In this video, we’re gonna finish assembling the differential and put it on the rear case. And as always work safe have fun and I’ll talk to you soon. Jim. 
Jim, I just want to send a big thank you for all these great videos. I have watched most of them, and they gave me the confidence to jump in, and do several repairs to the 23 series Snapper I inherited from my father. While he was diligent in the yearly maintenance on this machine, it definitely needed some repairs. With your video help, I was able to replace the bushings in the steering, and am happy I got to it when I did, as the bushings were completely shot. The tie rods and spindles are ok, but I may opt to swap those out this coming winter. I also rebuilt the entire mower deck, and again, your videos were excellent in their help. I feel so confident in what I've learned from you, that I am contemplating buying some Snapper Mowers I may find, and fix them up to sell. If I decide to start doing that, I may be interested in purchasing the tool you build to set the bearings in the front wheels, as I feel that would be better than using a socket as a substitute.
Jim, thanks for doing this and all your past videos on Snappers. I have learned alot about Snappers over the years through your videos. I can totally understand your frustration on the situation but I hope (as well as others I'm sure) that you continue to do them, where would we be without ya👍
Jim, what you need to do shipping that thing back to him when you slip it off of there have you 2/4” One on the top one in the middle in your spacer bar, you’re gonna put on man if you just take just run you some small wood screws flat washer it that’ll suck that thing up tight for shipping that tube off. Leave your bar off it won’t fit they did not put them on tell early 80s
Jim, I love your videos, and I love you! You're extremely entertaining and I have learned a wealth of information about Snapper mowers from you. I truly don't know what I would do with my evenings if you ever stopped doing your videos. I understand your frustration with the whole Google thing, looks like with all the money they're making they could share some for the effort. Keep Snappin' brother, keep Snappin'! Thank you just doesn't do justice!
That's great that you take the time to do these videos. we thank you. There was a video where you mentioned, that someone contacted you that used to work at snapper. And if he he ever got back to you & sent you that info on dates/ changes/ ect. that you would post it in an a Video, It was about helping identify the age of your snapper comet. If there a certain video # where you did that? I would like to watch it Everyone is always talking about there snapper being a series this or that or before the series started series zero ect for a while doing research I thought the series mentioned when reading the front cover of a snapper repair manual.
Oh man.. I'm sure i scraped most of the old gasket off .. but i also know i used a Scoth-brite pad wheel to clean the rest off. Man, i had no idea they were asbestos
That stock spreader bar is more like a draw bar. It bends so easily if you hit one hump or stump and and your rear alignment is gone.. I am thinking of useing a thicker heavier duty bar with a pipe on it that can roll around the spreader bar.
When you were working on the wiring on the 33” you had a wire that goes to the bowl of the carburetor can you tell me what that wire is for because my newer one has it but my older one doesn’t and I haven’t had this newer one very long.can you help me please, thanks Jim
Your newer machines have a solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor that shuts off the gas so if your float sticks, it won’t flood your cylinder and your oil, your older machines didn’t have that and a lot of people just put in a manual shut off valve in the gas line. Jim
Jim, I have a Snapper model 28106s 28",10hp rear engined rider . I bought used. From the time I first started using it when I lifted the pedal as l engage the clutch, it would practically do wheel stands. I replaced the driven wheel because of the rubber surface spalling away. I have used it for a long time mowing and pulling my Baggin' Wagon. The other day, to get rid of old grease and oil in the area underneath the engine, I power washed the area with just water. Now, the transmission slips. More forward than in reverse. I replaced the thrush washer. No cure. I understand how it all works mechanically. What happened?
You may have gotten some oil or grease on your rubber clutch disc or the drive plate on the bottom of the engine. Try cleaning them both off with some acetone.
Thank you for your suggestions. I sincerely appreciate them. After looking at the yoke , I am replacing the yoke, roller , driven wheel and the yoke bearing. I rebuilt the bag-n- wagon and It works amazingly well.
When I inspected the drive components, I found that a 2nd stock yoke spring had been added. There was no opportunity to "feather" the clutch engagement . Take care.
It’s obvious you like turning wrenches, but uncle Arthur (arthritis) is going to be visiting your wrists before long. I don’t mind watching you use some more modern battery powered nut turners. Just saying….
