I had a LS Swap installed in a 1982 B-Body. Was running fine but I noticed erratic shifts in the transmission. Parked car and started it the next day and after idling for about 10 minutes it fell dead. Ever since, cranks over but no start. I have a fault code of p0122. Any help?
Yes. Replace or clean the TPS that your code PO122 is telling you is bad. You might also check the wiring going to the TPS and make sure there are no breaks or loose connections.
I have a 2008 Pontiac G8 GT....I'm going from the L76(LS2sort of) to a LS3.... The LS3 is a NEW FULLY EQUIPPED CRATE ENGINE.....Now my question is the L76 has a three prong Oil level sensor on the pan.... but the LS3 doesn't so do I need to swap the oil pans or can I just delete that sensor as I check my oil all the time because I'm a quarter mile racer
@@BadLuckGarage I swapped my L76 in my G8 GT for a LS3 motor.....Now my L76 motor had a sensor on the oil pan and the LS3 doesn't.....Do I have to swap oil pans or can I delete that sensor...... because my warranty is very tricky with certain things and I don't want to VOID it ....but naturally if I need it for my engine to function properly for my application... obviously they can't void my warranty... it's a Blueprint Engine part# PSLS376OCTF...... I looked up the G8 GXP LS3 MOTOR AND THAT LS3 HAS THE OIL SENSOR ON IT. WTHELL!!!!! If you can answer or help me with any of this I'll gladly appreciate it....Thanks
Glad to help brother! If you wanna help the channel and others who may be having similar issues, be sure to share this video on your favorite LS swap forum or Facebook group! Remember, when it comes to RU-vid, sharing is caring. 🤣👍🏻
There is an entire playlist of these LS Swap Tips and tricks videos on this channel. I would love to do more of these as they require no work and very little editing, lol. But the trade off is I’m not getting any work done on the project vehicles either. 😒 But if you’ve got any ideas for LS tech tips that I haven’t already covered please let me know and I’ll see what I can do about making a video.👍🏻
Bought a brand new GM Connect and Cruise L96 package, took our time installing, double checked everything and it would not fire. Watched your video and did not have cranking power, got that lined out and fired up immediately. Thank You so much!!! 1959 Chevrolet Apache truck now with all the new technolgy.
Wow… BLG… thanks bud! When I heard number #1 I thought…. Sounds crazy, but I’ll be dammed was exactly that. Ignition relays are overly complex on some vehicles. When you said switched 12v, I literally bought a push button switch…. SOB fired right up and then laughed at me.
Hey bud this is my first swap ls3 engine tr6060 transmission everything hooked up no start I was watching this video chech my power wire 21.5 voltage on start switch no start I have a black wire said start signal where I connect this wire to?
Good morning. I'm still a novice to LS Swapping. Engine won't start. I had my wife crank over the car while I tested the spark plugs and the injectors for voltage. All tested good. I have a 6.0L L96 Gen IV (Vortec) and a new ECM configured by a master Tuner friend to a 2009 Corvette ECM with VATS, flex fuel and VVT settings removed. I have this ECM setup because I"m using a Tremec T56 Magnum Six Speed. The engine started easily on half a crank about a month ago when I fired it up. Recently a Friend helped me with Dakota Digital Cruise control wiring, and now the engine won't start. I think I understand what you said about the 12 Volt ignition wiring test is verified with power to coils and injector when cranking. Now I'm at a loss. Thanks for all the information you share. Any thoughts/ideas where to look next?? Regards Matt Politzer.
I have a question, by the way your video was awesome. Here is my problem. Just put in a new wiring harness DBW in my LS swap 5.3 gen 1. The motor started DBW would not work. I am now at a point can’t get the motor to run and the relay going to the Coils is cycling off and on which is the reason the motor will not start. It was working but now not. I’ve checked all the grounds 5 times, voltage is correct, battery is at full charge, why would the relay be cycling and not staying on? That is my 1st question. The Second, why can’t I get my peddle to work? I know I have 12 volts to the correct wires, the throttle cycles on startup I have seen it move on start up and hear it when you turn the key on, but know communication with the peddle.
Very useful info. Especially the o2 making it run crap. Just incase this helps anyone. I’m in the process of fitting a ls1 and I spent a good few hours at the wkend trying to find a no spark and injector pulse issue. Finally I traced the wires from pcm and it turned out the cam and crank sensor plugs were the wrong way round. I was amazed that gm had made these two plugs the same. Surely I can’t be the only one this has happened to.
Most harnesses are laid out in such a way that its physically impossible for the cam sensor plug to reach the crank sensor location if everything else in plugged in BUT I've seen people try to install harnesses upside down, from the front, and do all kinds of other things so nothing really surprises me at this point.
Glad I ran across you. I just rebuilt my V8 vortec 6.0 in my 2003 Escalade Ext. Followed all torque specs put it together, primed the engine. Had good oil flow through all the pushrods. Closed it up installed all new sensors, new coils, new wires, new injectors. Hooked ut all up tried to start no start. No start. Got my OBD2 code reader had codes P0335 and P0336. Codes for crank shaft position sensor issues. Went and got the old crank sensor reinstalled it. Same problem. Called GM dealer ship about the Key got advice to use my fob to lock and unlock the doors. Did that. Tried to start. No start still but the codes went away. Mind you I did have spark I knkw because I had help checking fir it and the way I did it it shocked the hell out of me. And fuel pressure. That definitely isnt an issue because after trying to constantly start it and using starter fluid the fuel system became over pressurized and spurt fuel out from the regulator all over the place. I immediately removed the negative battery cable so it would stop. What happened there is it became over pressurized it forced the regulator out of place. Anyway after doing what the GM guy told me the P0335 and P0336 codes went away and for a few attempted starts ut stayed away. However now I get code P1626.... and the check engine light stays on but the security light isn't on. So now we still crank but no start. I also trued the sequence programing for vats but that's useless to me because the security light isn't on but maybe you know more and can help. However I still get that code P1626 crank and no start. Forgive me if I may have misunderstood something you said that may help but don't think I did and I don't want to sound redundant. But if you can help please do. Single mom trying to get my truck going again.... Thank you.
P1626 is a security code. It usually means that the body control module either isn’t communicating with the PCM or it isn’t seeing what it needs to see from the ignition switch and is telling the pcm not to fire the injectors. It’s possible that maybe you’ve dislodged a wire from a connector or have a loose ground somewhere that’s causing the problem. It’s also possible that your key needs to be reprogrammed to the BCM. There may be a hack to fix this but I don’t know it. The only two ways I know to get around this is to either take the vehicle to the dealership and let them reflash the BCM and reprogram you’re keys/fobs, or option b would be to find someone with HP Tuners and have them just disable your VATS completely. I usually deal with swap vehicles, not factory LS equipped vehicles with BCMs and I’m gonna be honest, if you have the VATS disables all together I’m not sure how all that will work out with the BCM since it’s a factory application. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help but like I said, I really don’t have much experience with this exact issue. 🤷🏼♂️
@@BadLuckGarage No worries. I appreciate your response.... On GM trucks from some time up to 2007 they had standard Keys but they did have the Vats system where whenever Vats was activated you have to do a relearn procedure for passkey ( no transponder ).... Just thought id share what I learned...lol. Feel like im going to GM school of hard knocks....
Hey what's up bro I did everything that you said in your video and my car still won't start I got power at the coil pack power at the injectors why cranking the key over is just cranking not starting
Hey buddy I done a swap my car was running fine and driving fine till one day I started it and it ran and cut off. I have a Holley terminator that I changed the relay cause it was wet and it ran again and now it's doing it again and I changed the relay but still want run and we're getting plenty of fuel
Just a quick note finally figured it out it was another ground bottom front on cross member single black outside harness not the one that goes to lights must be 5-6 different grounds wow thanks
Ok i have a 2006 silverado single cab and it had a 4.3l v6 with a 4l60e. Well transmission went out pulling a vehicle on a trailer so i said why not do a motor, harness,ecm and transmission all in one because i bought a 04 4.8l motor with transmission and complete harness and ecm. Sorry so long but the best way to explain it and thanks for your patience. So the v6 naturally having DBC and my new v8 is DBW and went back and got the tach module, fuel peddle and wire and for a little more air flow i bought a Trailblazer SS intake manifold witch is basically stock. I install all of it and is beautiful but when i crank it it clicks the low beam relay. So i got a no start no crank but when i pull the starter relay and use a short wire i can crank it up. And one more thing i am getting a high beam light in the cluster and there is nothing on and no key in the truck when it sets a little wile. If you could answer this would be great because this truck is my livelihood and feeds everyone because it takes me to work and now in a rut and thanks in advance
Well all be #1 problem fixed here! Stumbled on this video on the crapper watching about vats. Reminds me of the hot wire for older coils but the opposite, run while cranking and die after letting off key.
My son put a 2009 engine in his 1994 Silverado. Vats off. Tuned computer from my 2001 2500hd engine was in. Engine was cranking Ng and running. They plugged my other son's OBD2 reader in and now it won't crank at all and fuel pump stays on.
L98 into a Landcruiser, the E38 ecm has vats deleted, but not the clutch pedal interface. Donor car had the clutch position switch. Not needing it on the cruiser Do I need to get it deleted . Injectors not firing , power to them but not working. Yes have constant power to ecm when cranking.Cheers
Have my bmw e60 ls swap.... was running with low fuel pressure issues.... got that fixed now at 58psi but now it will only crank and not start... any suggestions would be appreciated.... going to start going thru all wiring to see if any damage or loose connections
So I have a 71’ cj5 with a 5.3 and while it’s cranking its not getting spark 90% of the time because sometimes it will get spark and try to fire up but dies agin and just sits there and cranks, it used to start with no issue and for context it has been mudding and gotten wet and after that seems to be when the problem started
Speed shop doing my swap keeps having new problem every week Claiming Crank no start and no communication to the obd port Ls swap in a 78 scout Has run many times (supposedly) story after story on this swap from him
Great video! I have a 5.3l LM7 DBW swap with standalone harness into a 1990 350 TBI truck. Turns over, but no start. - Checked grounds on frame to block, back of heads, and at relay/fuse box. (Yes, should and will consolidate grounds). All grounds are good. - VATS confirmed to be deleted with ‘write entire’ on HPTuners. - Have 12 volts to all pink wires on injectors and coils when key on and during cranking. Coil voltage drops to 11 volts when cranking. (Used a battery jump box to ensure good cranking power) - Checked all 8 injectors with impulse light. All fire off. - Checked spark at spark plug boot connection. All spark. - 55psi fuel with key on, drops a few psi when cranking. Any help is much appreciated!
So it sounds to me like I’m having the number one issue you described. Did a Gen 4 swap on a 2010 chevy 1/2 ton. Did a full delete kit on dod/afm. Can’t find any ground issues or connection issues. No spark on no 1 or no 3 cylinders definitely had help to do that. The guy who did the ecm delete for the dod/afm read smog, throttle body, cam position, traction/ stable trac control codes and they wouldn’t clear. Cranks and cranks but no fire. I’m lost. Don’t know where to start. Cleaned some grounds and now only reads limited power on the dash but that’s in my shop without a reader. Still no spark.
I swap a 5.3 from a 2008 Chevy Tahoe in to a Chevy 1500. Grounds everything is hooked up. Turn the key lights everything comes on but it won't click or turn over.
Hi I keep blowing a fuse that stops one side of engine, had mechanic check it, he couldnt find the problem, he put bigger fuse in and its working right now, what could fix this problem? Thank you
@badluckgarage I recent swapped my 5.3 ls with the 6l80 into my 2008 which I'm sure you know had the 4l60. In this swap I also swapped harness ecm PCM cluster steering column with ignition and halo. Also added the in line fuel pressure which is working . Checked things you mentioned in this video no luck. We are getting no crank no start and when we try to start keep blow the 2 amp dlis fuse. Cleaned and re did grounds. Still no luck. Any ideas where to go from here? Also worth mentioning we are getting some communication with vehicle as in it recognizes it's the 2011 Silverado but it doesn't see vin and only code we can see is the u0100 code at a lost lmao
hi my name is brendan I am from Ireland and recently purchased a z28 with a C5 LS it was starting, recently restored with a terminator X system, getting petrol but no spark, can you help me please. many thanks
Ok see if you can figure this out my LS swap in my truck it runs great even when it warms up but when you turn it off it don't like to start back up and you have to hold the gas paddle down and it starts and it stumbles a few seconds and the it runs just fine not showing any codes I am running k&n filter that's all I could get to fit under my hud of my truck
Need some help did a LS Swap cant get it to fire up...tps is at 0%, crank sensor is reading i have fuel pressure coil have 12v with Key on but drop to 9.5v - 10v when cranking would that be the issue?
Man that’s the nail on the head before I started tuning I was so dumb to how smart these pcms are or how much of a pain they are as well lol I would never think to put it in open loop I mean that’s how we tune fueling duh wouldn’t dawn on me with the fresh air so close to your o2s the STFT would freak out thank you brother GOD BLESS.
Yea we tend to overlook things sometime. If you go back and watch the exhaust video in the DR Nova playlist I was like “what the hell is going on!!??” I actually at one point mention that it could be because of the open headers but then I was like naw, it’s gotta be something else. Damn thing started running so crappy we were barely able to limp it off the trailer. They finished building the exhaust, I reset the LTFTs and BOOM it was running great. Sometimes second guessing myself all the time is a course. 🤦🏼♂️
Bad Luck Garage yeah I want to say it’s happen to me as well but I just below it off and finished assembling everything lol so I’m thinking that exactly what it was
Can you help me out I have the same problem but I'm trying to get a better understanding of it so I can see if I was close of understanding it better..
Okay on mine I still have the V6 batter cable goes to the alternator but it's short for the V8 I add a other batter cable with a fuse in-between and ran it to the battery fuse box bolt...
I’ll be checking the first especially. Another question: I checked fuel pressure and gauge shows ~65 PSI. Does this make sense? Will it go down once the motor starts?
Sounds like you’re overrunning the regulator. I’ve done videos on this. Usually when people try to run too large of a pump with a C5 corvette filter/regulator setup. They’re only rated for 255LPH max. So if you’re running a larger pump than that it will overrun and cause excessively high fuel pressure. In the video to demonstrate I used a Walbro 450 pump with the vette filter/ regulator and it ran it all the way up to almost 75psi. Not good for the pump or the regulator.
@@BadLuckGarage - I’m running a Walbro GSL 392 external pump (255 LPH, I think). The motor, 5.3 Vortec, was built by a shop and has the stock regulator and fuel rail. I thought 58 PSI was more of what I should be expecting. Could the regulator be bad? Any way to adjust, or “unstick it” if possible?
Didnt know you had to do a write entire for VATS delete, gonna try that as soon as I have a free second. Also going to confirm that I have power to the injectors and coil with my noid lights too
Older guys huh I drove 50 &60's I'm working on a lt1 swap in a rat rod. I got c.a.t.s. Tuner and I'm hoping I can get in to shut vats off. I didn't realize if your bypass isn't right it will lock you out for 5min. I've got to check the power to injectors on cranking. I've found broken wires, left off computer grounds. But the BCM isn't isn't there to check for vin number. I thinks vats disable is my best chance. I do have spark so that's good.
Amazing Video!!! I have a slightly different situation that you might be able to help me with. I removed and reinstalled my LS3 engine into the same car, 2014 Camaro SS. Everything is hooked back up but we are not getting any crank. We put the key in and we get power but when we go to start it, everything shuts off. We benched the starter and it is good to go. We will look into "checking for power at the coils and fuel injectors while we are cranking but do you have any other troubleshooting ideas we can try?
Great video. I have an issue with fuel. No fuel getting to the rail. Checked pcm not sending power to fuel relay. Fuel pump not getting power. Any idea ? Have an aftermarket Chinese harness.
I would start by by checking the signal wire for the fuel pump relay and making sure they put it in the correct pin of the PCM connector. I’ve never used one of the China harnesses but I have heard of people having issues with some of them being pinned incorrectly. You can download a wiring diagram for free at LT1 swap.com but the China harnesses aren’t color coded to GM spec so you’ll also need a multimeter to double check that the signal wire going to the fuel pump relay is the same wire at the pcm connector.
What ypu think my problem is on mine i don't have power to my fuel pump I have power to all my terminals and fuses and my other relays get power when I turn my ignition key but no the fuel relay looks like the ecm not sending the signal to that relay and also I can't connect to the check engine port I have power to it bc my scan tool lights up but can make a connection with ecm ..I sent it to make the vats deleted and that
im having an issue, i hooked purple wire up to starter about 2 weeks ago and the 3 red wires from bulkhead in s10 and got motor to turn over perfectly, today i went to try and start and actually hook all the rest of the fuse box power wires an everything up, but something happened, where now the purple wire has power all the time, key on or off and even key out of the ignition and it will bot engage the starter and i dont know why it has power constantly now
Thanks for posting this video, I’m swapping a 2004 GTO 356 LS1 into a 67 Camaro. I had no spark. I traced the power wires from the coils to a mystery plug… Ended up Having no juice to the coils. Once I hot wired the coils the engine fired right up. Hope this helps the rest of you.
Checked all those and still nothing...changed crank sensor to and still nothing...used jumper wires on my coil grounds to battery And still nothing...can cam sensor do it...no spark
I heard If your running it on a stand, you attach all the pink wires together and orange wires are constant hot, I did this and still isn't firing up, I got good grounds, I got spark on the plugs when turning over but won't fire up
I can actually cover that very quickly. If you are actually racing with a 4L60 then I don’t recommend changing much in the tune at all. What I recommend is installing a shift kit to address the mechanical deficiencies in the transmission, then in the tune disable torque management and zero out the shift speed tables so the transmission will shift as quickly as it possibly can. DO NOT play with the shift pressure tables. The shift kit and the pcm will take care of deciding line pressure. Hell I may just make a video about installing a shift kit vs tuning the shifts. Thanks for the idea!👍🏻
Do have any videos on 4l60e trans not shift from 2nd to 3rd ...my old trans did it I bought a brand new one and the new one is doing the exact same thing..
If the brand new one has the same problem then it’s either your shift settings in the tune or a wiring issue. Make sure your transmission harness is pinned correctly, you’ve got 12 bolts going to the shift solenoids, and your grounds are good.
where do I get the 12volt ignition from? I think this is my problem. I don't have a HEI lead. I have installed a custom harness and there are no other wires in my vehicle yet.
Doing a 4.3to6.0 ls swap I had the computer for the 6.0ls went to go take it to get it done or whatever and put it on and doesn’t turn on and all it does is make a click noise so not getting any relay or idk I put a 5.3 one on and it turns on I’m confused now so at this moment I went to go get it done again and I’ll see what happens any tips tho cause I refurbished the block and put everything I mean everything brand new just a stock intake and stock headers atm and stock 4l60e cause moneys tight
Thank you sir! This is my first swap and my issue was the very first issue you said to check! Ran the correct wire and it started right up! Much appreciated!
Hey what’s up bro how you doing my LS swap won’t start I got power at the coils on the keys turned on position I got power acting injectors where do I have to turn the key over to see if the coil packs and stuff are getting power or just on to the on position I want to 87 Camaro third GEN
Good video. I understand that the grounds for the harness go to the heads. Where should the ground from the battery go and what other grounds need to be add? Are they ran in series?
I always do battery to frame, battery to engine, battery to chassis, and engine to chassis. It’s a little overkill but I never have grounding issues that way.
Hey so i have a 2005 silverado that was a v6 and i put a 2002 engine in it. Im going to do a drive by cable should i use the 2005 harness or a 2003 and under harness?thanks
I just changed my cam timing belt and oil pump on my 06 GTO now the car don't want to start some times it will start on the first try other the care will keep cranking but won't start and I have a cam position code any thoughts
Hey man I watched ur video and I’m not having any of those problems with my ls , I swapped it into my 04 GMC Sierra and it was running with the dbw setup but I mounted the gas pedal to the floor and it turns the lights on the dash but hit the key to start it and ever goes off but the cats light and the check engine light .. honestly I’m stumped
Did a 76 Blazer 5.3 swap. Stock harness drive by wire. Runs for 3 seconds. has open stock manifolds. 02 sensors not hooked up yet. Is this why it stops? Thank you
So my key on ignition is getting power to ignition with key on but no fuel pump prime with new relay I didn’t bother checking anything else yet grounds grounded shop that deleted vats an I trusted them an I’ve used them before in past builds so I’m checking my part but I’m starting to lean towards this shop didn’t delete my vats which is shitty I’ll find out tomorrow also it’s dbw an I have no tb control pedal is dead
Turbo lq4 with a 4l80e swapped in with the l59 flex fuel harness. Currently the truck will run, but quickly goes into limp mode and the throttle plate only actuates to 27%. When the key is on and the car is not running, the throttle plate has full actuation. Any ideas?
I have a gen 4 5.3 that I pulled from a Yukon xl that I put in my 09 single cab Sierra and I haven’t been able to turn it over or even connect to the ecm. And the throttle body doesn’t open up. I ordered a brand new wiring harness hoping this fixes it and gives the engine power. Are you able to give me any word of advice when I get it re wired up?
