🎥 What to Watch Next: 3 Ways to Make Picture Frames - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pYapIIF0FtU.html Simple Table Saw Sled with FREE Plans - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XebIOAaPhhU.html Modern Desk with Hidden Cable Management - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n2iog90HFsE.html
You should always angle your cuts just a hair off 45 so that when assembling the box, the tips of the outer corners touch first. Clamping pressure will then ensure a perfect fit, and also accommodate some future shrinkage. Great video!
@@lukeritchie8080 slightly less than 45 degrees, so like 44.9. At about 1:13 in the video Brad illustrates this: with an angle less than 45 degrees, the outside edge touches before the inside edge, so the gap is hidden inside the box, which is better to the alternative where the gap is on the outside.
@@maireadshaw5467 that's a really good tip. I will be making some 3x3" post for the end of an island and inside joint will never be seen, so this makes perfect sense to guarantee a perfect fit along the edges.
As a journeyman redseal joiner in British Columbia, not that means anything at all. But from a fellow professional I love your videos. You explain everything perfectly and accurately. Most importantly, why you're doing it that way. Kudos.
I mean... I've been slowly trying to learn woodworking for years and watching videos on it for almost as long and this dude just drops some awesome knowledge I've never heard super casually.
The #1 thing that every woodworker needs most is a nice bright open workshop like shown here. Fantastic! (I will not have that unless I hit the lottery).
Great video, really helpful. Just the right amount of detail. Now trying to work out if I can use a router to make the splice notch as I don’t have a table saw. Thanks for the video!
Nice video. All steps explained clearly and concisely. I have avoided using internal splines because they looked so iffy when it come to fit. Now to go try them. However, the most helpful hint I found was how to check for 45deg using the square. So easy! Why didn't I think of that? Thank you and keep up the good work.
I've recently retired and I'm gradually building up a workshop. But I live in the rural wilds of southern France so having neighbours or friends to help me learn isn't likely. These teaching and tips videos are a very welcome lifeline to me. Keep them coming. But a suggestion... how about routing hints 'n tips. I' m looking to buy a twin base router - fixed base in a stand and plunge for other work. I've never had one before so help here would be appreciated. Oh, and I've been a subscriber for a while and clicked 'notifications' so I get all your output.
I’m a cabinet installer and love this idea, however I think I will stick with going 45 1/4*. This way I won’t get the little gaps. I’m always working with finished materials.. I really think this is going to be a game changer. Thanks
Great video! I'm planning a fancy box I'll be building and have been debating what to do about the corners, and now I've decided this is what I'm gonna do! 😁 👍
To avoid a gap on the outer corners; don't try to set the table saw to exactly 45° but to a small fraction over 45° (about 45¼°). This will move any gaps to the inside corner. They will be much less visible but they will still be small enough that they will close up when the box is glued and clamped.
Some good tips here, thanks. I'll share that i find if you use a flat-topped blade to make the bevel cuts, especially on plywood, you get better fitting mitered edges than using an ATB blade. It's hard to see, but the ATB blades leave a similar uneven edge cut to what you saw at the bottom of the spline cuts, making the edges less likely to close up nicely.
really enjoy watching your videos. Always informative and easy to understand. How would you secure a notched end (like a birds mouth, used at the bottom ends of 2 sets of crossed/scissor legs) to a square piece of wood running horizontal from one set of legs to the other set of legs on the opposite side) Wish I could send a photo.
You speak very quickly and it’s impossible for me to understand because i’m a real french man and logically my English is limited. Thank’s for sharing you work very well Sam 💚 Pyrénées
I made L shaped wood pieces to protect the corners when clamping. You can make them out of 8/4 hardwood, or you can glue two 1x2"s together with a 45 degree bevel on one side. Then I just cut the long L shaped piece into short 1 1/2" long pieces to use on corners. That way you can use any ratchet strap to clamp with. Using painter's take to hold them to the strap until tightening helps if you don't have a helper.
I know this is an older video. When using ratchet straps or a web clamp, you can also pull in your corners with pieces of pvc with a quarter of the round cut out of it, or simply fold a small piece of cardboard around the corner before setting the clamp.
For these types of miter joints try the parallel spline miter. The saw blade stays at 90 deg for the spline slot and you can clamp in just one direction. This only works with plywood but is a great joint.
Except that the whole point of mired plywood in modern furniture is continuity of the plies, which the splines destroy. Wonder if you could do this with a stop groove?
To avoid gaps showing. When cutting miters go just make sure to cut just hair shy of 45 .. this way if there is a gap it will be on the inside not showing
Brad, thanks for the videos, tips, and all you do. Now for the question... on your desk how did you run the long top that was much wider than it was long to cut the spline on the mitered edge? I have a similar sized build but I want to make the cut safely on the table saw.
