsoil oil filter and Alysin. Love this stuff! Brock Davidson
@@BrockDavidson I live in California, 40 miles south of Fresno, I just bought a 22 ZX10R, did my 1st oil change 550 miles, put in Castrol Power1 10W-40 full synthetic in , now has 900 miles on it My next oil change. I was going to use the oil you recommended along with that. Additive which weight would you go with and I ride spring summer fall winter I daily my bike to work everyday. Thanks for your reply and help.
Great bloody name mate, 'Brock' is the most famous name in Australian Motorsport .. and then topping it of with 'Davidson' what a pearler .. Pretty good way to start life.being born with that name.
Definitely would be interesting to see what some timing advancements would result in! Then I'd think it would get into the nitty gritty of per horsepower stack ups after porting heads.
Another great video Brock. You are really looking comfortable in front of the camera. Probably not as many retakes. Keep up the great work. The gsxr will be Stupid Fast at the drag strip. Can't wait for 1/4 mile times!
Brock 2013 Busa Pump gas flash/tune Brocks meg exh. Made 188.2hp Did your 10/30pro Alysin oil. Power charge treatment . Petron added. Sprint filter. Shnitz short stacks. Re.dyno. made 195.7hp same dyno Weather/humidity was about the same. 15k on bike 93 pump gas. Next test mr12 an evac crank case mod. Hopefully make 206hp.
I use Motul 7100 10/40 full synthetic on my 2020 zx10 and 2009 cbr600. And I use K&N oil filters. My bikes run great. I've never heard of the oil you use. Very interesting.
Just got back into the super bike realm. I know where I'm getting my performance parts for my next bike; here in Ohio. Maybe a road trip is in store too. Keep up wit the great videos and products.
The last couple of days I’ve been watching your videos , and what I have to say is WOW! Awesome stuff! Talking about oil , have you ever used or heard of MILITEC-1 oil additive ? I’ve been using it over 10 years and love it. You should definitely look in to it . Less friction, smoother ride , just a great product over all. Last year put more than 55k miles on my 2014 FZ09 using it with Castrol oil 10w50 ( here in Los Angeles ) with no issues what’s so ever! It would be nice to see some numbers on the dyno when add to the oil. Thanks again for the great content on your channel.
Glad you like our vids. I have not tried MILITEC-1. It took us years to confirm an additive that truly worked for our application - so we stick with the Petron+. We have tested other additives that made a bit more power... but we also encountered clutch slip and a couple even produced corrosion of internal components. You haven't lived until you have wiped oil off of a rusty connecting rod or trans. gear.
I'm kind of surprised you didn't talk about the deceleration part of the graph you can see the superior low-friction quality when you look at the Dcell part
We made the ECU/pump gas video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uuwPdWOSGRA.html the qs/ab have no effect on power - they just sound cool (:
See long description for video time tags. More info. on 2005 GSX-R1000 mentioned (not 1100... I misspoke ): blog.brocksperformance.com/customer-testimonial-alisyn-oil-and-petron-tony-wiford/
@Johnny Smith - define 'shorty'. Our Alien Head full system is short and powerful: brocksperformance.com/alien-head-2-full-system-14-muffler-gsx-r1000-and-gsx-r1000r-17-18/
Thanks again for the video Brock! Will the racing oil maybe make a bigger difference after you put some more miles into it? Will it then not thin out a little bit more?
Hi Brock! You put quite interesting & informative videos up here, I like to watch them - thanks! I have a question about those hp numbers: @ the rear wheel or calculated flywheel figures?
I heard about you a long time ago back when Joe Marasco was running around small towns with a hired rider and a bike hustling drug dealers out of their money at the track. I had an old 94 gsxr 1100 with a 56 tooth rear sprocket and a mechanical switch rigged up to the throttle that opened up a hidden nitrous system hidden under the rear fender and the air box. I would rev the piss out of it when I would purge the system into an air release muffler that I got from work.
The thicker oil back then is because the oil will cling to the metal more. With today's lubricant technology it's now better to run lighter since thinner oil flows through the engine parts more easily while maintaining the 'cling factor'.
@Ryda 1000 - that's the beauty of how we do business. We develop the combinations, send them to you (with all maps pre-loaded) and you, or your shop install. You have EXACTLY what we have here, and it's all 100% ready to run out of the box. please call 937-912-0054 for pricing, etc.
Please keep going with the build the only thing that could have made the data better would to be making passes on every change just to watch the ET drop but I understand weather conditions change to much at least run it stock wheel base for a base line # before to add an arm loving it
@Busa1811, we make passes on every single change - from the days baseline run (s) we show the relevant changes - if we tried to show them all, it would get boring to watch AND confusing for the viewer.
Brock Davidson understood I was talking about on the track not dyno lol I think us fellow racers out there would like to see a stock bike with your current package make a 1/4 mile pass then make one after the BSTs ceramics lowing and so on
Busa1811 wolaver I agree. Have been following this a long time. And the question for me right now is: Is the gixxer on pair with the S1000RR's and ZX10's on the 1/4 mile YES or NO?
Wish I could just speak to you alittle bit more privately other than here on RU-vid to fully here your input on how I should have my bike set up to run these 9 10ths of a mile racing I do since we have almost identical setups
my e-mail is bmail@brocksperformance.com - you can also browse our FAQ section: blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/ where we have gear ratio calculators, etc.
We performed all of these tests/development on the 2015 R1/R1M also - we just didn't document the entire process on RU-vid like we did for Gixzilla. Check out our R1 info. page: www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp1.aspx?articleid=779&zoneid=22
Flo Stainless steel reusable oil filters flow really well and save money in the long term. 35 micron (35 one-millionths of an inch) absolute, tons more flow no mater the viscosity. Paper and cotton may filter well, but big specks and little specks alike go through them due to inconsistent media packing.
FYI. The stainless reusable sometimes work TOO well... they tend to clog with clutch dust in streetbike drag race conditions. This used to kill engines. Now, they will crunch like an accordion or overpower a safety spring to prevent engine damage when clogged, which is great!... But it allows unfiltered oil to flow through your engine. We use them in street riding and drag conditions where the oil is frequently changed, and they work well.
Nice video. Great you are explaining every detail. I had hoped you would do a run with the alisyn oil and after that a run with petron plus added, just to see the results. Quick question: i've got a Triumph Street Triple with 55k (km not miles). The engine (mildly tuned) is still running great. Would it be a good idea to ad petron plus to extend engine life?
@Jan - yes. We use Petron in our cars (have seen as much as a 3 MPG increase!), trucks etc. I even use it in our 28 HP Kawasaki-motored mower. It mixes with any brand/type of motor oil.
Brock can you tune a gen 2 hayabusa to make 200hp with similar mods? Great videos btw and thank you for sharing all the tips that kind of knowledge takes lots of time and money.
@Mike Smith - very close. 195 SAE is very good for a Gen 2 on good fuel. It's also enough hp for an excellent rider to get into the 8's in stock wheelbase form: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wrsIt_I6hqw.html
Brock Davidson Sorry I didn't know you replied and thank you for doing so. I called your shop looking for a busa exhaust the Gen 3 but the young lady said it was no longer available. Will you guys every make another run of them? Also if I buy a exhaust and I get a power commander will it come with a map for the exhaust ? My busa is a 2012 thanks again for your time. My bike is all stock just ridden on the street is all
@Mike Smith - no more Gen 3's. Yes, you select from the map dropdown and we will install the map for you. Here is more info: blog.brocksperformance.com/brocks-performance-exhaust-purchase-guide/
Brock Davidson wow thanks again for the reply. I will look it over I bought a set of links from you and they look great. Thank you again I just have to figure out what exhaust because this stock setup weighs ALOT. I need something quiet as possible though. Thanks again man.
I'm not impressed with 20K. I have 3 bikes and my oldest bike (2012 gsxr 600) is over that with Castrol 10w-40 fully synthetic. Switching to lucas next. My bikes and clutches seem to love it.
Sweet. Just curious, what would it take $$ to get my ZX14R SE set up for land speed racing? I want to pass 200mph. It's a completely stock 2016 bike with 700 miles on it right now. I'm here in Ohio too, not far from 650ib actually by the filthy streets of Cleveland, haha. I know there's some regulations like a metal chain guard and such. I'm finishing some of my dad's bucket list items for him since he passed away last year. He never saw 200mph. Hence the reason I bought the ZX14R.
@Photo - Please give us a call 937-912-0054. Our customer service team can put a combination together to match your use and budget. FYI: one of our customers still holds the LSR record for a 14r using only bolt-on components at 212.898 MPH . Check her out here: www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp1.aspx?articleid=363&zoneid=10
My stock BMW clutch took a ton of abuse. Its for sure not fragile like a gen 4 ZX10 or R1 clutch. I find them to be pretty robust like Suzuki clutches.
What do you think of Liqui Moly oil. They also have oil additive. Motogp uses it. Have you ever used it? What's your take on This? I use mobile 1 10w40 4t racing. No additives
Hey Brock, whats your opinion on using Alisyn in heaver applications such as high performance v-twins air and liquid cooled in the 20W50 weight? You said you use Alisyn in all your bikes with "stock engines" can you elaborate more on that? What oil do you use for modified engines?
For dyno test your method using less than 0w engine oil and oil additive are just okay. We don't know the final viscosity of engine oil after oil additive mixed into it. It's a big different if talking about everyday use bike. For everyday use bike long time performance and low cost maintainance is important. Engine oil viscosity has significant role on maintaining combustion chamber cleanliness, thus perfect fuel+02 burning as long service period and low emission exhaust gas will be. Use thinner oil than oem spec cause faster carbon buildup in combustion chamber that affect the engine performance. Other words, what brock's performance did only fit on high performance or competition use bike.
@herry -This FAQ explains the final viscosity after adding the Petron additive: blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/what-is-the-best-weight-alisyn-oil-for-my-application/
@herry - this FAQ shows how what we did has been used for years, for many thousands of miles on the street and race track combined: blog.brocksperformance.com/customer-testimonial-alisyn-oil-and-petron-tony-wiford/
Hey Brock! Have you ever put Rotella T6 oil in a bike? I've used this with some Motorcote and even a little Lucas oil additive. But I'm sure you could test this hypothesis? I am quite the mad scientist when mixing oils together lol. Also what about lifetime oil filters? Like Flo or System1? I run a Flo and just the cost savings over a year pays for itself and I believe it works if not better than O.e.m. Do you rebuild engines? Like take a stock 750 and bore it out? Or is this something a specific engine builder would do? What about turbo? Are you adding one to this Gixer?
Yes on the Rotella - Good stuff! But it works much better in my diesel truck, IMO. We use only OEM Oil Filters. Check this about rebuilding engines: bit.ly/3aXtFTK
Brock I have on my gsxr 1000 17 a 43 sprocket it’s flashed and tuned the alien head exhaust and it’s on mr12 it’s hitting the rev limiter hard at @ 14,800 I’m thinking of dropping another tooth a 42 sprocket to top out at 206,207 mph should I raise the limiter at 15,000 rpm or higher what do you think I’m 150lbs my bike is set up for the 9 10ths miles racing but I want it to go eventually faster without hp dropping, tell me what you recommend tire size is a 180/60 diablo supercoursa
And NO of the 15K RPMs. At 14.8K, you are already a bit higher than recommended. What is sometimes difficult to understand, is that the stress on the components increases exponentially as RPM's increse, which can lead to premature engine failure.
I have a question I have a 03 Yamaha R6 2nd gear for me feel a little bit like it something's there but they say it's just me but I was wondering about putting a aftermarket clutch from STG high performance but it's only going to be driven on the highways and freeways but sometimes I like to go fast
@Alleycat - that's excactly what we were hoping when we purchased the standard model. We can't wait to see how it performs on the drag strip with it's lighter weight, better midrange, and smaller frontal area. Compared to most 1000's on the market today.
9:40 I'd never try to pretend I know your business better than you do, and I mean that sincerely, but filling your oil filter with oil before installing it I had thought is highly advised against, specifically because you're bypassing the filter with whatever oil you pour in.
@demon39063 - I'm not sure what this means? "specifically because you're bypassing the filter with whatever oil you pour in." The idea behind pre-filling is to help reduce the lag in time refilling the engine oiling system after an oil change. A dry-running engine is increasing the wear on parts and can lead to bearing scuff in just seconds. On some bikes, the oil pressure light will stay illuminated for 3-5 seconds after the first start-up following an oil change. Pre oiling the filter can reduce this time to 1-2 seconds or less. Add up those seconds over the required oil changes during engine life, and you can see why some identical bikes suffer catastrophic engine failure and some don't. An additional note. Clean air regulations have eliminated zinc from most of today's motor oils. Zinc is very effective as a part lubricant during dry engine occurrences (start-up/wheeles/hard braking etc...). That's why we have used our Petron Oil Additive for many years. It's cheap insurance to help prevent damage: brocksperformance.com/petron-oil-additive-4-cycle-lube/
