5.7 Toyota Tundra DIY - Serpentine Belt, Tensioner Pulley, & Idler Pulley 

I’m glad the video was helpful and you had a successful DIY! Thank you for the feedback, hope you have a great weekend

Did yours start squeaking only for a minute or two when cold?

Thank you for the feedback! I’m glad the video was able to guide you through the DIY

Thanks for the feedback! Good luck on your install, mine was smooth without hiccups

Glad the video was helpful, thank you for the feedback

Thank you, I’m glad it was helpful. Good job

Edward Kim I’m glad the video was able to help you tackle this yourself, thank you

Wow, 35k and these pulleys need replaced? When did Toyota switch to dayco pulleys? What happened with Denso?

@@DMJ160 I know right?.. Mine still have noticeable squeal if I listen for it. It may be is coming from water pump pulleys.

We got the best Tundra color IMO! I’m glad the video was helpful, should be an easy DIY as it was pretty straightforward

Just installed the pullies and belt today following your instructions and made all of the same purchases you advised with 75K miles on my Tundra. Took better part of an hour and the toughest part was figuring out how to twist the belt to get it on without removing anything. Thanks for saving me hundreds!!! Jim from Dallas

@@jacalnan nice DIY work! I’m glad the view was helpful, and I’m happy it saved you money!

CY tv thanks, hope the video was helpful. Good luck tomorrow!

No problem! I’m glad the video was helpful and thank you for sharing your experience

That's the same belt that runs the alternators?

@@Rain-ox3dpYes, that is correct.

Good job, the timing chains aren’t for the faint of heart

Josh, what were the symptoms for the timing chain replacement?

@@stetsonakin527 I had chain slap, sounded like horses galloping in my engine, got worse with increased rpm

Thought it was the tensioner but the driver side chain was stretched

Thanks it did me

Sounds like a good plan, I’m at ~59k miles now and zero issues since I replaced the parts in the video (knock on wood)

@@MidMoTundra it squeaked again after 4 months….. toyota is known for the chirp/squeak. The pulleys don’t line up very well, and puts a very small strain on the rubber belt, that’s why after 4 months it started again. This time I dipped the belt in 303 Aerospace rubber protectant for 20 minutes. Wiped it clean and installed. The first start up it squeaked….. that was yesterday. The next day, no chirp. I’ll give you a 4 month update soon.

@@HeyMikeyLikesIt2 dang, let me updated. I haven’t done anything to my belt or pulley’s since doing the DIY

Interesting, I checked my boxes and all my parts were made in the USA except for the idler pully. I pinned a comment, the OEM belt supplier is Bando not Dayco as confirmed by a user that works for TMMTX. The Bando part number they gave is 8PK2410 or the Toyota part number is PT-90916-A2023

Thanks, hope it was helpful

On the dayco idler did you have to take off a dust cover

J.i.Martinez for the upper idler pully, I believe I only had to remove the engine cover. I was able to access it with my breaker bar

Mine was the tensioner pulley, I’d almost bet that if you still have a noise it’s probably coming from that. Thanks for the feedback, and great job on the DIY!

@@MidMoTundra Tensioner pulley should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the support.

@@ilovetotri23 thank you for your support, good luck 👍

@@MidMoTundra Replaced tensioner pulley today. the "tweetie bird" sound remains.

@@ilovetotri23 oh no, I’m sorry to hear that. Wonder if it’s the water pump or another pulley that’s associated with the belt. Does it get louder higher the RPM’s are? If so, I’d think it has to be something on the drive belt or maybe the fan clutch

The Allen key is to hold the pulley in the back position to remove tension on the belt. Once the belt is removed, you can release the tension in the pulley and remove the Allen key before you remove it from the vehicle. Or you can put the pulley in a vice and remove the Allen key with it off the vehicle. Sorry I didn’t include that part

I thought it was pretty easy, just take your time!

@@MidMoTundra I did mine. It was easy but the most part I hate is the bolt that’s on the fan lol it was a pain in the ass to get them out. Thanks for the video it help out a lot!

@@SunnyVangBruh agreed! I’m glad the video was helpful, good job on the DIY!

Thank you! I used the allen to hold it in the hole, I didn’t get it out after inserting it and it was the cheapest tool to sacrifice for me. Looks like it has to be ~5mm or smaller to fit in the service hole. The tensioner pully torque specs for the two bolts show 17 ft lb per the Toyota manual I used. I didn’t see a torque spec for the idler bolt. Here a link to the document I referenced: dahoodman.com/docs/Tundra_3UR-FE_Belt.pdf

@@MidMoTundra I know it's a late reply, but for those in the future. Both tensioner bolts are 17ft/lbs, as you stated, and the idler is 32ft/lbs. Great job on the video! Really helped me out.

Gurcharan Grewal I’m not familiar with how Mercedes are setup, but on my Toyota’s you can replace every part. I’d assume you should be able to remove the broken part and install a new one. You may need to contact a Mercedes dealer so you can get a diagram of the belt assembly on your Mom’s engine. That’s what I’d do and go from there

I had to go from underneath to loosen the tensioner pulley, I don’t think there was enough room to go from the top. The guides I read prior, all showed going from the bottom, that’s how I did mine

Hmm, did you cross reference the part number to make sure they gave you the right one? Maybe they gave you one for a different engine?

I don’t recall it being super tight but the tensioner pully pinned back. Are you use it’s the correct belt?

Thank you, I’ve been happy with my parts, no issues at all since I did the install. Only thing I’d change is I’d get the Bando belt as someone commented that’s the actual supplier for Toyota (I pinned the comment and part number in the comments section of this video). I haven’t priced my parts out since I did the install, but I plan on using the same parts except swapped for the Bando belt when I do this on our 5.7 Land Cruiser. Nothing wrong with OEM parts; but if you can get the “same part” directly from the supplier and save a decent chunk of change, I don’t see anything wrong with that

It would have worked with a slight extension and breaker bar. The short 6mm was 3/8 socket and the long was 1/2. I only had a 1/2 breaker bar which is why I used the long one. It didn’t require an extension due to the length.

Hey, this is the repair document I used. If I recall correctly, it has all the torque specs dahoodman.com/docs/Tundra_3UR-FE_Belt.pdf

@@MidMoTundra Thank you!!!

I have the same fear, I try to get everything on Amazon where it’s returnable for 30 days incase I get jipped. Luckily the parts can be sourced from other vendors, my experience has been the return process is usually cumbersome compared to Amazon or a big company

I show the two tensioner bolts are 17 ft-lb and the idler pulley is 32 ft-lb

You have to put a breaker bar on the first but on the tensioner pully. It’s spring loaded, so you have to turn it and it’ll relieve tension on the pully. There is an access hole that I put a lawn wrench into to to hold the tensioner pully in the “relived tension “ so you can remove and reroute the belt.

If my memory is correct, I’m 99% sure it’s standard threaded. I torqued it with my torque wrench towards the drivers side

I rolled 56k miles last week and zero issues with the parts I used. No noises at all, very happy with the parts after 13k miles and it’ll be 2 years this May

@@MidMoTundra that’s great to hear! I just replaced my serpentine belt thankfully that was the only issue. great video definitely helped a lot!

First time doing it plus trying to record and what not, I’d say maybe 2.5 hours. If I wasn’t recording I could probably knock it out in an hour - hour and a half. Pretty easy given nothing is rust welded together

Link to the repair manual PDF is in the description. It should have all torque specs

Nope, no squealing so far. Still quiet like the day I did the install

Very nice, I had the same issue start a month or so ago. I think I'm going to replace the tensioner pulley and belt and not worry about the idler pulley.

@@4dot gotcha, I did all of them since I had to take it apart anyways. I think the tensioner pulley is the culprit majority of the time

200k on my factory Dayco tensioner. No noise, no issues.

My truck has 67k miles on it, and I have the dayco. Not going with OEM 😂

Eventually whichever part is producing the noise will eventually fail. Given how easy and the cost of parts is relatively inexpensive, I’d recommend replacing the item(s) before the noise increases in volume

@@MidMoTundra thank you, if the belt comes off when the tensioner fails will it destroy the motor?

@@dredlew shouldn’t damage the motor, maybe destroy the plastic fan blades but all of the accessory drive components won’t function and you’ll need a tow

@@MidMoTundra thank you for the practical response I really appreciate it.

@@dredlew anytime, best of luck!

Hey, so I think I mentioned it in the video but this was the first time I’ve done a idler pulley, tensioner pully, and drive belt replacement. I’d say if you can replace brakes, you can do this job. I thought the 5.7 was pretty easy to work on, just make sure you have the correct tools and it should be easy. Before I did the job, I did a lot of reading on Tundras.com so I had a good idea of what I was getting myself into. If you do it, I hope it goes easy for you. Hopefully my video helps you decide if you want to tackle it yourself.

I've never done brakes..😂😂😂.. I wanna give it a shot.. ( plus it would save me a bunch of money by having the dealer do it.. )

squeak6 if you have confidence I say go for it. Hardest part is getting the tensioner pully off and back on. Since you can’t see it, you are doing it by “feeling” to get the bolts started. Then the routing is a little tricky but start from the top and take it slow, follow the diagram and you should be good. Did you have the dealer quote you to replace these? I’m curious what they quoted you.

@@squeak6 😂

@@MidMoTundra I had the serpentine belt on my 2016 Tundra (Crewmax, sr5, 4x4, 5.7 engine) changed about 2 weeks ago. The dealer charged exactly $209.05 (includes tax, Palm Beach, FL). Only the belt was changed, no tensioner or pulley. It took them about to 45 minutes to complete. Like everyone on here, the belt made that squealing noise when it was raining a lot, or was super humid, and since I drive a lot for work, I didn’t want to take any chances, so I wanted the “Pros” to do the work, since they could also tell me if anything else related to the belt needed any attention. I’m at about 107,000 miles by the way. Funny that you said that if someone can do their own brakes, then they can also handle this job. I always change my own brakes, rotors, bleeding the system, etc, so after watching your video I’m sure I could have done this belt change no problem. I also frequent the Tundras.com forum too, lots of great info and help on there.

No updates other than zero issues. Parts are going strong with no noises

@Midmo Toyotas Thank you, good to hear, awesome video.

@@Nchai-Yang thank you!

I’ve had 5 5.7 V8 Toyota’s (2010/2011/2014/2016 Tundra and a 2016 Land Cruiser) and my 2016 Tundra is the first and only 5.7 so far to develop the squeal.

Yep. I swapped mine with a dayco about 18 months ago. My squeak came back within a year. Ordered an OEM Toyota belt and tensioner to replace it this time.

@@macgyver03ga even the OEM toyota one is made by Dayco. I don't know why toyota does this.

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