5 Reasons You May Not Need an Overhead Drum Sander [Flatmaster Review] 

Thank you and you are absolutely correct. I was a wee bit overzealous when making this video and didn't do a proper editing job. I had planned to correct the misinformation in a new video. Alas, there never seems to be enough time in the day to get everything done on a list of to-dos. I thank you for bringing this forward I'll see if I can figure out how to pin this comment to the top for others that watch the video. I also would like to thank you for pointing out how important it is for me to ensure that future videos are correct in order to help others Cheers Paul.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad I could help. We love it for doing our initial sanding of pieces for furniture we make. We still use our random orbital sander for the finishing part.

That is a great idea. You have the best of both types of sanders. I know Stumpy Nubs made his own a few years back similar to your setup

Glad you liked it!

I remember seeing Stumpy Nubs making one with available plas if I remember correctly. I too was thinking of going in that direction but we needed something practically ready to go of the box. It still needed assembly but it only took about an hour to assemble. We love it! It perfect for our first sanding pass at 80 grit to clean up any planer snipe and gives the pine wood a nice flat velvet finish. We find that the following orbital sanding goes much faster. Thanks for watching. Comments like yours really inspires us to make more videos. Cheers

@@DustyWorkbench well, I’ve changed my mind once again. After 3 day’s of thought I’m dropping the thickness sander, and going with just the “flat master” style drum sander. I all ready have a thickness planner so….what’s the point? I’m going one step further by making an 8” vertical belt sander and attaching to front of the box. I should be able make the table tilt From 90* to 45* like the commercial built disc sanders. I’ve purchased an 8” x 19” floor sanding belt, ( they come in several grits). If all goes as planned I’ll have an edge sander that has a full 8” of sanding surface instead of a disc that can only be use on the “down” side of the circle.

That is awesome Leroy! I am happy to hear you are liking it. The other great part is that you can actually use it as a work surface when not in use. I throw a 1/2" birch plywood on top -and Volia! Another working surface when needed. :)

@@DustyWorkbench Dusty, yes i'm in love with it. Great idea with topping it with ply and making an other work surface, your great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!'

Where did you get it? All I'm seeing online are 18" and 24". Was wondering if the 30 was still available. Please let me know. Thank you!

That is exactly what it is. If you build your own, you could make the infeed and outfeed longer to provide additional support. Even though it could be used as a jointer, we still bought a standard bladed jointer as the Flatmaster is not the most efficient for speed to joint edges. We love using it for wider surfaces that need to be sanded, it saves a lot of time. It would be nice to have a standard overhead drum sander as well so that you can use the Flatmaster to flatten one side then use the overhead drum to flatten and ensure parallel surfaces.

It seems like an overhead drum sander might be a better option for end grain boards. The one thing I can think of that an overhead does better is it makes the faces parallel to each other, as opposed to a jointer type sander that will make the faces angled and not parallel

Sounds great!

You are absolutely correct! I need to update/correct that information. It does work like a jointer, so if you need to have parallel faces and are not careful you can end up with a wedge. There is a way to use it as an overhead drum sander/planer to do the opposite side but I'm not a fan of the suggestion provided by the makers of this kit. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iHcq7kNALtY.html I'm hoping to figure out another easier option or jig that would work. Need to get a few other custom order projects out of the way first ;)

Oh yes, this type of sander is perfect for cleaning up tapered pieces.

It would cool to see your setup if you do add it as an outfeed for your table saw.

It is sweet! They don't seem to sell the 30" only the 18" and 24". It works well for our needs. Friendly reminder that there is no auto feed so if you have lots to sand you will get a good upper body workout ;)

Hi Mark, using the flatmaster is surprisingly easy...even I can manage to use it ;) I wouldn't start by using it on an expensive piece at first but once you get comfortable you can move on to more important pieces with full confidence. It can get a little tricky with longer pieces over four feet due to the short infeed and outfeed but the table can be adapted to individual needs. We do have the fence attachment with flexible wheels that can help keep even pressure, all you have to do is push it but we just don't need it for our applications. Using the fence would also help to prep your wood for joining if you don't have a jointer. It will take more passes compared to a jointer but in a pinch the flatmaster will work, again nice not having to worry about limited height of your piece.

Absolutely. I now have a nice 1/2" plywood I place on top when needed. Sometimes I am too much in a hurry and just work on top of it without the plywood. Don't recommend as I now have to clean up some glue and stain from the flatmaster surface.

This unit might be the answer. I haven't checked in awhile but they may no longer offer the 30" drum. You'll definitely want to make a large enough table (side and outfeed) to handle the size of boards you want to sand. If you are making your own with their drum kits you could make it both a flatmaster style and overhead type. Stumpynubs stumpynubs.com/product/dual-stage-drum-sander/ has plans for this. Maybe you make it open ended.

Thanks for discovering the Flatmaster through our video, and it's fantastic to see your interest in it! Regarding the 30" option, it's a good idea to wait until after the holidays to inquire. If you happen to get any additional information on its availability, we'd greatly appreciate it if you could keep us posted. It's always helpful to have the most up-to-date details. As for our experience with the Flatmaster, we're still loving it for our specific needs. However, it's worth noting that it may not be the perfect fit for everyone. One thing to keep in mind is that you have to manually push the piece over the drum. It's a hands-on process, so depending on your workflow and preferences, it might be a key consideration. If you have any more questions or need further insights, feel free to ask. Wishing you a wonderful holiday season and successful woodworking ventures! Paul

Yes pretty much the same as a jointer the way that this one is built. You can buy the cylinder kit on its own and make it so that you can use it also similar as a planer but didn't see the need for it for the type of work we do. Stumpy Nubs built one a few years back --> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GgqINdJa9Ww.html

Agree, it would be difficult to sand thin veneer unless can you adhere it to a something thicker / solid. Thanks for checking it out.

@@DustyWorkbench I had never seen anything like what you have and if I didn't have to sand wood so thin, I would probably buy one in a heartbeat.Thankyou for sharing.....

Hello there, we're thrilled to hear that the Flatmaster caught your attention, even though you had never heard of it before. The Flatmaster offers an exciting alternative that combines performance and affordability. As you mentioned the price point is hard to beat. We certainly do not regret getting it and love the fact that we can use it as another workstation when not in use.

Hi Clifford, The Flatmaster should definitely work for sanding thin wood sheets like guitar backs and sides (around 3/16" finished) because the depth of cut is actually determined by the grit of the sandpaper you use. For example, a 220 grit sandpaper will remove around 2/1000ths of an inch (or .002") of material. Here's a helpful video from StockroomSupply that explains how grit affects sanding depth ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MEZNnKSjD_0.html You can also use the Flatmaster for very delicate projects like scroll saw pieces, as shown in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1cSaI3GbFAg.htmlsi=wzUVEcXLGRnmRJ8p Even with a backing plate, the Flatmaster should be a good option for achieving a smooth finish on your guitar without gouging the wood. Be sure to keep a consistent speed going over the drum. Happy Sanding Paul

Yes but it can be difficult to manage longer pieces with the short table top that I have. If I had to do longer, wider, or heavier pieces I would make my tabletop much longer, wider, and put on my fence with hold down wheels to keep it all under control.

No, we haven't tried it on thin stock and feel that it would not be a good option. As you mentioned if you don't have perfect pressure throughout the process of moving the wood veneer across the sandpaper you will be left with grooves. The only way I can see it working is if you had a way to attach the thin stock to a rigid backer board, then remove from the backer once complete or attaching the veneer to your finished piece and then pass through. Using a very fine grit of course to ensure you do not take too much off at once.

Maybe adhering it to a flat panel would suffice. For small items on a drum sander, a backer board can be used with a thin rear edge stopper to keep it from sliding off the rear.

It is the same height on each side. The sandpaper is attached to the cylinder with velcro. When turned on the sand paper goes above the height of the surface due to centrifugal force. There is air gap between the sandpaper and the cylinder so does not heat up or gum up as much. You determine the depth of removal according to the sandpaper grit. Simple as want less removal put finer grit, want more removed use higher grit. We keep an 80 grit in ours that we use as our first sanding pass.

The 30" does come with the steel top but it does have an mdf layer underneath.

@@DustyWorkbench Thank you!

You can. I have never tried small or thin pieces, but Ethan from Stockroomsupply.ca made a video on that a while back where he made a jig to make opening narrower and used a fine grit.

We bought everything from stockroomsupply. We use it almost every day and have only changed the paper once since we bought it, not counting the initial trial explosion. Lol We keep it at 80grit to do the initial sending run then the following grits with an orbital. Works well for what we use it for.

I was thinking the same thing on the lack of reviews and videos out there. So odd for today's RU-vid dominated world. That said, it looks like a great concept and product so I'm very intrigued.

It's not much good for small projects. You can go with the smallest flatmaster and make a jig. Like the one in this link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j_0abJJv9d0.html

Not hard at all. can be changed in 1 to 2 minutes. Here is a great video on how to change -> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JZUD9qbjono.html

The in-feed and out-feed do not change. You change the depth of "cut" by changing the sandpaper grit. When setting up with new paper, you have the paper just below or equal to the table top. Once you turn it on it will rise just above the table and contact the wood as you pass, so you need to push the wood at a steady rate otherwise you will end up with an indentation. The lower the grit number and the slower you go the more wood will be removed at once but only to the maximum depth that the sandpaper will raise above the table surface by centrifugal force.

Hehehe! That we do 😀 Thank you for watching our video on "5 Reasons You May Not Need an Overhead Drum Sander [Flatmaster Review]"! We appreciate your feedback and support. If you found the content helpful or have any questions, feel free to let us know. Keep feeding your passion for woodworking and creating!

Not with our setup. If we had a larger workshop I would set it up with a larger table top in order to manage larger slabs. That said, you would want your slab to be fairly flat otherwise it can take quite a few++ passes to get a long slab flattened. We find our table manages best with pieces that 3-4 feet long.

Hi 👋 Yes, it has a similar backing as the sandpaper for orbital sanders. We bought ours through stockroomsupply.ca but you can also get it from places like Amazon 👍

It works well for us, for the type of woodworking we do but may not be for everyone. The option to use it as a workspace was one of the main reasons we went with this sander. I did make a mistake when I said it can work like a planer but I should have said it works like a jointer.

The only way to adjust the depth per pass is by changing the sandpaper grit.

This may be a great option, depending how you will be using it. They no longer sell the 30" cylinder, only the 18" and 24" which makes sense as I think the 30" was a little overkill. ;)

Hi there! I appreciate your comment and sorry to hear about your experience with the Flatmaster. It's frustrating when a tool doesn't live up to expectations, especially when support doesn't come through. Have you explored any alternative sanders that might better suit your needs? I'd love to hear more about your journey in finding the right tool for your projects. Keep creating, and feel free to share more about your experiences!

Hi, I bought the whole unit, not the kit. It is unfortunate that the instructions for the diy kit isn't easy to follow. The motor on my unit is on the left side (with the vacuum attachment being the back) at an approximate 45degree below the cylinder. The unit I have does have a groove cut out to allow room for the belt to pass under the table. Hope that helps. If I get a chance, I'll try to post some pictures.

@@DustyWorkbench thanks for the reply, I reworked my design a bit and attached the motor under the unit. I am using it to flatten segmented rings for bowls, it seems to work great. My only real issue is the very poor instructions, and entire lack of support from Stockroom supplies. I have sent emails and posted on their facebook page, and nothing. So luckily the product is ok, as their support is non existant.

Hahaha...yes that would make for a good size jointer for the fraction of the cost ;)

You sure can! If you do, would love to see it. Stumpy nubs made his own version of a top and bottom feed sander as you describe: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GgqINdJa9Ww.html Another thing to consider is using the Flatmaster cylinder instead of the drum sander cylinder/drum. The Flatmaster cylinder is polycarbonate (antistatic) and velcro which allows air for air between the cylinder and sandpaper keeping it from heating and gumming up.

@@DustyWorkbench Thank you for the video link to Stumpy’s drum sander. It’s a good prelude to what I’m about to do. I will post a link to my video once I do it. It will be a while as I got other furniture projects due before I can execute on this side project. The static electricity issue can be resolved with a spraying metallic conductive paint on the PVC pipe and the wooden drum sides in Stumpy’s machine. The advantage of the commercial machine modification is that you don’t have the issue with static as the drum is made out of Aluminum, but also you got the cooling properties of the drum taking the heat away from the paper. I did watch a video of a home made sanding machine and in some cases the Velcro caused overheating as it acts like an insulator and it kept that sand paper getting hotter and hotter. Ideally you would want an aluminum drum or better yet copper as copper has even better thermal properties and have fins in the inside of the drum under an angle so when the drum spins it draws air from one side and exhausts it from the other keeping it cool. Another cool addition to a drum sander or a wide belt sander would be an air blade you see on those hand dryers in restrooms from Dyson. A thin wide narrow opening which would be directed at the rotating drum, removing any stuck in dust and debris from the sand paper making it last longer and always having a fresh paper sanding the surface. I’ve tried that with my compressor while sanding. Maybe I’ll think of how to implement it in my JET 22-44OSC oscillating drum sander and make a video about that. Thank you again. Cheers.

Sorry Bill, thought I did but you are correct. You can start from the basic parts kit and build your own box or buy a full unit (cylinder, pulleys, bearings, steel box and top, etc.) and you add the motor of your choice or buy one from them as well. Can be just plain motor or pay extra for them to wire up with a switch.

I personally appreciate the option of not purchasing with a motor. Hoping to save a couple hundred bucks because I'm pretty sure we have an extra motor out in our repair shop i can use. :) Should save on shipping costs as well.

Thanks for letting me know. :) I checked the links and they all worked for me. Some of the social links needed updates but otherwise everything else seem to be working properly. Maybe there was a glitch or do you have some security blocking app in place? Thank you for watching and I will ask some friends to test them out to be sure. Cheers Paul