4L30E Rebuild On/Off Lock Up 

I use a large prybar to get it out. They do make a special tool for it or I have seen guys use a large bolt screwed into it. Unfortunately I don't know what size it is. But the prybar works well for me. Rock it back and forth and it will pop out.

Glad it helped.

It is a lifesaver.

Thanks for watching. May He bless you as well.

We use Transtar or WIT for soft parts, links are in the description of every video. For hard parts we use local suppliers or Slauson's Transmission Parts out of Chicago. For torque converters we use Precision of New Hampton. There are 2 different versions of this transmission. On/Off lock up and PWM lock up. If it is on/off there will be a capsule with a ball in the end of the input shaft. If it is pwm it will be hollow. They take different torque converters. There are 2 different kits that I put in. Transgo has a kit with a bushing for the center support SK4L30-E, I do the bushing only no drilling. Superior has a Kit for the servo and valve body K4L30-E. I do everything in it except for installing the springs they provide. I put new shift solenoids and the band solenoid in every rebuild. Use quality solenoids, factory if possible, don't do Rostra solenoids. New pump bushing and usually a band also. Then whatever else it needs.

Thank you.

Yes, you need to get the thin ones and then you will come out correct. That is the only difference in the kit so don't worry that maybe there will be something else different. Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Glad they help. They all have a washer between the drum and housing. It is selective. It is how the end play is set in the rear unit.

All the numbers are gone off of it now. Been so long I don't remember where I got it. Thought maybe Atec Transtool but I looked on their site and I don't see it, so probably Transtar.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission alright Sir

There are a couple of ways to do it. You can remove the tabs from the washers or machine grooves so the tabs have somewhere to sit. Or you can replace them with bearings if you are able to machine the parts. Here is an article for you. www.transmissiondigest.com/part-ii-more-4l30-e-problems-lots-more/

24004EF

Yes. And both input and output should turn independent of each other.

Awesome thing thanks for the quick reply kudos on the videos you have posted up I like the way you work

Thanks

I have not had good luck with the brown ones. I would get a black if you can. Transtar usually has the black ones, WIT tends to have the brown ones.

Question or comment?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission question

I ended up getting parts from one end of country to the other, converter from Canada, almost new trans just hope no problems.

Yes

The book calls for 5. That is too loose for me. I usually end up around 4 to 4 1/2 turns. You want to be able to turn the band drum by hand, so loosen it just until you are able to do that.

Thanks for making sense of my phone changing my text

I prefer Raybestos or Borg Warner. Alto as a last resort. Have had too many variations in thickness with Alto.

Thanks for answering so quickly

Try Bishop's, link is in the description.

If you used the black spring in the kit you need to take it back out. If not I would take the other springs out that it had you put in and see how it works.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hello. Thanks for the info king. i will try as soon as possible

@@CurmudgeonTransmission hello. no black string. I did not use this spring as it is a reminder to use it for heavy duty in the instruction.

I imagine way easier once fluid inside

These turn fairly easily. Should be able to turn it by hand.

Sounds like the band is burned. Did you put the Superior kit for the servo? What was your adjustment on the band? I do not set mine at 5 turns as the book says, I usually end up at 4 to 4&1/2 turns but every once in a while it is at 5. Usually what happens is the servo bore is worn and causes leaks there, the bushing is worn in the support for the third drum, the band adjustment is off or a bad band solenoid. Did you replace the 2 shift solenoids and the band solenoid? Use good quality solenoids not cheap after market solenoids. In order to put the bushing in the support you will need a press. If you put in the Transgo bushing and the Superior kit DO NOT DRILL the holes in the Transgo kit. You can only do drilling for one kit. Hope you get it figured out.

Tks for responding Mr Tom! I dint use the superior kit ! In fact I don even know the name of all parts in the housing! Can you help me find a diagram of the “all tranny interior parts” I’m taking some weeks off on this project because I ended up so tired and sore of all the work done!

Before you go pulling it out you might want to scan the system for codes. If you do not have a scanner most Autozone's will scan it for free if you can get it there. Go to either ATSG ( Automatic Transmission Service Group ) or ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association ) to the bookstore and they will have a manual on this transmission, probably your best bet.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much Mr Tom ! For helping us with your valuable time! I will check that! Tks A lot Again!

2nd trans isn’t a 4l30e

Not sure what you mean by level. I set mine between 4 and 4-1/2. I loosen it until I can turn the drum by hand and it usually ends up in that area.

I guess the snap ring that holds cover is not level, I thought I miss set

It does sit at a slight angle.

Well with all your help trans work flawlessly, thanks so much

Glad to help.

No. You either have a 2-3 solenoid that is stuck on or something wrong with the 3rd drum.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks, changed solenoids, drum got hot, makes decision to get one easier thank you

Once I disassembled 3rd drum bevle plate in upside-down. Thank you a ton

And there are 6 clutches installed

Usually the plate being upside down will give a firm 2-3 shift, but glad you found it.

Dr. Tranny (Lubegard) Blue & Green

Thanks

Extremely brutal shifts are what you will get. You won't like it.

Sounds like you may have a cracked 2nd gear drum. They like to crack where the washer rides on the front.

Thanks for the quick response. I visually inspected it when putting it together and I didn't see any cracks with the naked eye.

I understand that the 2nd gear clutch is also necessary for the operation of the 3rd gear. My 3rd gear does its job perfectly well. I think if the 2nd drum was cracked, it would also affect the 3rd gear

I have not set the indexing on the planetary gearing. could this be relevant? or does it just make assembly easier?

It needs to be indexed. Usually it will not assemble with it out of sync but if it did you would cause damage.

I'm ment bushing

If the drum is worn on the top usually what happens is the plastic washer breaks. The drums are also prone to cracking in the area where the washer rides. The ring gear being hard to get out means the drum is warped in some way. I would replace the drum.

Thank you kind sir

I figured out, burr got in end piece insert wouldn't slide all the way in

I like the Superior better. I only use the bushing for the support out of the Transgo kit.

Thanks

2 in the main case. 1 in the overdrive case ONLY if you have 2 holes in the plate. 1 in the valve body. www.ebay.com/itm/116096410998?itmmeta=01HSBXG8KS64V99HE6SHA1E5QS&hash=item1b07e2a576:g:4qYAAOSwXG5l7AtO&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8BMTeEh6pNP1EV9q9dcrj1Z%2FVmR5bl%2BeH8%2BfnEl55K8GM6nrtkzg6ym5pc4tXDZa17pEE6jfky8IWju3uck0zA2PBJImUJLVz1csIETg8qCm7CYazZkxEgZdPWILVgjygvf0du%2BB7xGk%2FjPwVVb%2F45jTHRewVIL3AcZeBT0cJOkktHmMuY3sShVYzxBSQe4aFVl2%2FmsPnWTUAyTeCgoQhHLkzO45lLRpG4FM8n%2BFKHjyF2FTWFKEM6xW13UyOl1VBO4bdc%2FMdSH0SPcgYo%2BN6Fh2FblnJxcA6F6IBguOVRmPG1ARs8vvwQELTqkPo3UWUA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_6Jwf3KYw

@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for all your help, been challenging to get all parts quickly

Parts are a big problem right now.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission that pump alignment tool, Transgo kit has looks smaller than yours, do you know who made yours?

There are no markings on it, but I want to say Atec Transtool. www.toolsource.com/trans-pump-alignment-c-1321_119_134/gm-converter-housing-to-front-pump-alignment-tool-180-82-up-p-111079.html

There is more to a drum being bad than just those 2 things. Some things can be fixed. Several people have asked about bad parts so I am working on a video to help in that area hopefully.

Thanks look forward to watching

No tabs

They are supposed to, but everytime I order them they only send me the ones with tabs. I grind them off.

Thanks

What would keep overdrive housing from going on, once pump gets to housing bolts stops

Something is not seated properly. If the overdrive housing is sitting down in the rear case then the problem is above that. If not the problem is in the rear. Did you index the pinions in the planet? If not the drum will not go in correctly.

WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description. Have had horrible luck with the brown one.

Hi Mr. Tom I got a brand new seal from WIT and it is exactly like the seal that came in my kit from precision. It is also brown in color. I checked with my supplier to see if they had some other options and they also had a brown one on the shelf but it was slightly different in color from the one I’m already working with. Can you please check with your WIT supplier to see if this black seal is still available or not? I don’t want to put this back together if I can get a black seal from somewhere. But truly I think my issue is the converter hub was not perfectly straight. The brand new bushing I put in the bell housing is scrubbed all the way around but the converter hub is only scrubbed on one side. What do you think about that? I had about 550 miles on the truck and since rebuild. I had ordered a new bushing from Sonnax that is supposed to be more tight fitting but I don’t think that’s gonna solve anything if the hub is not straight. My league was very small not even a drip well I believe at my shop in forming a pressure test. I put it out on the road and did a pressure test while driving and when I came back the bottom the transmission was wet again. It has not even dropped enough on the dipstick for me to even see. I had no leaks at all for the first several days of driving because I checked under the truck every day. I have one other issue since rebuild that I have been really struggling with understanding. The lock up is not solid when shifting through the gears from a stop or very slow speed. It will lock for a moment then unlock for a moment then lock back down solid. It will lock for a moment then unlock for a moment then lock back down solid. However if cruising down the road after it is locked up good and I force it to unlock my mashing on the gas it will unlock just fine and then lock back down just fine no hesitation no weirdness no nothing. Now that I have the converter and pump back off the transmission and the first thing I checked was the shuttle valve for the lock up and it seems to be perfectly fine with good movement. I’m working on a 2000 Isuzu rodeo with a on/off TCC. I installed all brand new solenoids with the rebuild.

The number is the same for both, go figure. Transtar tends to send the black one more when you ask for it. Transtec kits come with the black one. Toledo and the cheaper kits the brown one. May have to go to the dealer. Could be the hub. How do you line up your pump? What brand of solenoids?

I used the alignment tool from the Transgo shift kit. The solenoids came from Cobra transmission in Florida. I think they were Rostra brand. I can’t remember now, and I threw the little boxes away. I do still have all of my solenoids from prior though that were working just fine. I’ve thought about trying my old TCC solenoid.

@@leroysmith26 I absolutely hate Rostra solenoids. Horrible luck with them.

Yeah, they took the crappiest 3 speed transmission, the TH180C, and decided to make it a 4 speed. They actually did that with a bunch of em', but I would say hands down this is the worst. Sorry to say that there is nothing that would swap easily without a ton of work.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I've actually been considering an LS swap, maybe with a 4L80, but I have no idea what I'm talking about. Am I crazy?

@@ewetoobblowzdogg8410 Don't think you would have enough room.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission How about a V-Tech 6. Trans unknown...

Did a quick search and most are converting to a standard. One said 4.3L with 4l60E. We don't do conversions because they take soo much time and you always run into things you did not expect. I would do alot of research and maybe getting on some forums before jumping into it.

Not saying it doesn't happen, especially now. But that is what they say when they don't want to work on a unit. This is one of those units where you can do everything correctly and it just won't work. Most will go on down the road, but it is that 1 that just won't work that will make you never want to see another ones of these ever again. Try going here and see if you can find a shop not too far from you. Thanks for watching. www.atra.com/ShopFinder

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you sir. I found a couple, will reach out tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Thanks again!

You are right, well technically it came out in 01 for the 2002 model. So, it is listed as 2002. Probably was a Rodeo and I screwed up. Must have had an Axiom in here at the same time. Thanks for pointing this out.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI think its slightly diff than the rodeos 4l30..fr a rodeo wont work correctly in an Axiom..I can't imagine you'd see any more of these !

@@crayfishtv I get them fairly often. But usually Rodeo's. Only done a handful of Axiom's.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission do you know if the 5L40-E from a AWD CTS STS (w a transfercase) can bolt in place of a 4l30 ? ( would need a transmission controller)

Not sure. Anything would be better than the 4l30.

Not to be an ass but I will not answer that question.

Tom Bearden no worries. Another question is I’m buying a over haul kit and I want to get the 2nd gear sprag and upgrade shifting as well do you have anyone you suggest? I’m in texas

@@palaciosivan100 Depends on where in Texas, I know a few people. Our 2 major suppliers are WIT ( Whatever It Takes ) and Transtar but there are other smaller suppliers as I am sure there are in most large cities.

Tom Bearden I’m in Dallas Texas. I just think that if I’m going to get it rebuilt I want the best parts and want the shift to be more aggressive and the 2nd gear sprag beefy

Tom Bearden WIT AND transtar fo they build up these two parts up? Hydro assist and 2nd gear sprag

Go here and they will have a list of shops they recommend. www.atra.com/ShopFinder

Same here on my 96 328is