Great move - well explained... Changed slave cylinder, brake pipes, brakes, pads and all fluid was out. Filled up with new fluid, bleed each wheel until no air. Filled up with fluid from bleedscrew in slave cylinder (to get air out from master cylinder?) and then used scan tool to get air from ABS Neww at scan tool, think i got it right... When car dont have ignition the brake is ok, when ignition pedal goes to floor when brake.. One of this 5 issues in this movieclip its must be? mean good brakes no ignintion, bad brakes when ignition on...
There could also be air in an otherwise good master cylinder so might need to be bled as well, also if too much fluid leaked out there could be air in the ABS module which unfortunately requires a scan tool with ABS function to remove
@@mr.dee1329 im actually going to my mechanic tomorrow asking about that. Its scary when u going in the highway and you lose pressure, it may be something in the pedal itself but worse case scenario its something wrong with the brake bomb
Custom brake job here. Mine goes all the way to the floor. When I first start the truck. But I pump it and it’s fine. Stopping power is ok but I’m scared. It’s a $200,000 truck.
I have changed my master cylinder brake were good but now my pedal goes right to the floor but if I pump up 3-4 times the brake pedal while driving they work what can I do it's an old 86 e350 dually
I enjoyed your video you made it very clear what to look for and exactly how to do it .. for anyone to understand ...thank you for sharing your knowledge
Our mechanic was looking at our car and said the ABS module had a leak. The pedal is super soft, goes straight to the floor, and comes back up slow. It makes an airy kinda sound when you push it down, and when you get to the floor it just drives down the rest of the way with no resistance. It’s a 2010 RT charger. We bled the brakes swapped out 3 ABS modules and bled the brakes between each module, the problem still occurs. The mechanic told us there was a leak in the last module, and the second module was good but the screw on one of the lines was rethreaded, but the brake fluid wasn’t leaking in the second module. We did most of these on the list but we didn’t check the cylinder. We’ll try it next time.
@@jmayor_ not yet, waiting for new (used) abs valve block, you can check it by blocking your master cylinder, if then it stays hard, then you have abs problem. From what it seems abs blocks from Ate have problems with it.
Mine is stuck , it goes a little bit further but it’s not coming back to the normal position , I check my brake fluid and it’s good , my vacuum lines looks good , I think it’s my brake booster I already buy one I’m gonna do it my self next week
Ok so… I have VW Jetta… replace both front calipers, as one was sticky… I have bled all the calipers all the way around, disc brakes, no leaks.. pedal feels great, start car goes to floor, only a little brake at very end of pedal! Using tip toe!!( I’m short! Lol) went and bought a computer to bled abs, did that all the way around the car like 7xs, same issue… went and rebled normally, no air, start car hit brake, down to floor, pump a few times, it stiffens some and sinks back to floor! I’m not understanding and I need my car!! I have done everything I can think of! Master cylinder, has no leaks, never ran dry… help 😭😭😭😭
I had this happened to me today, it was downhill as well and the car ahead was turning right. I tried to brake and nothing occurred I slammed it, nothing, slammed again nothing so I had to hit my car left onto pavement which slowed my vehicle down. Brakes worked fine after, should I still get it checked.
Thank you for the video very helpful my break fluid is very dark so maybe it’s the last thing to check with is the master cylinder and the pedal goes to the floor slowly but when I press the breaks fast the get hard then like two seconds they go slowly to the floor I don’t see no leaks and fluid it to the max never had leaking problems thank you for the great step by step information
Replaced brake booster a month back, worked fine ever since, back to braking to the floor… but no visible signs of fluid leakage? I did notice my brake fluid level went down below maximum, i topped it off, still didn’t work. Probably the master cylinder then?
@@amerieshields327 you should definitely replace the brake booster, and get a new master cylinder. My brakes are fine again so it was just air in the lines, you need to make sure you do a brake bleed after. Hope you get your truck working good!!
@@amerieshields327 it cost me $90 for the part and an hour of my time to do it with a friend. Look up a tutorial because on many cars it’s really easy. I was curious so i called a local mechanic for a quote and he wanted $280 for the job (even tho i already bought the part!!) good luck !!
Original complaint to take car into Kia was steering wheel seemed loose an not turning properly Gerald took to kis said they recslsberated the computer wtf would the computer have to do with steering wheel then all three out 2 day's later Idc wtf any one says that fucken retsrd Gerald pees did it
I have no pedal. Brake line blew. Went to bleed and broke another. So being I didn't want to deal with more of the same I replaced 4 out of 5 lines connected to the distribution block. 04 Tahoe. Bled all brakes. Distribution block first then bleeders. Still no pedal.
I was going 55 mph around a curve yesterday and lost brake pressure for a little bit. Pumped them until i got pressure again. Ended up being a 6th reason not mentioned. My left rear brake pad got so thin it slipped out of the caliper and got lodged into rotor and caliper frame. Caliper pistons became the pad. Got all messed up. So, theres a 6th reason.
I had something similar happen. Apparently my brake pad fell off completely. This caused a caliper to become damaged. Another caliper became damaged due to the uneven wear and pulling of the breaks.
@@monetpierce7692 yep, same. My pads never squeaked to warn me they needed changed. I think the squealer rusted off long before the pad was getting near the end of its life. Probably a good idea to inspect them once a week.
Hi, I really like you explanation simple but good 👌 2014 Nissan Titan SV and I check my same way you explained and yes my brake paddle go ale way to the floor, I check hose vacuum and work fine , the brake fluid is no to bad, so you think in my buster? 😮 Ricardo from state of Utah
I have the same problem and I have replaced everything . I did get 3 ABS modules from pull-A-parts salvage. Non of this has helped. I can bleed the brakes and have a good pedal untill I crank the car and then It goes all the way to the floor. It has no warning lights ln the dash. I also have an Autel scanner with a bidirectional function that I have used on many othet cars to automatically bleed the brakes and for some reason it doesn't work on this Ford Taurus. Electrical problem somewhere . Everything else has been pretty much prooved to be working. I wish That I could help you find your problem, but i'm almost certain that mine is in the ABS electrical circuit.
Good day I've been having that problem I did all that the video shows booster is working master cylinder is working no leaks nothing....but brakes still go down to the floor
I have a 2003 Ford Taurus that does the same thing. New master cylinder, Brake calipers, rear wheel cylinders, new rubber brake lines , three 2nd hand ABS modules. New brake booster. Fully bled the brakes several times. Still don't have any brakes. There is no warning light on the dash.
What would cause my brake pedal to be stuck to the floor when pressed but will slowly come back up? Master cylider or Brake Booster? I havd changed Front Calipers, brake pads, rear wheel cyliders and brake shoes. Also bleed system after all work was done
My 2008 Ford Escape has been in two shops, spect a thousand dollars and had two master cylinder’s repairs without fixing my brake problem. The brake pedal looses pressure while driving and sinks almost to the floor. The place where I had it done said they want to be paid for labor and parts but the original issue has never been fixed. I’m at a loss. Could it be the brake booster? Please help.
It's hard to say, but a bad booster or the vacuum going to the booster can be an issue. Here is a video on how to test the booster. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Czi0j8sKy5k.html
@@HVAC_Mechanic all sudden my car brakes feels in effective.. when I hit breaks in traffic it will stop the speed and leaves all sudden...which makes me afraid to drive and today I hit a truck where my bumper is damaged . Kindly suggest me ...( My breake pedal is not so smooth or to the floor ..but yeah will need to push it hard to stop and few times it will leave the grip in middle and makes me hit the car which is before me with 5 to 10 miles speed..
I have to hold mine to the floor if let go of it a little it starting making a grinding noise and sometimes the EPC lights when I break I have a vw gti 2.0t if anyone has an idea of what it can help thank you .
It's usually a rear cylinder. Now & then it's a leaky pipe or a sticking front caliper - but generally it's a leaking rear cylinder. I lose track of how many "The car has no brake pedal" jobs we have done where it was just a leaking rear cylinder but nowhere diagnosed that - despite the owner taking it everywhere before coming here. Check the damn cylinders. How hard is it?
probably rotor/ pads the friction from a warped rotor will cause air bubbles inside the bleeder tubes. i have the same issue right now im waiting for my dad to come home he’s out of town rn then we’re gonna do a full replacement and bleed the brakes
No leaks, peddle is spongy and goes to floor have to pump brakes to get them to work. I have replaced rear drums and shoes and adjusted them properly (slightly dragging on drum) figured master cylinder bad and replaced. Bench bled master cylinder. Bled every wheel until all fresh fluid coming out with no air. Pedal still going to the floor and have to pump to get to work. Any thoughts????
Fluid is at max line, but dark. I don't see or hear any vacuum leaks and no fluid leaks visible anywhere in the system. Brakes were fine, and the next day brake light on dash turned on when I got to my destination and could smell like brakes pads only in the front were cooking and smoking a little. With the keys in hand and no one in driver seat the brake lights were still on for about ten mins.
Hi, I watched many videos already since I found your channel yesterday. This channel is why I love youtube and the internet. Great information well presented straight to the point. But I have to say the channel really needs playlists. It would make finding the content much easier. A general playlist for videos like what is X part or what does X part does. And playlists by car model or brand. You know the videos you released better than I do so you should have a better idea of how to organise them into playlists. You still earned yourself a subscriber! Keep up the good work very informative channel. I just got my first car so I want to learn everything about cars right now. I would love an introduction to cars systems series of videos going through the names of each component and function, might not be what other subs want but i'm going to throw it out there.
Make sure the parts store gave you the caliper for the correct side. You can check this by looking at where the bleeder screw is on the caliper. It should be close to the top. Many of these calipers will fit either side , but if its on the wrong side , you won't be able to bleed the air out of it. Good luck , l hope you find the trouble.
Aye Foo why dose my peddle have have pressure when I pump the breaks but once I start it the peddle goes all the way down like I have no pressure wassup with that anyone that knows get at me
