*ATTENTION VIEWERS*: When I install the two spacers that go behind and in front of the flex plate at 1:44:15 I installed them backwards in this video! The thick one without the curved edge goes between the engine and the flex plate, and the one with the curved edge goes between the flex plate and the torque converter. The curved edge should be pointing away from the engine, towards the transmission.
dear sir i have a 2000 acura tl 3,2 and when the engine is hot it wont start it has to sit and cool before it start up again what problem do i have also it keep on giving the same code after after i change all the coil pack and plug what else do i need to focus on changing
@@mumzell123 I have the same problem with my car and I can't figure it out but I'm replacing my head gasket and ima do some research on my vehicle, do you want me to do some on yours ?
Dude. This video is long! I loooove it! Love the explanations, love the music, love that you used chapters! A huge job that deserves a huge congrats!! Always put the oil pump on before the pan! 😁😁 Really awesome man!
Haha thanks man!! I was excited for this video, and although I wish I had done some things differently video wise, it took lots of work and I'm happy with how it came out. And yes lol, oil pump always on before the pan... learned that the hard way...
Great job on putting this together. My son has this car and recently started having issues with misfires. We just started w disassembling to do spark plugs, wires, injectors etc, and found that cylinder 5 has antifreeze on. plug. We did a head gasket fume detection test previous to this via radiator which the color stayed blue and didn't turn yellow. Hoping the head gasket isnnt blown or block cracked. Dont have a place to do the job u did unfortunately😢. wondering what to do from here... thanks again for the great video!
If you have coolant on the plug and in the cylinder then it’s leaking in there form somewhere. Sometimes it can happen that exhaust doesn’t get inside the coolant but coolant does get into the cylinder. A leak down test could help with that. That means pressurizing the cooling system up to operating pressure (16ish psi), pulling the plugs out, and looking in there with a boroscope. You will see drips of coolant if it is leaking. Hope this helps!
I was nervous when I started but it turns out people were right, these engines are easier to work on than they seem. As long as you label all your hardware so you know where it all goes, and maybe take some pictures of how things were bolted on, this is actually a pretty basic engine. Nothing crazy. It's just like a simple 4 cylinder but with 2 extra cylinders. And hopefully you can reference this video to help you out. However.... one thing to keep in mind if you wanna go NA-T, is that the 2JZ-GE VVTi is actually the worst one of them to boost lol. The rods on this are weaker than all the other ones, and the compression ratio is the highest of all 4 variants (GE VVTi, GE non VVTi, GTE VVTi, GTE non VVTi). Toyota put thinner and lighter rods in this one to improve response and power, and although it works and is still a strong engine, it's not like the other 3 which all have the same rods as the GTE. Also, compression is the next issue. You can boost the GE VVTi and be fine on stock rods as long as you don't go too crazy, but compression is already 10.5-1 which for boost is very high. You wanna bring it down as much as you can. I recommend at least going with a GTE headgasket which is an MLS gasket, as opposed to the SLS style for the GE. I know some people also put in a small spacer for the head but I think if you go with the GTE gasket that should drop it down to a safe zone. Also don't forget supporting mods. Fuel, MAF, exhaust, etc. Hope this all helps!
Thank you! I'm glad the video helped, that was my goal with this. I had seen so many other videos but none of them were an all in one, so I decided to make this hoping it would contain everything you needed to know for doing this job.
How to have a good time: Take a shot for everytime my boy says: "I don't know the torque spec, but I'm gonna go with tight." 🤙 2JZ DIY-ers are lucky to have you man, sick video!!
This is the best video ever see it With all the details is so helpful alot You are a very smart men to do all this work on your own I have a lexus is 300 2003 so this video is great help Great work you have done and thank you for uploading this amazing video with all those details Respect
Thanks for the video. I would like to have seen you check the head and the block for flatness with a straight edge and a feeler gage before you sent it off to the machine shop just to see how much machining was required. It seems like most 2JZ enthusiasts assume the block is flat because it's cast steel. In most cases it's probably OK, however I found my engine block was not flat. It had a high spot at both ends. Only a few thou, but enough to cause early failure of the head gasket, despite having a new flat surface on the head. So in a full rebuild it would be wise to send the block and the head for machining then you can be sure the job will be perfect.
I agree with you, I was on a tight budget however so if I ever pull this engine apart (future NA-T build...?) I will definitely be planing both surfaces
After 2 days straight watching Lexus IS/GS video RU-vid finally realizes yes yes he does want it all and they finally give me this! Totally boss shit happening here! Great job buddy👍🏼
Excellent Video with beautiful straight to the point explanations! I have 1999 GS300 with a blown head gasket and it's having trouble running, puffing out white smoke and loosing coolent. The oil is totally normal and doesn't look milky , does that mean that the engine has a better chance at survival? Also is it normal for these cars to blow head gaskets ?
Thank you! If you end up fixing it yourself then I hope this video will come in handy! So for the blown head gasket... it sounds like your gasket blew between one of the cylinders and a coolant passage. Maybe even between two cylinders and a coolant passage. But a head gasket can blow in several ways. It can leak oil or coolant or both externally only (which is what I had on mine, it was pouring oil on the exhaust side), it can blow between the oil and coolant passage only and that's when you get no running issues and no smoke from the exhaust, but you get the milkshake oil and low coolant levels. It can also blow just between cylinders, and your oil and coolant are not affected but you get a misfire on two cylinders due to low compression because the compression from one escapes to the other one, and finally it can blow between an oil or coolant port and a cylinder, like yours. So yours seems to have blown between a coolant port and a cylinder. Now since it's having trouble running, that's telling me that either it also blew between two cylinders, or it's drinking so much coolant that it's choking itself to death in that one cylinder. Both of which are not great, but could be worse. So basically the answer to your question is... yes and no. The only good thing there is that you don't have to worry about your oil getting thinner and losing its lubrication properties. But hopefully the piston and the cylinder wall didn't suffer from all that coolant. But on the bright side, maybe it cleaned out that cylinder? Lol usually coolant will clean things out if it gets burnt. Anyway, it's not super common for these cars to blow headgaskets but it's also not unheard of. Many do end up having head gasket issues. Probably because Toyota used a single layer steel gasket, as opposed to the GTE which used a multi layer steel gasket which are known to hold better (thus why they used it on the turbo version). The GE VVTi is also the weakest of all 4 variants when it comes to pistons, connecting rods, and probably even head gaskets. Everything else is the same, but those are the weak spots. Honestly, the job is worth doing and the engine is worth fixing. The only thing is that if you're gonna have it torn down that far, I recommend going all out like I did in the video, even if you are paying someone for it. You don't wanna have to open anything back up after the repair. So replace ALL seals, ALL gaskets, timing belt, water pump, reseal the oil pans, replace valve seals, have the head fully inspected at a machine shop, have them set the valve lash, literally everything that would require taking this apart. This is exactly the route I went. I saved up enough money to do it all at once, and it took me a month, but it's all done and I don't have to worry about it again. Except for the leak that sprung a few months after the reseal lol which to this day I am still ignoring... I guess I have to take it apart and see what it is. Anyway, huge response, probably more than you were expecting, but I hope this helps!
@@AutoFixYT Thank you so much for the detailed explanation, it answered alot of my questions. I am kind of scared to tackle this job since I've never done anything big like this and don't have alot of the tools like an engine host etc. but after seeing your video it gave me some much needed confidence. I really like this Lexus gs300 and I want to save it, it has 260k miles and ran strong until this. On the bright side, I will get another 260k miles if I do it.
@@Travelingcarguy1 I was honestly also very nervous. I had never done this either. But for me it was either do this or not have the car anymore. So I told myself that as long as I follow all procedures, everything should go well. I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow a lot of these bigger tools. I borrowed an engine hoist from a co-worker, as well as the special extra long triple square socket for the head bolts, and then a friend of mine had the engine stand, and then another co-worker helped me get all the procedures and torque specs which was crucial. As for the machine shop, was recommended one by someone who had been using them for 10 years with no issues. Either way i was still really nervous. But I was like "well, other people do it so why can't I?" Anyway, you can do it! Just make sure you collect all the info you need to start the job, all the necessary tools, and all the parts you think you'll need. I did link all of it in the description so that should help you figure things out hopefully.
@@AutoFixYT Thanks that gives me confidence. I went ahead and ordered the Lexus service manual for that year so that should help me with the torque specs. With specially tools like the sockets for the headbolt I hope some auto parts store can have a tool loaner program. I still need to find where I can borrow the engine hoist and stand because I too wanna take it out of the car it seems less stressful that way. If I don't do this job, that car will have to be junk. One of the main things I'm scared of is I'm not sure if the head is cracked and rendered useless, then I need to find a used engine. Thanks again for that uplifting attitude, im more confidence to tackle this Lexus. Working on the legendary 2JZGE will be an honor lol For now I'm watching your video everyday and taking notes before I will do this job.
@@Travelingcarguy1 I'm glad you feel more confident! That's what this is all about. Just take your time and make sure you follow procedures and it shouod all be ok. As for the head, unless you severely overheated it, it should be ok. Send it to the machine shop because most likely it will be warped from so many miles, and have them change your valve seals too and check your valve lash, but other than that it should all be easier than you might think. These engines are surprisingly simple. And you're right, working on them is an honor, not everyone gets to do it! The socket you'll need for the head bolts is a M12, that being a 12mm triple square socket. The only thing is it HAS to be a 1/2 inch drive, otherwise you might break a 3/8" tool. The bolts are EXTREMELY tight when you go to remove and install. So be ready for that. The other thing is it needs to have an extra long stem, or head, that way it fits in the valley between the cam caps down to the bolts. The one I had was a snap-on socket that I borrowed from a co-worker but there are other brands that aren't as expensive. That particular socket I had retails at around $50-$60 for just that one socket haha. Good old snap-on... anyway, browse Amazon and you'll likely find one that will work. So it need to be 1/2" drive and it needs to be long. Make sure you have a good long breaker bar too. Like I said those head bolts are TIGHT. My muscles were sore for the next two days after removing those bolts. Same when I installed them lol
Thank you!! Well it took me a month. But it could have taken me 2.5-3 weeks if the machine shop wasn't running late. They were a week late due to circumstances out of their control. But either way, that's how long it took me.
@@AutoFixYT its a sedan 2.2L LE, my loyal daily beater. My GS is swapped with a full aristo GTE, and it's the weekend car. Should consider it for future plans.
@@JeiceNismo Wow awesome! One day maybe I'll get to do a swap like that. For now the funds are lacking lol But my ideal setup for the GS is just to drop in a 100% factory GTE and maaaaaybe a single turbo conversion but nothing big. I wanna be able to daily it and beat on it. The key to beating on these engines is either keeping them stock or spending thousands on proper upgrades.
Very comprehensive video. I love it. Watched it like a movie! I drive a 2001 gs430. Love the car. Pulls like a train and the sound is gorgeous. By the way, it clocked 423.000 miles last week 👌
@@AutoFixYT 3uz-fe plus oil and filter change every 4000miles. Flush the coolant every year! Tranny oil and filter as schedule. I drive a ls600h as well and I believe I wont reach that figure. Hope im wrong! 😅
Hey that was a great video I learned a lot I have the same car had a major leak coming from the cam gear seal fixed it I need to do what you did to my Gs300
Great video and so much detail! But just one tip: when removing or installing the camshafts, remove/replace the bolts a small amount at a time. All of the valve springs are exerting a lot of force on the camshafts and have the potential to break them. (With all the cam caps rather than just 2 on each camshaft)
I've actuallu been watching VGG for a while now haha I saw his channel for the first time almost 2 years ago. But... I don't get what that has to do with my video lol sorry
That's a very tight timeline! I have to say that not sending the head out to get resurfaced is a big risk but it might be ok. The machine shop usually puts valve seals and does a full valve adjustment as well.
This is exactly what I was looking for! I just picked up a is300 that a old lady owned. Just a little oil leak here and there. Was planning on doing a rebuild, then I found your video. And it had all the parts in the description too! 🥹
Awesome ‼️ Awesome ‼️Awesome ‼️👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 This was one of The Best teardown and rebuilds videos I've seen. Very detailed. I took so many notes as I am about to start the same with my 01 IS300. I may be doing a bit more as I'm going to add a turbocharger, but this still points me in the right direction 👍🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🙌🏾👊🏾💪🏾
Thank you!! I'm glad the video helped! Yeah if you're going NA-T conversion I would suggest at least a MLS headgasket instead of the single layer one. That's for low boost, like less than 7-10 psi. More than that you'll need GTE (or GE non-vvti) rods and pistons or some other aftermarket rods. The GE ones are too weak. Basically you'll need to lower the compression ratio as much as possible and make the bottom end more durable. And of course more fuel, etc.
Thank you! Here's the deal with rockauto... you can buy cheap crappy parts from them, or you can buy expensive and quality parts also from them. So rockauto is a great place to buy from, you just have to know what to pick and do your research first. Everything I bought is linked in the description of this video and so far I have not had any issues whatsoever.
When should you push the engine? I just did most of what you did to yours and it runs great no leaks yet but I just finished it about 2 days ago and maybe drove it about 25 miles and I have babbied it
Give it a few hundred miles of normal driving I would say. You want the heat cycles to seat the new head gasket in properly and then after several heat cycles you can push it harder and harder. I think I waited 300-400 miles before I hit redline
When I bought the car the oil that came out of it was disgusting and very black. Like diesel oil black. So I changed for the first year I ran Castrol GTX High Mileage (or regular, doesn't matter) and changed it every 2k miles. Then I alternated between Castrol GTX and Castrol Edge (also high mileage) and changed that every 3k. That's what I do to this day and although it still comes out dirty, it's nowhere near as nasty as what it used to be.
@@carlbrooks90 You can run it it'll be fine. But in my opinion Castrol GTX UltraClean is better at cleaning out old sludge slowly over time. If you want something quicker you can do the ATF method but be careful about doing that.
VERY USEFUL VIDEO! But at the end of the video, after the 5K miles, I see you replaced the Toyota OEM spring Radiator hose clamps, which allow the radiator plastic to expand and contract with temperature, with screw-down clamps that cannot respond to expanding plastic. So tell me, has the radiator hose necks broken off yet?
Wow....Much respect for you doing this job! How did you keep track of everything for the reassembly? Are you a full time mechanic or is this something you do for fun? Thanks again!
Thank you! I appreciate that I just do this as a hobby, I'm not a professional mechanic. Well when it came to where parts went I kinda just remembered, I also had pictures on my phone. As for the all the hardware and small pieces, they all went in labeled zip lock baggies. Lots of bags. Even single item that was attached with hardware got it's own bag and labeled.
@@MikePlacer It's funny actually... I went to college for marketing, I work as a videographer and make videos for a company, meanwhile I fix cars in my driveway and make these videos to help others :) so it's all a little bit of everything lol. I just love cars and am always wanting to learn new things even if I don't need to know it.
@@AutoFixYT Yes Michael is correct! You can make serious money!!! Because clearly you are very detailed oriented. What state are you in? I have '05 Lexus 2JZ-GE I want it rebuilt and upgraded to GTE standards and do about 550-600hp.
2JZs are really easy engines to work on but parts cost A LOT of money haha. I don't work on other people's cars so I can't help you but... if you save up some money and do a little research I'm sure you can build it with no problems
Well done, there’s some tricky bolts in places to get to. I’ve got 2 mk2’s The one in my profile picture is a mk1 which i no longer have but I’ve put the engine out of it into mk2 shell. When you reconnected the battery on yours after putting engine back in, did you have to put ignition on and leave it for 6 minutes for immobiliser to reprogram itself. The other mk2 I’ve got with the vvti engine it, that’s what ive got to do once battery is disconnected. Any ideas how i can get around this as it’s a race track car not for road.
Thanks! And no I did not have to do that. The immobilizer shouldn't forget the chip. I had the battery dis infected for a month and my car still immediately recognized the key
I think you made two very big mistakes in your video. The amount of disassembly that you did but you didn't replace the big end shells or check the mains. You also failed to clean your oil pump and pack it with vaseline for a successful 1st start-up. I sincerely hope that not replacing the big end bearing shells, an inexpensive form of insurance since you were already inside the crankcase. Having a rebuilt cylinder head and valve assembly will put an added load on the bottom end. Not spending money on your rebuild is always a false economy. Good luck
Ok so to answer your two main points: 1. I was only doing a head gasket and a full re-seal, not a rebuild. My bottom end was fine and had no need for new components. I've driven it just over 20k miles since the making of this video and I beat on this car a lot. It sees redline every time I drive it lol. Still runs like new. 2. I primed the oil system before I started it up for the first time, you can see that in the video. I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it until it built oil pressure. That allowed me to avoid a dry startup. 3. I did not rebuild the head. All they did is resurface it, clean it, and put new valve seals in it. It is still the same old original cylinder head with the same old components. Just looked newer. So that's all. My goal was a full re-seal, as the title indicates, not a re-build.
NEED HELP with My GS300 meter box where speedometer needle and fuel gauge needle not working! Car engine starts normal and car drive fine.. Does this mean I need to replace to a new meter box?
It's either an electrical issue such as a bad connection, or a mechanical issue where the gauge does not move because it's mechanically disengaged or broken inside. I would start with a new gauge cluster from a junkyard and see if that solves your problem. For a DIYer that's probably the easiest solution. Of course if you want you can find a wiring diagram and then see if you have signal at the correct wires that feed the broken gauges.
Do you still recommend RockAuto? Are they reliable to get my parts? Everything in ur video is what I need for my head rebuild too? Can u give me details about their service? Or pros and cons…
I think rockauto is great! The only advice I have is to not be temped to go too cheap on parts. They have so many options, including super cheap ones. Which is great if that's what you need, but if you're looking for longevity then make sure you know your brands and know what you're picking. They have plenty of really good choices, often including OEM brands.
I’d love to have you work on my Supra for your channel. Same engine, needs HG replaced. Let me know if you’d be interested I think it could be a great project!
Although Id love to do soemthing like that, unfortunately I don't have any time to work for others as I already have a full time job and a family on top of RU-vid. But I do appreciate the fact that you'd let me tear apart your Supra haha, it means a lot!
Been watching this video doing a head gasket myself kinda wish there was an easy way to plug the sensors and starter below the lower intake in without having to take it back out if you leave the engine in the car they’re pretty much impossible to get to 😂
Two pieces of advice: 1. If you can pull the engine out, do it. It will save your back and your knees from leaning over the large engine bay that these cars have. 2. Get a large pack of sandwich bags / zip lock bags. Put all your hardware in those and label them by part. I had more baggies than I could hold by the end of the teardown. But everything was labeled so two weeks later when the head came back from the machine shop it was much easier to reassemble because I had all my hardware labeled.
Im not the most mechanically inclined person but im tryna learn as i go. Im trying to tackle some of these jobs myself. Next i have coil packs, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket
Awesome! Everyone starts somewhere. 6 years ago I didn't know anything. Now I took apart a 2JZ and then put it back together. Keep it up and you'll learn!
It was also the VVTi gear. It was literally leaking from Everywhere lol. I cleaned it all up before doing this job to confirm, used like 3 whole bottles of break cleaner to get rid of all the gunk and then I confirmed that it had a bad headgasket and bad seals all over.
They're great cars. It's not called a GS300 anymore, they're GS350 because they have the 3.5L engine that Toyota used in almost all V6 cars from like 06 to just a few years ago. So they're great engines, and I'm sure the rest of the car is just as good! So yeah if you have one in mind it'll make a great vehicle! They will be a totally different feel from the 2JZ though. The V6 will have more power, better fuel economy, and will weigh a lot less which will make the car handle a little more like a lightweight sedan. These old GS300s are very heavy and you feel it. They are both great engines, so it comes down to preference. Also, anything with a 2JZ will have the 2JZ price markup so... There's that too haha
Just had to replace the starter motor and it is the worst job I have had to do on this car, very difficult to get to hardly any room. Best thing you did was out it on when the engine was out.
@autofixyt awesome video , I’m very grateful for this video. ,I have a 2001 Lexus is300 , it literally pushed the water out the radiator when u start it , and then white smoke coming out the exhaust , I have Cyl 1 100 psi. 145 with oil Cyl 2 70 psi. 90 Cyl 3 90 psi. 120 Cyl 4 130 psi. 210 Cyl 5 130 psi. Goes up to 180 and leaks down Cyl 6 145 psi. 240 Question is , think I will be ok with just a head gasket replacement. ,do I need to have head worked on at machine shop or could I get away with just a head gasket , or should I just drop another engine in it ?? Please give me your opionion and I do need to save as much money possibly but also want it perfect , I know that’s a lot to ask and people would say well do it rite but I don’t have that money , so let me know what you think , thank you again …
Alright here's my opinion. If money is really that tight, just slap a head gasket on it. Worst case you pull the head back off later and send it out to me decked. Personally, I would not touch the head unless you have one of those massive sanding blocks, like one that covers a very large surface area, so that it cleans as evenly as possible. The bottom end is cast iron, hard to mess up. So clean that off with a razor blade, scraper, some 600 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. The head is the very delicate part. Replace any other gaskets that are leaking also, sonce you're there. Gaskets are cheap. If the timing belt is questionable, get a timing belt for it too. Those are also cheap. One thing to also not skip is new head bolts. Those can be pricey but no matter what you do with the head, if it's not gonna stay on, that's a problem lol so get new head bolts. Check RockAuto.com for all parts, they have them all, they have options, and good prices. No need for a new engine. If you have the tools, knowledge, and time, anything can be fixed. Well... for the most part. Lol. Also, one thing you will need to source for specialty tools is gonna be the M12 triple square socket for the head bolts. Make sure it's a 1/2" drive not 3/8" or you'll snap it trying to get those bolts off or torque them. Make sure it's a beefy looking one. That's all. The VVTi gear bolt takes a big fat Allen socket too but those are very common to find so no big deal. Hopefully you have powerful electric or at least air tools lol Good luck and keep me updated!
@@AutoFixYTim gonna attempt to disassemble the head from the block tmr because while doing a timing belt job I think I timed the engine wrong and bent a valve on cyl 6 , you think I can get away with just replacing the damaged valves, new head gasket and probably some stem seals , new head studs and call it a day? I’m tight on budget too but I don’t think I can afford to get the head machined lol any advice? It’s gonna be my first time taking the head off the block , all that without taking the engine out of the car😅
Yes you can do it with the engine in the car. I only removed the engine and trans because I had other parts to replace plus the oil leak had covered the engine bay, subframe, transmission, engine block, so I wanted to clean everything. But yeah totally doable in the car!
What headlights did you use on your corolla wagon? I’ve got a 97 ce and my headlights are horrendous and all I can find for the corolla is stock or halo headlights. Love the channel and thank you for the helpful videos!
Here are the headlights I have. I retrofitted a projector housing inside the low beams myself, but those assemblies are amazing even without the projector: www.1aauto.com/1993-97-toyota-corolla-performance-lighting-kit-4-piece-set-crystal-style-diamond-style-euro-depo/i/1alhz00040/
Unfortunately I cannot because they are from identifix and you need to have a paid subscription to access that. However if you follow the video or do gid on the i telnet for 2JZ torture sequences there are many files already out there. I found many when I was looking. You just have to be thorough with your search and filter out the nonsense that comes with it.
Good job. Is impressed. Just one question. I thought head gaskets on toyota engines didn't break so quickly, that they lasted quite a long time? I have a 4zz-fe toyota corolla engine, done 270,000 soon. 2000 model. Can head gasket last 3-400,000 km with a nice and soft driving style?
Yes, Toyota headgaskets last a long time... Except for some that don't haha. This one doesn't have issues often, but mine happened to start leaking oil externally and needed to be replaced. Regardless of driving style, if it's going to fail, it will fail. And if it's going to last, it will last. My Corolla has 357k miles on it and the engine has never been apart. I drive it hard many times. My Lexus had 150k miles on it when the head gasket started leaking. It was driven for a long time with an external head gasket leak.
@@AutoFixYT Okay. I've only heard that good driving / rpm below 2500 until the engine has reached operating temperature (especially in cold winters here in the north) can contribute to and extend the life of the head gasket, and of course that it does not run out of antifreeze. But it could also be as you say, if it is meant to last, it does, and vice versa :) 357 thousand kilometers is impressive 👍
Actually it was a very easy engine to work on compared to many others. Also, it didn't have to be pulled out at all, I chose to do that because I had access to the tools to do so, plus I wanted to reseal the trans, replace the power steering rack, and wash the engine bay. So for me it made sense to pull the engine and trans out. As for labor, I did it all myself except for when I sent the head to the machine shop. That cost me $315 in total for the following: - New valve seals - Clean - Resurface - Pressure Test - Valve adjustment On top of that I spent probably another $300 in parts and fluids for the engine alone. However like I said I did other things too. So in total I think I spent just over $1k for this whole project. As for time, it took me 1 month to complete this HOWEVER, this was because I only spent a few hours per day after work (I have a full time job and a family) and I wasted one week because the machine shop was late so for a whole week I actually didn't touch it at all. So if you were to work on this full time, I'd say it's a week and a half project. To me it was totally worth it to repair the engine and go through all this, because I bought the car for $1000 lol so putting all this into it when the value of the car at that time was about $5k, was still totally worth it. Right now I'm abouy $2k invested in this car. So still way under its value. Also it got rear ended almost a year ago and I got almost the whole value of the car back, and then I kept it and still drive it lol so at this point it's really worth it haha
I have access to Identifix which is a service that provides precedures and torque specs for technicians (or whoever wants to pay for it). But if you do a quick Google search you will find it within 5 min for sure. This is a very popular engine and there are tons of forums and websites containing information like this that people have shared.
Hey man great video! I am wondering though, I just got a car from someone who inappropriately aligned the match marks on the crankshaft. Do you think by following your steps in this video someone could diagnose whether a piston rod is bent, if so, about what step if your video would one pay extra attention? The car currently runs but at 30% engine capacity (guessing one or two of the piston rods has lost compression).
Good question. First thing I would do while the engine is still together and running is try to pinpoint which cylinder is having issues. To do that you can do a compression test. After the compression test, you want to perform a leak down test to see where the compression is escaping from, if it's escaping. If its coming from the intake or exhaust while the valves are in the fully closed position, then you have an issue with the valves. If there is no leak but compression is low, then you could have a piston/rod issue. So start there. To check the timing scroll to the part of the video where I install the timing belt. There you can follow exactly the steps I take to set the timing. All the timestamps are in the description. To check the rods you have to take off the lower and upper oil pans, you can find that in my video too. Afterwards you can spin the engine over and look at them from the bottom. To thoroughly inspect them though you'd have to remove them completely, meaning dissasemble the whole engine and inspect the individual rods. It's a big job but it's fun! I hope this helps.
Awesome video but still don’t get it why you didn’t put forged pistons and rods as you already did bottom end open ? Because it will require additional crankshaft rebalancing or else? Please let me know once thanks 🙏
Thank you! I didn't want to touch the bottom end or even the components of the top end, because all I was doing was a head gasket and a full re-seal, as the title indicates. I'd love to build this engine but for now I wanted it refreshed and sealed up, stock and reliable, because this is actually my family car. So until it becomes my daily, it will stay stock.
@@AutoFixYT thanks for the answer, BTW is it possible to remove stock pistons and rods without removing the crank and throw in directly stock GTE rods + pistons, without even rebalancing crank etc… of course you only measure the crank rod clearance and buy the proper thickness bearing to fit the stock GTE rods or it always need crank rebalancing etc … ?
@@cpurage As far as I know it's possible and there should be no need for Reba lancing the crank. But I am not an expert so I'd do more research before attempting.
Yeah I wanted to go with OEM but it was like 3 times the price of the whole kit just for the gasket. The Fel-Pro one is doing just fine! Still holding up like new.
Buy a car that you can work on. Something cheap, something easy to fix. An old Toyota is usually easy to work on, cheap to fix, and cheap to drive if you pick the right one. And just try to read as much as you can about the repair you’re attempting and watch plenty of videos that’s why I can tell kid myou off the top of my head. Hope this helps!
Yea I got an old 1992 Honda Accord an it needs alot of maintenance dun to it an I've been doing a lot of the easy stuff to it but I'm trying to learn part names an where everything is located at an now I can feel lil more confident when I work on it but thanks again bro
I did alot of this blind asfk like 2 month’s ago to swap and do a rear main and didn’t drain anything…. I cannot explain the mess. Drain everything! Trust!
I'm assuming you're asking if these parts are still being manufactured. If so, then yes. If you cannot find the exact part numbers I listed in my description, I'm sure you can find other options. These are popular engines.
why did you not remove the torque converter bolts out and lower bellhousing bolts first so you don't have these issues... I guess if you swapped as many engines as I have you would had known this..
@@AutoFixYT I meant taking the bolts out while engine was still in the car, so you would not had to pull the converter off the engine like that. takes a chance on damaging the input seal.
Oh I see, yeah I didn't mean to separate it that way. The converter was seized on the engine side. Had to pry it and beat it with a rubber mallet. So no matter when I did it or would have separated the same way
Haha no I unfortunately don't work on other people's cars outside of RU-vid, family and work. Also it might cost you more to shop it to me than to have someone do the work locally 😄 But thank you for the trust in me to fix it!
Yup, it's the family car. Doesn't get driven every day, I daily my Corolla and my wife doesn't need to drive every day but it gets driven at least a couple times a week. It's up to 188k miles right now.
Yes and no. Yes it does consume about 1/2 Qt but also no bevause that is totally normal for an engine to consume between oil changes. So overall it's very healthy. I usually pour in 6 quarts and I drain about 5.5. I change it every 3k miles. Currently the car has 194k miles on it
You already went almost stripped out entire engine, so how not sent the engine bloc out with head for resurfacing engine block? Great effort for sharing your experienced.
The block in most cases will be fine since it's steel. And also I would have had to remove the crank and pistons and all that to do the block. And I was trying to keep the cost as low as possible. That's my reasoning. Not the best lol but... it is what it is
@@AutoFixYT thanks . I do have one. My gs300 sat for 4 months finally got it to run right. I put a 16v battery for my car audio but I took it off because it wasn’t running right. A week later it jumped timing two teeth. So now I’m replacing the timing belt kit . Why did it jump timing?It has 189,566 miles on it.
@@fazjewls14 So first thing is the battery... I would avoid 16v batteries in a vehicle because they are not meant to run on 16v and you can end up with problems in the car's computer. As for the timing belt, if it's the original belt then it's probably old and stretched and that's why it skipped. Those belts are due every 90-100k on the GS (or every 10 years). Hopefully when it jumped it didn't bend a valve. The 2JZ-GE VVTi is an interference engine and will bend valves if your belt skips timing
@Auto Fix . Ok awesome. Yea won't put that battery anymore. The engine is running well from what I see. Its just wasting a bit more gas. Yea I'm sure they've never changed the timing belt on it. Thanks again bro. My next thing is to replace the rear lower bushing. If you have a video on that or thinking about making one . Let us know.. 👍💪👊 God bless
@@fazjewls14 Yes definitely replace the belt before any damage occurs. I suggest buying a lit with a belt, tensioner, and water pump. Rockauto has a kit made by AISIN which is what Toyota uses from the factory. As for the gas usage make sure your spark plugs are good and not old and worn. Of they're the original ones at 190k they definitely need to be replaced. It will be expensive but worth it. Do NOT gap them, you can't gap those. Make sure your MAF sensor is clean and working properly, getting a good reading. Also make sure your air filter is nice and clean. What is your average fuel consumption?
