Thanks for the break down on the ge vs gte. I have a 2005 gs300 and I'm looking to make around 325ish hp as just a nice driving street car/daily so knowing more about these engines helps alot
Awesome! That's about the power level my engine was making with the turbo kit the previous owner put on, and it was stock also. The car can handle it. I took apart the engine in another video and inspected it after the turbo kit had been on the stock internals for years. The big issue I had was with the AEM piggyback not being able to control the engine well, it really needs a standalone to function properly
Maan I bought 2003 Lexus IS300 SportCross A/T with 284500KM on it so I bought it with same reason to build it and so far you are the only one ONLY ONE so detailed and perfect on all the explanations like for dummies, I’m diploma engineer (IT&Automation) and when I was watching the rest of 2JZ-GE NA-T videos here in YT I was struggling to understand how they do it, your videos are not gold, they are platinum, God bless you because anyone who want to be on a budget will be able to even donate to you after they successfully finish their IS300 build on a budget in sign of appreciation of your head work man at least this is what I’m gonna do after I fully build mine because of your videos man !!! HUGE RESPECT !!! And this video is only having 896 views yet ??? WTF 🤯🤯🤣🤦♂️🤦♂️👀 your videos will make Rad Dan(I love his masterpiece work) and Papadakis racing (also huge respect) to envy a bit 😂 … I have only one dummy question because I’m not understanding the interference and non interference engine difference, I understand that the IS300 engine is interference engine and if you brake the timing belt you will bend a valve and it could go even worse, but my dummy question is what makes the 2JZ-GTE VVTi and non VVTi engines non interference ? Is it only the GTE head ? I’m asking because if you follow simple logic, there IS300 block is exactly the same as GTE block, so theoretically if you put the GTE head to the GE block aren’t you converting exactly the GE interference engine to an GTE non interference engine, cause Manley pistons rods and crankshaft in the IS300 2JZ-GE are also fitting perfectly in the GTE block right ? So when you mount the GTE head on the GE block are you gonna get non interference engine as an end result, I need confirmation to know in advance to order GTE head too ;)
Thank you for your comment and kind words! The compression ratio makes it interference, but also the larger cams will too. Basically I made my engine non interference when I lowered the compression ratio with the pistons, but I made it interference again by choosing camshafts with a high lift, they end up pushing the valves open further and can touch the pistons if not timed properly.
@@LegitRaceCraft Hmm thank you for your great explanation again and if I follow your awesome explanation, that means that if I drop 8.5:1 Manley pistons (dish like) for 86mm bore and if I leave my stock 2JZ-GE camshafts and a thicker head gasket (MLS or stock TT gasket or else please let me know) I’ll be a kind of able to make it non interference too ? Am I right ? Or I really need GTE full assembly head and such 8.5:1 compression ratio pistons to be 100% that it will become non interference ? I just want to make it no interference and to boost it safely until I can … personally I don’t need more than 580 bhp on wheels or even 490 bhp on wheels, I only need more power because I’ll keep it full interior (1547kg) but also I will attempt in drift events with it, so I’m truly sure that I’ll need more BHP I order to maintain proper drift and this is the only reason I want to boost it over 600bhp or even more, just to be capable of catching up the overall stock weight ! ;)
Yeah. 8.5:1 pistons would make it non interference. The stock TT gasket is MLS, so you'll be find running the OEM supra head gasket. honestly though, if you're running a good timing belt and you ditch the OEM style tensioner for a billet one then you shouldn't need to worry about the engine being interference or non interference.
@@LegitRaceCraft Yeah but I prefer intentionally to make it non interference as Rad Dan says, if you snap a timing belt, don’t worry just set all the markings put a new timing belt and voila… you are ready to go, no headache, no bend valves and you are totally relaxed and calm ;) … P.S. I think I finally got it, 9.0:1 Manley pistons will give me around 8.5 to 8.7:1 compression ratio with the TT HG ;) … I really hope the stock valves from the stock GE head will do the job too …
I haven't thought about the compression ratio with the gte TT head gasket. I always assumed that the 9.0:1 compression ratio was for the tt engine head gasket. So if you paired the ge head gasket with the Manley 9.0:1 pistons you would probably see 9.2 cr. It's worth looking into. Mine is 9.0:1 with a TT HG and high lift aftermarket cams and my pistons just barely bump my valves when I rotate the crank and I don't have the timing belt (1 tooth from tdc)
I'm not sure, but I can tell you that the thread and diameter is the same. I'll be running the fj cruiser oil filter on mine. It's a larger filter than stock and it is the same thread and diameter.
Doing a 2jz-ge vvti build but just bolting on the GTE turbos and other things to it, was a very informative video! power steering pump reservoir has to be relocated? If so did you use a kit? I have a 02 GS300 but should be the same thing
Thanks for your comment. I shouldn't need to relocate the power steering pump reservoir with the intake manifold I'll be using, I'll find out soon. I'll be putting the head on the block once I get valve shims
Great vid man. 👌 I was wondering if you know the difference between the GE non-vvti and the GE vvti blocks. I'm planning on building a GE-T or NA-T with my 2 GE's I have but get the best option and of course diz delete. Wondering if I delete my vvti on that head, can I use the oil feed from the vvti to feed my turbo? Thx man.
The differences that I know about between the GE VVTi and non VVTi are the distributor on the non VVTi and the different oil filter housing bolt on the vvti. VVTi version moved the oil pressure sensor over to the bolt that goes through the oil filter housing into the block. And they enlarged the hole (where the sensor was on the non VVTi block) to accept the larger VVTi feed. If I were you I would keep the GE VVTi head and put it on non VVTi block, or pull the stronger pistons/rods from the non VVTi block and put them in the vvti block. It would be easier to pull the pistons and rods out and install them in the other block since drilling and tapping the vvti oil feed would be a little difficult and metal shavings would get in the block. I'd be curious how this turns out though! Keep me updated :)
do you mean GTE VVTi cams in a GE? Yes. The intake cam is practically identical, but the exhaust cam has a longer duration. I'd only install the exhaust cam if I were to do it, but yes, it'll fit.
@@shootingstarstv2309 the sensor is on the intake cam side, so the sensor won't need changing, but it's the same cam anyway. The only thing you'll need to do is check your valve lash with a feeler gauge. It should be close to tolerance still, it's keep the OEM GE intake cam so you don't need to measure or possibly reshim the valves. And supposedly the cam sensor sits a different distance from the intake cam, but I don't even know it that's true or hear-say. If you keep your intake cam then it won't make a difference anyway. Just swap the exhaust one out if you want, most people consider this a small upgrade that isn't worth the effort, but the GTE VVTi cam is cheap enough that it's not a big deal.
@@shootingstarstv2309 It would make a very small difference. I've seen people argue back and forth online about whether or not swapping for the GTE cams is beneficial. All I can say for sure is that the cam duration is longer, which will help with spooling a turbo. You will need to check your valve lash with a feeler gauge when installing the new cam also though. As far as the coil packs, if you're still using the OEM ECU, then keep the OEM coils. If you need to replace one, then only use OEM. If you have a standalone, then definitely install something like Yaris individual coils. They're cheap and worth the upgrade. But like I said, if OEM ECU, then stick with OEM brand coils
Mine had 190k miles on it and didn't consume oil, it only leaked. I don't think the oil consumption is normal, but these are known to develop oil leaks around the vvti gear, and when they do they leak a lot of oil
@@LegitRaceCraft I had most of my seals replaced except rear main and valve seals, both of those seem fine atm, I believe the oil control rings are gummed up due to the last owners lack of oil changes.🤦🏾♂️
Valve seals shouldn't cause much oil to burn in the engine, just on start up usually. How many miles are on the engine? I remember my RMS being in fairly good shape to have 190k on it. And I just changed my FJ Cruiser RMS at 160k but only because I had the transmission out. The RMS was still perfectly fine at that mileage too
@@LegitRaceCraft I believe 173XXXK I got my 2002 IS300 when I it had 140k, I'm currently running shell rotella T5 10w30, I know it's a diesel oil but it has extra detergents
@@LegitRaceCraft can you not turn on your smartphone flash? (assuming you are recording on it?) Very informative video and really want to see where things at 😉
Lol, if I were using a smartphone, yes. I have a GoPro on a karma gimbal. When I'm using a tripod I have a light-ring attachment for the top of the GoPro but the gimbal holds the GoPro in a way that I can't use the light-ring
