I just loved the brass insert technique!!! For the "builders" out there, here's a nice tip related with the first one on Martin's video: When you have to glue the hinges, you can get expoxy easily into the "hinge pocket" (and not everywhere else) by using a thick "drinking straw" piece (about 5cm). You pack it with epoxy inside and then you "flatten" the tip and squeeze the expoxy in... ...nice and clean. (before glueing the hinges, apply a very small bead of sillicon grease on the steel hinge axle to prevent sticking)
my grandmother done that with cake icing and glue for crafts and most people just say CA glue but with your accent it just sounds alot better to here you say it the way you do love the vids and info THANK YOU MARTIN
For a lightweight model or indoor model I would suggest using cyno and steristrips to do the hinges. Simply place one strip on the control surface and then S it around and onto the plane then create the same thing but the opposite way around a slight bit above the first hinge this makes a very strong job and works very well 👍 this was very complicated so welldone if you understand
I do a thing where you have to cut a hole on any composite surface like the cowl or the plane itself where your dremel cutting wheel doesn’t fit, I put masking tape and mark the hole with a marker and by using a 1mm drill bit I drill out the marking on the tape ( holes very close to each other ) and then join the holes by the spinning drill bit. Example: holes for fuel dots, powerbox switches, etc.
Learned something new again! Didn't know about the servo movement not being a problem.I am helping my brother with a Great Planes Extra 300 and his rudder servo was doing that.When a little force is put on it the shaking stops.I told him probably be ok,but he bought a new servo last night.I will let him know why it does that ,thanks and subbed!!
When building a model with a Powerbox, when the leads go under the main plate, I use the paper tape and tape 3-4 of them together, like for example all four ailerons, and both rudder and elevator. Whenever it needs to be opened, it's a lot cleaner. I label the tape as well too.
Martin, great videos and even greater tips! For future videos, consider a tip on how to get the best out of smoke systems, setup, components, and oil usage... keep it up!
I have always inserted the servo isolation spacers from the top! I don't think it matters as long as you don't tighten the screws so much that it locks the servo in solid, the servo should be able to move slightly on the rubber mounts.
Here's my lil' pro tip: Regarding your typical factory assembled PNP and ARF foamies, drop a bit of epoxy on the plastic hinges right out of the box (being careful not to clog the joint) so that the control surface stresses distribute over a bigger area and don't develop free play over time, making the models behave with more precission and improving mid/long-term reliability. ;) I particularly enjoyed the 'stop-servo-jittering-with-velcro' tip, but maybe I'd add to glue well the velcro in with contact glue, to make sure it doesn't come off and get stuck as the surface moves if it bends in such a way that impedes surface movement.
U are definitely my new favorite RC channel, I'm so glad that you do tutorials and do awesome high-quality videos, you are so good at your stunts and your flying, quick question. What is the purple plane behind you? Are they on the market?
Nice tips Martin thank you. Any more on positioning & mounting gear door mini servos please? Struggling with my Fei Bao L39 setup... while converting it to Electron Retracts and doors from air operation... 🤨