Folks, on the newer Ender 5 printers, Creality has dropped the semi-automated bed leveling option. I am not sure why but here is a video that will show you how to add it back to your printer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfTm0SqIFm4.html Irv
Same tbh, not a big deal though, i got it close manually with a bubble level, and did the rest just moving the machine around, seems silly to remove a good, useful feature. Mine is also missing the thing that keeps the bed from dropping. Could just be an old stock model idk
@@Shadowlogic420 what keeps the bed from dropping? I'm convinced this is my problem and why no prints work. I level the bed carefully and it's ok for the whole priont, but if I stop/pause and go to home for any reason, including finishing a print, the very next one is out of whack for height and back to not working again. I've watched the bed height float around enough to note the nozzle go from not even touching a piece of paper to outright almost denting the magnetic pad the very next time only to go out again. Leveling is good for one print only and I feel that's not normal.
RU-vid have a habit of displaying "recommended videos" that are crap. This time I got lucky. Thank you . I have an ender 3 and this levelling technique works with it too.
Thanks a lot DrVax, this week I received my Father's Day gift, an ender 5 and after a lot of sites and videos, your tutorials finally helped me to level and calibrate the printer. Thanks again, kept the good work and stay safe!, greetings from Chile
This was fantastic. Thank you so much for your videos and awesome instruction. I used this in conjunction with the video regarding the G-code for assisted leveling that you posted and it has been an enormous help. As a new 3d hobbyist, I was getting very frustrated with the print quality from my Ender 5 Pro and the tip about the post it note in the center to accommodate the plate not being entirely flat was awesome! Thank you so much.
You win a thumbs up from me for saying use painters tape to level the bed. I don't know what the heat will do to the tape. I guess I'll find out. I have a really high spot in the middle of the bed. It took a layer all the way around the outside and a couple of spots if clear tape. Took about an hour to get it all set right, but it all came out really good in the end. With the thickness and height inside +/-.0015. I had zero strings using Esun PLA+ 200 on the Nozzle, and 60 on the bed.
Thanks! I used your trick with the paper/post-it note, the test cubes printed fine after a few tries and tweaks. Then I tried to print a sample model and it failed to adhere to the bed. Your comment at the end of the video is the one that sealed the deal for me; the one about adjusting the bed and nozzle temperatures. I set the bed temperature to 55 and the nozzle to 210 and I'm roaring.
You may change the firmware first, activating marlins manual mesh-bed leveling. Second step: heat the bed to 60°C (or 68°C if thats your prefered temmperature for PLA), as the middle may bend up on temperature. Wait at least 5 minutes after heating up to get the bed warm evenly. Do not heat up the nozzle... Than do the leveling as you described, but ignore the middle position (exept if nozzle crush into the bed there, you have to lower all leveling wheels than). If all 4 edges are as good leveled as possible, you can do the manual mesh bed leveling. As the bed bending will be nearly the same on the same temperature any time (as long you do not bend it by force), there is no need for ABL. If you use diferent bed temperatures or different print surface, of course a ABL is more comfortable. For different temperatures, do the manual mesh-bed-leveling for every temperature you want to use (f.e. 60°C for PLA and 80°C fort PET-G); after doing an mmbl read out the values and store it as an g-code. so you can "print" it before printing with the actual material. It gets more complicated with different print surfaces with different thickness as this can influence the bending. If you only use "flexible" surfaces, simply more stored meshes may do, but if you use an mirror for print surface you may use an ABL-sensor. With an removable printsurface I realy do not understand how an company can do without ABL or even semi-automatic bed leveling (like an piezo to manualy put on the nozzle to measure the bed and to be removed after mbl). It wouldn´t be as expensive as an BL-Touch, but more precice. So an impact to the price maybe 10$ but much more functionality.
Thanks for providing the info. I recently received the firmware upgrade and EZConnect bed leveling upgrade kits from TH3D. While a bit expensive you gain access to an outstanding support organization and first-class QA. I will be making a video of how to do the update in the next few weeks.
5 лет назад
"So an impact to the price maybe 10$ but much more functionality." Or they can sell the ABL upgrade kit for 35, like Creality does ;)
@ One of the problems with the upgrade kit for ABL is the BL-Touch not being the most reliable solution. There are many users complaining their BL-Touch got foulty after a short time - and the replacemant did also. Of course the voices of people with problems may be overrated, because if you have a problem you post more comments as if everything just working fine. But anyway - its an entry level printer and for a 3d-newbee such source of problems should be avoided. The best solution in reliability and precission and working on all printfaces would be ABL with an piezo mounted between printhead and x-carriage, using the nozzle as the actual probe. Its also quite cheap - a piezo disc is only some cent and if you design the mount for the printhead to use the disc from the start the price for the "mecanical part" would be less than a dollar. It needs an adjustable electronic, but thats also less than 5$. Its just not easy to do so as an simple "upgrade kit" for beginners, as you would have to disassamble the printhead to get a holder for the piezo between the head and the x-carriage. Something as www.thingiverse.com/thing:3404715 wich is in developement beta state. Of course it only makes sense if you get rid of all the vibrations due to the cheap stepper drivers, as they can lead to false readings. Another solution for more reliable ABL would be an magnetic sensor like the PINDA2 prusa uses. But it works only if you use springsteel for printbed (wich is a good idea anyway, you can get a spring steel about 20$ US and glue any surface you want with 3M on top (exept glas of course...) or buy even pei-powder coated spring steel (like on the prusa mk3). But I do not think it´s something for beginners (but in price: about 12 $ for a pinda-probe, 20$ for a spring steel it is quite a nice solution for experiented users). In my case I want to rework the Ender 5 a little further in the next months: I got an Einsy board (cloned from Aliexpress on the last black friday for 54 €) and want to change the printhead to the prusas mk3 printhead (but whith the bmg version from bondtech using chinese cloned "dual drive" and pencake stepper). Altogether the electronics, the z probe and the printhead would be like on my prusa mk3s, for about 100-110 $US (+bed). Even the original prusa firmware should work; but you should be able to print faster than with a mk3 with the same quality due to less weight on x and y using the cube design. And it should be easy to add an MMU2s for multiMaterial printing. As I have other ongoing projects it will take some time before I start the Ender 5 - upgrade project (I do modifications on 5 other printers (out of 6, only the mk3 is manly unchanged), so the Ender 5 is now for the worst case szenario all my printers are not usable the same time an (which happend last week, I broke a part on my mk3) and I have to print upgrade/replacement parts, so the Ender 5 will be unchanged until at least two of the other printers in progress are finaly working).
I ended up ordering an Ender 5 just yesterday. I see lots of people just going to a mirror surface to help with the issue of dips in the bed plate. I may do that right off the bat.
The only disadvantage is you loose the advantage of the removable magnetic surface which is quite nice. Also you may want to check your bed first. Mine is very flat.
Maybe you could add, that you should move it up by hand on the first startup. my limit switch and bed were pre-adjusted so high, it would have just crashed the bed into the nozzle. Nice video though, very helpful
Excellent suggestion. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
probably should have mentioned or pointed to another video about rendering the stl into gcode file. Me being a 3d printer noob just put the stl file on the card and then wondered why it didn't show up in the file list. Once I realized there was another step I ended up downloading Cura and mumbled my way through generating the gcode. Given this is an ender5 video maybe just supply the gcode for it.
Folks, on the newer Ender 5 printers, Creality has dropped the semi-automated bed leveling option. I am not sure why but here is a video that will show you how to add it back to your printer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfTm0SqIFm4.html Irv
Got mine set up today in around an hour and luckily levelled the bed to a reasonable point which produced an exceptional print (not too disimilar to my old Prusa). Manual bed levelling (disable steppers) gives me a major issue as it disables the Z stepper (rather than just disabling x and y) after a few minutes and you have to start again due to the bed dropping this is really frustrating. Even the four corner option you have would at least remove the need for disabling the steppers. I had gcode for my cr10 which effectively did the same thing so Im sure there must be one out there to help (or Ill try writing my own)
Unfortunately the bed dropping when steppers are off is a know issue with the ender 5. I have added a z axis support I found on Thingiverse to help with this. Not everyone things that is a good idea.
@@MakeWithTech I used an ender 3 gcode on thingiverse for bed levelling... runs the four corners twice for paper levelling then prints 5 circles www.thingiverse.com/thing:3118088
Irv, what version of Marlin is on the Ender 5 in this video? I don't see the bed auto leveling option on mine. Running Marlin 1.1.6 on a Creality Ender 5 Pro main board is version 1.1.5
That video was made with the first version of the firmware from a couple of years ago. I have more recent videos on the channel that use a different approach
Hi, your videos are amazing. Many thanks. I'm a newby to 3d printing. I have a 3d printer Ender 5 Pro, leveling bed is ok, but when it starts printing, bed goes down about 10 mm and this distance is to much to print. What's the problem?
I had issues with the uneven heat on the bed when I used post-it-notes/paper. I headed my bed and checked corner to corner. The warmer the bed, the less issue I had. I used aluminum foil under the magnetic print plate and it seems to be doing the trick. I do still have to up the bed temp a touch but I don't have cool spots.
Which threads are you asking about. To get an answer to your question it would be helpful to see a picture. You can go to forum.drvax.com, register and post a picture with your question. Then the DrVax community can help answer your specific question. All the best. Irv
hi . i got and ender 5 too as of late. but it wont print it just stopa while in theb beginning of the print.... what is your in stalled firmware and motherboard version
I have done this bed level tutorial and I was able to get good results with 0.4 nozzle but when I changed to 0.6 nozzle this behavior changed. I am not able to get the bed leveled and also when printing the nozzle touch the printing parts. Can you help? Please?
Not sure why it is gone. But here is a way to do the same thing that I explain in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfTm0SqIFm4.html Irv
How do you make the ender 5 bed come down when you pause or stop? my bed always stays atthe top and I want to be abele to get to the nozzle and wipe it clean.
Nearly 400.00 for the Ender 5 Pro, would think they could at least give us the bed leveling program with in it. Just got my Pro 5 a few weeks ago and nope, no bed leveling option in it
In order to "level" something you need an external reference. Usually a device called a "level" is used. Imagine that. Most levels use a calibrated bubble. What was just demonstrated is not leveling although that's what the printer makers call it. This demonstration actually has the effect of aligning (approximately) the surface of the bed with the X & Y tool paths. It's very important to do this it just isn't leveling. Once this calibration has been done a spirit level should be placed on the bed aligned with both X & Y axis and the frame of the printer should be raised and/or lowered as appropriate to level the bed and the tool paths coincidentally.
The early Ender 5's included the bed leveling options. Later ones did not. However, there is an alternative: This video explains how to add this capability to any Marlin printer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfTm0SqIFm4.html
You can use the front panel of the printer or with the printer off you can very slowly mover it down by hand by turning the Z axis screw. That is the silver colored threaded rod. Turn it just until the switch that senses the bottom position triggers.
HI, so nice that RU-vid suggested yours channel. I'm interested in 3D printers and just at this point I'm considering choosing an ender 3 pro or ender 5. Does it have a lot of significance that ender 5 can print at a slightly higher temperature? I like that frame ender 5 looks very solid, very strong, but does it be necessary? Ender 3 pro looks very practical and reliable as well.
@@MakeWithTech Do you have any advice on how to print with PETG on the Ender 5? I've tried all sorts of options; hotter and lower temps on the bed and the print head, speed, retraction...prints either don't stick to the bed, or the filament ends up stringing and failing. I have good luck with PLA, but would like to try other options.
Interesting. I have not had trouble with PETG --- depending on the PETG. For example, the PETG Prusa ships with printer parts are quite hard to print. However, I have found SainSmart PETG no harder to print than PLA.
I would start with the screw in the middle of its range. Then level your bed. After you have leveled the bed you can use minor adjustments to the screw to change the Z offset. That is to say to move the overall bed up or down a bit to get better print adhesion.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you for your response. I started with the bolt up a good bit to make sure the bed would not bang into the nozzle before the switch made. It was very high after homing. I screwed it down to even with the top of the nut and I had to adjust the level screws to the point the had NO tension on them to get it to adjust to touch the bed. Readjusted the bed screws to about midpoint. I then had to remove the nut on the top the Z-offset screw and adjust the screw down to about half the nut height to get it to level with tension on the screws. I was very impressed with the first print. It was a stringing test. There were none and good strong posts. I will have another look to see what I need to get it to level closer to the mid-range on the bed leveling screws. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks for a very good video.
everything I've read suggests you should be leveling the bed is hot but there are some that say it's doesn't matter? Also this video would have been great to show you actually leveling the bed as it's printing instead of just mentioning how to do it, think that would have been more helpful to newbies.
Thanks for the comments. This was a relatively early video on my channel. There are now a number of bed leveling videos on the channel. You are correct it is optimal to level the bed at temperature.
Wish I saw this last night. Leveling for the first time last night as well as first 3d print. My print bed doesn't return to bottom like yours. Should it?
This is a function of your slicer, not the printer. The command to move the print platform after the print is complete goes into the printer setup. For example in the Ender 3 definition on Cura this command is included after the print is complete "M84 ; Disable stepper motors". I would have to test to be sure but I think this releases the Z-axis and the weight of the platform causes it to go to the bottom. For my Ender 5 setup, I started with an Ender 3 setup and changed the print platform size.
The auto level option of the Ender 5 doesn't really do much. All it does is move the printer head to the four corners. Just turn the power off and move the head manually. Here is another video where I do that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yzyy2e5cHAg.html
I just order one. I have not found anywhere that specifically lists this as being compatible with the Ender 5. As soon as it arrives I will review it and post a video. Probably a couple of weeks from now. Thanks for pointing this out.
I am about to place my order this week for a ender 5 and also the sensor. That for the info video how to use otcoprint. Will just use my Ethernet instead WiFi.
Can you post the dimensions of the printer. Wanted to get two IKEA pack table and hope it fits to make it inclosed, since the printer will be in my shop.
Sure. These are approximate so please leave yourself some extra space. The frame is 410mm wide, however, the X-axis stepper motor extends beyond the frame, which makes the width approximately 530mm. In addition, a full-size filament reel extends about 230mm on the right-hand side for a total width of 760mm. The frame plus stepper motor is 480mm deep and about 520mm tall. The feet are on the frame so a table that is about 420mm wide will hold the printer and the filament and stepper motors will just extend outside of the table surface. I hope this is helpful.
Thanks so much. Could find no where on the web the size, only printing bed size. The lack table is 55cmx55cm so would fit. May relocate the reel to the top like they have for the Prusa ikea lack table case.
I have Ender 5 Pro and the bed or build plate is dipped in the middle. I even dropped a glass bed on it to try and resolve it. Dunno if it's cuz i'ma newbie but I want to smaaash the printer! Yep I turn purple, not green, and smash chit when angry. Anyway, anyone have a good bed stabilizer to print or order in US? Thnx
Hey @DrVax sent you a email about my issue. I did your steps, however my last middle calibration had the opposite results. I am using the stock glass bed and my middle area is actually higher. However I do have clips on the sides of the bed that may be throwing off my leveling. Thoughts?
Is your bed flat? You can check with the a ruler on edge. With glass on the bed it should be flat and while your bed could be tilted I am not sure how the middle can be higher. If your bed is close using Magigoo (a special bed adhesive) should ensure your prints will stick. The only other alternative is to put a boot loader on your printer, upgrade the marlin firmware and use either HW or SW bed leveling. However, once again if your bed is flat and just tilted you should be able to level it. Make sure you are making very small adjustments. Make sure you start the process with the bed level screws in the middle of their range. Make sure your hot end is attached properly.
@@MakeWithTech I went back and did it a few times with the level and found it needing some tuning. I did it only twice, and my first print came out flawless.
Hello.. I’m having an issue with leveling my MP10, which you said would level similar to the Ender5. To get the print head properly adjusted to the print bed my knobs are so loose they are moving on their own as the printer operates and they are essentially rattling themselves looser and then falling off. Any suggestions?
It sounds to me like you do not have the hot end (nozzle) in the Z home position when you are trying to level the print bed. On the MP10 you can turn the Z-axis rod (vertical rod) by hand if the PRINTER IS OFF. On the right side of the print bed, there is a limit switch. You should turn the rod counter-clockwise until you hear the switch click. Then turn it clockwise to back it off and then move it down again to make sure you are in the home position.
I just put my ender 5 together. everything went good with leveling but noticed my bed didn't heat up so my test print failed. Do i need to set my bed temp manually or do I have a bad connection?
I set up my Ender 5 Today but There is No Bed auto leveling button instead it says " set home Offsets" instead of it says bed auto leveling like everyone elses.. am i doing something wrong?? plus after i press the set home offsets it just makes a loud beep and goes back to the main menu! someone help me!
The Ender 5 does not have auto bed leveling. At least mine only had assisted bed leveling. All that did was move the printer nozzle to each corner and then the center. While it was convenient it is not necessary. It is possible in more recent firmware Creality has changed the option. No worries. All you really need to do, with the power OFF, manually rotate the Z screw until the bed trips the Z axis sensor switch. You will hear it click. You may need to lower the bed adjustment screws a bit if you print bed is currently too high. Turn the dials under the print bed to the right to tighten the screws and pull the bed down. You can turn the z screw back and forth to make sure you are tripping the Z-axis switch. The switch is on the back rail towards the center. Once you are in the "home" position, where the switch is triggered (the printer is still OFF). Now use a post-it note at each corner to check the bed position. Since the power is off you should be able to slide the print head around. You may need to push down on the print bed a bit to slide it if the current adjustments are too high. This video shows how to do this with no SW assistance. It uses a Monoprice Select Mini as the example but the idea is the same. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yzyy2e5cHAg.html The Ender 5 also has a global Z offset screw in the back center of the print bed you can use to move the bed a bit up or down.
@@MakeWithTech thank you very much for your help. Will deff check out the video. Was just concerned that everyone had the assisted bed leveling function and my brand new ender 5 doesnt any thoughts on that?
Make sure the little switch on the back of the power unit is switched to 110v if you are in the U.S. Had the same problem took me 2 days of frustration.
Interesting video. I used the bed leveling gcode and it seemed to work quite well. I found I had to put a Post-it under the center of the mat (as you mentioned), but then the center was a little too high. I will have to find something a bit thinner. I'm also wondering if I can use my feeler gauges to establish the height. Being metal, they shouldn't suffer from compression issues like paper does. In any case, my real remaining issue (after getting the test print done) is to eliminate the very fine hair strings that are created when the nozzle is moved from one location to another. On the test print, I get very fine hairs from the inside corner of the large square to the outside of the small one, and vice-versa when the nozzle moves from the small to the large. On the bright side, the squares measured very close to 1mm (within a tenth).
I have a video about stringing that I recently posted on the channel. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WLWYzJe8zxI.html Hope this helps. Also check out forum.drvax.com where you can discuss you challenges with other people interested in 3d printing.
Hello I'm a follower and love your video but have a question to see if you could help me, I have STC 3D printer and I downloded the software you recomended but it doesnt let me print and wanted to know if you have a video that show you how to print. Thank you
What type of computer are you using? Did you verify that the computer is recognizing the printer is plugged into the USB port? If you are using a windows machine you will need to install USB drivers to use the software. The best place to get help is probably the mattercontrol web site. Here is a link to the FAQ. wiki.mattercontrol.com/Frequently_Asked_Questions
Ummmm turning the wheel to the right is clockwise, not counter clockwise? How are you looking at it? You lost me there. On my previously 2 3D printers, turn right raises the bed and turn left (counter clockwise) lowers the bed.
Thanks for the video, can you do a video whit the instalation of the Creality BLTouch Auto bed level sensor on this printer ender 5? thank you very much and sorry for my english
Mine does not have this feature either. I do understand that it "doesn't do much" as one can turn of the x-y steppers and move the head manually, but sometimes when i do that, the printer will spontaneously shut of the z-stepper half way though the job forcing me to start over again. Is anyone else seeing this issue and/or understand why it happens?
@@jonascarlsson1290 Disable all steppers, not just x and y and also i would actually recommend to use the move axis function instead of moving it manually. thats what i ended up doing and its been working flawlessly so far.
Having some issues with leveling my Ender 5. Recently bought it and as everyone else said doesn't have the leveling option, which I disengaged the XY and manually moved it around which seemed ok, but the issue I'm having is the center of the bed is just too low. Mentioned something about tape being used in the center, just not entirely sure what that means. ( First printer and complete newb to this whole process )
Did you ever find out how to do this. Dude im in your shoes. No idea WTF im doing. Been struggling with bed levelling and Z offset for 3 weeks. Stuffed up my magnetic bed so bought a glass bed. Now I dont know what to do to get the Z Offset right. If you were able to figure some stuff out I could use some advice?
Just lay some small, thin object under the middle of your printing mat. Start very thin (a single sheet of aluminium foil for example) and work your way up. (opple aluminium foil, triple and so) Other people prefer not to use something out of metal, but use a thin sheet of paper...
The concern people have with the Ender 5 bed is that the magnets holding the bed are not rated for high temperatures. From what I can find on the Internet heating the bed above 85C will degrade the magnets over time. I have a PETG print running at 90C and so far the magnets seem to be sticking over time. However, this may cause the magnets to fail in the future. Before starting this test I purchase a replacement bed, both the top and bottom magnetic surfaces on Amazon for $16 so I this just means I need to replace the print bed magnets every X prints then I do not see a lot of downside.
I woke up to a spaghetti monster this morning and my printer was out of wack. Thanks for the video it really helped me get it back in line. The strip of painter's tape under the center of the magnetic sheet was exactly what it needed after a nice corner level, thank you DrVax! imgur.com/ZPax7Td
Thanks I just bought an Ender 5 for my husband and I am trying my best to help him. Okay so I downloaded the thingiverse from the site and my print in one corner instead of following a straight line went diagnol. The outer square I am trying to use printer paper to level my bed is it too thick? Do I need something thinner?
Printer paper is fine. I recommend cutting out a 3” square. It will be easier to use. The print probably did not stick to the bed and was dragged by the print head which cause it to seem diagonal. The corner where the diagonal started is probably too high. Also make sure your print bed temp is set to at least 60c and you might want to try 70c. Finally make sure you are using PLA and are using the default cura settings. This is trial and error process. Keep at it and you will succeed.
One more suggestion. Make sure the magnetic print surface is clean. Any oil from your hands will cause the print to release. I clean my print surface with rubbing alcohol before each print. Just put a few drops on a clean cloth and wipe down the print surface. The print bed can be warm when you do this. It still works. You just want to remove all oil like cleaning a window. Do not use acetone as it can harm the print surface.
Ty I was wandering what we were suppose to use, we were using a hot water and shop towel. I had to fix the retraction settings all the way up to 6mm. Translucent filament is extremely stringy.
Bed leveling,does this need to be done hot or cold? I noticed when doing it cold,my bed dips from corner to corner, on the outside edges and in the centre.Will this sort itself out when the bed is hot? I checked straightness using a straight edge. Also is this a big problem,my first printer,total noob here.
Yes it is critical. I would guess more prints fail because of improperly leveled beds than any other reason. Yes it is better to heat up the bed before leveling it.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you for your replyi am going to heat the bed and then check it with a straight edge when hot.I bought the printer a few months ago but because of work obligations and then illness,didnt get a chance to set it up,so if it doesnt straighten out,dont think i will get any joy from Creality.What about putting a sheet of glass on bed,do you think that would work?Read you have to put hair laquer on glas to give filament purchase. Once again thankyou for a very informative vid and your reply.
turned my printer on and tried to do a print from the sd card and the nozzle has dug into the magnetic top, So i will be sending this printer back tomorrow. its ridiculous to send out printers that cant print. the Z axis moved down on its own so when you think its all level it might have moved down 2 mm, so when you print bang goes your magnetic top trashed, its a bad printer and no way would this printer resume, you only have to fart and the z axis moves.
That is exactly why I ALWAYS level the print bed of a new 3d printer, manually with the power off before using any SW leveling support. Here is a video that shows how to do this manually on an Ender 3 pro. The same procedure will work on an Ender 5. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y_xCtxcwDrQ.html
@@MakeWithTech Read my reply again! I said i levelled the bed, but the bed moved down on its own. the z axis moved as soon as the stepper motors go off and as i have "NO DAMN LEVEL BED OPTION" i thought the bed was level, but it wasn't because the z axis moved down after stepper motors went off, so i was still levelling it not realising this. if you don't understand what im saying then you're not the best person to be making these vids.
Some enders have it and some do not. It is not really necessary. This video talks about this and shows you how to level and Ender 3/5 printer manually. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y_xCtxcwDrQ.html
@@MakeWithTech Thanks for the vids but none of this will help me address the z axis problem, the auto bed levelling would have helped because it would keep the stepper motor on and the z axis would not move down as soon as i touch the bed levelling knobs.
Creality changes there firmware over time. They have dropped this option from the newer builds. Here is a video that will teach you how to add this option in yourself: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfTm0SqIFm4.html
