3 Suit Fabrics Explained: Wool, Cotton & Linen | Beginner Suit Advice 

Thank you for sharing that with us here. I'm sure it will be helpful to those who are interested in suits and breathability.

I’m happy to hear, I’ll keep the videos coming and try to do my best for you guys!

Glad to hear, and I hope my video was helpful

I love a wool/cotton blend suit, but I love a wool/linen blend even more. Here is why: with 50% wool you will have a sturdy suit that has some wrinkle resistance (giving balance to a cotton or linen blend) since wool is springy and a strong fiber, it will also be breathable. Now, if the blend is cotton vs. linen, I will usually go with linen because it will be more breathable than cotton and given the blend, It's likely a summer suit and I want it to be as breathable as possible. I've got dozens of fabrics in wool/linen and wool/cotton at my shop, if you want to know more or even explore some of those options with our made to measure services, drop me a message here and we can take this into a private conversation: www.principlem.com/contact

sometimes linen and silk will have irregularities in the weaving, adding texture, which is normal and acceptable.

Thanks, and glad you liked it! I will dive even deeper in the future.

Hi Chris, if it fits well and you like it, don't let 1% elastane bother you too much. At such a low percentage, I don't think you will have any issues like the knees having a permanent indent of your knee nor will it give off much of a sheen. Instead, look at the positive, the bit of stretch might add some comfort. Also, try to avoid dry cleaning as much as possible, sometimes the cleaning process and pressing can cause a sheen or even mis-shape the suit.

Thank you Gustavo!

Thank you, glad to hear you like it. More to come!

High twist and tweed are going to have a very different look and feel, but the cut and styling will be more important to achieve a 1920's look. I think you have the right idea with finding inspiration from Gatsby since it was set in the 20's. Now, finding the right suit is the challenge...depending where you live, see if you can find a vintage second hand clothing store, you might be surprised what you can find there at a super good price, too. If that doesn't work out, I'd go with an online shop. I have some RTW suits here that could also fit your description but we have limited sizes available ready to wear. If you want to jump on a call, sent me your info on my website contact page and I'll get in touch with you ASAP: www.principlem.com/contact

Yes. But it could also be a balance issue depending on posture. For example, if you are bit stooped or have a broader back than your chest, there is a good chance a suit that fits comfortably across your back will be too roomy across your chest. This is one of the many reasons I mainly offer made to measure and bespoke--to achieve that perfect fit.

Me too, haha! At least I hope so. I'll keep the content coming, 3 videos per month, maybe 4.

Fresco, is the original high twist fabric from Huddersfield Fine Worsted / Hardy Minnis Brand. There are also hopsack fabrics in the Fresco fabric bunch, which are also high twist. There are also a lot of other brands/mills that offer high twist wool fabrics.

Thanks for adding that on wool, I’d like to take a deeper dive into wools in the future. The tobacco linen suit I’m wearing is from Dugdale Bros at 350g, I’d say it’s a great option, in Beijing it gets to around 35c in the summer and that’s when I tend to wear that suit most. That brown linen suit I’m wearing is over 400g, which is a bit too heavy for 35c.

Thanks and welcome

Thank you! Glad you like them, and I'll keep them coming.

Thanks for watching!

Glad you found it useful. Have a safe trip and be sure to check my recent video on RTW, MTM and Bespoke so you know the difference and what you are getting into while in Hong Kong so you don't get scammed!

@@Justin_Kwan made sure to check on trip advisor for reputation and to ask my hong kong local friends as well. i used to live in shanghai so i learned the ropes there; how to bargain & snuff out the scam shops. thanks Justin!

Hi, thanks for the feedback and curiosity. Merino wool only refers to the breed of sheep which have a fine wool that is great for suiting fabrics and knitwear. The suit you got from Indochino was probably a fine worsted, twill or maybe even flannel--all which have less ventilation capabilities due to the tighter weave and/or the overall weight of the fabric was heavy, the later specifically made for cold seasons. A high twist wool will have a lot of ventilation, 250g will be nice and light but even up to 300g and you should be good. Plain weave at 280g, in my opinion, will make the best 4 seasons suit vs. a 280 twill weave (which is what you see most big brands offering for 4 season). When buying a suit, it's important to know what you are getting. From Indochino, you got a made to measure suit, which is custom made, using a base or block pattern with adjustments and produced in an industrial factory--which can result in a well made suit that fits better than off the rack. Bespoke is a suit that is cut by a master tailor for you and made from scratch based on your measurements and posture, usually requires a fitting or two, then it is usually made by a single tailor and a finisher who may help out with buttons, button holes and finishing pick-stitching. I only explain some of this because it leads to your final question--whether you made a suit stateside or from a traveling tailor, know what you are getting and make sure there is transparency. Then, look at your budget of what you want to spend and get the best you can afford. Also, don't walk into any one experience and expect to get a perfect result off the bat, but if you find a tailor that has good communication and understanding of what you want and you have a mutual understanding of what they can offer, then proceed in the relationship. Maybe even start off with a trouser or jacket to test the relationship. As a proprietor of a tailor shop and brand in Beijing for over 10 years, I find the biggest frustration on both sides (me and sometimes my customers) comes from a miss-match in expectations. This is probably too much information but it will save you, and other viewers, a lot of pain and I'd like to share this... Most brands will post their best works online for people to see, for me all of my work, my suits and my pictures are a result of over 19 years in the retail and clothing industry, of going down this sartorial journey and of me posting and publishing the results I've been able to achieve over time, making some mistakes, learning and striving to do better and better each time. I can apply a lot of that experience to each and every one of my customers but I'd be lying if I said I can deliver to you exactly what you see on me immediately, but if you are willing to give it some time, understand there may be some trial and error (ex: what's a good fit, objectively and subjectively) and go down this journey together, we can achieve some amazing results and build a wonderful relationship along the way. Good luck on the journey! It's a lot of fun and I feel it never ends. If you have other questions or what to discuss the topic further, I respond to all inquiries here: www.principlem.com/contact

I don't disagree with your point on older, heavier style fabrics. However, some of the lighter high twist fabrics have fantastic drape, shape and hold a crease great. In hot humid weather, like Beijing summer where it's 30+c, I'm wearing light high twist, my friend!

I'd check a local fabric shop in your area first, or even ebay. I bet you could find some nice stuff starting with those sources.

I'd probably go with a light wool if going with navy. Only because I'd prefer to go with earthy tones if I were to go with a cotton suit. A lightweight navy wool suit around 280g will be great during all 4 seasons for any formal occasion.

Welcome to the sartorial world! I hope you enjoy the journey and discovering the beauty and reason they call it 'classical' clothing. If I might make a suggestion, a wool/linen blend might wear drier and be more cool wearing and breathable than a linen/cotton blend. If you have other more specific questions, I'm happy to help. I check this email daily: www.principlem.com/contact

That is very light. For the jacket, I'd still go with a lightly constructed jacket and I'd go with no lining to keep it even lighter and more relaxed. But do note, it will be casual wearing, wrinkling and a bit 'slumpy' looking at only 200g.

Merry Knoll is nice, especially for HOT climates since it’s on the lighter side. For cotton I like Caccioppoli.

Glad you like it. We will launch our RTW worldwide first, then perhaps start doing trunk shows to offer bespoke and MTM

Hi, the olive suit I’m wearing around 1:25 mark is from the Summer Solids VBC bunch. I try to show around 1cm or around half an inch of cuff.

Is there a specific suit you were interested in? I can help share the fabric name and reference if you let me know. In future videos I'll try to post each suit fabric name for you guys.

Some people don't like the look. The way it evolved was after WWII, Japanese photographers were obsessed with US Ivy style and they when to Ivy league campuses to photograph stylish American students. They realized at that time all the jackets had a 3rd button hole on the lapel and then mimicked the design. Italians thereafter also copied the design. The reason the students at that time had jackets like that is because they were too poor to buy a 2 button jacket so they just ironed their 3 button jacket lapels into a 2 button design. Nowadays, it's associated with nonchalance or Italian Spretzatura and a lot of casual jackets have the 3-roll-2 design. I feel it works well on casual jackets or suits that are less formal. However, I'd never make a suit in a 3-roll-2 design on my formal wear.

Hello, I'd stay away from any poly blend, they don't breath very well and it will feel like you are wearing a plastic bag. Go for a wool in 250 grams and high twist, this will be very breathable and wrinkle resistant. If you are open to something slightly more casual, go with a wool 55% linen 45% blend, which will be light and breathable as well. If you can't find any of these fabrics at a local tailor, message me and I can help out.

@@Justin_Kwan Okay .. let me look around in the local area and If I can't find a good fabric then I'll contact you

@@EIY_Kumar Okay!

Use a hanger that has full, rounded shoulders to keep that shape. Don't use a metal or thin hanger.

@Justin_Kwan Does the same work with a Double Breasted Pea Coat ?

Hi Ernest, first, congrats! I actually made a video about wedding attire, I'll send a link. But to get to your questions; first, wool will surely be more formal--just make sure you get something in a high twist, which will be super breathable, even if its slightly heavier in weight than a less breathable twill wool, which is more dense and less breathable. A 250-280g high twist wool will even be more breathable than a 320-350g Irish linen. Since the suit wont actually be touching your upper body skin, when it comes to wicking sweat away, you might want to consider a linen or cotton/linen blend shirt, which will wick the sweat away and then if you have a breathable suit, sweat will evaporate quicker. I'm not sure what you are thinking of in terms of color, but if you are on the beach, you can consider something more casual to balance out a formal wool on the beach, for example a khaki, tan or beige color (I just posted a pic on my instagram in a high twist suit in this color, check that out, link in my bio to my insta.) I hope this is helpful! Sounds like a wonderful wedding plan!

Here is the wedding attire video I mentioned: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VDR3bmMA8Fk.html

Hi, that's a navy suit with pinstripe made with Scabal's Jet Set super 150's traveller wool. The jacket is a classic single breasted notch lapel design.

Thank you.@@Justin_Kwan

Hi thanks, its an Irish linen from Dugdale Brothers and the color is best described as Tobacco. If you search around, you will find many tailor shops have similar colors. If you are interested, let me know and I can also help out with remote made to measure services and can get you fitted in the same suit.

@@Justin_Kwan Thank you for the quick answer.

Your welcome. Hope it's helpful@@Mooncakeish

Glad you liked it!

Your welcome, I hope you find this useful!

Thank you, Stephen!

Hi Tony, thanks for watching. Great idea, I'll put that on the list. I'm curious, in your profession do they require a tie or would you wear one only by choice?

@@Justin_Kwan Ties are required but I would probably wear one even if they were not.

@@Tony-C thanks for the feedback. I'll try to make a 5 days 5 outfits for the business professional in the near future. Another follow-up question; how many suits should I feature? Would you find it more interesting to have a more minimalist approach with fewer suits and different shirt/tie combos or would you find it more inspiring to see 5 different suits?

@@Justin_Kwan 2 or 3 suits while varying the shirts, ties, shoes, and accessories. This seems like a more reasonable starting point before building up to 5 suits and also highlights the versatility of a business suit. Again, thank you for the videos, hopefully it inspires more people to dress in a classic style as many of us return to the office.

Thank you very much.

Thanks!

Glad you liked it!

Cheers, Philipp

Glad you like it

Great question. If you want to explore a blend, I'd suggest wool/linen over cotton/linen. Here is why: usually anything linen or blended with linen will need to be dry cleaned, negating the biggest benefit of cotton, in my opinion, which is the ability to launder it at home. Second, if you want something cool wearing and a bit casual, cotton added to linen wont actually be any more breathable. If you are thinking of a blend with linen, I think wool is fantastic. Wool will give the fabric more structure, linen will keep it a bit relaxed and they will be airy and breathable while keeping a nice clean drape.

I'd say there are two things to keep in mind with fit: what is, objectively, a good fit. And second, the subjective side of the wearer and what they like and prefer.