I've never seen a winch that wound in from the bottom of the spool instead of over the top that just don't look right I have three winches and they all run off the top of the spool when winding in not off the bottom maybe it was round round from the factory or is that the way it's supposed to be I don't buy from Harbor Freight bad experiences in the past with their stuff but I think I'm going to call him and just out of curiosity to see if it's supposed to wind off the bottom if so that's a new one on me thanks for the video
I have never seen one that winds from the top. All mine wind from bottom. I think the key is what is in line with the fair lead. I also verified my Warn winch and it winds in from bottom. I would unspool yours and check what the drum says to confirm yours is correct. It should have an indication on the drum.
Senior…. Thanks to you and this video. I was stuck in Amarillo this morning 800 miles from home. Had already changed battery out as it was going bad. Wouldn’t start. Reset the relay and voila it turned over. Just finished a 13 hour drive home safe thanks to you. Well done sir.
I just recently purchased a fan for the roof of my golf cart. 12v 120watts. I purchased a PWM off of Amazon with a kill switch built in. When I hook it up and turn it on and turn the dial up it will not turn my fan at all. I hooked up my multimeter on the outlet side and it is pushing 12v out of the PWM. Fan will run straight to power just fine or with a two way switch. Any thoughts on what I am missing?
I just recently purchased a fan for the roof of my golf cart. 12v 120watts. I purchased a PWM off of Amazon with a kill switch built in. When I hook it up and turn it on and turn the dial up it will not turn my fan at all. I hooked up my multimeter on the outlet side and it is pushing 12v out of the PWM. Fan will run straight to power just fine or with a two way switch. Any thoughts on what I am missing?
So question I’d like to ask? What are your thoughts on a fan of similar size under the dash? I’m looking for dust control mostly, would that cause the pressure around the feet area to keep the dust out? Maybe not quite as harsh as the fan blowing or noise right at your face ??? What you think?
Would be terrible for heat. Most of the heat comes from under the dash area because that’s where the radiator blow it.., and the hoses run under the floor. Plus, where does it get the fresh air? You would just be blowing dust and heat around. You MUST get fresh air from above the fan if you want it to work properly. Make sure to get the LARGEST fan you can fit, so you can run it slower rpm and the noise it not bad.
Was it burning oil because of excessive miles or was it the typical intake boots leaking? Also I’m curious what hone you used to hone the cylinder and what you set the ring gap to. I’m just in the middle of doing an in frame build right now. This one destroyed the cam chain side piston but had been using oil since the first dealer oil change after it was new.
Intake boots were fine. Most likely the previous owner did not take care of air filter and oil changes. DO NOT hone the cylinder as it has a coating that honing will destroy. Sounds like you should be doing a FULL rebuild since you destroyed a piston. I suspect there is a lot more wrong. I ended up doing a FULL rebuild and glad I did. I found a bad bearing on balance shaft and a stretched oil pump chain (see other video) which would have grenaded the engine. I checked the Polaris spec for ring gap, and the Wiseco ring gap specs. I used the Weisco spec…. Since it was their pistons and rings. The 900 burns oil for 2 main reasons. The rings and the intake valve guides. Your old rings will be very worn with a huge gap. That’s the source for most of the oil usage. The valve guides add to it. I tried valve seals first, but it made little difference. When I saw the ring gap it was obvious. Also when I had the valve guides done they showed me my valves. The edges were sharp as a knife. This means they are worn out. So I had those replaces and went ahead and did the springs as well, so a full rebuild on head. I think the engine had less than 3500 miles on it when I got it. So you can have major oil burning in a short time. I now have over 4000 miles on rebuild and everything is working fine. I credit that to the air system (see other video). I no longer get any dust in the engine, and it runs cooler as well as belt is cooler.
@@swalesutubeyou can hone plated cylinders in fact you need to hone them if the cross hatch is worn away which mine were on one side.You just have to use the right hone which I have. I’m trying to do this in frame and it is a huge pain. Wishing I’d have just bought a reman and the R&R’d it but here we are. The intake boots were/are famous for sucking in dirt and taking out the rings. That’s why Polaris has updated the boots twice now. (Mine is a 2015 model year). What happens is people don’t maintain them and change the air filters then the engine has to suck air somewhere so the intake boots are the path of least resistance. In my case it actually leaned the mixture out enough to melt the exhaust side of the piston away. Slightly damaged the surface in the exhaust valves so I replaced those. The oil looked really clean. It’s not mind it’s my neighbours and he never checked the air filter in 3200 miles. Hard to believe people spend that much on a new machine then run it until failure.
Yes, I am aware of the “right hone”, but it doesn’t take much to burn thru. When I checked my cylinder there were a few areas that were already burn thru… before honing. All things considered I would just replace the cylinder as it is cheap compared to all the components you have to replace if you are wrong. Head bolts, gaskets, etc add up to enough cost to just replace the cylinder.
Installing now and wanting to do the same but slightly different config between two batteries... but sounds like same issue which is grrrrrrr bad... I think. [Onan 4K EVAP Generator + EC-AGS+] I want to START the generator with my 12V RV battery (AGM with 450 CCA), but want the trigger battery to be SOC of my 48V EG4 system battery bank. I am not using my generator for RV inversion power... but to connect to EG4 Chargeverter connected to power my EG4 48V battery bank (5.12kWh x2). With what you found... I'm wondering/researching if can use wire(s?) from EG4 3K inverter dry contact to the EC-AGS+ to then use Red wire connected to 12V battery to start the Gen. Phewwwww.... I don't know... we'll see. -Mike
Fantastic video! Great information! I too am interested in this device but Onan R&D has come up a bit short it appears... The threshold for keeping the gateway/app active and the temp control issues are keeping me on the bench for now. There absolutely should be a high temp/low temp control point and the programming should allow for a cool down period once the low temp is achieved. Sub'd to your channel in hope of an update video....provided Onan listens to their customers.. Thanks!
I hope to get with Onan R&D to discuss my recommendations. The unit is still usable once you understand how it works, that’s why I did the video. I was mainly concerned with temperature control as I have solar to keep batteries charged. A few software tweaks and this could be a solid system.
Hello, Are you interested in testing our products? We would like to invite you to test the Air Vent Windshield for your RZR XP 900 (if your car is 2011-2013
Our fridge just quit cooling but the freezer is at 32. All fuses are good. I am at a lose is to what to do next. We are on the road so cannot take it to a shop and wait weeks to get it back. I have not pulled the unit out. Any ideas would be helpful.
I had a similar problem. I ended up unplugging all connections in the control panel behind the fridge and plugging them back in. Surprisingly that worked. My plan was just to test the thermister (ohms test), and it tested ok. I figured I would check all the plugs connections while in there. There must have been a bad connection because mine has now been working for over a year. Give it a try.
Maybe on the next rebuild. Many have used this method… see comments. It works, but you will probably discover a full rebuild is in order. That’s what happened in my case. Found a bad bearing and chains were stretched.
Failed miserably is an understatement. I’m fighting this right now. My bell housings out and I’m struggling. lol I have a couple different things coming to try. Can you switch it to the gen 2 cover with one bolt
I bought the same brand, only mine is 16". $36 on Amazon. I found the same thing about the amps. Startup was about 10+ amps, runs about 6 or 7... Great video. I put mine on my very large lawn tractor. (Steiner 450)
I have the same fan does anyone know why mine blows the wrong way instead of blowing air out it sucks air in and no matter how I wire it it won’t blow air out only suck air in
Got a 👍 from me & subbed, the mesh wire as a mount is a EXCELLENT idea not only for a safety issue but also because such is WONDERFUL as a mount because you have so many options to mount it and other stuff because of the availability of holes that you DON'T have to drill, I want to do the same on a smaller scale to put in front of my Hot Florida driven Air cooled Honda 300 , so if you don't mind I may like to connect more directly with you about my project, I'm a electrical idiot, thanks for your production
I have this issue but it only happens when it's cold out (< 60 deg. F). Kept turning the ignition switch on and off, and it finally started. Changed the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well and it worked, until today when it's somewhat cold out again. Any suggestions?
Was it a no crank situation? If so, I would replace the relay shown in the video. If it cranks but does not start, I would cycle the key 2 or 3 times before trying to start. Pause a couple seconds between cycle. This lets the fuel pump pressurize the line. If that solves it you either need a fuel pump or your injectors are leaking. Try some injector cleaning for a few tanks and it may solve it… cheaper than a fuel pump.
@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.
This will be try #2 first time damaged a ring..Any one near me in needles ca.. that could help out a fellow rider please let me know thanks 4 the video ..
really like your windshield design!!! what type of glass company did you use? something like an auto glass repair/replace or some general purpose glass company?
Just want to ask a question because you probably know. When pressuring the cylinder with air you must keep the piston from moving down right? I used blocks of wood to keep the primary clutch from moving which I'm pretty sure kept the crank from being able to move. This is what I plan to do for changing the valve seals. How did you keep the crank/piston(s) from moving. And do you know the diameter of the spring retainers?
@@swalesutube thanks for your prompt responses! I realized I can just use a normal spring compressor adapter set and wood fulcrum. Do you mind telling me how you strapped the primary clutch and to what? Like did you go through it and strap to something or around it and to something? I hope the wood blocks was alright. It seemed to work okay but if one came dislodged for any reason it could F me up.
I went around the primary with the strap. The second time I did it (another story) I just used a pry bar through the primary to frame. Both methods worked. Don’t worry, you are over thinking it. The air pressure will hold the valve up even if the crank moves a little. Just make sure you are at TDC for the cylinder, then if air would fail the valve cannot drop too low to retrieve. Make sure you follow the video tip of hitting the top of the valve stem first… to pop the keepers loose.
@@swalesutube definitely will do thanks. I would be the ones I'm working with will be stuck too. It's actually a friend's 2012 RZR900 not mine. Smoking a lot on startup and throttle application. Starts and seems to run good but I haven't ran it more than a little bit in a parking lot. I thought the compression would be low and leak test reveal rebuild percentages but it was actually 9 and 3.5%. I thought the compression readings were low for a warmed up engine though. And by the amount of dirt in the filter and sucked into the intake I thought it would have really bad condition intake valves but I won't know for sure unless I take the head off. I saw a video of an xp1000 turbo where he had a spot in the valve train where the cam lobes weren't pushing on any of the buckets. He marked the cam sprockets to the chain and put it back the same way without separating them. He replaced one head bolt at a time then put it back together and it ran just fine. I was going to attempt it that way so I didn't have to separate cams and sprockets or turn the engine multiple times or move the cams multiple times to get the timing back right. Idk I should probably just follow the book and not do it the other way because it might leave room for the valve to drop if I should lose air pressure. As long as I block the primary I shouldn't though.
From the antennae booster to the splitter. Each TV has coax that goes to splitter. The RCA to coax box allows the Wally to send from RCA (because bedroom and outside TV do not have HDMI, so they use coax (which goes to splitter). So if antennae booster is off the Wally will display on channel 3. If booster is on then it is using antennae for over the air TV.
What a coincidence.. family is sitting here about a thousand miles from home… sitting at a gas pump in the middle of Wyoming because our rv isnt starting
We have gone on a few camping trips and WOW what a difference. This has been one of the best upgrades. So much nicer to watch TV while reclined. We really like the material and would like to recover the dinette with same…. Future project.
Could always drill a hole right above housing into boat and use reinforced tubing to protect wire then silicone. Or! Use the same wiring and just cut/splice the trim with waterproof connectors easy done
We are full timing in our 2020 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel. I've been having a terrible time getting my dometic Rm1350smlx to run. About 2 months ago, it gradually stopped cooling in the fridge but still working ok in the freezer. We checked fuses and wires with ohm and tic meter, all seemed ok. I realized though the fans and inside light were both not working. Found the blasted hidden 5amp fuse under that mass of wires in the power control. Replaced it and fan/light came back on, but after 2 days on, no cooling to any part of the unit. So we replaced the thermistor. Still nothing. Enter head scratch. ....called the technician..... he replaced thermostat and rerouted the thermistor to the 100degree temps outside in effort to force unit to cool....it worked. However, still was only getting 40 degree cooling on level 5 (coldest setting). He replaced everything on his second visit. 5 hours after he left and I paid him, the 5 amp fuse blew again. I replaced it, and it blew again when I turned the switch on. Called the tech again.....he came back out and unplugged the heating coils to the front of the unit that controls door condensation (which is laughable that this unit even had because I was constantly for 3 years wiping the condensation off). He said hopefully it will work. ( the reading was very low for this heat thing so he figured it might be tripping the fuse). Guess what? A day later I open the door to the fridge to check the temps and ...bang! There goes the fuse again. I cant afford another tech. This guy had to come out 3 times and was still scratching his head when he left. I dont know what it could be at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am having to live out of the coolers right now......ugh....... What in the world could possibly cause the fuse to continually instantaneously blow? Can I run this unit if I buy an external fan that directly plugs in to the wall? Help!!!!
The manual says: “The main control board has two fuses. The 3 amp DC fuse is designed to protect the circuit board from internal/ external DC shorts. The 5 amp AC fuse is designed to protect the integrity of the AC detection and heater circuit from shorts. There is also a wire with a 4 amp fuse from the terminal block to an external relay for the fans and water line heater.” So it seems it’s the 5 amp AC fuse. Does it blow fuses when on LP gas mode? If not maybe the electric heating elements have a short and need replaced. There are 2 heating elements in series. You can ohm them out with a meter. Just disconnect the leads and put the meter on the leads. It should read 34.3 ohms plus or minus 10%.
Also, you need a small fan on the inside of the fridge pointing to the fins on the back. This makes a HUGE difference in cooling. Mine was at 40 degrees in fridge and with fan it hold 34 degrees now.
Ok so checked for ohms reading on the heat elements and is reading 34.9. I did another ohms reading of the two pronged flap heater switch and it is reading only .03.....nothing.
Actually..... I had the meter not set correctly for the door flap heater prongs. So correct reading is 27 ohms. You think maybe the interior light could cause ????
The door flap heater should be 29 ohms +- 10%, so it seems ok. I would definitely check the bulb. Was it changed? Also remember that if voltage is low the amp draw goes up. So maybe your 120 AC is low or your 12v DC is low. Check grounds and battery connections.
I feel really stupid for this. But i made it to the 2nd step and my shit fired up. Worked on it for 8 hours after a complete restoration and had this issue. Thank you for a helpful video.
