3D Printed Mechanical Parts - Resin VS. FDM (EXPERIMENT) 

hi

Oh good so i wasnt going blind;)

bro .. is could be a 5 min video ... just avoid reusing shots .. 5 times u loaded the resing .. I was expecting the timelapse of the resin printer , never came ... but it's still nice!

You could apply the same principal to filament parts though, use a better/more suitable material

@@lio1234234 Agreed - I was suggestibg a followup video. For reference, the version of the parts I made with standard resin exploded into shrapnel the second they spun up. Standard resin is just not meant for mechanical use (although you can get away with it as LP shows here). PLA on the other hand has decent structural properties in all forms.

@@lio1234234 Also, upgrading to ABS-like is simply a matter of pouring out a different bottle. Upgrading material on FDM often involves a different all-metal hot end, a full enclosure, and lots of anti-lifting tricks to keep things from warping. So my suggestion comes as one that is a no brainer for viewers.

@@DD-DD-DD PETG doesn't need upgrades and is much better mechanically than PLA, thanks to a little bit more flexibility, much lower surface friction, and much higher heat deflection temperature, so surface heat from friction affects it an order of magnitude less.

@@SianaGearz Agree, mechanically it's an upgrade from PLA. Surface hardness is not great, it requires a heated bed and release agent, it absorbs water like crazy, and it's really tough to glue parts together without a lot of chemical prep. Having said that, I think a rematch between PETG and an ABS-like resin would be great fun to watch!

I'd like to add a note. On the first test where the resin printed parts failed, I am not saying this was the reason, but, you printed the rollers with a different printer, could it be related with the reason they had more friction? Is the layer size the same? Is the black resin exactly the same? I would have a go with same print conditions just to make sure.. I am saying this because on hind sight, I would say the resin parts held quite well on the rest of the tests, while on this they failed hard.

The reality is that is not other resin is only one the thing that change is aditives the streng dosent gonna change too much and fdm are stronger than resin.

@@tigerkingboss9106there are resins that are way stronger than PETG

​@@cinemasurge1851and there is Nylon, which is way stronger than anything else

Also some resins, especially water washables can warp a lot after getting printed

I think it'd be to do with surface roughness, although there's roughness between the layers themselves in FDM, the surface roughness of each layer (the part that comes in contact) is smoother than that from resin printers. It could also be due to the material itself as well as you have mentioned

@@lio1234234 The rougher the surface the less material is in contact with each other. The resin bearing being smoother than the FDM bearing means there are more square inches in contact in the written print then there are for the FDM print. Was the point I was making about there being more friction.

@@Xploit66 That's not really true you are referring to the coefficient of friction which is independent from surface finish. Generally the rougher the surface the higher the coefficient of friction.

@@shorb2289 Metal bearings wear out without lubrication too.

Walls do add more strength than infill, we know this from tests from CNC kitchen. There's tons of different settings for optimising the strength of a part.

Another point, I agree with the PLA needing a higher temperature. Apart from printing something that's purely aesthetic and with no function, 215 degrees C is the standard, not 200. With 200 you get quite poor layer adhesion even if it does look slightly better on some printers

He should have used ABS. Mechanical parts should be printed in ABS with a FDM printer. PLA is for good looking or parts how don’t get hot.

Also try feeding random twigs and rocks/dirt in. A printed idler design would be cool to see too, use spare print bed spring maybe?

Siraya Tech Blu (the translucent blue one).

Also, thank you for this video!!! I only have an FDM printer, but I was planning to do gears potentially just like these soon, and realise I have a lot of thinking to do!! :P

Butyl gloves are most protective with 3D printing resin.

stick to steel or better stuff like titanium ... at least as long there has been no "wonder" plastic invented that is n t warping and melting from 200C upwards... and lets not start with stiffness of plastics ... especially torque loaded parts like gears gotta need good stiffness ... imagine a Kardanwelle made of plastic (idk what the engl. word for kardanwelle is , if you do google picture search you should see what i mean) their translator spits out bullshit into engl.

@@solunasunrise you probably own or have owned dozens or hundreds of mechanisms made from Nylon and Delrin. Any quartz clock, the mechanism inside a tape player or optical disk drive, most servo motors, some kitchen devices, and so many other things. Plastic can have a very low surface friction and the flexibility reduces the running noise. Not every mechanism needs to withstand high temperatures in excess of 80°C or a lot of external force, in fact outside automotive and industrial, barely any do. When plastic mechanisms do fail, provided they're adequately designed, it's usually due to either plastic properties changing over decades such as Nylon losing hydration or due to a manufacturing defect. If you have the possibility to scale up, you can increase forces accordingly. Even a garage door has a plastic gear in it, as a safety measure to have something break before it breaks your bones. Ihr habt im Weltkrieg ihre ganzen Wissenschaftler getötet oder vertrieben, zusammen mit all denjenigen, die in eure ach so homogene Gesellschaft nicht passten, das habt ihr nun davon, euere Ingenieurwesen und Wissenschaft sind im Eimer. Jedes Kommentar aus deutschsprachigem Raum ist reines Krebs. Da passt Gatekeeping ganz gut dazu, ja. Also: prop shaft.

@@SianaGearz ich hab niemanden verjagt !!! .. verstehe garnicht was das mit meiner frage zu tun haben soll ...wollte jetz jedenfalls keine politische dumfug standpauke mir hier durchlesen !

@@solunasunrise anything mechanical has a weak spot/stress area, regardless of what it's made out of. a weaker gear made out of plastic that fails first is cheaper and easier to replace than a strong part like a motor or serve that burns out instead...

Then he should also have used temperature and wear resistens filament ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

All SLA resins are acrylic thermoset polymers. Which specifically, tends to be a trade secret. They have nothing in common with FDM thermoplastics. Well closest thing that comes to mind is PMMA is FDM printable, but is quite a menace and barely usable, that's an acrylic thermoplastic. Actually at least one of the Chinese water washable resins seems to be an Epoxy Methacrylate. The biggest fundamental difference between FDM polymers and resins is that thermoplastics are linearly linked, so they form a chain that you can thermally unfurl and untwist the molecules from each other and put into a new shape. Thermoset polymers are crosslinked, so they are locked together permanently until they are destroyed somehow, like you have linear chains but you also have connections growing in between the chains.

@@SianaGearz thank you!

You are correct. Ideally the drive worm is contoured to match the driven gear, and vice versa. Makes for much more contact surface, so a lot more strength. I also observed in these tests that the gear mesh was far from perfect which didn't help at all. I don't thihk either of those gearsets should have destroyed themselves so quickly.

Optically clear prints are impossible with FDM, it always locks some air between the beads of molten plastic. Thomas Sanladerer tried though and he got remarkably close to optically clear with PETG and a lot of fine tuning. With MSLA resin printers, it's possible and clear colourless resin exists. To get optical clarity, it's an extra step in the process, which makes it 4 step. Print, wash, post-cure, at which point the volume of material is optical quality but the surface is not, and then you have to clear lacquer the print. These prints have a strong propensity to yellow due to light and not ideal curing over as little as 4 months. If you use UV protective lacquer, you can likely prevent that. You can have a company in China both print and lacquer such prints, I have seen someone get a print for $17 from them which was much larger and more complex than you'd do for a model car, and it was gorgeous. I'm not sure I want to advertise any particular business here though.

@@SianaGearz oay and that Thomas Sanladerer is a youtuber ?

@@solunasunrise yep. One of the first serious 3D printing tubers from all the way back to 2014.

@@SianaGearz okay... so i could make tiny carlights but nothing as clear as windshield ... do they sell filament or resin for that ? i guess more likeley resin ?

@@solunasunrise I think for both uses, you'll want resin printing. And you'll probably need to sand or use a very particular clear spray for it to work reasonably well for the windshield. Maybe antialiasing tuning can help as well. One problem that comes to mind is that the backlight setup in the current crop of hobbyist available SLA machines is kind of absolutely atrocious and doesn't really allow for good consistent calibration that would hold throughout the area of a larger print. The problem with FDM that even after tuning, while the bulk of the material was transparent, the surface quality was severely compromised. There's a smoothable clear FDM filament, Polymaker PolySmooth, but it doesn't really become clear with fine layers or multi-wall structures, due to air inclusions. The prints that i've seen out of the Chinese rapid prototyping company look absolutely spectacular and flat surfaces actually come out near perfectly flat, and gentle curves come out perfect as well, it looks like it would absolutely work as a model car windshield or any such. But i have not seen anyone in the hobby community replicate quite this kind of result, so i unfortunately don't have materials that i can recommend. Look at Uncle Jessy's vid on clear resin printing to see what sort of results people achieve with hobbyist available materials and means. The large rapid prototyping company must be using not just a clear resin, but a well-chosen curing light (likely well above 400nm), maybe they use a true laser SLA printer rather than an mSLA one, and likely automotive high-solids UV protective clear coat, which they can apply with industrial equipment and quality to thousands of pieces per run. I do suspect Uncle Jessy stopped half way to achieving a decent result, and that with more experimentation and community effort, it can be done at home as well, but there just isn't a clear recipe at the moment. Something Formlabs shows on their site is applying clear resin on top of the print to smooth it out, and while they have shown it acquiring true optical properties, there was also a substantial yellowing from post cure. The low-shrinkage self-levelling from surface tension seems to be crucial. I wonder if clear epoxy can be applied alternatively, maybe SmoothOn XTC 3D, or a 2-component clear lacquer since they have low shrinkage.

Mhm you can also cut a bunch of rollers from PTFE bowden tubing with a knife.

@@SianaGearz those tubes are soft and will collapse under load.

Good point, cost is a whole factor that is ignored In this video. But an important factor in any project.

@@L1mJahey he's not testing cost, he's purely testing mechanical strength/endurance

@@ryanc.6613 Your right, it's an experiment not a review, but out of curiosity it would be nice to know. And, honestly, the answer is the same whenever I see these vs vids, it just depends on the application which is better, they both have their strengths and weaknesses.

I disagree with you about ABS. ABS was yesterday's news. PETG is replacing it left right and center.

@@piconano totally agree, PETG or ASA. I'd say ASA has more similar properties to ABS than PETG had, but both are much better materials for 3D printing

Nylon is great but warping is a real problem without a proper heated chamber, there are some excellent carbon filled nylons that can be used instead though

ABS has garbage properties in mechanisms because it tends to separate out butadiene flake at the surface, the surface isn't abrasion resistant at all! It's the one big weakness of the material.

Not an "SLA printer rep", but can you give us MSLA printer consumers some examples of the SL1 software and hardware modifications/improvements you've needed to do with your Prusa SL1 to make it function properly? Can you tell us MSLA printer consumers how a Prusa SL1 can be modified to have a 288 x 163 x 350mm print volume because it's open source, for when we need to print very large parts? Thanks.

Clothing not required for fdm, that is correct ;)