3.0 Mercedes Sprinter Oil Cooler With Turbo On 

Ok guys, I wanted to write a 'review' of this process as I hope to give other people the confidence to do this job. First, let me say that I am not a mechanic, I am fairly decent with tools, but def not a mechanic, and I was able to do this job. I watched this video serveral times, as well as the video with the 5 part process, both videos were really helpful, specially on the other video the guy shows all the bolts that are needed to come off in order to remove the turbo. I suggest that you watch both and jump back and forth when you need something. Using my phone on camera mode with the light on was a lifesaver! There are bolts that are so close to the firewall that are impossible to see, using the phone on camera mode I was able to get a better angle to see the bolts that needed to be removed. Make sure you have a telescopic magnet, you will drop bolts. When removing the turbo, make sure you use a 12 point socket and not a 6pt socket!! Look inside your socket and you should have 12 points, not 6. Six Pt sockets fit, but do not get a good drip. Also make sure when you are putting pressure on the bolts to remove, and your socket is 100% on the bolt, not even a bit crooked, you do not want to round out these bolts. I rounded out the bolt that holds the egr flex pipe, after hours of trying to remove it, and visiting the store to get more tools, I realized that I could cut the head of the bolt and the lower piece would come out with the turbo, so I did that and I had the turbo out then removed the shaft of the bolt by hand. There are two bolts that attach the turbo to the block, I dont think it is shown on this video. Also, Tone uses a LONG T45 to get the bolts out that hold the turbo to the pedestal, you can use a T45 1/2in drive socket with extension, it fits snug, but it fits. Make sure you drain your coolant enough before removing the pedestal. Also, replace your oil before you get the van started after the job, you could have some coolant go into the oil when doing this job, coolant and oil goes through the oil cooler and turbo pedestal, so when you remove it, there are openings for coolant and oil on top of the valley. Once I had the turbo out, I removed the pedestal, then I removed the fuel filter. I was able to remove and reattach the fancy clamps using a pair of needle nose vice grip pliers. Then it was time to remove the oil cooler. All the bolts were covered in dirt, oil and grime, make sure you have some brake cleaner to clean out the bolts so you can see them, and also in order for your socket to sit all the way into the bolt, again, you dont want to round out those bolts. As Tone mentioned, the front left gave me the most trouble, but it wasnt terrible, make sure you have a light that you can put in on top of the oil cooler so you can find the bolts, look in between the gaps for the bolt location, they are all visible, but you have to find them. I had a new oil cooler and I used it to get an idea of the location of each bolt. Once you have all 10 bolts of the oil cooler out, remove the oil cooler, my gaskets were stuck on the block, make sure you remove them. My advice is to start with the most difficult bolt of the oil cooler, you will have more patience at the begining than if you leave it to the end. Make sure you clean the valley, have a lot of those automotive blue paper towels, i had quite a bit of stuff that was not removed even after blowing some compressed air. Then reinstall the oil cooler. Reinstalling the oil cooler, it wasnt too terrible, I used the telescoping magnet to get the bolts in the holes and was even able to get the thread started by turning the magnet handle, just enough to pull the magnet out. Once you have all 10 bolts, get them tight. I wasnt able to get a torque wrench to work, so I got them tight enough. Not super tight, but as tight as they felt coming out. Putting the pedestal and turbo back in place. Putting the pedestal was simple enough, but you'll need the magnet to get those bolts in there. I ordered new bolts for the turbo/exhaust and egr pipes when I ordered my parts from FCP. Before you put your turbo back, make sure you look at new gaskets that go on the exhaust, if they have little holding legs, these have to be installed on the exhaust before the turbo, I did not pay attention and thought I could slide the new gaskets between the turbo pipe and the exhaust, but nope, I had to remove the turbo out once again. Reinstalling the flex egr pipe to the turbo was a major pita, I spent over two hours doing just this and had to remove it all when I couldnt fit the gaskets. The easiest way I found to get the bolt to align was to get a thin screwdriver from the top and insert it to the lower piece then use the vice grip to clamp down the top and bottom pieces, just enough to get the bolt and gasket in. Once you have the turbo pedestal on, turbo, exhaust connected, then I re-installed the fuel filter, I was able to reuse the fancy clamps. At the same time I replaced the Oil filter housing, which is prone for leaks. Here is a step by process: Remove fan and fan shroud (reversed thread 36mm) Remove Air filter housing and air intake pipes Remove turbo resonator and pipes (this would be a good time to replace the donut rubber piece) Drain coolant Remove turbo then turbo pedestal Remove fuel filter Remove Oil Cooler Do a little dance and put everything back together Then make sure you replace your oil and oil filter before starting, you could have coolant in the oil! This is the list of parts I got from FCP. Even though I got a replacement oil cooler with gaskets, I also ordered MB oil cooler gaskets. The MB gaskets were in fact a bit thicker than the non-MB. KIT-OM642 KTNSN-90784 MER-6421880580 Ok, if you were able to read through all of that, then you should be able to do this job. Good luck. Thank you Tone for sharing this hack!

Hey tone, nice! I got a gear wrench 1/4 t30 swivel and long extension for this job, I’m a sprinter tech. This job pays 17 hours and I do it exactly how you do it without removing the intakes and it takes 3 at max. Ofcourse if the customer is In for an intakes job I always recommend changing the oil cooler seals then since you’re already in there but we’re not always that lucky

Great vid! Love how you made the universal and torx bit combination to get the job done. The mark of a great technician!

Thank you for sharing your experience and tricks to save both the customer and shop extra parts and labor expenses!

I like the close-ups, great descriptions.

I knew there had to be some type of shortcut ill try this and let you know if it works on my 2008 dodge sprinter Thanks , youve gained a lifetime subbie

Hey Tone , thanks for creating the Amazon list page. I will order a few things using provided info. Thanks again

You sure are the master of working in tight confines. The heat from the turbo bakes everything near it causing things to get brittle.

The old oil cooler gasket was purple on this video. Shouldn't it have been red? So was this a second gasket repair job on that Dodge Sprinter? Thanks

I've been dreading doing this job on my sprinter until now. This is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge on this! Liked and subscribed

Oh boy I just saw a 5 part video on basically removing the entire engine lol. And here you come like Dale Earnhardt winning the checkered flag . Brother you are a master!!! I own a 2013 Mercedes sprinter with 350,000 thanks for the video

Hi Very good video One question for you to help Are you add any silicone oil to the cooler gasket thanks very much.

You saved me sooo much headache

Thank you!!!

I appreciate that you take the time to get this video, but I would love to know the name of the pliers to undo the hose clamps, thank You!!

I have a 2008 jeep grand cherokee with this engine is it still going to be same process or is there other shit that i need to do ? I would prefer not to remove too many things and this method looks promising.

Great video, thank you! What is the manual you are using on the computer and where can I get one?

Great Content as always! This stuff is gold, thanks for taking the time to share.

Tone you have gained some subs 😎

I’m getting ready to do this on my van, do you have to drain the coolant before you replace the seals? Or it is naturally empty when the engine isn’t running?

A shop did that for me. In the process they squeeze shut the CCV hose, i realized it something wrong a few 100s kms when it started smoking like crazy through the exhaust. I fixed it but The engine is building up pressure in the crank case alot now. Would it be possible that damage the valves seals and the boots is leaking in crank case that way? Or any other ideas? TIA

Ok to recap the process im about to do. Remove fan and shroud Drain coolant Remove turbo Remove turbo pedestal Remove fuel filter Remove oil cooler Did i miss anything? Any other trick to get to the bolts? I read comments of people using T27 and T30... which one is it? Thanks.

Hey Tone! Did you need to remove the radiator for this job?

Can u fix my

What the reason for this

Sometimes you have too think outside of box, electric tape. It works and have done it myself

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This is some hack shit, just use a t25 to disconnect the left bank runner linkage and take the manifolds out. Do it right