Do you ever notice that locks get harder to pick after repeatedly picking them? I have some master locks that I could easily get open that are now quite difficult. Can the internal parts wear down making it more difficult to pick open?
Thanks for letting us visualize what you have been talking about with the too short driver pins. A big help! (I still can't believe they keep making this mistake!)
Thanks. That crimp trick is handy. I've seen people file away the crimp when they could have just rotated the core 90 degrees. Oops. The real problem is when the core is crimped on two sides.
Oh my! How embarrassing for the Master of none. I have not found a #27 at the local Home Despot, I will try Lowes. I think the inability to get the driver pins right is telling about the lack of QC at Master. It appears the lock its self is fairly durable but the core is so poorly made it is pointless. Nice video, thanks.
You remind me of one of my friends. Your ability to grab a lock with overly short pins is reminiscent of her ability to pick a random bottle and have it be corked. It's either really bad luck or witchcraft. For you the former, her the latter
LOL. I have at least one more with short dirvers on its way... a 4 pin lock with 2 short drivers! Yes, you only need to pick two pins. LOL. This is getting silly!
Interesting position of the lock ( your channel,your choice). Just it is shimable and the other master below isn't !🤔🔓😯 Love the bit about the crimped core ( everyday is a school day).🤔😎😎 Thanks as always for sharing 😘😘👍😎
Very cool that this lock can be disassembled. Stupid question: Laminated padlocks and solid ones - is one of both construction better or cheaper to manufacture?
I don't have an answer based on personal knowledge, but my understanding is the laminated is far cheaper to make. I've also read that laminated construction is more impact resistant, but that might just be internet hearsay. Personally, I'd always prefer a hardened solid body over a laminated body, everything else being equal.
Nice, I have come to expect from you. However I am a bit confused... only because I watched you pick #1 and heard it click. IDK. But still an awesome video.
Thanks... and you are not confused -- I did pick pin number 1. I don't think I ever said that I didn't. All I said was that, in retrospect, I probably didn't have to.
there seems to be a pandemic of short driver pins. Its nice that you can at least make a better lock out of this #27 by modifying the core with some security pins and maybe some threading or undercutting/milling. I really enjoy your series. Did you finish the disc series and I missed it? or did disc locks get boring and you're taking a break from them? lol. Thanks for another well done video.
I still need to reshoot your Challet... I'm not planning any other disc locks for now. I've just been too lazy to take all the locks out and do it. *embarrassed, awkward smile*
Aren't they called "zero set" pins? SUPPOSED to prevent bumping by causing any lift to cause an overset, but with no security pins, what does it matter
Is there a benefit to using top of the key way tension as opposed to tensioning from the bottom? It seems like you would be crowding yourself by tensioning in the same place you’re trying to access the pins.
Thats a pretty old masterlock no 27 And that may be an 11 mil shackel but it is case hardened, not through hardened. I dont know if the 27 still looks like that though. But I still mostly agree with you and it is rekeyable so that is nice.
Can you pick a lock if it is broken? Just curious. I had a Master padlock on a shed door that stopped working. Key fit in just fine but wouldn't turn. A friend's husband who does construction got it off for me, but if this ever happens again, it would be nice to have a clue how to remove the padlock.
Ok I’ve had the exact same master lock I’ve been fighting for about a gd year now! I’m to the point of just cutting it open in order to cuss at its guts. Any pointers from anyone?