5 Piece Panel Door MDF - CNC Cabinet Doors - Wood CNC Projects - Legacy CNC Woodworking Machinery 

Draw a corner box at the corner in the 2d window of vcarve or aspire. So when you go to toolpath the 3d model select the corner box vector as the outer boundary.

In this video we use the 1 inch corebox bit

@@legacycnc8232 awesome. Thank you so much for the reply.

@@ElCidPhysics90 For sure! If you have any other questions about this or any other one of our videos please let us know!

@@legacycnc8232 thank you. Will do!

You would use a point / plunge round over bit. Something like a Whiteside 2055 has a 1/4 inch round over. A point round over bit has the two radii converging at a point in line with the center line of the shank. A plunge round over will have a flat nose. To get the edge profile, you need to look at the cutter profile to setup the tool path correct. Also keep in mind, you will be taking material off the edges so any hold down fixturing must be clear of the cutter path. A vacuum table, or vacuum pods, would work best. If you are using a hobby machine, like a Shark or Shapeoko, you may need to double side tape or cut your profile in two passes giving you time in between to move your clamps. You will make a profile tool path the size of your door and then offset, make the profile large, by the radius of the nose (that flat end or the point). Even a point has a small radius that you may need to measure with a set of calipers. In a perfect world, the depth of cut would be the size of the round over, a 1/4 inch in this case, however between any variations in your spoil board or thickness inconsistencies in your MDF panel, you may end up with a score mark. In some cases, you want this thumbnail edge, in other case you don't. If you do, then you want to set your depth of cut deeper that the radius (the deeper, the more pronounced the edge). If you want to make sure you have no edge to sand later, set the depth of cut a little shallower (this will make sure the end of the radius is cutting above the face surface of the panel). Lastly, you may need to take a similar approach to adjust the offset of the profile so the cutter does not cut into the edge of the door. With all of that said, make some sample passes on a scrap piece to see how the offset and depth of cut affect the profile.

I just made some doors to match cabinets in my home. The only bits I used was a 1/2", 1/4", and 1/8" flat endmill, 1/4" ball nose. The profile and edge was a little more complicated than the video. Not having bits like the video make the process much slower, but it's doable. For hold down, I just brad nailed my pieces to the spoil. boards.

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