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Town and Country with 12 Volts on the 5 Volt Reference! 

Automotive Diagnostics & Programming
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This 2003 Chrysler Town and Country has been having an intermittent battery light and running rough concern that I wasn't originally able to duplicate but I finally found the issue!
#topdon #diagnostics #autorepair

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1 авг 2023

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Комментарии : 116   
@graymodeler
I have this same vehicle with 200k on it. Bought new. The injector harness burned through and shorted the injectors to ground and sprayed raw fuel out the tail pipe. I got a harness from Dorman and installed it. The top of the plenum comes off and the injectors are accessible. I wrapped my harness with reflective insulation tape and all is well.
@DrewGangl
Oh boy, Ivan is going to love this one.
@sheerwillsurvival2064
And you just saved that customer big money for a PCM 👊🏻
@sohailrabani
This fault is accessible atleast jack sir..if you come across parking actuator plug repair on prius 2nd gen you will be amazed to see how much work it will be to just repair a connector 😢...great work and explanation 👍🏿..cheers
@scottschantz2553
Nice job Jake! Had a similar T&C years ago that destroyed the PCM because the soy based wire insulation, through the same harness, were completely degraded and tge injector wires and others were fused together.
@bigragu6828
I’m sure there’s more damage under the loom. Definitely try to find one from a junker, maybe the same harness was used in multiple years and models. My zen moments are electrical repair with soldering or even uninsulated butt connectors and heat shrink. Can’t wait to see repair if you get it. Can we also talk about that headliner holding on by only hopes and dreams.
@arthuraucar3696
Very informative and interesting video!! This one can really bite you if you're not thorough like Jake! Not every tech out there can figure this one out without replacing the ecm! Thanks again for that great piece of information!!!!
@kennedysgarage3281
I really did enjoy your methodical diagnostic approach, well done on finding the problem on this testing problem. Well done Jake 👏👏👏
@vincentmoy2002
@vincentmoy2002 14 дней назад
I'm just a DIYer trying to learn more about auto electronic because of my truck keeps throwing a code when wet and wanted to learn more since the dealer can't fix the problem after thousands of dollars spent. Between you, PH Ivan and South Main I learn a lot more about modern vehicles. I really like how you video how to connect your scope/test lights vs Ivan just says how he connect it. For beginners like myself it's really nice to have a visual to reference. Please keep up the good work!
@bobcombs7138
Definitely a great video! Wiring harness would be my first thought but if not available, then the heat shrink should do the trick. Love your approach on this one! Most techs wouldn't have thought of this technique for troubleshooting. Very impressive!
@vickenkaragozian2041
Change the harness. Great approach to find the problem.
@poorboyman5565
I believe the quickest way to get the car back to the customer is to de-pin the connector and cover the exposed wires as you said with heat shrink its a 20 yrs old car and the customer will probably get a few more years from the repair. Great way of reasoning out where to look for the problem to be. I do enjoy your videos.
@nickayivor8432
Start to finish. I loved it. the tutorial was outstanding
@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT
Great train of thought, Jake! Very interesting case - probably, as the plug was loose, it got closer to the exhaust shield and cooked the wire insulation, or it is just too hot there. If no chance for a new harness (or a decent one from a salvage yard), I would go for the individual wire heat shrink solution, possibly adding an external heat insulating sleeve, to the part of the harness closer to the exhaust, because the heat shrink sleeve could still melt.
@HouseCallAutoRepair
A visit to the scrap yards to find the plug and needed wires... Chop chop, and splice...
@chekelley6861
I had a similar issue with a early 2000 Ford Explorer. Two cylinder misfire. Easy right? Waste spark coil. A cylinder pair had no spark. Scoped the primary for the pair and had battery voltage key on and a great pull to ground by the pcm while running. Needs a coil. Seen a hundred. Put a new coil. Same issue. I noticed when I manipulated the pigtail to unplug the coil for a second time, I could hear some crackling sound under the conduit. Start pulling back the conduit and the wire insulation literally started turning to dust. I could blow on the wire and even visually good insulation just blew away. Turns out, the coil power was bleeding to the coil trigger wire making it look like the power was feeding through the coil primary and being triggered by the pcm, but it just had enough resistance in the short to power to give a good waveform, but was never actually saturating the primary winding! If I had of ohmed the primary and secondary I may have caught it. Here in Arizona, we have the opposite of green crusties. We have the brown dust. 😅
@calholli
I was thinking: "just unpin them and add heat shrink"-- and then you said it out loud.. lol..
@jackb3232
i knew what is problem.Airbag on the roof is deployd.
@carltonlane8931
Speak to customer,ideally harness,but if not untapped harness,then heat shrink each wire ,retake,position cable away from not pipe,a 20 year town and country van,the repair will be ok,and look for a replacement harness,customer choice,enjoyable video,thanks.
@SevensWorld-up4xg
Wow, did this bring back old memories. It's a problem we used to run into a lot here in Fl. It's the whole injector sub-harness, damaged by exhaust manifold heat... and then you couldn't get a
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