Thanks for your videos Jerry. I was a stage guitar tech in the 90's and after restoring some acoustics recently I discovered your videos and it has ignited my passion so I'm going to attempt building my own dreadnought. So thanks to you and for your tunes you play also.
Love the AVE mention!! I thought that I was the only one who appreciates his way of thinking!! If you're like myself, there are many things that a rubber glove takes the real feel of your work. I have no use for something that I have to modify to suit my need. I do see how having both can usually make some things as easy as possible. Very good review.
Jerry #1- You are right about the amps on tools the higher the amps the better, I used too sell tools Many years ago & I had too go to a 6- month training on tools. #2- for your Proxon you can cut a piece of lexan to whatever size you need & use the 2 screws on the bottom of the base to attach it, Also you can add some grip tape to the metal end so it wont be as slippery to hold. 3rd Both tools are really considered hobby tools if you want a truly professional rotary tool you have too buy a Foredom*** They have many models available but they are a bit expensive But they are wicked smooth operation. Thanks Jerry & God Bless
thx a lot for this detailed look at these rotary tools, I have very limited budget, I need to buy the right thing. I havent seen anyone on youtube who shares these details with so many years of experience using them, very valuable words.
The right competiter would be the Dremel 3000. I have both tools, Dremel 3000 and Proxxon IBS/E in 230V version. The Proxxon has a power of only 100W compared with 130W of the Dremel but, there is much more torque with the proxxon. If you want to polish (most in the middle range of the rpm) the dremel failed and stick a lot, the Proxxon shows much more pulling power. Both have there friends.
I agree with most if not all your review comments. On my bases after I get them flat I glue or 2side tape formica (you know, from countertops) to the bottom. You can spend as much time as you want to customize them (screw holes, adjustment knobs, etc.) As far as carving and inlay work, other than a blade, I use a miniature router plane (or planes, sometimes I custom design one for a particular purpose) I find I have a lot more control with a non motorized router plane than a router or dremel type tool. If I need to grind out a bunch of wood, I got lucky and found an old dentist drill. Certain rotary engravers can also work. Sometimes it just comes down to what you can find and what you're willing to spend (time or money) to get the job done. Keep up the videos, I enjoy.
For the Proxxon router-base, use self adhesive HDPE or UHMW poly tape. Woodworkers use it on machine fences. Very slick and non marring. That’s probably what you made your other base from, only it comes thinner with adhesive on it.
Jerry you have really made me laugh with your comparison test, the phrase that buckled me was, you really know you can tell you've got something in your hands when your holding on to this, lol, you were so serious when delivering your verdict, i haven't laughed this much in a very long time, Great fun, thank you so much. Gonna watch this again now, brilliant fun video. Peace and Love from Bonny Scotland.
Hello Mr. Rosa, I'm 66 and bought a USA Telecaster 2 years ago to get me started learning how to play guitar. Your videos are excellent and the quality of your work is outstanding, I love watching you work and enjoy the little workarounds you come up with to solve simple problems, I'm a Telecaster man, I love the sound of a Tele but listening to you and your friends playing the mandolin spurs me on to try and get better. I bought a well known brand, a copy of the Dremel and the chuck fell apart in a couple of months so I replaced it and started to use the copy again but 2 months later the cooling fan disintergrated. That was me done with copies of anything, I bit the bullet and bought a Dremel 4000, three times the price of the copy and I'm in heaven with it, it's reliable and very good quality (made in Mexcico I think). To me a dremel is a Dremel, all the rest are simply Dremel copies. Thanks again for the excellent videos you produce, all the best to you and your love ones, and kindest regards, Pete.
Hi Gerry, my jigsaw had a knack for sometimes scratching kitchen worktops with it`s base as I cut out for sinks or hob cookers, I use both Gaffa & Masking tape (depending on what is to hand at the time), but, I run an iron over them, this softens the adhesive & increases the `tack` or grip on both, both wear eventually but, no more scratches
I've been using a B&D RTX for over 20 years, and I never had an issue once. I've routed out several pickup and tremolo cavities, and use it all time time for my custom automotive wiring installs. Heck, I even used it to polish a whole motorcycle once. My RTX has been used and abused with grinding, cutting, sanding, wire brushing, polishing, routing, and all on various materials like different metals, plastic, wood, and ceramic. I also have a Dremel 4000 and a cordless Hyper Tough and have used several other brands as well. Bottom line, it's all about preference and I prefer the B&D because of the lever lock (not push button), and it works better with my crippled CP hands. As long as it gets the job done, what difference does it really make of which brand, style, or price of the rotary tool you use. I guess people have nothing better to do, than to nit pick and get their panties in a bunch, because you're not using their favorite brand. Oh well!
Brungraber: We are not nitpicking, we are discussing. At one point B&D made some of the best tools. Then one day, they were bought out by someone who milkt their name and made shitty tools. This happens all the time in the business world (B&D, Bushnell, and MANY others)--the plan is to make cheaply, a bundle of crap, slap on the high quality reputation name and sell for high prices. It's cheating the unwary customer. It happened to me with Bushnell binoculars about 50 years ago. I had bought a pair and they were excellent. then I lost them. I bought a new pair but in the mean time the company was bought by one of those "milkers" and the new pair I got was crap. Again, just like a tool with a motor, "weigh" any itme you are buying--heavier usually means better quality. A friend of mine in the Philippines got hipnotized by a "gold" watch being sold by a street hawker. He, being Philippino, should have known better but he was "hypnotized" by it. The hawker wanted 500 pesos for it (about 12$ at that time). Me, being a foreigner but being street-wise, knew without ever touching it, that you could get that watch from this very hawker for a third of that, picked it up and was horrified at it's feather weight! This thing wasn't worth a dollar in my view. Well we finally got it for about 2$ (the hawker was most likely laughing in his jacket at the suckers who bought it) and I thimk it lasted a few days. Anyway, the point is, is that there are plenty of good reasons for discussing this. Don't nit pick with this
Proxxon also has another series which specifically designed to be handheld like a pen. For example the Micromot 230/E. The one you have is meant to be held on the body or in one of their bases. I‘m going to get the rechargeable battery version of yours since I already have two other machines from the same series with two batteries. The polisher and the band-sander. I‘m also getting the router-base and will be using the 3M blue masking tape to prevent scratching delicate surfaces. I‘m probably going to glue a neodymium magnet to each side so I can stick the whole thing to a vertical metal surface when necessary. Thanks for the video. I will take a good look at the Dremel product range when shopping around! One last tip: If I were you I wouldn’t use the fomaica surface to sand the base. I‘d use a sheet of 10mm glass which is guaranteed to be much flatter.
I have a takemine acoustic electric I bought in 2004 I really struggle with bar cords Always have I use elixir strings It’s sounds awesome If always wondered if a fret job And custom work would help with the lightest action I could get without vibration This guitar plays very well without issues I got it at guitar center Any suggestions?
I have the Dremel 8220 with a 12v lithium battery, which works great for what I've used it for. Not sure the RPMs but it's got variable speed which is very handy.
Hay Jerry i know you can repare cases I have my dad’s guitar and the storage compartment has come apart the half that has the lid connected how would you suggest to fix it ty arland
I have fixed these. It's important to lift the soft cloth that covers the broken parts. You will have to glue the cloth back later so don't tear it up. Lift up the cloth so you can see what broke. Glue and clamps can work if the glue let loose. (Jerry glues and clamps a lot of stuff, so keep watching his videos) On most cases you can use very small (brad) nails too. If some parts broke into pieces and you can't glue them back, you will have to make a wooden piece to replace them and glue it in place. Check out Jerry's video on case restoring to see how to work with the cloth to put it back in. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Njo-Q1qmoXQ.html
I'd be really curious to see if you liked the Dremel Forti-Flex better than the 4000, if you ever have a chance to try it, since it's got 2.5A to work with in addition to the pen-shaped hand tool. I know you said you didn't like the flex shaft attachment for the 4000, but I've heard good things about the Forti-Flex.
I looked in one of my motor reference books, and in general, DC motors are 30% more efficient than AC motors. This is due to a secondary magnetic field being generated by the permanent magnets in the DC motor, which is not present in the copper winding in the AC motor. Without a direct torque measurement at the tool chuck, it would be difficult to make any claim as to which on is "better" based strictly upon the rated maximum electrical amperage of the tool.
And have constant power in low rpm, while dreemel would jammed in low rpm... that MUST HAVE!! in detailed work... lowest rpm but not getting easily jammed....
I say go with a plastic coating. For me the amps and top speed aren’t that critical since I rarely use these tools at full bore-low noise is what I want-but once you mentioned the handling you had me convinced. Nobody should have to use that silly collet tool when a wrench is so much easier, and that terrible grip would be the deal breaker for me. Thanks!
Yes, they do still make the 4000. I have 2 3000's at work and one at home, along with several of the older models I don't remember the numbers on. I've used Dremels for decades, and will most likely stick to them. The Proxxon looks nice, sounds good, but doesn't sell me on usability. Guess I'm a creature of habit, and I hold it like a pen, too. Between that and router base use, that's 95% of what I do with a rotary tool. Good review, covers a lot of the things we in the instrument world use these things for.
Thanks for doing this Jerry. I was just about to replace my very ancient (1975?) Dremel, and was wondering about the difference. I don't want to spring for a Foredam unless I have to.
Hey Jerry! thanks for the info, as for the base, I think you could polish it to 2000 grit and some paste wax with steel wool-like in olden days! You should have no worries. And if the base is steel and you truly want it bigger, weld new metal to it.
The laminate , counter top stuff, or the HDME are probably better , but I would just use what I have which is thin Perspex . Think 1/16 th. Drill holes to access the screws, and contact adhesive it in place. I really Love your repair work. Please don't pay any attention to the Negative comments.. God Bless you, from Glenn in Australia.
Jerry, to make you Proxon base larger, you could just make a rectangular add on piece, out of aluminum or wood, to attach to the side where the sliding pins stick out.
i saw the same comparison you mentioned. I've used a shaft drive for at least 30, years. It had been my grandfather's the motor by Johnson (circa 1960) finally burned out, so i bought a Proxxon based upon Crimson's review. I fully agree with your discontent, too - for precisely the same reasons. I have a new-ish Dermel 4000 which works well, but I'm gonna cross my fingers and replace that motor from Wisconsin with one made in China. Guess maybe I'm too old to adapt? I really like my Dremel-made 90 on the shaft drive for had held work. Great comparison, though.
Jerry, they make HDPE tape that could be used for your new metal base. You’ll likely have to mill a bit more off of the guide jig you built though. You could also just add a piece of HDPE to the base (read Walmart cutting board) and make it any size or shape you want, but again, that would mean re milling a new jig to fit the new base plate size and thickness.
Jerry, just mt two cents. The issue you had with the bit slipping was the chuck, not the motor. I don’t know anything about the Proxxon, but if it had a chuck accessory like the Drexel the same issue would exist. Someone mentioned runout. IMHO not an issue in a hand held tool, but definitely if the tool is in a rigid device like a CNC machine or drill press. Thanks for the review.
I have a Dremel 3000 with 1.2amps with a max rpm of 32,000, I've had it for years and has never failed me; and as the saying goes, if it ain't broke.......
Two real good tests for rotary tools are “run out” and torque per RPM. I once saw a spreadsheet comparing all the popular rotary tools and the higher end Drexel tools like the 3000 & 4000 simply smoked all the competitors in run-out and torque....up to 2x the price. Past that price range the micro die grinders like a tool & die maker might own smoked the Dremel tools.....but those die grinders are @ $400-500.
Hi, I want to let you know I enjoyed your video the most with regards to your clear and loud explaining. No long winded thing. My suggestion for you to add to you aluminium proxxon router base is to use, 3M TEFLON TAPE, which has super strong sticky backing and supper tuff slippery smooth property of the tape. This might server your needs. I have used this tape in my work a lot where two metal sliding surfaces is required and no oil or grease is allowed for lubrication. Most microprocessor manufacturing equipments used it. It is opaque grey colour and comes in the form similar to electrical insulation tape. Your router base will not scratch the delicate things you do. Hope this help. Best regards K C Ung. Australia.
Thank you for sharing your upfront very honest video. "I like it". You said you have used the Dremel 4000 every day for the past 15 years. And it still works great. That is good enough for me. But I truly know you are being honest about it. If you check back through past videos. I ask you what the Name and Model Number of Dremel was. I never gave it a thought about the Amps. Over the years. I just buy the cheapest or what's on sale, lol. Great video. Very educational. Thumbs up always to you and your videos Jerry. Have a Blessed Week.
I hope this is of help, Teflon tape(not the plumper type) would work for a slick, not scratch surface to put on that router base. It is like those pads or feet of a computer mouse. An example can be found on Amazon found as "CS Hyde Conformable PTFE Tape With Silicone Adhesive"
One last thing, here. The outside ring that you're holding onto in your pencil grip unscrews. I don't know if yours does this, it being that old, but when you unscrew it, the hole in that fits over the outside of the chuck, and can be used instead of the wrench. It's handy to use, especially when you lose or just can't locate the wrench. I've gotten to where it's my first go to whenever I change bits. Check it out, it yours doesn't, I'll bet you can order one from Dremel. It's a very useful thing that they thought up. ETA: Okay, TWO last things. On your router base, check into the UHMW plastic that is adhesive backed. It's about 1/32" thick, and is great for fences, jigs, anywhere you need to have a slick surface that won't scratch anything. Woodcraft, among other places, have it. It goes a long way, too.
I just saw a video of a team changing the wheels on a rail car truck, and when they remounted the truck to the car they put in a disk of yellow UHMW plastic as a thrust washer.
@@danmick8645 That stuff is really interesting. I can't for the life of me figure out how they get the adhesive backing to stick to it. No glue I know of sticks to it, you have to use mechanical fasteners on it. But they have that adhesive backing that sticks like crazy to it. I love the stuff, I use it on all kinds of jigs and fixtures, even on the fence on my table saw. A slab of it makes for a really great gluing table, because again, no glue sticks to it. It's not cheap, but it is useful as all get out.
I've been a Dremel user for many years. When my previous one got to the point where the runout was way too much I bought a 4000. Alas this one has not lived up to my experience with the older one. It says my 4000 was made in Mexico and I don't know if they have multiple manufacturing plants which might impact quality. The current one has an intermittent on/off switch, the speed control is very erratic, and it gets very hot after about ten minutes. I'll confess I'd be reluctant to risk another Dremel purchase but I'll worry about it when the time comes. Thanks for a great review and comparison, Jerry. Cheers, John
The Dremel is an AC motor. Proxxon uses a DC motor and converts AC to DC in the tool. You can't go by Amp ratings since you're comparing an AC tool to a DC tool. I'm not sure there's an easy way to make a 1:1 comparison based on maximum amperage draw alone. The DC motor is one of the reasons the Proxxon is so much quieter than the Dremel. Where you should see a real difference is at lower RPM where motor torque on the DC motor should be greater than the on the AC motor at the same speed. If you look at torque curves on DC electric motors, they need very little voltage to reach maximum torque. As an example, I have some custom built 12 volt DC motors and the torque goes up to maximum at 3 volts and is flat to 12 volts.
Mr. Rosa, Good video thanks for the comparison. On a side note whatever happened with your 3D printer from episode 268. I was looking forward to seeing what you were able to do with it. Thanks again, John.
Unfortunately, your conclusion is not credible, because you obviously already decided in advance that you like the Dremel better. Amps are not the right data, but the power, which is in Watts, with the Proxon having the same power at 5,000 or 20,000 revolutions, while the Dremel reaches its maximum power only at the highest revolutions. Last but not least, the Proxon rotates at 20,000 revolutions even under load, while with the Dremel the revolutions drop from 30,000 to 10,000 under load, which I noticed in practice when I was drilling printed circuits, my Dremel only lasted about a year. And last but not least, it is necessary to choose another Proxon, say Micromot 230E, as a pen.
I have a tendency to buy the more expensive, higher-powered tools anyway, and I have been ridiculed for paying extra when the less expensive tool does the same thing. In a sense, yes. I have had problems with tool slippage in the Dremel chucks and one of the worst was the collet chuck. No matter how tight I thought I had it, it still slipped. On that same Dremel, and I don't remember what model it was, there was a serious vibration at the working end of the tool. It was like holding Cicada in your hand while it was making its' ratchety noise. That tool is long gone, to say the least. Subsequent Dremels have been fine. The other, I think, was just a lemon that sneaked through quality control. Good eval on your part I believe!
not even halfway through the video and this was the only internet research I needed to decide to buy the 4000. Unfortunately I spent 30 minutes with GPT / other youtubers / crap all over the place before I got here. Thanks so much.
Mr. Rosa I am a big Dremel fan, I own 5 of them set up for different job applications. I've had 2 proxxon tools that in my estimation were just junk, they didn't last very long and ended up in the trash bin. I'm a wood worker and a carver and have a lot of dremel tools but I will never buy a dremel cordless again the batteries are crap. sorry about the small rant. Love your work and videos. PS the music is great too Thanks Dan
@@RosaStringWorks I have had cordless tools of several kinds and will not buy them again. However, my son has bought some nice tools that are cordless and they seem fine. However, he has extra battery packs for them which is one of the reasons I don't like cordless. You have a full battery which runs down in 15 min or so and then takes 24 hrs to recharge! How are you supposed to get any work done?
What You need is 1st a 25$ set Walmart, Aldi to learn with the tool. 2nd. a Dremel best all around tool. 3 rd proxxon professional quiet precise. As long as Your tool is not broken, the Quality of the bit You put in the chuck makes the biggest difference. Love my garage sale thing 8€. Somebody put a mini chuck on a 200W Black&Decker motor of a Sander. 8000 rpm fix. Flawless hobby work. Sure I could more appreciate the creator more than the Sellers.
I agree with your findings... love dremel , but i personally use a battery op milwaukee....i cant live without that one... I use it home building and mechanic work and much more.... The most valuable tool i have ever owned...not in price....in usage...
I know you have machinery you could use to cut a checkering like is on the grip of many pistol and rifles to make a grip on the Proxxon so you could hold it better@
I bought a Proxon and returned it. Like you found it's hard to hold and in my opinion way overpriced for what it is. I've an old Dremel Professional Model 398 that's still going strong that I replaced the front bearing and brushes in as I wore it out after 5 years or so and I bough a 4000 last year. I still prefer the smaller old Dremel for detail hand work and the bigger 4000 for routing. I've also a Makita 700W trim router for even bigger jobs - great for cutting out pickup and neck slots in solid body electric guitars.
Just a question, I dont know if I understood this correctly but I think you said you wanted a second rotary tool so you could leave the router attachment on one of them and not have to swap all the time? How come you didnt just get an actual router instead, you get pretty decent ones (corded or cordless) in the same price range, come in different sizes depending on what you need, have way more bits and possibilities, and quite frankly are much better at actual routing. Is there some other reason why a second multitool is better? Again, just curious. Genuine question.
In my opinion I think the Proxxon has more cutting power or low end torque, when i used my Dremel 3000 to cut a chain link it would stall when to much pressure was applied and the Proxxon seem to me stronger when I cut into metal. I have both and I prefer the Proxxon.
If you want close up precision and something to hold like a pen use the flexi-shaft you can buy for the proxxon . One of the reasons the Dremel is noisier is not just the power but the tolerances in the build especially in the bearings which leads to higher vibration . This is a factor if you use your rotary tool for extended periods, the noise over a long period of time could be wearing too . This might be part of the reason that some are saying that the Proxxon is more of a "professional" tool, it could be those that use their rotary tool for a large part of the working day. Maybe if you are doing work which demands short bursts of high speed and high power then the Dremel is for you . I have used earlier Dremel models and the vibration was the thing that bothered me most . If you are exposed to this for a long period of time you can end up with peripheral nerve damage in your finger tips.
Hi, I will say... the advice about amperage is fair and right. P+U*I , not to much to argue, is Ohm law :-)... the voltage (U) being the same for both... "I" the intensity in Amps make the P, (power in watts) bigger. About the noise, naturally a more powerful motor will produce more noise. But don't forget Jerry, your bearings in the Dremel are 15 years old (I assume you never change them) and I tell you from experience, a good bulk of a motor noise comes from the bearings. There are specialised machines we use in motors maintenance that by reading the noise frequency of a bearing tell you if needed to be exchanged... but I speak about big motors I work with. I'm a railway electrical engineer. But bearings are not responsible for the majority of the noise... the brushes are... and the Dremel is not a brushless motor. I assume you did not change them also. No need to touch it if its works.. . but I kindly advise you to check them. Are the small buttons with a screwdriver slot on the side of the body on your Dremel. The end semicircular face of the brush must be shiny and must not present any chip or flash marks on the sides. if you find them like this, buy a set from Dremel, polish little bit the rotor collector and exchange the brushes. About the key for the mandrel... here a tip: The rubberised end from the Dremel can be used as a key for the mandrel. You unscrew this and shifted litle bit up to the mandrel, you will se, it cannot be taken out unless you align with the slot of the mandrel. Is purposely done like this to be used as a key... give you more grip by the diameter and by the rubber surface. (the one that you dont take out to fix the flexible cord :-) because you don't like them.... me to, I don't like the flexible cord also) Other pleading in Dremel favour... But I will not say Proxxon is not a good tool. Proxxon are excellent also. I like the options that Proxxon offer, the base and etc... looks more profi in metal when the genuine Dremel are more "hobby"stile plastic let say. For the bottom of the Proxxon base, I use a piece of white vegetable cutting board. you buy this with few dollars and is a PPA. An relatively soft polypropylene not to damage your knife... and is food grade so nothing stick to it, Is basically teflon and is slide like a dream on all surfaces. All the best, nice job!
I have both the Dremel, the Proxxon and actually several others. I will throw in my two cents. They are different tools that have a similar form factor. The Proxxon is a lot better for attaching to things with the machined collar. It has much less runout than the Dremel. It has significantly superior cooling for extended time running it. I use the Proxxon with a tool holder (the sell them or you can make one) as a tool post grinder in my lathe. The drill press stand for it is really nice as well. Works really well for tiny drills. The Dremel has a lot more variety in the types of attachments you can get for it. I agree it is a lot more comfortable for hand held work and It does have noticeably more power. The oddball threaded neck makes it hard to make other holders. I would stick on some of the UHMW-PE tape to the router base. It is nice and slippery and really tough.
Yeah, the runout is what I was hoping he would show. I have the Proxxon and there is zero bit wiggle when it runs. I use it to drill tiny holes in PCB boards for electronics and the Dremel just would not do it.
UMHW subplate for the base. 1/4” would give you room for countersunk flathead screws to attach. Led flashlight to see the work. Inlays will be much easier.
Jerry, I think much of the increased noise, with the Dremel is the fact the Dremel has a plastic gear case and the Proxon has a metal gear case. I doubt the noise is your bearings. If it was, you would be getting dome bad cuts. I have an older and lesser model and it made terrible noise right out of the box.
One is ported and polished and head surfaced to increase CR for more power and the other has PTFE treated UHMW bearing surfaces to make it glide easier. Smokey Yunik would be proud. Win on Sunday, sell on Monday.
Contact cement some plastic laminate (Formica) onto that base. If you want to extend it, use some thin delrin and two sided tape. Don't think contact cement will hold delrin.
I have been thinking about getting a Dremel for a while now. I live in the UK so the products here will probably be different to yours. There is nothing that pleases me more than a balanced, reasonable, rational comparison of stuff with no ulterior motive (sponsorship) ...i now know what i want from a Dremel, and what i don't.....Peace Mr RSW.
Spray on Teflon might help that base. Never tried it, but just a thought. Did you ever change the bearings and clean the fan and commutator in that dremel? That can significantly reduce noise and vibration. I would agree that the dremel 3000 and 4000 are superior to the proxon, but have noticed that some (but not all) fairly inexpensive rotary tools are equal in quality and have more power than both the dremel and proxon. The drawback with these alternatives is it can be difficult to find spare parts and you have to check for compatibility of dremel accessories if you intend to use them.
Midnight Joker I have used spray Teflon in other applications and found it effective. I have also used powdered Teflon (on piano actions). You need something with a bit of “tooth” to hold it. The powdered Teflon might hold on to the back side of tape. First tape the base and then brush on Teflon?
@@philipallard8026 I am sure you are right about this. Also, having read the other comments, I'm pretty sure that the UHMW tape is the way to go. I looked into it for one of my projects, but its pretty expensive stuff. Thanks for the content
I don't know if this Dremel has it also but on my cordless Dremel 8200 you can unscrew the rubber ring where you hold the Dremel between thumb and index-finger. With that ring you can screw and unscrew the cutting-tool with two fingers. So you can litterly put a new cutting-tool out and in about 15 seconds. If you switch often tools then you know how much this function is worth. It's almost worth buying the Dremel above any other multitool. Also my 8200 is cordless witch i always prefer above one with a cord. I have two battery's, witch are bosch battery's with Dremel label. On one batery i can use the 8200 about 45 minutes. That's enough to charge the empty 2nd battery. You can always buy more battery's if needed.
I have a Dremel 4300 on order, due to supplier delays world wide they are very hard to come by here in Australia currently hopefully not much longer. I will use it as a replacement for my old (30 year old) current Dremel making pins and modifications to components for doorlocks and padlocks. The 4300 is more powerful than the 4000 and has several improvements the big ones are far better cooling, 1.8Amps and 35000 RPM
Great review. So what your basically saying is that you will use the new router for bindings because you like how your depth gauge attaches to the new router base and you get good results. Is that a fact? lol!
I was going to ask about torque (especially startup torque). Ive had a couple of (the hobby type) dremels and while maybe abit loud, they definately are full of torque.
@@RosaStringWorks Brushes are like spark plugs in a car. They wear out. However; some brushes last longer than others, just like platinum plugs last longer than steel ones. You seem to have gotten quality brushes with your old Dremel.
@ This stuff is pretty wicked, and wouldn't have to be permanent: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L69S5HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My dremel 4000 i have had for 4 years is the best most useful tool i have ver owned, just yesterday i used it to cut and plug a gass leak in our house, cut throught 15mm copper pipe like butter and smooth.
Meh, I just bought the Proxxon... But You did a great review, almost makes me buy the Dremel😉 I enjoyed watching, it was a refreshing difference compared to other reviews. I'll see how the Proxxon works out for me, maybe I'll put some tape around the neck- something like that. Anyways, thanks for this nice review, I'll stick around 😊
@@RosaStringWorks Clear self-adhesive pickguard material (the cheap stuff) for your router base. Lasts a long time and simple to replace. Adds very little height to the base.
Proxon = 20mm mounting near the chuck = can be mounted on any CNC and provides huge stability Dremel = stupid body shape = hand held only And when it comes to power there are two and only two factors: Brushless is far stronger than brushed Larger diameter rotor = higher torque
@@ChickenPermissionOG They are weak and noisy Never managed to push one above 20w before it stalled. But you can cut hundreds of meters of carbon fiber and FR4 with a 40$ spindle. If that's not value nothing is. Now back to your handmade filling. You might need a new pair of glasses soon. Pickle jars will do just fine 💔
Nice review however you should check out the Milwaukee m12 cordless rotary tool. I went through my 3rd Dremel and was looking at the Dremel. 8220 vs the Milwaukee. The Milwaukee is more powerful and imo has a better grip. Also all of the Dremel accessories fit on the Milwaukee. Battery recharge on Milwaukee 30 min. Vs 1 hr Dremel. But if you are into the Milwaukee cordless m12 system extra batteries shouldn’t be a problem. M12 may sound louder but when installed keyless chuck sound did reduce. Also 5 year warranty compared to 2 yr Dremel.
@@RosaStringWorks OK, I use the Flex Shaft, with no "Hands On" adjustment, so the foot pedal is a plus in this configuration (I've got small hands) :-)
Without looking, I would think the European models of Proxxon would be higher amperage because they use 220volts over there. SO machine the base of the Proton down 1/8th and make a wider plate. Just use the screws that are already there. Should be really easy
Stephen, I think you have it backwards. Assuming the US and European models are the same motor wattage, the 230V version will draw half the current of the 115V version.
I don't think that IBS/E is meant to be held in hand.. You need a flex shaft for hand work. If you want the tool in hand buy a FBS or Micromot.. I had a dremel on cnc engraver and the vibration is just crazy... I returned it same day.
You got the wrong Proxxon for your needs. I would go with the Proxxon FBS 240/E.(Do not know if it is named the same on US market) That one you can hold perfectly like a pen, and weighs a lot less than the shown dremel. It's only 100w though compared to the Dremels 175w. Otherwise i like them both.
Interesting how on at least a couple of features you and Ben disagreed on which you preferred. The grip was one of them. Just goes to show how personal a thing the feel of tools can be I suppose.
Thank You verry mutch for the Video. I buy know the dremel 4000. Think about the Dremel 3000 if the 3000 is good enough for model plains and stuff in the house, but the Ampere is the thing im worry about by the 3000. What do you mean?
