In this video I re-assemble the engine, torque the main and rod bearings and head and time the engine. Basically get everything ready to re-install in the tractor.
Yeah, the basic design came out with the B250s in 1958 or 59 then was changed a little with the B275/B414 and then was built til 1982 with a few minor tweaks. Thanks for watching!
Hello Canadian Redneck, following the videos on the channel, I really like mechanics of old tractors, and whenever I can I follow your work. . This way Jose Goncalves,City Bagé, RS, Brazil, Border with Uruguay, campaign region and plantations with many tractors and agricultural machines. Cultivated crops, irrigated rice, corn, soybeans, sorghum and pasture for livestock.
@@CanadianRedneck15 I didn't read the manual - I watched Canadian Redneck build an engine a few years back and did exactly what he did and it has worked a treat. Thanks for another great video.
There are two problems you need to keep an eye out for with these engine blocks. Firstly, if you get water in the sump, it is coming between the liner and the block. The blocks are known to corrode heavily in this area to the point of the metal above the seal groove disappearing completely. You should always use a corrosion inhibiting coolant to prevent this from happening. Secondly, the block can and do crack in the very thin area between the liners on the block face. This is not ideal but I have never had it cause a problem. Obviously when fitting new liners, make sure the recesses are perfectly clean so the liner sits down properly. Always check the head is flat and my preference is to use the composite head gasket rather than copper.
Hey MB, we're doing well, hope you and your family are well also. Agreed, both our countries are in a bad way right now! YT is weird about notifications sometimes, make sure they are still turned on.
Thanks Dave for another great video, you said you pressure washed the block clean, what about the oil passages in the block did you just blow them out with the pressure washer or did you use a nylon brush first, just wondering how you went about it , then i take it you dry every thing off with compressed air after washing
I washed the outside of the block because of the oil leaks and the water jacket to clear out the sediment. No water in the oil passages, I don't want to chance any being left in there. THanks for watching!
Love watching your videos. I recently purchased a 1970 IH 2444 industrial, and haven't been able to find many videos on it but I've been watching your videos on the 444 and they seem to be quite similar. I do have a question about the hydraulic reservoir, mine is leaking a little where the cover meets the base. Does it take a gasket or just silicon? Also can I just remove and replace it without too much trouble? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think you want to take a check on the o-rings on some of the valves etc. on the lift unit because there should be nothing to leak between iot and the differential case. Thanks for watching!
Great video Dave. Just a couple of questions. Should the sleeve be a few thousands above the block or just level. And the lower oil ring below the piston pin or I call it wrist pin, what is the purpose of this ring. My 1951 TEA 20 Ferguson tractor, gasoline powered, had that when I did it over. Normally only one oil ring, above the piston pin, in any thing I’ve put rings in. Nice summer day in this video, come on spring. Have a good day.
As I recall the manual calls for .003-.007" above the block for these sleeves. Each engine is different and would have their own spec. It's pretty common on industrial type engines, especially low rev engines, to have a second oil ring towards the bottom of the piston. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thanks for the information. Do you carry parts or attachments for garden tractors. Case 446 model for one. I’m in PEI and have 11 garden tractors and the TEA20 Ferguson.
Great video, how difficult is it to find a machine shop to do the head and crankshaft now? Here in eastern Ontario a lot of the machine shops are closing as the older owners are retiring. On my Dad’s farm we had from 1962 to 1992 three tractors with IH BD-154 engines, very reliable engines but glow plugs were not the best to start in the winter, always had to use a block heater. I hear now the glow plugs can be replaced with a new fast heat versions from a Mercedes Diesel and are wired in parallel not series like the old ones.
We have a very good engine shop in my local town so no problems there, just have to wait as they are quite busy! The 414s were pretty cold blooded but with the 434s they made the intake valves larger and that improved the cold starting quite a bit. Our 444 and 384 would start to -25C with just the original glow plugs. Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave, Steve here in Rhode Island with a 354 and fuel pump issues we have discussed. Another issue has come up. When we removed the fuel pump one of the studs was stripped. In the photo 1st photo you see here of this video, you holding a gear in your hands and you can see the 3 large flat rear ends of those 3 studs that fasten the pump... My question is: are these welded or Is it possible for me to remove one by pounding or pressing it out? If I took the long route it would involve removing the better part of the front of the tractor and motor and potentially heading to the machine shop. Any suggestion would be more than helpful. Thanks! always enjoy and rely on your excellent videos!
I believe the studs are welded in place but you should be able to knock one out and weld in another one.Realistically 2 studs should be enough to hold the pump.
The B616 wouldn't be a B614 by any chance? If you look the web there is quite a bit out there about the B614 and the 634 they had a 4 cylinder engine like the earlier b450 - possibly the same block?? Do you have any photos of your tractor or video? I'd love to see it.
I have a 444 that leaks oil from the front of the engine. I think it must be the crank seal. Is it possible to replace it without taking off the whole front of the tractor? Basically just take off radiator, fan pulley, alternator pulley and lastly the timing cover that holds the offending seal; correct? If that's about it I might have a fighting chance. Thanks for the educational series!
hello I just bought one of these getting oil out the top pipe my guess thats where i suppose to put the oil in and smoke what could cause this help please not even a day in
@@jaquial.shedmccrary2055 I suggest you contact the seller right away and let them know about the issue. The pipe should have a cap that filters out the oil mist that tries to escape under normal operation. I think it might look worse than it is if you are missing the cap or the filter elements in the cap. Worst case I guess it could be a stuck or bent valve, but I'm just a hobbyist.
@@jaquial.shedmccrary2055 It could be that tha crankcase vent is plugged, the small black plastic tube going from the front timing cover to the intake manifold. Make sure it is clear and re-assess. Realistically it is likely that you are looking at excessive blowby caused by worn/damaged rings or a broken piston. Thanks for watching!
Dave I have a question I own a int 464 with d179 diesel eng I let my neighbor replace seals on my injection pump the real small ones for fuel on lever an shutdown I noticed it's hard to start now an when it does start when I pull down on throttle it's very slow responding like it's starving for fuel I would like yur opinion I noticed the little levers are splined on one end could he have turned on shafts an didn't realize it or am I way off base
The ones with a start position on the shut-off lever if it's out of adjustment and doesn't shut the fuel all the way off will sort of flood and be hard to start and smoke and puke when you open the throttle until it cleans out the extra fuel. Thanks for watching!
can you please help me i have ih 795 i just rebuild the engine but i missed up the timing gear the engine run smooth but very smoky blue smoke can you please tell me the injection pump in wich number i put it in the gear and thank you
If these pumps are out even 2 or 3 degrees they won't start so you must have it on the right number. You will have to get a manual and follow the instructions for setting the pump timing, it's a little complicated. Thanks for watching!
