This is how you repaired the clutch on a snapper with one clutch brake pedal. Don't forget to subscribe, to watch all my videos. If you need any help email me at jimsfixitshop@gmail.com or jandrwoodworking2@gmail.com thanks Jim
Hi Jim, I also have the 1 pedal mower. This thing goes through friction discs every 2 years and I'm fed up with it. I'm going to do your mod as soon as I get some time or when this current friction disc fails, whichever comes first! Thanks so much for your help with this built-to-make-Snappper-rich to drive replacement parts sales (engineering failure). I dream of the time when I had the old 33 in. (2 pedal) Snapper and I only replaced that friction disc once in a decade! I hope this mod will do that for this newer snapper.
i just did this mod and it works great i did not have to redrill holes in the rubber wheel flange i used what was there and it works great macking tape trick is awesome
Ok i watched the videos the "yoke" plate on my mower has minimal wear so i think thats ok the sping for yoke tension i moved up on top and down on bottom for max tourqe. I guess now ill check the friction plate clearance to see if i have room to move it down as per ur specs on the video. I also have side to side play on the rear axle but the bushings in and out feel tight do you have a video to reduce side play in the rear. My model is 28086s what can u tell me by that? Thanks for the help
Great Mod! This mod is easily reversible if you change your mind about it (Simply remove the four bolts/nuts that you installed and re-install the thrust-washer and drive disc plate). I have often wondered if re-placing the entire thing (7053114 "kit") would sort out the soft-start reliability issue - this is a design that either works great on your machine or works poorly (mine fell into that latter category); Anyway, I went up to hardware store and came out with: 1/4-20 (half-inch) phillips stainless-steel flat-head machine screws, 1/4-20 stainless-steel 'nylock' nuts, fresh 1/4-inch drill bit, and a non-piloted chamfer bit (the most expensive thing that I bought); I followed Jim's excellent "index-drilling masking-tape paper template" method carefully and slowly; and, a twist, I drilled this with a corded chuck-drill (yes) - just taking my time and oiling the bits and chamfer as I went along; after I drilled my first hole, I inserted one snug 1/4-20 bolt and nut to lock everything in place; did all five holes; all of it went perfectly; my chamfers came out in two flavors: perfect or ugly; so I had a couple of ugly chamfers - but they still did a great great job; I did a trial-fit on the mower to check for interference to the brake pad (wiggle that brake bad to worst-case position during this test) and no interference; so bolted it all together; I like the end result; and yes, my wife made a short video of my first wheelie; I did the wheelies on purpose so that I can learn the new behaviour of the mower in each gear; I can start-out in 1st or 5th gear now and no slipping; I do miss the soft-start, but I will not miss its poor reliability; One day I would like a semi-Ag tire for the turf and a posit-traction for this beast. Good Mod! I endorse it; it is easily reversible if you change your mind; Worst-case is you bugger this up and the entire soft-start clutch assembly is now 7053114yp - about $60.00 - but you would have to make some big mistakes to mess one up to where this would be irreversible; I used some blue thread-lock on the 1/4-20 SS machine screws; if I thought this was permanent forever mod I would hit it with red threadlock; hats-off to Jim for all the perfect little tips that made this possible; but keep in mind, you CAN do this with a hand-held corded drill - just clamp it down somehow or you may get hurt - the materials are fairly soft and easy to drill with a good bit; use some oil on it as you go along and work slowly to keep things cool.
SmooveBee1 Hi it's Jim If for some reason you don't like your solid clutch watch Videos number 70. 96. and 97 they will explain to you how the clutch works and how you can adjusted it to grab better without bolting the clutch disk solid. Thanks Jim
I mowed with it today; and I plan to build another solid clutch with parts that i have ordered - so that I have a spare; I am very happy with the outcome; and the clutch is very predictable really; I would think if anyone was a little anxious about the clutch, they could add water to the front tires(?) or some plate-weight to the front - assuming they were running a bagger on slopes; I am going to adjust my 'Speed Adjustment Latch Assembly' (R/N/1/2/3/4/5) next - it needs to move slightly rear-ward to solve my 'won't stay in reverse' issue; there is some play in the where the 'Shift Handle' joins the 'Shift Handle Arm (shaft)' due to some slop in the clevis/cotter goes thru the arm (shaft); I confirmed that the yoke has plenty of room in it to go more deep into reverse and another visual check on the Speed Adjustment Latch Assembly'; for all I know it came from the factory like that; but it looks easy: two bolts on the speed adjustment latch plate; thanks so much for the help Jim!
Jim, love your videos. They have been my guide for many repairs to my snapper over the last several years. I'm thinking about doing this clutch mod. My question is why didn't you use the 5 existing holes in your disk? Thanks.
Well you could use the holes that are there if you use bolts the same size if you use a quarter inch bolt through that larger hole to disk will Chuck back and forth and sheer off the bolts. Jim
I'm going to try to put on a video tomorrow night addressing this issue this is not an isolated problem I've been asked several times about this issue and I think it should be addressed with a video so you can see the problem rather than me just trying to tell you about it. it would help to have a little more information on your machine, Did you just buy it, Have you had it for a long time, Have you done any other adjustments besides installing a new clutch disc, And if you could email me direct with some pictures and a phone number it would help immensely. my email address is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com or jandrwoodworking2@gmail.com And as always work safe and have fun will talk to you soon, Jim
i would like to talk with you about snappers i have 3 of them and i have an idea id like to share with you your vids a great you got me interested in a mower id never thought about. im retired now so it give me something to tinker on
Hi Jim, thanks for helping me keep my 2010 Snapper 33” to “cut another day”. I have one question, in the beginning of the video you say to use 5/16 drill bit and bolts but at the end you say to use a 1/4 drill bit and bolts. My takeaway is to indeed use the 5/16?
Can you move the holes closer to the hub so you don’t have to countersink the heads to clear the brake? When you made the alignment marks why do you put them between 2 existing bolt holes instead of moving them further away so as not to stress the existing holes?
That particular video only has one part but all my videos are numbered and they correspond with the directories that you can download off of video number 315 out of the description section. Jim
Hey jim im new to the snapper world but i have a single brake model with the "pad" thing that rides inside the clutch for brakes. My question is i have what looks to be a new clutch because the rubber looks good and the green round piece inside look new but my clutch has quite a bit of play in it still what does what your explaning in this video do? My mower also strugles go up hill on my yard. I moved the springs out and still no difference. Will this mod help it? Also the shifter plate which pulls up the roller and clutch assembly have minimal wear but i will try to find a new one.
Brad 31 Hi Brad. before you buy any parts subscribe to my channel and watch video number 70, 96, and 97. To give you a better idea on how this works then get back with me and we'll figure out your issue. Thanks Jim
I'd probably just weld the friction disk cover to the clutch rubber wheel thing with a few spot welds and not even take anything apart. think that would work
CIA Assassin Hi it's Jim when you bolt your clutch disk solid to your clutch assembly it has to be perfectly centered that's why I use masking tape to center the clutch disc onto the clutch assembly before I drill it you would have to do the same thing before you weld it if you don't it will shake so violently you won't be able to drive the unit. If you're having trouble with the clutch slipping I would suggest first try tightening the springs let me know if you need any further help or you can email me at. jimsfixitshop@gmail.com and I'll be more than happy to help you out. thanks Jim
southeasternpm I answered your email in the way of a video check it out I explain a lot of different emails and yours also. Thanks for your questions and comments and I hope you're subscribed Jim
question about a worn drive plate, my last clutch only lasted 2 years, I noticed drive plate looking pretty rough, could I sand it smooth to keep next clutch from wearing so quickly , thanks
Kevin Fjrrider Your clutch disk wearing out in two years may not be the result of a wavy drive disk it could be because your yolk spring is not tight enough watch video number 70 and tighten the spring as tight as you can get it and see if that helps. Jim
MrPieceFull If you would like to talk on the phone, send me your phone number to my email address do not put it in this comment section where everyone can see it send it to my email and it is secure, it is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com I will return your call as soon as I can thanks again Jim And don’t forget to send me your name.
Jim, Joe here. I watched your vids on the drive disc replacement and ordered the whole soft start kit. Don’t need it. Well it looks like my 33114S has one of the last old drive systems (motor code of 1982). I just ordered the disc only to replace the old one. My mower only had three of the 5/16 bolts installed. Do I need all five bolts, as it looks like three was working. Thanks
Muttbike65 If three was working I don’t see why you can’t just go back to that if you have trouble with it coming loose or Breaking off the three bolts then go to five. Jim
If i do this to my Snapper will it do wheelies if i let the brake out in 5th gear from a stop? I think mine is a 1998 based on the serial numbers stamped on the 12HP I/C Briggs/Stratton engine. Also being its a fully locked clutch does it wear out the actual drive train and cause chains to break? Thanks in advance
Richard E Well I’m not sure about fifth gear but if you let it out too fast in first or second with a bagger on it, it Will pop wheelies and it’s possible that you could break the chains, that’s why I always try to adjust the yoke spring first and if the clutch is worn out or the yoke that will cause you problems. Let me know what you think. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 thanks for the advise, i will be careful once i get the new clutch in the mail, i just want a more bullet proof reliable setup and was entirely serious with doing wheelies haha
20mcarroll02 Hi it's Jim If you can find a old solid clutch assembly you can put it on a newer machine as long as you have two paddles, i'm not sure if the little break arm will fit on a older assembly or not. I would have to see the old assembly to see what it looks like and if it would fit. Thanks Jim
Kathy Norris Hi Kathy it’s Jim, do you have someone to help you work on this machine or are you going to do it yourself, I need to know a few things about your machine is there anyway you can send me some pictures of it you can send them to my email address will be easier it is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com To fix the brakes you’re going to have to lift the machine up and stand it on the rear bumpers can you physically do that, to troubleshoot why it will not shut off I can send you directions on how to check it are you very mechanically inclined these questions will help me know how to instruct you on what to do. Jim
Let's Kill Sum Time Well it all depends on how you let the clutch out but the early machines all had solid clutches and they built them that way for years it was in the early 70s or late 60s when they switched I believe to the soft start clutches. Jim
Let's Kill Sum Time Well thanks for the question if you have any others just let me know and I hope your subscriber I need your help with that issue. Jim
Let's Kill Sum Time Well I’m glad to hear your subscriber, and let me know how that conversion works out because I am sure there’s a lot of guys out there that would like to see and hear what you’ve done. Jim
Jim, wouldn't clutch replacement be easier if we used the 5 5/16" holes already drilled in the clutch disk? That way, the next time you have to replace the clutch disk, there will be no drilling required. What do you think?
Greg Vanek It's just easier for a lot of people to just drill new holes then try to match drill holes that are already there, if you think you can match drill the holes and get them to line up it would be easier, and you should do it that way. Thanks Jim
I have another problem my SNAPPER DRIVE MOWER 30” MODEL: 30128BE SER: 15067559 when I'm looking for parts I don't find my number for the clach nor the belt Is this fits my: www.ebay.com/itm/Stens-240-975-Drive-Disk-Kit-w-Liner-Replacement-for-Snapper-7600135YP/272293207247 what is the belt size? Thank you Isaac Sasson
loom fanatic In doing this it will give you a solid clutch instead of a soft start clutch if your clutch is not grabbing and you tried everything you can to adjust it like I have I just bolt them solid Like the old ones were. Thanks Jim
maybe someone can help me out with a problem. on my snapper, I changed my clutch. while tightening the clutch down, I used some channel locks to hold the axle from spinning. I put the mower down to give it a test run. with the mower in neutral and brake off, it will not roll. it feels like it's in gear but the shifter is in neutral. please help me out. I love my snapper
Joseph hi this is Jim at Jim's Fix-It shop I have had this problem from two or three other people and I would like to try and make a video on it the issue I think the problem you're having is when you replaced your drive clutch at some point when the old one was wearing down in diameter someone moved the drive disk that's mounted to the bottom of your engine down so it would have more contact to the smaller clutch disc, then when a new clutch disc is installed the diameter is too large and it is always in contact with the drive disk which will lock up the drivetrain you'll have to stand your machine up with the shifter in neutral and try to slide a shim between the drive disk and a clutch disc they recommend about 1/32" clearance between the two. If you need any further assistance or instructions please contact me at jimsfixitshop@gmail.com some pictures are always useful in solving these issues and/or send me your phone number and I'll call you to try and help you solve these problems. thanks for your interest and comments and if you haven't already subscribed please do I have more videos to come, Jim
Thanks Jim, I did some investigating and found that I had rushed my work and when I put the nut on to tighten the clutch, I accidentally tightened it against the brake causing the clutch to lock up because the brake shoe was digging into the clutch itself. And because of my impatience, I have now seized my 9hp Briggs and Stratton engine. It isn't low on oil, but I have been meaning to change it. So i will change the oil for sure. Any other helpful tips of freeing up my engine would be appreciated. Thanks again Jim. Keep up the good work. You're very helpful
Joseph Loup hi Joseph it's Jim I guess it all depends on what seized up in your engine you're going to have to tear the engine down to find out the real issue some problems are an easy fix and others are not so I did that myself once with a snowblower the engine was low on oil and my driveway has a hills in it on the way up one of the Hills the engine seized up my problem was a crank seized up in the aluminum block I was able to get it apart I polish the aluminum all of the crank Journal and bored the block out and installed a brass bushing I reassemble the engine and it runs fine and I'm still using it but for your issue you're going to have to disassemble the engine and see what the problem really is send me an email to jimsfixitshop@gmail.com and let me know what you find out I may be able to help you with your rebuild thanks for your interest and comments and don't forget to subscribe Weather Channel if you haven't already talk to you soon Jim
How about welding the damn things together? Edit: Eh...scratch that idea. If you used tape to center the outer disc, how would you get it out? Bottom line, you'd need some other method of centering the outer disc over the inner one. Edit #2: OK...on further reflection, why bother to remove the tape? Once the disc is welded, there's no need for the gap or the friction material...
Jr McDonald Hi it's Jim, Welding it would be quicker and probably easier until you get to the point where you need to change your clutch because the rubber is were out. Thanks Jim
Well, the difference being that, instead of buying just the 'driven disc' (the piece with the rubber on the rim), you'd be buying that + the 'driven disc hub'. From PartsTree, that means spending another $22. In another video, you show what I believe you said was a solid assembly from an older Snapper. Is it not possible to buy a solid assembly for the newer machines? Seems as if this would solve more issues than it might potentially create.
Jr McDonald Hi it's Jim The part that you should be replacing is your clutch disc that's the disc with the rubber on the outside of it and the brake material on the inside The part that the clutch disc bolts to is your clutch disc assembly you should never have to replace that, your drive disc is the disc that is bolted to the bottom of your engine on your crankshaft. Your question about the solid assembly for the clutch disc, It is no longer available because of safety issues, even if you could buy one it wouldn't work on a newer machine because there's no place for the break arm to fit inside of it. If you're having issues with your clutch and it's not working properly there are other things you should try first before bolting the clutch solid. Watching video number 70 will help you out with some of your issues. Let me know if you need any help with your clutch. Talk to you later Jim
MrPieceFull If you have the small break arm that goes inside of your clutch disk assembly you have to reassess the bolt heads flush with the inside of the assembly so the breaker arm will clear, I drilled a 1/4 inch holes instead of using 5/16” it’s easier to counter sink for a 1/4” flat head bolt then it is for a 5/16” flat head bolt but you can use either one that you choose to. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 your vids are very good and a big help im in the process of rebuildind another snapper with a wagon with out a mowing deck i have a good engine the diff needs redone compleatly
