FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! please everyone reading this comment remember to replace the O ring that sits on the EGR cooler under the manifold. I did this job with my ol' man and after a long time putting it all back together the engine coolant was pissing out the bottom so we had to start all over again from the beginning 😭😭😭 learn from our mistake and purchase that seal!!!
I think its better to own and maintain 220 cdi 150 ps, very simple , reliable and more economic engine ! V6 is a pain in the ass and big waste of time and money, just some my opinion !
@@joesaric1 ive owned my chrysler 300c v6 CRD for few years now and i still love it. Ive replaced all the common faults including the broken gear shift plastic hook and these bastard seals, i would do it all again to keep it running. The engine has 180k on it and sounds sweet as a nut. I abuse it on race days and have nitrous running through the things a tank
There is a kit out there, can't remember from whom, that has all the seals for everything. I THINK it might be IDparts, but I bought it when I did mine and it was well worth the piece of mind to replace them all...
@@trentcarlson4857 i was extremely disheartened. Was off road for weeks and weeks waiting on a coupler joint for the mani's. I was balling about in a KA... finally got all back together and that happened... square fucking one. Gluing them poxy swirl motor clips back together... nightmare.
Essential video, original style, very well done. It doesn't go into the details of how to dismantle the individual parts, but gives a quick overall idea of the work to be done, what will need to be dismantled step by step.
Nice Video Mate. Wish I'd seen it before pulling the box and sump and then realising it cam from higher up, had her stripped in 2 hrs thanks to you. Bit longer back together. Thanks for taking the time to make the Vid.
Loved your vid, stumbled across this page while researching for the first one I've finished and completed today. Glow 1x glow plug connector broke on me "dammit" . Wish i had seen this earlier :) Never mind. Well done.
if i could add one comment other than nice clear vid , one tip id add is when reinstalling intakes loosely install the bolts into the egr to exhaust flange shown at 2;48 in this video before you tighten down the bolts for the right hand intake manifold to save many stressful attempts to line up the bolt holes after the fact.
I changed mine about a year ago. From what I read, they said that the orange ones were used up until 2009 and the 2010 and newer models had the purple ones. That was not the case. My 2010 had the orange ones and oil everywhere! Thanks to a Malone tune, everything works well and the seals have been replaced.
Great video. Thumps up from my side. Thank you for sharing. But please also add important information's for all watchers. 1. be careful at the moment where you are removing the turbo-holder. At time 3:33. There is a hole which goes directly to the motor-center. It is the oil channel of the turbo. If there some dirty stuff falls in, then you are risking a motor damage. Be sensible and clean it carefully immediately. And close with paper towels the hole before you proceed. 2. after you are done, please make an oil change before starting the motor. Water and dirty stuff is mixing through the oil holes under the oil-cooler. I got a lot information's where after this oil-cleaner change the motor got damaged through this dirt-water stuff. If you are done with the change of the oil-cooler and oil+oilfilter, then you should release a plug of motor electric and give some start tries to turn the motor/pump and so on. After several turns, plug the removed cable back. Start the motor and of course delete the occurred error message in obd. These are just my hints for the community in yt ;) Wish to all much success...
Just wow. I wish I could make a RU-vid car DIY video half as good as this 🤣. This is by all accounts a pain the backside job to do on these engines - however your instructional video is so good that makes it look doable (if I weren't so lazy these days). Subscribed, great channel - keep it up!
Awesome Job, awesome video. Shortly and informative. I dont understand not so much(english) but i think man dont need the language for the work ;) Grettings from germany.
Wow, I've just bought an S Class with this engine, 47,000 miles. I hope I don't need this doing 😩...what a job, kudos 👏 to you though for being able to do it, ...let's put it this way, if it needs doing in the future I might bring it to you ...
fantastic video. I have to change my oil cooler and was wondering if I tackle it myself or fork out thousands for someone else. I was able to follow your steps so I feel a bit more confident about doing it Thanks
Hi merc man ive changed more than 30 sets of oil cooler seals mainly on w164's. I leave the thermostat housing on taking the long bolt out and leave the swirl pot motor attached to one half of the manifold. Disconnecting at one point towards the turbo, makes it slightly easier. Best time 5.5 hours drive in then road test all parts ready to go including brake cleaning oil down. Some do take longer, bolts on turbo and egr need to be changed other wise they have a greater chance of snapping for the next guy. Like your clip simple piece by piece break up. 😉
Hi buddy Do you normally just replace the seals and reuse the old oil cooler or you install a new cooler every time? Just about to order the parts as I am planning to do this job in the next 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
Hello great video, I had a question: How did you cleaned the oil off. Ive replaced the oil coolers seals but i haven’t found a solution to clean all that oil out.
That does not look like a diy project, at least not one I would ever tackle. I think those orange seals are rubber and the purple ones are neoprene. That should be a lifetime fix. That diesel sounds so sweet. I would love to have one again instead of my 01 e320.
An additional oil separator with crankcase gases must be installed on these motors. The engine will live longer, swirl flaps and particulate filter . На эти моторы надо ставить дополнительно сепаратор картерных газов с возвратом масла. Двигатель дольше проживёт , вихревые заслонки и сажевый фильтр.
Hi do you know of any products or companies that do this modification as a bolt on unit? Are you talking about a oil catch can/ breather type of mod? Thanks for the info too.
Hi buddy Do you normally just replace the seals and reuse the old oil cooler or you install a new cooler every time? Just about to order the parts as I am planning to do this job in the next 2 weeks. Thanks in advance
Hi @mercman, I believe I have this problem on my E350d. Are you based around South East London? Or do you know any garages that will fix this in the area? How much do you estimate the cost would be ?
Perfect. One thing to add, change your thermostat and any other perishable seals like egr seal at same time. Don't forget the injector seals.... Replace those old copper seals too.
@MercMan Tips thanks for this video. My car decided to start mixing oil and water, could this be the culprit? My car has never overheated before, and it seems this may solve my issue to replace the seals on this. But I don't know? Hope you can tell me if this could possible and hopefully be my only issue.
Are you UK based? What is the main cause for them to go in the end i have slight leak now, can it leak around engine sump? Or is it mainly by gearbox as you said?
Great video! I'm wondering how long does the fix last and have you seen any OM642 leaking again after replacing the seals? I'm viewing an 2012 ML350 this weekend and it has had the same issue and Mercedes fixed it with Mercedes parts in 2018. Mercedes replaced the oil cooler seal (MA642 188 05 80), oil cooler sing (MA642 180 01 65), and bunch of other gaskets. And looks like the Mercedes parts have defects and would not last long, I'm worried that the oil leak will happen again on the car I'm viewing in a few years. Thanks!
Oh boy ! Mercedes and BMW are Kings when it comes to this ! Plastic in your engine worn out ?? No problem, the part only costs 30 quid, then there's the grand to fit it, plus vat !
Thanks mate for the video Just a quick question Any suggestions regarding liqui moly CeraTec oil additives to this kind engines. Mine is a 2013 Vito 122 CDI V6 Thanks in advance
I have 2014 gl is it same engine? And can you please share how’d you clean all that oil before installation and what seals should be replaced? Thank you so much for your time.
Thanks for showing what it looks like from below, before you dig in. Helps to diagnose. Are there other ways to know for sure it's the oil cooler leaking before you dive in?
Just do the obvious. Remove the rubber grommet on the bell housing of the gearbox to see inside there if it's a crank seal. Check the silicone seals on the inlet to the turbo and from the PCV valve to the inlet. They leak oil onto the swirl flap motor and short it out, blowing fuses and throwing codes. This oil will eventually drip between the engine in the same place as the oil cooler but wont be enough to overflow into the weep hole on the side of the block. General rule of thumb with these - it's the oil cooler seal.
Did this job on my R320. Repaced flaps motor, the runners for the flaps with aluminium. Also replaced all gaskets for everyting i removed from the engine. Time consuming job, but fun.
