I'll cover everything from suiting to casual styling to accessorizing--and how easy and approachable dressing classy can be.
The rewarding part comes in when you feel great about the way you look and exude confidence in your daily life.
About Justin Kwan: I've been in the clothing retail world for nearly 2 decades and realize what I share with my customers in person, I can also share with the world on RU-vid!
Tailored clothing is my specialty and casual attire is a necessity--I'm also always trying to look my best, for me and you!
I'll also share some videos of events and happenings around my clothing brand on this channel.
Full disclosure: I started and established a clothing shop and brand, PRINCIPLE M, in Beijing, China in 2013. www.principlem.com
This is the first video from your channel that I watched. I was expecting a generated stock footage video without in depth information. And I was very surprised. I learned so much in this video. And I loved how you illustrated it all with examples. Great, great, resource!
J Kwan what are your thoughts on a pocket square with a blazer or sports jacket when wearing jeans? I find this to be a bit of a juxtaposition. On the one hand the jeans are a casual element and adding a pocket square increases the formality and draws attention to it. I find it works better with odd trousers as the formality is consistent. I can argue a more exotic fold can lessen the impact but I find almost everyone wearing a pocket square with jeans even when it looks like a direct contradiction. Let me know your thoughts if you can. Love the videos!
Hey, great question. I'm going with the assumption that the jeans are a bit more dressy, mid to high rise and nothing tight. Otherwise the juxtaposition ends with the fashion forward jeans and blazer. In fact, I think the jeans already set a contradiction of breaking rules. Some traditional older gentlemen would still cringe if they saw me with my jacket and jeans. But in a modern world that is constantly changing, we have to adapt a bit as well. I'll wear pocket squares with any and all jackets, regardless of my bottoms. I think the more important thing to consider is how harmonious things come together. I personally don't think a pocket square is out of place nowadays with a jacket and jeans, but a tie would be, in my opinion (unless it's a very casual tie, like a knit one). So you see, there is always an 'if' or a situation that may call for one to break some rules and try out different things for the ultimate goal, which is to have that understated elegance, an outfit that looks effortlessly put together and harmonious in every way.
@@Justin_Kwan Hey thanks for the reply! I completely agree with you. I do believe tailored denim lends itself better to the context over your standard high street denim. Yes absolutely a knitted tie is really the boundary line when it comes to dressing up denim and even then it takes a real eye to craft a certain look that does not exceed its intended effect. I’ve seen Ralph Lauren use this in print, but apart from that context you would look out of place rocking a repp tie with jeans nowadays, I think ivy style does run the risk of looking slightly anachronistic. I think some of these details are imperceptible to the average person but go a long way when creating a coherent look that subconsciously catches the eye of the observer. On a side note if you ever can could you make a video about matching your belts to your shoes? I know the general rules, but I’ve found in smart casual context with denim, what are the rules for a suede belt and suede shoes or vice versa with leather. I find a suede belt and suede shoes to be a bit too matchy matchy, same for leather. I’m trying to find a way to lessen the impact, perhaps a different shade of the same colour or texture. Would love to hear your thoughts! 😊
If you dropped by one of my shops, I bet we'd have a loooong chat about all this. I'll put 'matching belts and shoes' on the list--it can be a bit tricky to style the two tastefully.
Escorial is one that comes to mind. A newer fabric I've seen on the market, Stylebiella, also offers some but they have 4% lycra. Fresco light tend to be slightly less rigid than the original fresco.
Yes, there are some considerations to think about. A darker color suit will flatter a rounder figure than a light color suit. A brown suit would look fantastic!
Great video! I recently made the mistake of not buying enough fabric for a suit, and now i've got a woolen suit jacket but no pants to match!! I've got other wool pants (the normal, not fuzzy ones) but it's a pain trying to find a color match (anthracite). I know i'll never be able to find a perfect match, specially since the fabric itself had a silk inner lining and was very rigid (I have no idea what kind of fabric it was) the seller said it was dead stock Dior fabric, but who knows... what would you do in my situation? Which type of pants would you pair it with? Should i do the abominable and pair it with jeans? Try to find a similar weight fabric? I never seem to wear it and I do feel kind of bad for the wasted fabric.
Definitely don't try to find a close match to make a suit, that will never work out. Instead, let's look at the bright side and be constructive. Matching your dark jacket in anthracite, can look very chic with cream, off-white or white trousers. Wear some black knitwear inside--a polo, knit tee or turtleneck would all work. I'd wear that with black loafers in calf skin or even some black suede Belgian loafers would do. Or, another monochromatic way to wear it would be with a light grey trouser and a white shirt. Start with these two looks, then experiment with other ways to wear it and get that jacket into rotation!
Just found this channel. Great explanations; I had to go back a few times to catch the info. What would you recommend for all-year business suit in Hong Kong weather?
Normally I'd suggest a high twist wool at around 250-280g. However, if you are normally indoors and rarely outdoors (for example, working and living in Central) then a 280g worsted might serve you better. Based on my experience there, the air conditioning is very strong, and believe it or not, a high twist can be a bit too breathable and the cold AC in the summer might might bother you. A worsted will offer a bit better insulation. So, ask yourself if you find yourself cold indoors more often than not? (then go with worsted 280g) or are you always hot? (then go with a high twist wool 250-280g.
If you are thin, a regular size off the shelf might be baggy for you. But I'd argue a classic fit (and classic proportions) will flatter your body more than a slim fit. For example, classic fit can give you more volume and shape rather than a slim fit, which will only further accentuate your slim silhouette. However, the choice is always yours on what to wear.
You think you could do a video on styling a suit for a more physical environment? I work in high end security in Las Vegas and there isn’t enough information out there in terms of fabrics sizing to fit equipment, shoes. Thank you 🙏
This is a great idea, although a bit niche. Since I have a custom clothing brand and tailor shop, I'd be happy to take this conversation private and see if I can help out. Please send me a deeper explanation of what your job entails, the equipment and what look you'd like to have here and I'll follow-up with you: www.principlem.com/contact
My first bespoke was an Indochino. I believe it was Merino wool, though I still found it hot (it wasn't summer). Could it have been too heavy? I understand the merits of the fabric. Is there a budget you would recommend when soliciting a tailor or suitmaker stateside? And thoughts on soliciting traveling tailors based in Asia but take orders from around the world?
Hi, thanks for the feedback and curiosity. Merino wool only refers to the breed of sheep which have a fine wool that is great for suiting fabrics and knitwear. The suit you got from Indochino was probably a fine worsted, twill or maybe even flannel--all which have less ventilation capabilities due to the tighter weave and/or the overall weight of the fabric was heavy, the later specifically made for cold seasons. A high twist wool will have a lot of ventilation, 250g will be nice and light but even up to 300g and you should be good. Plain weave at 280g, in my opinion, will make the best 4 seasons suit vs. a 280 twill weave (which is what you see most big brands offering for 4 season). When buying a suit, it's important to know what you are getting. From Indochino, you got a made to measure suit, which is custom made, using a base or block pattern with adjustments and produced in an industrial factory--which can result in a well made suit that fits better than off the rack. Bespoke is a suit that is cut by a master tailor for you and made from scratch based on your measurements and posture, usually requires a fitting or two, then it is usually made by a single tailor and a finisher who may help out with buttons, button holes and finishing pick-stitching. I only explain some of this because it leads to your final question--whether you made a suit stateside or from a traveling tailor, know what you are getting and make sure there is transparency. Then, look at your budget of what you want to spend and get the best you can afford. Also, don't walk into any one experience and expect to get a perfect result off the bat, but if you find a tailor that has good communication and understanding of what you want and you have a mutual understanding of what they can offer, then proceed in the relationship. Maybe even start off with a trouser or jacket to test the relationship. As a proprietor of a tailor shop and brand in Beijing for over 10 years, I find the biggest frustration on both sides (me and sometimes my customers) comes from a miss-match in expectations. This is probably too much information but it will save you, and other viewers, a lot of pain and I'd like to share this... Most brands will post their best works online for people to see, for me all of my work, my suits and my pictures are a result of over 19 years in the retail and clothing industry, of going down this sartorial journey and of me posting and publishing the results I've been able to achieve over time, making some mistakes, learning and striving to do better and better each time. I can apply a lot of that experience to each and every one of my customers but I'd be lying if I said I can deliver to you exactly what you see on me immediately, but if you are willing to give it some time, understand there may be some trial and error (ex: what's a good fit, objectively and subjectively) and go down this journey together, we can achieve some amazing results and build a wonderful relationship along the way. Good luck on the journey! It's a lot of fun and I feel it never ends. If you have other questions or what to discuss the topic further, I respond to all inquiries here: www.principlem.com/contact
the only problem is once you start to appreciate what's out there you also realize how bloody expensive it can be to dress nicely. I still enjoy it though, my suit I had made makes me look better than 99% of people in just about any situation.
The jackets, trousers and polos are from www.principlem.com, the jeans are from Chad Prom (www.bntailor.com). If there are some specific items you are curious about, let me know.
This was a informative video! I used to buy cheap polyester suits. Now I always try to guy 100% wool with it lined with a material thats breathable like silk or viscose. I was amazed because with my polyester suits I would start to sweat just from standing and my first time wearing a wool suit I didnt sweat at all even while running around
Sweat is almost inevitable, thats why your under-garment (polo, shirt, etc.) should be easy to take care of and launder since it will be what absorbs the sweat. Go with cotton/linen shirts or crochet woven polos for breathability and sweat wicking. If you are outdoors and you will have to walk a few blocks and might sweat, take of the jacket and throw it over the shoulder (this looks stylish btw) so you can give the undergarment the chance to wick sweat away from your body and dry with some air contact. Once back indoors into temperature controlled environment, throw the jacket back on. As for the jacket and wool trousers, get something in a high twist breathable wool at around 250 grams. This kind of wool will have more ventilation than a cotton or linen, believe it or not. Check out my other video on wools if you want to learn more about that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ql42vZB5v4k.html
the thing with these outfits for me is: they look really nice, but when it's humid and 37 °C out, there is no way that these would be anywhere near cool enough. I know one would need to choose the right fabrics, but still... two layers of the thinest wool, linen, or cotton is still way to much for me on a hot and humid summer day.
then dont wear it on 37 c days. But no, two layers of the thinist linnen will absultely be good. if a cotton shirt on its own works, linen on linen will too, cause it is way more breathable inherently. So at most, it should feel similar to a typical cotton tshirt everyone wears in the summer. Plus, its the direct sun rays on your skin that warms you up the most. being covered acutally helps you stay cool for much longer. Same reason you wouldn't catch people living in the desert of egypt wearing short clothing. if anything, they too are layered a lot to protect themselves.
Honestly, ditch the jacket. My hometown would get 40 c humid summers. Play around with different types of shirts. Skip the denim. I like chino pants and chino shorts during the summer. Choose looser fits and untucked cuts for extra ventaliation. I get it. No matter how thin the linen, layering can be killer in some areas.
I love your videos! I just started this journey. I’m trying to buy a sport coat but I live in a very hot/humid place. I think I’m going to try linen blend with cotton.
Welcome to the sartorial world! I hope you enjoy the journey and discovering the beauty and reason they call it 'classical' clothing. If I might make a suggestion, a wool/linen blend might wear drier and be more cool wearing and breathable than a linen/cotton blend. If you have other more specific questions, I'm happy to help. I check this email daily: www.principlem.com/contact
Skinny fit chino's are a definite no for me, but pleats in the waistband are unflattering and old fashioned. Regular fit flat front is the best style, but it is always about personal preference. Young guys can look great in skinny fit, but pleated waists are for old men !
You could wear it casually with jeans and a shirt--but this i'd only recommend with a waistcoat fabric that is also casual, such as a tweed. If the waistcoat is from a more formal suit fabric, it's harder to break it up. However, you could still just wear the suit trousers, a shirt and the matching waistcoat for a more casual laid back look. This also works in warmer weather where a jacket might be too warm.
I always recommend getting the best quality you have access to. That means if you have access to a bespoke tailor near you, who has a style you like, and you can afford it, go for it. MTM can also be a great option and usually a bit more economical. If you have an athletic body, both should work. With ready to wear, you may need some alterations so the suit will better fit you.
Great video, thank you for the help! Could you make more videos like this in the future? Maybe, ironing shirts, taking care of your clothing, or any valuable information we should know.
Funny you mention that, I was just in Singapore for a conference, and wearing my green hopsack jacket. Outdoors it can be a challenging, I walked nearly 1km from my hotel to the MBS convention center in trousers, a shirt and the jacket. And I admit, I was within 200m away, at which point I gave up and had to the jacket off if I wanted to show up the conference dry, ha! However, when indoors, it's perfect for a jacket IMO. AC is always blasted and the temperature indoors can actually be chilly and call for a jacket.
Yeah, I'm slowly moving in that direction. However, I used to like slightly slimmer and no break...it's interesting how we need time to experiment with style and find what we like--which changes over time.
