This is the first time I’ve been impressed enough about a video to leave a comment saying as much, every second had value, you didn’t waste one second of my time being cute, very Germanic , keep it up and thank you very much.
I feel really stupid for this. But i made it to the 2nd step and my shit fired up. Worked on it for 8 hours after a complete restoration and had this issue. Thank you for a helpful video.
After about 6 hours of head scratching mine wound up being the shift control lever needing to be moved around. I have been a shade tree mechanic for well over 50 years and I would have never got to the bottom of this without the help of your video. I cannot thank you enough.
After changing my starter. Starter solenoid. And starters relay switch. I finally came to RU-vid and put my truck in park and it started. Thanks sticky gear shifter 🥴 hopefully my comment can help someone else. Cheers v10 lovers
Excellent video! Our coach is a 2013 Tiffin Open Road. We have replaced two starters and are in the process of probably buying another starter to have onboard in case we get to the point where the starter will not start even after sitting overnight. I will check with NAPA today and purchase the shield. I wondered how a shield could be fitted on and what I just saw on your video shows how it can be done. This looks to simple to work but it sure will be the bomb if it works! Thanks again! Tony
Thanks for the really informative video. My problem is in a Winnebago Sightseer (Class A). Just returned from 7 weeks Pacific Northwest - very high humidity, everything feels damp. While in the damp, the no crank problem was intermittent, but I could count on it happening every day under variety of conditions: cold start in the morning, restart having driven for several hours, restart after running at idle for couple of minutes. I have done all of the steps you suggest, except crossing the terminals on the starter solenoid. Now that I am back in Reno, Nevada (DRY), the no crank situation is infrequent….so infrequent that it would be difficult to show it to a mechanic. When I get the no start and then hold the ignition key in the start position for 30 seconds to 1 minute, the starter will crank normally. After this, when I shut it off and restart, the starter generally cranks normally immediately when the key is advanced to the start position. Another thing I have noticed with this situation….. I have a Victron Battery Monitor that monitors both coach and chassis batteries and I can watch them with my iPhone while I start the coach. When I engage the ignition (before turning to start position), there is about a 20 amp draw from the coach batteries and a noticeable increase in the chassis battery voltage - from 12.7v to 13.5v. This happens even though I have NOT engaged the battery booster switch. My intuition tells me that this should not happen unless I engage the battery booster. I wish I had done this monitoring before I started experiencing the no crank situation. I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have, especially with the power shifts that I have observed with the Victron Monitor.
Possibly the draw on the chassis battery is the daytime headlights. Disconnect the bulbs and see if that is it. I switched to LED headlights (see other video). It also sounds like your latching relay is engaging automatically. Before tracking that down I would check the chassis battery cables. Most likely there is an inline fuse (a big one) that is probably located on the frame rail below the battery. There might be corrosion that needs cleaned up. Also check the ground to the frame, it also might need cleaned up. I would also swap the starting relay with a different on (see video) as yours might be going out. Are you sure the chassis battery is good? I would do a load test on it, or try another battery if you have one. Many times the volts will be good, but not enough amps will flow.
Ive got the same issue with heat sink on an "oem" replacement. After pulling a trailer 200 miles, I'm stranded for 20 minutes, then it starts right up. Gonna take an old reflective windshield sun screen, cut it down and wrap the starter with it to get a heat barrier. We'll see if this works. Good video.
Can you replace just the solenoid? Or even better replace or clean the contacts in the solenoid? It looks like two screws and one cable to remove. I had a 1985 Toyota Supra with a clicking solenoid and no crank. The contacts in the solenoid were worn flat. Cost me 4$ to replace.
i got a 2000 limited excursion that will crank fine one minute then won't the next. its not the key or pc i dont think because the theft light isn't flashing faster than normal and the shifter is plenty tight. i usually can wait a day and it will crank. i went to the taco bell no problem last night and when i cut it off i tried to restart it and it acted like there was no power getting to the starter. got in it first thing this morning and it cranked no problem then i shut it down and tried to restart and again no power to the starter. any suggestion on what it can be sir?
Okay I did all that replaced the starter still the same as if I didn't even put in a new starter...i heard a bunch of relays clicking my fuse box looks nothing like yours..i have 2001 Ford excursion v10 gas.4x4... my son had the keys out of ignition and some how the starter was grinding it's teeth away against the fly wheel...please help..
What a coincidence.. family is sitting here about a thousand miles from home… sitting at a gas pump in the middle of Wyoming because our rv isnt starting
I have this issue but it only happens when it's cold out (< 60 deg. F). Kept turning the ignition switch on and off, and it finally started. Changed the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well and it worked, until today when it's somewhat cold out again. Any suggestions?
Was it a no crank situation? If so, I would replace the relay shown in the video. If it cranks but does not start, I would cycle the key 2 or 3 times before trying to start. Pause a couple seconds between cycle. This lets the fuel pump pressurize the line. If that solves it you either need a fuel pump or your injectors are leaking. Try some injector cleaning for a few tanks and it may solve it… cheaper than a fuel pump.
@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.
I put a new battery in my class A v10 after sitting for a year. It cranked right up but a week later it only clicks and doesn’t start. It’s now up my driveway and not possible to tow out so I’ll have to work on it myself. Any other ideas?
I have the same problem with my class A. I have gone through the steps and no fix. I want to know if e everything in the cockpit should be dead? I have nothing lights, dash, mirrors or levelers. Absolutely no sounds when I turn the key. If this is possible then I will replace the starter and solenoid. Just amazed there is still no noise.
No, you should have power to dash. Did you turn on your entry switches (main and aux) near the door? Does your battery (engine) have power? Have you checked fuses?
You got a different problem. I would check the main battery cables to make sure the are good. Also there is a large 250amp or larger fuse on the rail below the battery. It may have blown. Just trace the battery cable to find it.
I have tried for 10 min to open my power distribution box. Now it is pouring rain. I hope that is my issue. I dont think it is starter because i have no power to dash lights either
I have a blown 30 amp fuse at the location 22 ,I think it's the 8th fuse in the second row ..I don't know what that dude controls ,is Thier a wiring diagram
@@swalesutube its not on the cover the covers says to check owners manual,but I got it the on line owners manual,it was for the dlc and the cig lighter,thanks for responding,
@@swalesutube interesting, i wonder why, my has the solenoid under front passenger, i am in a no crank situation, and i can turn over from solenoid or at the starter, but can get nothing at the key, I do hear the relay clicking, will be working on it more today, thanks for response
i got a 2000 limited excursion that will crank fine one minute then won't the next. its not the key or pc i dont think because the theft light isn't flashing faster than normal and the shifter is plenty tight. i usually can wait a day and it will crank. i went to the taco bell no problem last night and when i cut it off i tried to restart it and it acted like there was no power getting to the starter. got in it first thing this morning and it cranked no problem then i shut it down and tried to restart and again no power to the starter. any suggestion on what it can be sir?
