Check out the Great Outdoors Channel All referenced links on this channel @tommysgreatoutdoors Music by Austin & Jessica Davis @austinjessicadavis6907
Beautiful boat, excellent video and great narration. I wish they could somehow upgrade the front deck storage. Being used to a custom jon boat it would definitely be different than we have been used to, looks like they make up for it in the rear side storage, just would take some getting used to!
Just wondering I see you have a curved overhead door is it 7' at the low part and will your crossover fit under the seven foot portion . Thanks in advance
That is correct. Lowest part is 7ft and the top of the curve is close to 8ft. If fits on the 7ft side, but by a few inches. I will also say that my dad has a 7ft door overall. His fits but he has to have his middle window open to get past his garage door opener.
Thanks for the review. Helped me a lot. One question for you though: on Lund's website it lists the overall length for the trailer/boat/motor as 21'5", but doesn't specify whether this is with the swing tongue extended or not. What's the overall length of your setup with the tongue swung back?
Was looking to get into an Impact, Fisherman, or Crossover. However Lund's site states, height (with boat on trailer) is 7 foot, is this accurate? If so, does lowering the tongue buy you a couple inches and would the trailer be maneuverable to move it by yourself or possibly a drop-down hitch? My door is at 81" compared to 7' (84" for the Boat on Trailer). Wish there was one of them "boat shows" going on now (that I've always ignore in the past) or a dealer nearby. So I could measure before making a $60,000 investment. Be nice if they developed a retractable/fold-down window somehow. 😃
I can tell you that I have an 8' door, but my opening is one of those curved top deals where the opening is smaller on the sides and tallest in the middle. The lowest part is around 7'. Just trim the motor sown a little bit and you should be fine.
Great video! Shopping for an 1875. Have you found that the all black and smooth-surfaced rails/gunnells are either/both hot and slippery? Any remedies, if so?
The gunwales have a little texture built in. I’ve had no issues stepping on them from a dock. If you wanted, get som self adhesive non slip treads used for steps. Pretty inexpensive on Amazon and you can cut to size.
If I had to choose between Tyee and fisherman, it would depend very much on my wallet. I like the rod storage better on the fisherman, but the Tyee is a nicer boat with a higher horsepower rating. If money was not a concern, it was be tyee.
Prices vary on line, usually a full set for both sides will be north of $300. Saw some on eBay for $330 just now. There is a separate install video on my channel if you want to check that out.
I have the same boat with a 150 merc and a 9.9 kicker. I’m finding it difficult to keep straight while trolling on lake Erie. The minute the wind picks up it turns the boat around. Very hard to control. If 2 people are fishing one has to basically stay on the wheel. Any suggestions
Mine runs pretty straight, but I had a similar issue in my last boat. 2 key contributors was placement of weight and transducers. Since you have the kicker, there is some extra weight in the back corner. The boat is designed to have this here, but you may need to redistribute weight elsewhere in the boat to try and level it out. I had one of my transducers was placed in a way that acted like a trim tab and made the boat track a little weird. Some of these new ones are a bit larger then they use to be. It was unintentional, but relocating the transducer fixed the issue. It did take some trail and error.
High sides and shallow draft will always be your enemy in the wind. This is why I set the throttle setting on my kicker and lock it in place. I use the bow mount to turn the boat.
Do you have any issues running your helix off of your crank battery? Did you upgrade the battery that came with the boat? Just thinking with bilge, live well, accessories, stereo, graph it may run it down
No issues. However if you were to run all day or extended periods of time with out running the big motor then a separate dedicated battery would be a good idea.
@@tigeman77 The dealer installs the batteries. Each dealer will be different. Some will charge you for what ever battery you want. Others will have a some kind of prep package that may include a number of things. In any case, best to talk to your dealer. In my case its a simple lead acid battery. Nothing special, works just fine for my use. I'm not going all day without the big motor, I spend an hour or two in a spot at most and then move on to another one.
@@tommysgreatoutdoors Right on good to hear. 80hrs is a decent amount. I see that Lund offers a second axle trailer brake option; in your opinion would this be a good option?
All in all how much did this boat cost you In total I’m very interested in this make and model of boat its everything I’m looking for in a boat and what I’m looking to do with it, and best is no dock storage fees for winter.
Base boat, motor, and trailer with a few dealer add-ons was $55K. After I added everything you saw in the video including the electronics, tax, title, etc was almost $70K.
I’ve gone maybe 4-5 hours so far on the troll batteries. Still had over a half a charge. I troll crank baits all day with the 150. I end up around 2.8 to 3.0 MPH for the most part on a calm day.
The 15 is a little big. It’s cool, but if I had to do it again I would have gotten the 12. Having it low and in the center still gives a really good view. For me it just blocks seeing into the bow. Seeing past the bow is good.
Thanks for the reply. I have a plan this year to do a different install and try and lower it a little bit more. It's not any worse than those that are running twin graphs on their boat, but it could be better.
Does that have wooden floors? With all the hardware showing I would say yes but.... They want an arm and a leg for what you get now, even if it's a nice boat.
@@tommysgreatoutdoors I wish I could have the Tracker back I had. It was a nice boat. Not as much as yours but it was like the 1675,1775s a little more plain but a nicely equipped boat with a live well and bait well. The only thing the Lunds have it didn't was a nice rod box. If I ever get in the place to get a new boat it'll probably be like the 1775. I think they're pretty easy for one man to handle fishing alone. Are those fancy high dollar graphs worth the money? Did you do a full review on yours'?
@@bradh74 As far as the graphs, it really depends on what you want to use them for. If you want basic 2D sonar, down imaging, and/or GPS, then a Helix 7 has a good price point for a decent size screen. If you really want to unlock the full capability of a minnkota trolling motor, follow contour lines, side imaging, smart strike, and so on, well this does cost a bit more. Again depends on what you want to use. It's worth the money if you are going to use it, if not don't spend the money. The only bad thing I guess is if you want a bigger screen, then you're going to pay for the features whether you use them or not.
@@tommysgreatoutdoors Thanks. It kind of kills me like the pro's set ups. Some have that big high dollar set up at the helm and the bow, some have a flasher with 1970's tech at the bow. It's like you said though it depends on what you want and if you aren't using it then, why. If that's 3d now that would be really nice so you don't get in trouble. Is it fast enough to read the contours while running at speed or do you need to be trolling?
@@bradh74 I installed a high speed 2D transducer on my Helix so that I can read at speed. That video is on my channel if you want to see it. It's not at all expensive and I can usually read at 49 MPH. Now, at that speed you're not going to see any detail, but you'll know how deep you are.
