Setting up the input , center and output end play on this 4L80E transmission. This is the same procedure to set up the THM400 transmission since they are basically the same when it comes to adjusting end play.
I realize that you can just be rebuilding transmissions and making money, so I am all the more grateful that you take the time to make these videos sharing your knowledge and talent. 🙏
I like the idea of being closer to the minimum number vs the maximum because that will allow for wear meaning the clearances will loosen up slightly as the unit operates. If you are on the maximum side, once the wear sets in, if there is any, the gaps will be too large or out of spec in the real world. Thanks for the review Hiram.
Saludos desde El Salvador gracias por compartir maestro.no se mucho el idioma ingles pero se entiende lo que usted quiere decir.mil gracias por compartir.
Keep up the good work, Hiram. I do quite a few 4L80's. I use a lot of Transgo products. But I no longer use those Blue hi temp rings on the center support. IMO, they are too wide for the grooves. And don't let enough fluid behind them. I had two units that I corrected a soft 2-3 shift. With only changing those rings to stock 400 scarf cut rings.
Like I mentioned in the video, I believe those sealing ring were designed for cross leaks when bushings are reused to compensate for the wear. I still know a lot of builders that don't like to change bushings and don't have the bushing drivers to do that. But this unit, in my experience, doesn't like worn bushings. Falling out of 4th gear and other issues. And that's where the blue rings with the expanders works great, specially on the input shaft. On the center support not sure, I've never had the issue you mentioned. I run new bushings and stock rings and only get the kit for the shims. But thanks for the comment on your experience with the center support rings, hopefully Transgo reads your comment and correct the issue.
@@AutomaticTransmission I'd agree about the shops who seem to believe reusing bushings is a fair rebuild, it is not. Bushings have a wear time line and a limited life span regardless of how perfect the rest of the unit is. Plus, they already established a wear pattern which will be changed with any rebuild causing even more wear in. Additionally, a bushing kit will offer the wide bushings which only improves the build in many ways. As far as a trans build shop that doesn't have bushing drivers, they shouldn't be in business without them.
The Sonnax 34322-02K fwd clutch hub is a great mod - it rollerizes the front and the hub is now supported by the direct housing and sun gear shaft instead of the main shaft. Skip the fwd to direct drum endplay checks ( there will be zero play) and you do everything with the pump selective as far as front end play. Ythese things want the front end play larger than the rear end play to allow each gear set to thrust independantly so the fwd movement of rear doesn't bring the load to the front gear set. .005 - .010" on top of your rear end play is a good target cleariance - so for your setup .010 to .015 would have been ideal for front end play with your .005 rear. I also like to install the plastic silencer ring that GM used to use on the output carrier but stopped using as cost cutting measure - it does help with wear on the bushing and noise. Great video btw
@@tyronetrump1612 thank you sir. I already has a billet forward hub thing but got the sonnax one because of your reccomendation. I'll use the one I have in another trans for my daily
Move that wide gap in the snap ring around so it won't be inline with the wide gap in the case, a lot of transmissions have to have the snap rings go all the way across the the big gap in the case otherwise it makes big trouble for everything and of course R&R the trans again
Hiram I appreciate the video its valuable. if you don't mind me asking, what kind of labor do you charge for a performance build like this? thanks again
Hi Hiram, it's me again. Off topic question here. I am dealing with at P0770 on a 2002 Toyota Tundra 4.7L. The code is for shift solenoid E. I also read that it could be the lock up solenoid. Well, I have replaced all three shift solenoids and tested all the wiring up to the control module and the wires are ok. However, I am still getting the same code. Now, my next task would be to determine if the issue is the Torque Converter or the Module itself. I was wondering if you have dealt with this specific issue with the Tundras and wanted to know if there is a common issue? Thanks in advance and once again, I love your content!
27:13 Are you sure on that bearing orientation? I'm looking at the instructions for the Sonnex 34006-SPB and shows it to install the opposite way you do.
How much do you charge to do a 2004 GMC 4L 80e out of Denali I used your vehicles to rebuild One Transmission already I like what you're doing here and I don't have place to do it now so I would like to send it to you thank you
The plastic selective shim under the pump comes in sizes of 0.059, 0.075, 0.091, 0.107, and 0.123 so I typically adjust my front end play using one of these along with a 0.010" shim under the bearing that rests on top of the forward drum if additional clearance is needed. I don't use the sonnax forward hub front washer 34298-078 or any other aftermarket washer that is thicker than stock to adjust front endplay, I use a new OEM 24241413 washer under the forward hub to retain the stock clearance in that location. So you are saying that if you use a pump selective shim like a 0.123 that it will raise the pump too high causing the pump sealing rings to not make proper contact with the overdrive drum? I have not heard of this. Have you personally seen this by marking the sealing ring with a dye and seeing if it did or didn't make a mark on the inside of the OD drum where it makes contact with the sealing ring?
The Sonnax roller forward hub is the bomb - support for the fwd clutch hub now gets transferred to th the direct housing and sun gear shaft instead of the main shaft . bypass the fwd to direct drum clearancing ( it will be zero ) and go right to front end endplay with your selectives
You push up just to settle the front input shaft but not hold up on the output shaft. You have to let it rest then take measurements. It will not compensate for the rest of the play between the input shaft snap ring and the Overdrive planet. You still need to make it touch the planet, then take your reading. Remember that the output shaft will not move much because you already set your rear end play.
easiest way is set the unit on the gound/ tail shaft and do your front end. Helps to make a shim to put under the circlip to get rid of that first 015" clunk before you get the real numbers. just do not forget about it afterwards
