@truenorthmotos9965 has been having a few little issues with their new 2023 KTM 300XC and he asked me to measure some parts of my clutch to see if they match his!
"Yes, Nord-Lock washers can be reused. We recommend that you visually check that the washer is not worn before replacing it. Note that you must orient the washers correctly when reusing, cam side to cam side." Directly from Nord-Lock Group. Yes, they are awesome. Try to loosen the nut with your hand after tightening it finger-tight.
My 2020 250 xc-w clutch with 140 hours I have never looked at yet. It has made a lot of noise from day one idling but has worked great. I change oil at 15 hours come out dirty but nothing like yours. My 17 te250 had over 200 hours was way quieter than 20 and same thing no problems. Ktm make really good clutches. My 2012 ktm 250 sx had originally clutch and I used it on a snowbike for 4 years. It did rattle a little when first taking off.
So on my 21 husky fx450 had a similar clutch. The holes are for how hard or soft the clutch is. From the factory they put it on the #2. I switched mine to the #3 and worked much better. Less flame out when I made that change.
So, the real purpose for the different holes is to get the set height on the diaphragm spring correct. If you look at the service manual it shows that you are supposed to get that spring flat on install. That puts the “appropriate” tension on it.
Those washers are called Nord-Locks and it is critical they go back together as they were. Very cool type of lock washer, but there is definitely a wrong way with them.
@highlandcycles HEY MORGAN..!!!! 🙂 You may know this but... KTM Does Have A Stronger OEM DDS Clutch spring. It will replace any #78132005000 DDS spring but it is Stiffer. The stiffer spring is #78932005000 and is OEM Stock on the newer 450SX-F/XC-F and 450/500 EXC-F bikes. The stiffer spring is 1.61MM thick versus 1.5MM thick for the Factory installed spring. It has the same ID and OD dimensions but is slightly thicker, thus stiffer! It is often referred to as the 280 spring. 🤒 THANKS For ALL YOU DO.!!!! 😜🤪😝😎
Yeah. I know but I really want to keep the lever feel like it is. I have since, changed my oil a few times and it’s getting cleaner. Wonder if it was something from break in or some other weird thing.
Mine exc-f 350 2024 model burnt the clutch at 25 hours from new. All the metal plates were blued, also the outer hub is now blue without any trace of wear. Damper rubber ware also toasted with small dents. But to my surprise when I disassembled the nut was not very tight, and the needle bearings had much play, which I doubt to be normal. So when I mount the outer hub I can hear clicking noise? What was the problem to your friends bike? Did you found? Cheers!
It does indicate that but the setting on that retainer is supposed to be used to get the diaphragm spring flat. It’s not supposed to be used to increase or decrease pressure. And the spring was flat
Hey bro I dig your show, but I disagree with your comments on engine lubrication. I run cheap trans/engine oil but Change it at sooner intervals. A factory mechanic told me that he didn't care what oil I ran as long as I dumped it after every ride/race. In order to benefit from the additives in synthetic blends you have to keep to a stringent maintenance plan. If you ride at the professional level you need synthetic if you are a lapper you can run 30 wt recycled from your car!
Not sure what I said about lubrication that you disagree with. I agree with what you said. I don't like to use crappy walmart oil but I don't think you need to use super high end oil either. As long as its clean its doing a good job. I don't think that way about 2 stroke oil but that is a bit different. In my opinion, the only good thing about fully synthetic motor oil is its resistance to breaking down at high temp/stress
Not gonna lie I reuse the washer lock thingy a cpl times too my KTM clutch is pretty noisy too like a chattering sound works great but the sound drives me insane it's been apart cpl times but me and shops and we don't see any issue they claim it's just a noisy clutch
@@highlandcycles Very possible but nothing worse then a unfamiliar sound on a new machine makes u think shits gonna blow up are something if u ever figure out what it is making the noise keep me informed so I can check into mine
They must of changed something in there. Mine is noticeable louder at idle and when it’s turning off it rattles or even in gear and rocking it back and forth it seems to make more noise then the 20.
What oil did you switch to? Great video. How many hours does your friend have on his bike? Other than the bluing would this be a problem getting that hot? I know my last ktms suggest first oil change after 1 hour.
I think the bluing was Original, from Factory heat treating. It is cooked oil from quenching the hot plates in oil. The friction plates have just worn away the very top colored surface. All Normal! 🙂
Slave cylinders on the ktm/huskies are known to go bad very quickly. The rekluse is a popular replacement slave cylinder but the spring in them breaks.
I've never seen a KTM clutch system before. That basket is beautiful and steel too boot! WOW! Interesting that the blueing on plates appears to be on the inside indicating heat transfer from inner hub. Are the intermediated plates and the inner hub made of steel? Was it just camera disparities or is it truly only blueing on inside? If it is I'd be looking at an overheating hub issue and not a friction issue. Thanks for showing us poor bastards what new tech looks like!
You are correct about the blueing being on the inside next to hub but I think that’s because the friction plates scrub the surface clean. The hub is aluminum and the plates are steel.
@@highlandcycles was there any blueing on the outside end where the clutch didn't rub? Ive seen plates blued all the way across even through clutch rubber areas. I've never seen it like yours are and especially with so few hours on them. I wonder if the clutch isn't completely releasing? I've never owned a Hydraulic clutched bike. Is there a way to find out if its releasing completely and theres no pressure on it when your finger isn't pulling on the lever? Cable bikes you just back off the adjuster.
@@smashedfootlefty4726 no other blueing. Just the inner plates. Yes it could be that it’s not completely engaging but I don’t think that’s it. The adjustment was spot on.
