Next you should do a video on diminishing returns ✌️ Also, saying "fully upgraded" implies there is a set mark to meet. That will just get people to spend money they don't need to. For those of you that want to print just as well as this thing, or a Prusa, and save money, do this. Bed springs or spacers. All metal hotend. All metal extruder. Direct drive is completely unneeded and the micro Swiss is super heavy on the print head, without the micro Swiss direct drive I can print dimensionally accurate prototypes at 150 mm/s on my E3v2. Also, Capricorn tube and CRtouch if you want (better than Bltouch). Around $150 for all this. Then install Jyers firmware and set up Auto bed leveling mesh with your CR touch. Learn how to modify the firmware and you can print nearly any material on the market worth printing. Oh and get an enclosure or build one if you want to print abs or nylon. I just saved you $500. Put that on another hobby or take your girl out for a steak. 👍
Getting an E3v2 for Christmas, have already ordered the metal extruder and CRtouch but havent selected an all metal hotend yet. What did you end up using? And what is the Jyers firmware and how does it compare to the native Creatily firmware. Thanks in advance mate, and peace from Oz.
@@----.__ Jayers, just like Creality firmware, is a fork of Marlin firmware. Creality, for some reason, just locks out a of great features and functions available within Marlin. Jayers unlocks all of those features. For one thing, it has assisted bed leveling. Even manually. This is HUGE if you are a newcomer to 3d printing. They also offer a version that has manual mesh bed leveling - a godsend if you happen to have a bed that is tad warped. I've only mentioned two things here, but there are a LOT of benefits. My advice would be get the printer, build it and get comfortable with it. Then update the firmware to Jayers. It really adds a lot of functionality and ease of use.
Bullshit I have an ender 3 v1 my ptfe tube fried after like 6 months that all metal hot end was a blessing. The bed springs that come with the ender v1 at least are dog shit you absolutely need to replace them with the yellow ones or the silicone spacers unless you want your bed getting thrown off tram after every print. Idk what you are running but I have a glass bed and you absolutely have to upgrade your springs. I agree with the direct drive though that’s a waste of money on a bed slinger like this. These work great when you print at a 40mm/s speed but when you install klipper and set your accel to 5000 and start whipping the printer around at 150mm/s you need upgrades you can run it stock but for how long is the question. In my experience it’s about 3 prints before I have to tweak something again. I’m sitting here right now waiting on parts to come from Amazon today as I type this from pushing my ender too hard for too long.
TBH I see no point on doing all of these upgrades. For that money I would rather just go for a more expensive and fully-fledged system...I find this video slightly misleading and it is very risky for new comers to 3D printing. It will make them believe that they _have to_ do all of this otherwise they will not get good results...
I always recommend keeping good parts that you remove when you upgrade something. If something happens to the upgrade part, you have the old part as a backup. It might not be the best, but, it can get you going temporarily until you can get a new part. Also keep any screws, nuts and washers. You never know when they might come in handy
Leaving the stock part cooling on is a major oversight when this much money and time is spent in upgrading the printer in my opinion. Also given the general price of the upgrades I would have expected dual Z steppers along with a 5 or 6 stepper driving capable mainboard, but the improvements there are arguable.
@@adamarzo559 Nor is there anything wrong with the stock v-slot movement system. Obviously the printer works with stock parts, that's why these are called "upgrades" and not "fixes" There are loads of situations where additional part cooling is useful or even necessary. Printing PLA is practically a case of "more cooling equals more better" . My point was also focused on the pricing anyway - the linear rail kit costs massive amounts of money whereas a simple fan upgrade for the part cooling is 30 dollars at most. It is way way easier to see improved results after a fan upgrade than after installing linear rails.
Yeah I have a noctua mod on my ender 3v2 and it's super quiet. Definitely an upgrade that is necessary, atleast when the printer operates in your vicinity.
@SuperDeinVadda in the aspect of what this guy is saying about parts cooling...I don't think noise is a factor for being able to print a few times faster...but I do agree quieter can be better. Just if trying to print faster...decibel level is off the table when aiming for faster print speed.
Thanks for confirming things by phone today. Much appreciate it PJ! I look forward to getting my kit and upgrading to the rails. I will be losing my LED side lights so I'll just redesign a carrier for it and put them into there. I also have the sprite extruder pro on mine, but I suspect it shouldn't have issues with installation, maybe need to design a new plate for it. I also will be running the Sonic Pad with it, which I've been running for several months, and it's been great! Thanks again for the quick bit of convo today. First-time 3D Printing Canada customer and so far, it's been a wonderful experience!
Yes! for some things... To turn a stock Ender 3 V2 into a whole different smaller print size beast! It's ok good thing, but only replacing both Y and X-axis rails with linear rails. The Z-Axis is stronger with stock wheels. It doesn't need it because moves much... only slowly raise up or down. By switching out all the wheels with linear rails. It is a big wasting your time and money, better spent elsewhere on your 3D printer buy a better printer in the first place. A longer size printer like a Voron 2.4 corexy 3d printer kit 300*300*300mm
@@CursedWarrior100 from what i researched 1 linear rail on the Y axis (its not centered) if you are printing at higher speeds and acell's will introduce a whole new array of problems, with 2 linear rails i get a much sturdier build
Total agree, I am upgrading my ender 5pro to a mercury 1(voron) and the total it is even cheaper than this. This a waste of time and resources. A VORON or RatRig cheaper and better, or just buy Prusa MK3
Nah. I easily could have gotten a Prusa or something...the tinkering and the community with this thing, though? No brainer for me. But that's just me. I LOVE hacking/tweaking/modding/tinkering. I also think this video is more of a "here is what can be done" sort of thing than a "here's what you should do" sort of thing.
@@MrReadySetDance the "I better buy" mindset could never know how others want to spend their own money. I like to buy more affordable thing so I can gradually upgrade it without need to spend 90% of my saving. Plus I can learn to tinker & troubleshoot in the process.
Well nice build video. But taking into account this upgrades cost hundreds of dollars do they actually worth it? Do you have any print comparison for each upgrade?
Finally after 10 days got mine printing good for the second time. I found out that the First Med measurement video I was watching wasn't worth a damn. The second one had really good results. Then I started printing accessories for my printer and the first one I did was a handle which was three pieces the big part of the handle in the middle would print but the two little Corners after they got about 3 in would tip over every time
measured the linear rail distance on the z. but didn't check if the z posts are in the exact same spot. there's at least 1-2mm of play each post O.o. also i don't get ringing on my stock 3v2 unless i push speeds so i don't see it as the main reason to change to linear rails. you should o f said it is for higher speeds not less ringing.
@Esoteric Bear I use mostly dial indicators and calipers, although I do have a Mitutoyo digital caliper and digital scale on the quill of my Bridgeport clone, and all my micrometers are the standard variety except one. That one is a Starrett 221 and has a direct reading of thousandths and tenths.
So I was looking at linear rail systems for y axis on my Prusa bed. I was learning about Igus Drylin bearings. All the videos for this topic show people replacing both y axis rails with linear rails. But when watching Igus documentation available at their website, the proper way to use linear rails was one linear rail as the "fixed rail" and the other dowel rail as the "floating rail." Theory seems to state that the fixed rail defines the movement of the heat bed. Then the floating rail allows for slight non-parallel and allows for slight non planarity between the two rails. I only saw one video with this theory practiced. But it was a very large print surface. The y axis required 4 rails because it was so big. The designer used two fixed rails and two floating rails. Based on how I see people using two fixed rails that may fight each other, I believe they may not be happy with the results of the upgrade because they are not following the standard convention of one fixed rail and one floating rail.
Great video. First time I've seen all these mods in a single install video. I must ask... What is the cost difference between this build and buying a few more parts and simply building a printer from scratch? The cost of the original parts that are now not being used vs buying all the parts that are being kept... But as al la carte?
@@issao.8453 You don't need half of this stuff. Just look at other channels talking about upgrades and you'll see which ones are actually useful. Diminishing returns.
that second lead screw seems useless to me as it is setup with this kit. I mean, without an axial bearing against which to push what keeps it from moving up and down when turning? also pancake stepper with a direct drive extruder? It needs a reduction ratio to be able to push filament through. Also it will get crazy hot keeping the stock current .
MyTechFun had installed a similar dual-z for his Ender 3 v2. He ended up putting a temp collar right under the top bearing to keep it from sliding up/down.
I want to do something similar with my Tarantula Pro with linear rails. I already have a direct drive with BMG, Pancake stepper and V6 hot end. I have a dual z kit ready to install as well.
I've Homers/Tevo and it's way more solid than that E3 rubbish.. It came with dual Z drive as standart and still 100 quid cheaper than E3... Well worth upgrading than upgrading already overpriced Creality kit..
Nice 👍 built n upgrade. Is there a difference in performance or quality after $$$ input? I like to upgrade mine if so. Thanks for sharing a wonderful work.💕
No need for a Prusa either though. The E3V2 only realistically needs $150 in upgrades and Jyers firmware to perform just as well as this or a Prusa. A Prusa still needs aftermarket upgrades and you're starting off at $800 minimum right off the bat.
To upgrade an ender 3 V2 like they did has got to be the stupidest thing I’ve ever seen. Why not just buy a 10x better printer for the amount you spend on all the upgrades. Stupid as all hell.
@@bobbylim1971 No he's right. It's called diminishing returns. You can get the same print quality and production output from $150 in upgrades. Perhaps he cares because he wants to help people save money or make better decisions. Why does anyone do anything? What are you adding to the conversation? "Because he has the money". Gee, thanks Copernicus.
@@dangerous8333 And he said 'stupid as hell' ... wow, what a polite word! Eventhough he wants to help others make a decision, say it in a better and polite way. Also, why are you defending him?
@@bobbylim1971 Oh no, he said "stupid as hell". Did he hurt your feelings? You should wash his mouth out with soap and give him a spanking. I'm defending him because I defend the truth. Especially against AirHeads that reply with meaningless nonsense like "because he can". That's not an argument, doofus. This other guy is trying to help people save money and not do things that are pointless. You on the other hand add absolutely nothing to the conversation.
I've updated on my 4.2.2 with BL touch following this guideline, but the BL touch is still just a solid red, and nothing is updating on my screen. Any suggestions?
Micro swiss ,the most over priced brand, there is soooo many alternative some of them also better and cheaper.....dont waste money for over priced parts
You get it... These videos get people to spend money on upgrades they don't need. Especially when they call it "fully upgraded". People will see that as a mark to meet. My E3v2 prints like an mk3s with only $150 in upgrades.
@@dangerous8333 I'm getting one tomorrow as my first printer. May I know what upgrades you did that actually will improve print quality? From watching a few videos a lot of times people just swap out irrelevant parts and call it an upgrade
@@ariafpv Don't do anything until you know how to use the printer and settings in your slicer. There are just a few things you could do to get a little better result. Upgrades like in this video is just a waist of your money. Start by buying the better heat bed springs, that will save you a lot of time leveling the bed every time. Buy a BL touch for auto-leveling so you can save even more time. All the other things are not really necessary to get good smooth results. Just take your time to get familiar with the printer and only do what you feel would help. Just like Dan Gerous already said, this video and similar ones are just so you spend money on things you don;t need. They get paid to get you to buy, remember that. I have the Ender3 V2 for about a year now and did nothing but what i told you to buy, works perfect with no defects or bad prints. Have fun with your new printer.
@@stephandevriesere3667 thanks, I have assembled it and printed 2 parts already. I was surprised at how well it prints out of the box with a basic pla profile. The better springs are already on the way. Bedleveling is probably the only not so good thing about the ender. One problem is however mine has a few bumps when moving the bed back and forward and I can clearly feel it while printing as well. It doesn't show up in prints but I'd still like to get it smooth somehow. I also want to make it direct drive to print TPU, as that's what I'll be using 50% of the time
@@ariafpv I would check the bearings on the bed and the rail, there might be something stuck on one of the bearings or maybe even something on your rail. For your bed leveling i would say buy a BLTouch or a CR touch, it will save you a lot of leveling every time. You can also use some silicone pipe instead of springs If you will print mostly with TPU you should get the direct drive but keep an eye on your temp. You might need some better cooling to your hotend and on your print. There are tons of different coolingfans you can print yourself. It wont cost you to much and you can make it as you wish. Good luck.
Hello Dear Friend ! I have to ask you. if you can help me solve the problem that arose after replacing the motherboard on my 3d printer, in particular, the problem is: my old motherboard stopped working, it went bad and I bought a new Creality 4.2.2. this device has a processor with the number (in this order it is written): GD32F303 RET6 AUJO484 AZ2219 GIGADEVICE ARM I connected very correctly and carefully all the wires and turned it on after connecting. I checked and made test movements of the carriage and hot end, everything works well in this case, Z works well too, auto return home also works well, the mechanics are good. but as soon as I want to print something >>> only X and Y axis work well, Z does not work , does not rise up during printing, although the filament arrives and is printed on one layer, I do not understand and do not know how to fix this problem, the warranty period has passed because I have not been at home for a long time and the seller does not return it back.If you can help, or suggest where to look for a way out of this difficult situation, please help, I'm not strong in computers and programming so that I can flash "it" myself, that's why I turned to you with this request! I look forward to good news from you. BEST REGARDS, GEORGE!
Why don't they just add a small snap in metal stop for the rails.. why on earth would anyone want to by a solution that can fail just because their is no end stop.
Flex build plate, yes Linear rail xy, yes Linear rail z, unnecessary Microswiss direct drive, God NO! What a relic. So many better options. Dual z, yes. Bed probe, yes Lacking z frame braces and if your going to swap the bed caddy might as well go for a 3 point.
I am looking for a direct drive upgrade (including the mount) and noticed your comment about Micro Swiss's direct drive. What are the better options you suggest?
@@HighT3ch Depends on how hands on you are. Im personally using the HeroMe Gen 6 toolhead with an orbiter v1.5 and dragonfly BMS hotend. The HMG6 allows you to use a variety of direct drive extruders and hotend combinations for a range of printers. That's the hands on option. Bolt on... On the pricey side you have options from Bondtech. I have a copperhead hotend and it's fine. I do not own a LGX lite extruder but the general consensus is it's a very good extruder. E3d has the Hemera which I have no experience with but is supposed to be ok. BIQU has a clone of the Hemera which is much cheaper and also ok. There are many options. Depends on your budget and how hands on you are. When selecting, lighter weight toolhead should be as much an influence as the cost and reliability. No matter what you choose you will have more weight on the X gantry than you did with stock so I highly suggest you include a dual z upgrade in the switch to direct drive.
This is interesting, but total waste of money. I bought the Bambu Lab P1P printer for CAD$ 900/-. Corexy printer, plug and play, and prints 3 to 4 times faster than my Ender 3 V2. Excellent output all the time. Printed the enclosure with doors for $150/-.The Ender 3 cannot print at a higher speed or better with all the upgrades. My Ender 3 V2 prints good after attaching the CR touch unit, and using liquid glue Bed Weld for good adhesion at all times.
Upgrade list. 1. bi metal heartbreak 2. Klipper 3. Klackender 4. Orbiter with Orbiter filament sensor 5. Duel beltded z 6. uart mod to 4.2.2 motherboard 7 duel part cooling fan. cheaper and in my opinion best upgrades. Only thing needed to buy is Orbiter and filament sensor, a belted z motion kit, a second fan. And something to run klipler $300 maybe
Not trying to sound like a dick or anything But the amount of money you got tied up in the printer and the upgraded parts would it make sense just to buy a better quality printer with a larger bed. Those new rails I can imagine are taking away from your print size as well.
This seems like a complete headache to me No reason To be that difficult In my opinion why not put everything on the plate and just attach it to the rails
So you buy a 300 dollar printer and then install "upgrades" for more then 700 dollar?? You really like to trow your money away don't you ? Most of these "upgrades" are useless. If you spend that much money on mostly useless "upgrades" you better spend it on a better printer.
This is a waste of money. Could literally just buy a better printer for less.. This is like a Honda with VTEC... "C'mon kids, let's put lowering springs and a spoiler on it. It's gonna be so fast." All that aside, thanks for taking the time to make the video and at least help people learn.
Please quit saying vernier calipers. They are digital calipers. Being a machinist and quality manager the hardware upgrade would appear to be more robust and possibly better but being new to printing I would like to see the machine working and the yield from the update. Now if I was going to throw 1000$ to upgrade I would just buy a bigger better machine.
Please quit saying vernier calipers. They are digital calipers. Being a machinist and quality manager the hardware upgrade would appear to be more robust and possibly better but being new to printing I would like to see the machine working and the yield from the update. Now if I was going to throw 1000$ to upgrade I would just buy a bigger better machine.
