And the fact that the only competition in that size are the Anycubic Kobra MAX which is $600 after tax and the CR-10 series which is Ludacrisly higher in cost. This is around $500 after tax.....with all the goodies you could want.
My question/concern, though, is that OK, fine, the big printer can sling that big bed when it's empty... but what about when you have 3kg of filament on there in the form of a print
My biggest tip is, if possible print in parts. If any part comes out not as you want it to you can reprint it knowing you didnt have to reprint the entire model
A trick that I used for supports with a 0.8 mm nozzle is set their line width to 0.4 mm after realizing that they were impossible to pull off after I upgraded to a larger nozzle. I do this in Cura but I'm sure it is also possible on PrusaSlicer. They come off as easy as they did before and do not waste that much plastic anymore
I currently have a large fdm printer, as well as getting a giant Snapmaker Artisan shipped soon, so this is very applicable to my everyday life. I'm also planning on building a full size me for fashion design, so will be using this for that project.
I'm really confused a 0.4 nozzle can print a 0.6 layer width. Also .2 up to .3 layer height. So it doesnt decrease any print time and Prince the same as a 0.6 nozzle
Right? I was expecting a larger increase in layer height to cut down on print time? Maybe like 0.4 or something? Though I guess then you are going to lose some details
Anyone using PETG? I'm using Jessy's settings (with 230/70 for temperature) and periodically get big blobs that form on the nozzle. When the blobs let go they sometimes stick to the print, and the machine can crash into them, causing layer shifts. Very frustrating
Those are some damn decent prints for such a huge print area. Glad the TT worked well for ya here!🤟 Also, this 50 year old ass will still be kicking yours for decades to come!🖕 🤣😂😜
I’m loving these videos! My Neptune 3+ is coming in a week or so and I was wondering if you might have a profile for Cura that you could share. I want to print helmets using a .06.
Hey I got a question about the 3d print industry. What do you think would happen first? FDM printers that will have the small detail quality level of Resin printers, or Resin printers that are as 'safe' as FDM printers (dont have to worry about the chemical hazards)?
The former has already happened. You can FDM with a .1mm nozzle for SLA-like detail. Any print takes days, so would only recommend if it's your second or third printer and not a bed-slinger.
Good tips and great looking prints! Been using a .6mm nozzle on my CR-10 for years and love it. Thanks in large part to you, I pulled the trigger on two Neptune 3 Pro's. They'll hopefully replace my two CR-6 SE's that are constantly in need of maintenance and repair. Just got the shipping notice yesterday.
I been using 0.6 mm Hardened Steel Nozzles on all my 3D printers for about 6 months now! I don't even use the 0.4 mm anymore even though I have allot of those sitting around mostly Brass ones of them. I found that the temperature of the hardened steel nozzles do indeed need to be done higher heat than the brass ones? I do mine now at around 214 c for PLA, 216 c for silk PLA, 228 c for TPU. and 245 to 250 c for PETG. My easy Nylon needs 252 c. and my Carbon Fiber PLA is 220 c and the Glow in the Dark PLA or Rainbow PLA done at 226 c. I can't seem to do ABS. Also speed has to be lowered allot for most filaments to get the good details done. I maybe getting soon the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus to replace my bad Tronxy X5SA. The Plus version is close to the bed size of the Tronxy X5SA just 10 mm smaller than the Tronxy. One thing I have found though, even if you get the heat right and the speed etc. the one effect that makes the filament print well is, FLOW rate. most of the time I have to do around 80% flow rate on PETG or most except the PLA. You get the flow rate of the filament well done than the print will woke.
Nice video. Just need access to those 5Kg filament roles. I run a 0.8mm nozzle on my Creality CR-10SMART A 0.6mm hardened nozzle on my 1 Ender 3 S1 A 0.4mm hardened nozzle on my 2nd Ender 3 S1 And CHEP's fast profiles on a 0.4mm for my 2 Ender 2 Pro printers. I would like to thank videos like these for teaching me all the tricks.
Jesse I literally just bought a 4 kg spool of PLA I ended up just designing a handle and attaching it onto my Lottmax 😂😂😂 i’m really playing Russian roulette with it let’s hope it doesn’t break off
You can keep your million pound spools, I'll just swap my spools, it's really not that hard... A1kg spool will equal about 24 hours of printing, I think I can afford the time to check on my long prints at least once a day.
What supports are those? They look like tree, I put on tree supports on a glass joe and it printed him as a support. I didn't turn on wire mode, I checked.
Unrelated, but how is it recommended to replace the Saturn 2 PFA, I looked at the official video and it has some negative criticism. I looked and saw you replaced your Saturn's without any spacer in a previous video, would that work out?
Prusaslicer is ok but I find super slicer is much better than prusaslicer for many reasons, the primary one being that it doesn't waste filament on solid infill everywhere like other slicers do.
I have started using Prusa slicer for the organic tree supports and it seems to knock some of them down in the process. Is there a setting for z hop or ? so that it will rise up when going over parts printed during travel? Thanks
I've had a 1mm nozzle installed on a cr-10 s5 at school for about a month now. I don't normally print detailed objects, but I will say that prints with a mm nozzle are fast and strong. If you use two walls you can even run with 0% infill in some cases.
The best upgrade you can do is swapping to klipper firmware. Im far from done pushing my ender 3 S1 Pro but I got no problem shaving off a ton of time, and still use a 0.4mm nozzle! even with a lot of tweaking of settings I'm 33% faster than cura slicer estimate. overall I think I half the print time from stock printer. and that would stack on the time savings with a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle!
@@octimus2000 Klipper can measure and counteract the loss in quality at higher print speeds through resonance compensation. You can't run it on most stock boards because the firmware does actual computations rather than just send directions to the printer.
Bought a few of those huge rolls, and some spool holder stands(rollers to set it on to help it spin) and it sorta works. But seems to lag the filament moving giving me massive under extrusion problems. If you can suggest a better way than having to pay 200 bucks for a box to put it in, im all ears. I buy big rolls to save money, dont wanna fork over another 200 just to not have to re-roll 1kg rolls from the 5kg roll.
@@figuresix the 200 box he has in the video is just a box with a turntable in it, so why not just buy a $20 turntable off of amazon or your local big box store? At least thats what I would try. If it's a matter of keeping the filament in line, a length of tubing can be used.
