Hi all, in this video I'm showing you how to change the brake pads and brake rotors on your 4wd (Pajero). The job is very easy and is likely possible for anyone with the most basic of tools.
I like watching you have a go. I do all my own mechanical and panel work because I can. I like seeing how others do things because I might see something I don't do, no right or wrong
There's definitely a satisfaction that cubes from doing your own work. Saves a few bucks too. It's funny how much stuff you don't do because you think it's too hard but then you have a go and wonder what took you long. Never really tried panel work though. Maybe I should take my own advice and have a go.
Great video mate. Couple of tips / suggestions for anyone else doing a pad and rotor replacement... An air chisel is an easy way to get the rotor of if it's rusted on to the hub just mind the wheel studs. Also I usually put a bit of Bendix brake grease on the ears of the pads and the back of them where it touches the piston, supposedly this stops brake squeal.
Cheers Kieran, those air chisels are bloody brilliant. I don't know what took me so long to get one, I did stick some any seize on those spots but it didn't make the video. I know some people don't like it. So I try and avoid stuff that will get cranky comments :)
Wow mate just did my Pajero back pads last month as I heard a squeak when pulling up, but no damage like yours and yes I used a breaker bar and pipe to get them off, I did get a ratchet to fit the breaker bar so I could reposition more easily
hey Les, they did catch me off guard this time. but really for a 130 bucks for the rotor it's not all that bad. a machine was going to cost 25 bucks. so for 100 extra and getting it done on the same day it was worth the spend. I guess since its not a job you do too often they can a pain in the rear to pull out. In addition to sticking in slotted rotors of some description I think giving those calipers a nice coat of red paint might be in order too
Good tip. I did put some anti seize where they make contact with the clips to help with that, it just didn't make the video. If didn't talk as much, more would make the cut ,😁
Hi Mate.. Just a few hints on doing brakes.. 1..Best way to get the brake dust out instead of a brush and air is just use your garden hose. It won't hurt anything 2.. Don't put anti-seize, oil or grease on the hub face to prevent sticking . .2 Reason : First - The rim and drum/rotor rely on the surface friction created by the clamping force of the wheel nuts to resist the twisting force from driving the wheels. If you lubricate those faces you are removing that resistance and placing that twisting force directly to the studs and that's how wheel nuts come loose and studs shear off. Secondly - When the lubricant gets warm the centrifugal force from the spinning wheels will sling the lubricant outwards to the drum/rotor and you'll get brake failure. You'll see the rotors have 2x8mm threaded holes in them. They're for jacking the rotor off when they are tight.
hey Brett, thanks for taking the time mate. I really should have given the whole thing a hose off before I started since I'd been off road recently and it was still filthy. I wasn't worried about using the hose other than it would have made the area all wet where i was sitting and I was keen to get the job done. I don't normally use anti seize but after doing some research the overwhelming common aspect of what I could find was to apply it to between the rotor and the hub and if the hub went well, on the other side of that too. Unlikely as it is that I will be replacing either again though whilst i still have the vehicle. I'm winning power ball this week and might get something newer. Get where you're coming form on the forces etc but Id be thinking the rotational forces of the wheel itself would be much greater than that of the rotor due to weight and the larger diameter over the rotor. That said the braking force is applied direct to the rotor itself. hmm one to ponder out when i have spare time . Re the lube/anti seize, it would only move in a straight line from the center point outward from where it was applied. This would have it make contact inside the rotor where the hand brake mechanism resides. It wouldn't make it onto the rotor plate where the braking is done from the pads. Still, a worthy consideration though when applying any lube to the braking system. Yeah a mate picked me up on not using the jacking points. I told him I wasn't sure I had the right size bolts in the shed for the job and if I did, with the state of my shed there'd be no way I could have located them easily. It's a bloody shambles in there. The hammers though, I knew exactly where they were. I was under the impression they were a 12mm, but since I didn't try them I really don't know. Would have been bloody nice if there was the same option for removing those damned hub bolts. could have saved me a breaker bar. cheers again
@@DENMONKEY Sorry mate , but you'll only be winning half the power ball. I've already got a winning ticket :). When you get your winnings don't worry about another car. Just get a bigger shed. All a bloke needs is more shed space. I've been a mechanic (for too long) since the 80's and I know a lot of people do use anti-seize but I've seen the down side of lubricating the drum/rotor faces and wheel nuts. Seeing that you do tow a caravan, your torque loads when accelerating and braking are going to be greater than normal. Just wanted to give you a heads up on the down side of using lube so you don't get any nasty surprises. You might be right about the bolt size. It's been a while since I've done a Pajero. I'm thinking they were 8mm bolt with 12 or 13mm head. Cheers Mate, Like your work.
Towing a caravan? That would be nice. Hasn't been it in 12 months. But getting away next week. I'll settle for 25mil, no problem. Definitely fit that right re the shed. But I'll need a bigger years to fit more sheds. Be a nice problem to have that's for sure
20:35 super important on a paj always grease these and even check them every few months as dust gets in there and turns to clay making the free floating element of these brakes hang and will prematurely wear your pads
cheers Andy. I know others really like a silicone lube on the sliders but I've always used a bit of bearing grease with success. I have seen some on other vehicles be very rusty and horribly pitted when removed. So mine always get greased up before going back in.
@@DENMONKEY Have to say mine arent the best but still working fine. Im thinking I will have to replace my calipers soon as the DS Rear was recently stuck in place with both the free floating pins and the piston sticking. Freed up and working now though.
Another tip for you, wash the car/wheels the day before you work on the brakes. Then you remove most of the brake dust, dirt etc. Much better for the lungs and general grubbiness. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Gaz
Always a fun job mate. Ive had all 4 hubs replaced on mine (DS Front twice). Ive also done my front pads & rotors myself and had the mechanic do the rear pads, rotors & shoes as I dont know how to do Drum brakes yet. First time doing my front pads I snapped ring spanners as I didnt have a breaker bar, damaged a socket wrench too as it doesnt lock in right now. Hardest part Ive had with the hubs was actually getting them out of their seating spot after everything was unbolted. 18 years of shit built up in there and a little corrosion made them a nightmare. A little grease goes a long way when it comes to things like that next time. Slotted or drilled rotors I think would make a big difference and have considered doing the same.
Sup mick, good to know I'm not the only one busting gear. I know I was asking alot of that bar but the material just wasn't up to spec as far as I can tell. I made sure things that needed it got some anti corrosion on there to make it easier next time. Pity the bloke before me didn't do the same 😁
@@DENMONKEY Thats it mate. All the parts Ive taken off mine such as Hubs looked to be original so I would think they have probably copped 18 years of abuse off road with very little to no maintenance. My hub nuts were pretty easy but I snapped the spanners on the brake callipers. Mrs gets annoyed with how much Ive spent on the Paj but I keep reminding her its an old vehicle and these things shouldnt need doing again for quite some time now.
I thought you were gonna say something about how much the missus spends on upkeep because she's getting older. I was going to say, nice knowing ya 😁. Maybe that's a good enough reason to get a new one ...pajero I mean , not the wife
@@DENMONKEY Nah never parting with my Paj mate. Told the Mrs I will part with it the day it is a write off and can not be repaired. At that point I will buy another and probably stick with the Gen 3 as I really do like it. Im not a big fan of all these things telling me how to drive like traction control and such. Plus I much rather the over all styling of the Gen 3.
Rears are easy but good job, front is when the pain starts. I have a gen 2 and looks like they switched to montero sport parts for the front on the gen 3's like yours. They main thing you have to remember with rear is that you have to make sure the park break is not set because you won't be able to get the rotor off.
There is a rubber plug from the old rotor. Remove that and you can loosen the hand brake mechanism by using a flat screw driver. It will easier to remove the old rotor. Put new one and tighten the hand brake to original spec.
Did that rear pad give you any warning of wear, like a squeaking? I’m typically relying on that as my cue to change them as I’m too lazy to check visually or just forget. The sound check has always worked on my liberty....but ya...just interested
Sure hope you did the other side also, I've always been told brakes should be done in pairs. Just ordered new rotors and pads for my NW and using the opportunity to upgrade to some DBA T2 4x4 Slotted Rotors all round, only about $750 in parts. Annoyingly it will take 3-6 week for the parts to get here. While technically I can di the work, done similar on a smaller car in the past for Pajero I will likely get a shop to do it.
Love ya work. I torque the wheel nuts up rather than using about 6 our 7 "uga Dugga's" 😆🤣😜. 120 NM in the star pattern as mentioned. Like what you do though.
Thanks for the video. I have to bleed the brakes on my NX Pajero as part of the 90k service schedule. Any tips or any thing I need to look out for in doing this on the Paj would be greatly appreciated.
No mate. Nothing I can suggest. Except it's a shit if a job and one I've never been very good at. Need to bleed the brakes on my dirt bike too but have been putting it off. Good luck. Maybe have a look at the vacuum bleeder kit. I've not tried one but they look pretty good.
Ummm sorry no, I don't off the top of my head. I just went to the local parts supplier and told them what I needed, they bought this one out. from memory there were 2 sizes and this was the larger. I want to say something like 283mm But really , don't quote me, I could be way off.
ooh john hard to say. it depends if you have the 17 or 18 inch and what tire you have on it. I would say it definitely requires some level of focus to get it to line up with the pin to slot it on. I can't give you a specific number but I think most reasonably fit men wouldn't have an issue, someone a bit older or of the fairer sex might struggle a little.
Who know? I have the short pajero with 18" wheel and the front rotor is 29cm. Is possibile upgrade with rotor 32 cm only changing the calliper? The hotel is the same? Thanks from italy
I have a problem with check engine light always.. can you give some tips or you can make a video of it .. how to get away that irritating check engine light as well ...
Gday abo, hard call mate cause it could be anything causing it. You really need to find what's making it come up. Grab yourself a cheap obd2 reader off eBay and read any error codes coming up . Depending on what they are, it should let you clear then as well.
My check engine light came on after 100k. Bought a new EGR valve. Fixed the problem. Opened the electronics of the old valve. All the wipers were stuffed.
Hammer or use the jacking screw holes in the rotor to remove it. Easier to use jacking screw holes....if you have the right size bolt to use as the jacking screw.
@@DENMONKEY Gunna have to do mine soon. Just wondering how the jacking screw works? Do you just thread the appropriate size bolt into the hole in the rotor? If this is the case looks like it would push against the bearing assembly? Might be better than trying to hammer the shit out of it!
They're a shit thing to be sure Terry. Did you manage to remove the hub without removing ball joints etc ? I could get onto them, barely by pushing the cv backwards but it was still going to be a shit job even if I got the bolts undone
Small added problem There are 4 :rattle clip" holding the disc pads. It is critical that they are installed. I lost one somewhere along the way That caused the pad to not sit properly and destroyed the disk Expensive joke AND they difficult to obtain.
I don't think so, just really haven't checked them to be honest. Theyve been in there since I got the vehicle. I should have done them when I did the front ones.
do you mean park brakes ? there is a little adjust on the bottom that is accessed from the rear of the brakes where you can wind out the shoes to increase friction on the drum. I will be doing a video on this soon as mine need adjusting slightly. cheers Jay
Hey Mate this job is next on My list. I'm gonna upgrade my rear rotors to slotted and braided brake lines with new pads. I've done it a few times but never on the pajero. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Tim. I'm guessing since you've done it before and will be doing it on the Paj, you rate the change ? how much difference is there ? I was thinking the brake lines might be worth doing as part of the deal. you going slotted or drilled ? i'm open to any advice
Yeah park brakes sorry. I did in my NX I reckon it would be different from your as with NX you have to doing from that rubber bung and turn the cog wheel while loosing the actual brake cable from cabin.
Im having an absolute shit fight getting my rear rotors off my NW. Ive popped a pin for the parking brake pads im assuming, jacking the rotor out and now the fkkn thing will not come off. Anyone got any tips/help?
Yeah park brake was off. I got it off in the end, the pads had cocked themselves over due to the heavy amount of rust on the inside of the rotor and I snapped a retainer pin. I needed to locate the pad adjuster via the access hole in the rotor and back the pads off a touch, which in hind sight should of done first 😣 Now to find some new pins at bursons...🤔
One thing not mentioned, The handbrake pads needs replacing if the drum was skimmed before Here a new disk is fitted probably to a OEM disc Id the drum is skimmed and new ads fitted it has the incorrect size for the new drum
