I love your videos, and thanks for the wealth of information. I am partially into Chapter 4, but you haven't told us what has to happen to prepare the brass BEFORE putting it in the shell carrier. That whole process seems to have been left out. For someone like myself who is brand new to reloading, I feel like I am missing a big part of it. Can you also deal with what is the recommended number of times that you can reload brass? Again, love the videos....keep 'em coming.
The 327 is almost the perfect round to start reloading. Straight walled pistol case, high mapp, several different cases that work with the same dies, big range of pressures(13000 psi.- 45000 psi') Gotta love it!
Excellent video! 327 is one of my favorite cartridges. I recently took up reloading and 327 was a natural candidate given how hard it is to find factory ammo. I’m always happy to see any content related to the cartridge that gives you 6 shots in a small snubbie and has almost as much energy as a 357. I just wish it was more popular and less hard to find.
you randomly appeared on my YT suggestions some time back and I placed your Chapter 3 in the "watch later", some time ago (3 years?). Now I've watched Ch. 1-4 and have on queue 5-9 and some other ones from your library. You have convinced me to try out 327 and I was always interested in getting into reloading anyways (I'm sure some of the pricing has gone up since then, but still more economical than some of the other calibers). You present the info in a great way so far and you have yourself a new subscriber!
I thank you very much for taking the time to produce this series! You do an excellent job at conveying the information. I would be very interested to see that "Paul Harrell Meat Target"! Again thank you for all your hard work, you have inspired me to try my hand at reloading. Keep up the great work!
feelnhott Thank you for your donation through Patreon! I'm trying to put out at least one video a week from now on. Once I can get 4-5 videos done staged and ready to publish I will be setting a regular publishing schedule. Welcome to the channel and thanks for watching!
Good reloading video for the .327 Fed Mag. I chose the RCBS Carbide dies and they also work weel from 32 Long, 32 H&R, and 327 Federal Magnum. This is a great round. I will have to try the XTP bullets.
Great tutorial, easy for beginners to follow I think. A few things you might consider: When you dry tumble with the spent primers still in the cases and then size and prime on the press as you did here, you have gunk left over in the primer pockets and maybe tumbling media in the flash holes. The jury is still out on whether this matters, but I tumble, resize.decap, clean pockets/flash holes, prime off the press. Also, marking the box with the load data certainly works, but I've had data recorded that way get smudged to the point of being unreadable. There are labels that can be had (MTM makes good ones) or you create a blank form that holds the data. Either way, a paper label in the box is a lot more legible and easy to replace when you reuse the empty box. It's also a good idea to assign a unique lot number to each batch of identical loads and record all the load data and firing results by lot number in a log. That provides a history of what works and what doesn't. In theory, each box would only have to have the lot number. Making sure the guy who finds my reloads can tell what they are is OK for that guy, but I would never trust a stranger's reloads, data on the box or not. I can pull a few and weigh the powder, but I can never positively ID what powder it is.
Thanks! I’m no expert (especially evident from the comments on my latest video) but I try to make reloading accessible for newbies. I know when I first started I watched a lot of similar videos on loading .38 Special from guys like FortuneCookie45LC who also has some 327 videos.
Great video. Only one shortcoming, could not see the adjudtments you made to the top portion of the die. It was not shown on the video and would have been a great clarifier to newbies to handloading. Maybe you can make a video of the last step ( seating and crimping the bullet) adjustments fpr viewers? Hopefully it will not take you 6 hours. Thank you for posting this video. James
I weigh a charge, take a case from the block (primer up position), charge the case, and seat a bullet (all the way). Then the round goes back into the loading block. Crimp is a separate step. I do not need to use a flashlight because I am charging with a weighed charge, and double charging is impossible.
I just finished reloading a handful of .327 FM, .32 H&R, .32 long and .32 short with the Hornady dies. They work well for everything except for the shorts. The expander bottoms out before it can flair the case. I hear the .32ACP dies will work.
Great video! I haven't been reloading long, but I started putting a piece of masking tape (or any proper label) on my box and write on that. Then it is really easy to change the label if I change the load on the next go-around.
@@HughesEnterprises But as you said , "....if it sits for a year...." masking tape especially can come off, as it is not made to stick for long. Labels work good, and in your case, if you wanted to change the info you could put a label over the sharpie. Ammo boxes are not that expensive.....buy in bulk.
Everything could be purchased at any well stocked gun store. Cabelas, Graf and Sons, Powder Valley, Midwayusa, Brownells, etc all carry all of the equipment and supplies. All can be purchased online and shipped to your house. Primers and powder are one thing you will want to find locally so you don’t have to pay hazmat shipping fees, unless someone’s running a sale or you’re buying in bulk then just buy online.
Great how to video on single stage presses. Do yourself a favor though and get and use a primer tube. Oils from your fingers can contaminate the primers in time and mis-fires in defensive ammo could cost your life.
MrZipperhead16 Thanks for the advice, but I've never had much luck getting the primer tubes running smoothly. I also rotate my carry ammo batches out and shoot it monthly for practice. Thanks for watching!
MrZipperhead16 I'm reloading over 20 already. Slow and methodical is what I do. I enjoy reloading as much as shooting so taking longer on a single stage is fine with me.
Another excellent video by Hughes Enterprises on the .327. Have you ever experimented with making the quietest load for .32 S&W? Is it possible to make such a load for plinking, that is so quiet that you won't need to wear ear protection?
I have reloaded pipsqueak/mousefart loads but haven’t tried any yet in the .32. I have in the .38 SPL. The trouble you can run into is that there is a point around 500 fps with lead bullets that the friction with the barrel and very low pressure can stop the bullet in the barrel and cause an obstruction/squib even if a few others made it out just fine. I have seen this happen when I loaded .38SPL down to 500 fps with 125gr bullets. Regular safe low velocity loads at 6-700 fps are about as loud as standard pressure .22lr. It would be up to you to decide whether that is too loud for you without ear-pro. The quietest and safest load you can make is loading a hot glue or beeswax bullet with just a primer and no powder. These are about as loud as a cap gun and have decent accuracy at 25 feet. The hot glue bullets can be reused many times if you stop them with something soft.
Well done - again! :) I admit to a bit of surprise at the bullet dia. of .312" Paul Harrell style meat target is GREAT, glad to hear your going to use similar :) (yeah, I'm a fan) LOL Onward to #5 !!!
LoL , I looked today ( April 10th 2021) online for 327 & 32 H&R magnum ammo , neither available anywhere and advertised price was around $75.00 box of 50 rounds,WOW ! ! !
I used lyman and hornady data, loaded 100 each 85gr xtp and 100 gr xtp. Gun = Ruger LCR .327 FM 100 gr xtp Powder AA9 12.7 gr Win spm primer 1.465 OAL I have some Hodgden small pistol powder on the way, kinda hard to find. I find the AA9 powder attracts too much static and gets stuck in the powder through die. I had to load them directly into the brass with funnel. I'll let you know how they chrono.
Yeah there are some powders that tend to do that. Best velocities seem to come from the AA#9 but like you mentioned not the easiest to work with. My results with H110 were not that great in a 3” barrel. 100gr barely broke 1,200 FPS with a huge muzzle flash. Haven’t tried 2400 yet. Another to try would be ‘lil gun or power pistol. I’m out of both.
If starting out, about how much does a reloading setup cost for .327 including all of the equipment and scale, etc.? And how much does it cost to reload a box of 50 .327s? Thanks!
Bare minimum for a press and dies, and scale, will be around $200. Today primers are a lot more expensive. $0.15 a primer, $0.03 for powder, $0.30 for a premium bullet. So around $0.50 a round. Sub in a cast bullet and it's $0.30 a round. Box of 50 $15-25
Never cleaned a primer pocket before. Totally unnecessary. If the primer seats nicely a hair below flush and the case is dry, it’s good to go. Priming compound doesn’t care if it’s dirty. Now if I was going to wet tumble, absolutely decap them for no other reason than the steel pin media will lodge in the flash hole/primer and break your decapping pin when you resize. The pins can also halfway clean the primer pocket too if you’re into that.
mike wells I’m almost exclusively shooting Titegroup in the .327 (and most everything else pistol wise) now. Like you mentioned, AA#9 for top end velocities. Didn’t see any real benefit to the CFE pistol. 2400 for warm 44 specials and H110 for full House 44 magnums.
Hughes Enterprises I like 2400 and h110 as well. They will push my chrono harder but I’m really starting to gravitate to 9 in all my magnums. I load for 357,327 44 and 45 colt. The 9 seems to have less flash and boom as well as great groups. I will say though watching an h110 fireball blow out of a 4 inch Blackhawk is still a good time. I also love 2400 in 45 colt with a Speer deep curl. It wakes that round up
It’s the Hornady Lock n Load powder measure. Really depends on the powder and how full the hopper is. Lowest weight I ever throw is 1.5 grains of TiteGroup. With the hopper half full or more, no problem throwing that hundreds of times. Get down to an inch of powder, and it gets less accurate. +/-.2 grains. Long stick rifle powders like 4831 get crunchy, so I throw them light and trickle the rest. I’ve loaded many tens of thousands of rounds with it and it works well enough for me.
@@HughesEnterprises thanks for the info. I might need to get one. Also, I didn't think about how full the hopper is affecting the accuracy of a low grain charge. Thx!
*_I'll buy a .327 revolver when a 10 round DA becomes available, and there's no reason it shouldn't be since Taurus has successfully produced 8rd .357 mag revolvers. The .327 is sufficiently smaller to fit 10 where 8 .357s fit._*
Every once and awhile I send S&W an email telling them to make a 10 shot N frame in 327. 3.5” barrel scandium frame steel cylinder, big dot adjustable night sights. They don’t know people want it unless they get told!
I know of lots of .313-.314 Keith styles in the 115-125gr range but none are hollowpoints. We’re pretty much limited to the Hornady XTP’s or if you stocked up 10 years ago there used to be 115gr and 100gr Speer gold dots designed for 327 velocities. I recently found some factory 115gr gold dot loaded ammo (which has been discontinued for at least 5 years now) at a small shop so there’s a chance the gold dot component bullets are out there too.
I'm looking at bullets in .312 dia. and see the 50gr. Lehigh "cavitator". www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/78463 what would be your guesstamation on fps if this bullet was loaded for hot .327mag? thanks. glad I found this video.
Tough to say but a stout charge of H110 would probably get it over 2,000 FPS in a 6” revolver. Maybe 2,600 from a 20” rifle. Accurate #9 might be able to push it to the 1,800 range from a 3-4” barrel but you’re talking some smoking pressures too. Would punch straight through 3A body armor at that velocity. Probably wouldn’t be my first choice for bullet weight but it certainly has potential in some applications
