5 Things I Hate About My Kubota BX2380 

1. Drill a bigger hole 2. Use a acorn nut 3. Zip ties 4. The cutting-edge implement is for digging, not for scooping 5. Use a oil funnel 🤷🏻‍♂️ Just solved all your problems for $10 or less. If you think these little problems are annoying, don’t bother buying a John Deere. 🤣

Hi Jack, I have the same tractor, when I did the pre-delivery inspection I noticed the same issue with the ROPS, the technician fixed it by using a small type dremmel to grind the hole and make it just a bit bigger. What also helps that I’ve since noticed is loosening the big bolt just a bit and that seems to help. Take care

I use the battery powered fuel pump from Harbor Freight and never standing there holding a fuel can.

Objective and a fair review. Well done. The 2022 edition of the tractor is greatly improved, but it still has some difficulties which make a one man show nearly impossible.

Man, puck the folice!...ditch that gooberment-mandated safety spout on the gas can, get you a replacement nozzle from tractor supply or wherever. Drill a quick hole in the can and you now have a vent, along with a long and flexible spout you could just shove in the fuel fill. So much better.

The handle is pretty helpful when your driving on a high or hilly part of land I like it to hold on with mine it’s a pretty good setup.

Get a shaker siphon hose and you don’t have to worry about spilling and it very quick also. The rops needs to be adjusted with the two knobs on the front and they work easily.

Good review. With you on the gas cans. The new cans are awful! I have some metal cans and older plastic cans that I use for big fill-ups. I always use a wide funnel when filling my tractor. It allows for errors and is very helpful when trying to pour from a full, heavy, 5-gallon can.

I got a JustRite Type II can on Zoro for $65 and the extended nozzle works amazing, also won't tip over in my car. Solves the handle being in the way. Thankfully I watched this video before I bought a plastic can and avoided that. Thanks man!

Another thing: When you turn those lights underneath consider a rear mount bullet pair. run the wiring conductors down the rops and switch accordingly. I love my rears and use them alot plowing snow.

for the fan getting broke, I bought a aftermarket shield to protect the fan. I’m glad you told me about the poor quality of the wiring on the third function valve. On the fuel problem maybe a funnel would help. I haven’t noticed a problem with the throttle at all. It may need adjustment. Happy tractoring!

The No Spill cans actually work very well for me. It rests right on the handle and the spout is dead center of tank. They’re a little pricey but are well built and fast flow

I just subscribed to your channel about two weeks ago and enjoy all your content very much. Two things on the fuel can: first, if it's releasing fuel before you get it in the tank you need a new nozzle, part of the idea is that it has to be in the tank and depressed to deliver fuel so as not to be pouring it on the ground and creating an eco-tastrophy. Second, I found a conversion kit on Amazon with a vent and extendable, flexible nozzle to convert modern, stupid gas cans into usable, vented cans. I don't know yet if it will fit a diesel can but I intend to try and if not I'll check the seller for a diesel version. If you're interested I'll send you a link. I am a 5 week owner of a BX23S and a homesteader wanna-be and really appreciate your videos.

There’s a little tab on those safety can that you can use the lip of the fuel tank neck and push on it. Those cans can be turned completely upright, then push it down on the filler neck with the tab on the can and fuel begins to flow. I have a BX and use a similar can with no issues, good video thanks

For fuel loading you need to fix your fuel can. Go to Central Tractor(Tractor Supply Company) and pick up the fuel can vent along with a new spout. That way you wont have to use the push connection to dispense fuel into your tractor. Another way might be to get a fuel caddy and mount it on the wall of your garage. Then its like pumping fuel from a gas tank.

Tractor Supply (and others) sell a fix kit for the approved ventless . You can drill a proper vent in the back and add covered port. It also comes with a longer flexible hose for the pour.

I had a BX and it never let me down but just too small... Upgraded to a B2650 and wish I had done it sooner. I have had it for a few years now 300 hours later, with no regrets.

Try loosening the Black knobs on your ROPS. I turn mine almost all the way out and I have no issues. You can also loosen the bolts by 1/4 turn and that might help too.

The biggest complaint we get is “I should have bought bigger.”

Thanks for the vid. the 3rd function is ridiculous, I'll have to hash this out when I purchase. Side note, every wheel loader I've operated, CAT and Komatsu, have the cutting edge mounted on the bucket the same way.

We have two BXs and a John Deere 1025R. When JD upgraded the 2305 to the 1025R, they remedied the fan issue, but BX didn't. I was really disappointed, but just added Bro Tek protectors AFTER a fan was shredded with the deck mounted. DON'T count on the deck for protection.

I am very confused by that jerrycan. I've never seen one like that in Canada, with that weirdly short and rigid hose, so maybe this is one of those small differences between Canada and the US. If you're in New Hampshire and need a jerrycan with a longer and more flexible nozzle, you could go up to Quebec and buy one at Canadian Tire or Home Depot.

To sort the the fuel filling use a large funnel which I do when filling any vehicle.

I knew the fan was gonna make the list. I remember you talking about that on another video. :)

Great video, we are looking at getting a new tractor. This video was a huge help.

Check out SureCan 5 gallon diesel fuel cans. I have one I use for my BX2380, grab handle is in a perfect spot to hold up the can up. Also I had the same issue with my ROPS, I adjusted the rear knobs and no longer have a problem. Throttle, get a nylon filled lock nut. Use it as the last nut.

3rd function issues fall on your dealer. They install it and sometimes they don’t use the landpride (kubota). I’ve already seen them use aftermarket ones to save a buck. As far as connectors , they should be zip tied away.

Go to Tractor supply and buy the old style filler neck for your fuel can. Makes life so good. Also I like you do not like the electric style of 3rd function valve. I researched that and when I ordered my tractor I did a hydraulic 3rd function valve setup. Grapples are awesome.

I have some of those nozzles for fuel cans, there is supposed to be a little nub on the end of it that rests on the filler neck to push the nozzle open so you dont have to hold the nozzle just the can. You may be able to get a piece of rubber hose from the auto parts store that fits on to extend the nozzle to make it so the fuel goes in the filler neck at a much more shallow angle. I used to do that for filling the furnace fuel tank. I had almost 2 feet of hose on the nozzle that would go in the filler with the can up right. Then I could tip the can up with no spillage.

Put the seat forward, and fill the tank with the can sitting behind the seat. You dont have to hold it, and the weight of the can keeps the valve on the can open.

I fixed the rops on mine in two minutes by finding a drill bit the size of the pin and running it through. Simple fix. Get rid of your gas can and get one from a race shop. Sometimes they call them "water cans" and they come in different colors. If I were running a tooth bar, I would simply take the bolt on cutting edge off. This will help lift capacity and roll back power too.

Go to Tractor Supply and get a replacement spout for your can. Round head bolts would solve your bucket edge cutter or weld the cutting edge on like most folks do.

And the handle is placed there because if you're driving along an incline you want to reach to the side to hold on, not down and forward, The filler is their because the tank is under the rear. It's a great design

I always use a Mr. Funnel because I have had issues in the past with junk in my fuel and like to filter my fuel one last time. It makes it alot easier to pour the fuel with a container like you have. I have done what Mike says below and no issues, never had to use a hammer. slight push maybe to align. Yes Kubota could have done a better job on the lever. There again, all tractors will have some issues that they could have done better job designing and each person will have their own take what they would like to see on a tractor. I have the BX2680. My issue is the whining from the Hydrostat and the foot lever locations for forward and reverse. I would have like a 2 pedal side by side setup. The other issue I had is the cheap top link, and the 2 stabilizer arms. I replaced these items and installed a set of Pat's Quick Hitch.

Fair review. One of the things I dislike most about this tractor -- and this goes for the entire BX series -- is how it looks. It really looks like a slightly larger riding lawn mower and not like a farm tractor. I've seen this machine in showrooms and...I just can't bring myself to like its styling. IMO, the BX series would look much better if the tractors had: 1) Bigger wheels (the 12 inch rear rims and 10 inch front rims look puny), and 2) Less plastic trim (this makes the machine look cheap). I have a B6200 from the early 80s. Yes, it's a bit less powerful and the manual transmission takes some getting used to, but, IMO, it looks much, much better than any modern BX tractor. The 16 inch rear rims and 12 inch front ones really help out there!

Agree on all accounts - I have an older model BX (60-series) and there have been no real improvements between the 60 and 80 series BX's that I can see. Though I will say I'm envious of the hood redesign on the 80 series. Pulling the lower bonnet off every time I want to do something in the engine is a real pain. Regarding the throttle, I ended up using a nylon lock nut and really tightened it down...you basically need the hand of god to adjust the throttle on my tractor. Not wonderful, but it doesn't creep back. My wife got me a small battery-operated fill pump for my 5-gal plastic gas can; works wonders and really saves the back. I think she picked it upon Amazon.

Jack, the tractor guy! Those all seem like valid points! Good video!

I use a gas approved red can that has a swivel spout on the bottom of the can. I simply swivel to desired location then press handle on top to let fuel out.

Better the fan breaks than the shaft...and for your gas try a funnel...its much better than the gas fill on tge middle of the hood. Ty for the cool video👍👍👍

Hey, thanks for the well done review. Thoughtful operational criticisms are not easy to find. I’ll be looking at 2024 BX models, but you have made excellent points, and helped me look, and evaluate more effectively, and set me up for much better questions before I buy, especially questions for the Service guys: what is going to break first? Best 3rd party alternatives? and others…. Thanks!

I LOVE my B2320. BX is just too small. I got mine with a quick hitch so I can swap between my dozer blade and the 51 inch snow blower. WOW! My B2320 cost me $15,000 with the quck hitch and blade back in 2009 when I bought it. Tractor is prolly still worth that or more!

Jack....You are an amazing man and I would not put up with this garbage from Kubota. I will swing by and pick up that heap and take it off you hands....cause that is what a real friend does. LOL Another great vlog bud. I can't believe you still have beets and greens in your garden. Our okra is over 8 feet tall....what does that have to do with anything? It means it's stinking hot!!!!

Fixing the ROP should be easy if the holes are pretty close. Fold it down and use a "step drill" (Unibit) and enlarge the inner holes just a tiny bit (one step)

I don't have the BX, but i do Have L3560. Like you said most things I really like about the tractor, a few things could be better. I think the tractor could use a strong spring on the seat. I think the hydraulic fluid could come with dye or an easier way to see your level on the dipstick. My final gripe, it would be nicer to have a better brush guard. The one from the factory doesn't protect the tractor from smaller sticks.

The shifter can be bent to allow for fueling up with any gas can spout. Unless they figure that everyone will carry a funnel with them upon the many other needed tools already to get job tasks done. Extra pins are always a YES !

On my BX the ROPS pins drop right in very easily. And my throttle is very tight even after three rears. There are times I wished I had gone up in size myself. But the BX fits in so many tight areas where any other tractor would not work. And with my little 12 acre place anything larger would just be in the way. I'm thankful for it every time I jump in the seat. Oh, as far as the fuel fill. I fought that too and hated fumbling with those heavy cans and stupid spouts. So I built a 55 gallon fueling station using a plastic drum and an electric pump with a filling station nozzle on it from Amazon. When the tank gets almost empty I set it in the bed of my pickup, go fill it up, then use my front loader to scoop it off and set it back down. By the way, the whole setup cost under $100.

10:17 get a battery powered electric fuel transfer pump. It is $75 and transfers fuel without spilling or lifting.

Gas can fix...Go to tractor supply and get their gas can spout kit (sold next to their gas cans). It gives you a vent that you install and regular spout just like the good old gas cans we use to have. This "update kit" only cost around $12 and is worth every penny!

I also had my fan break from a stick and the radiator housing

I've had the throttle problem with the nut used red loc-tite good. Rops yea I carry a hammer for the implements so I use itn no older so none of those problems. The fuel I went on Amazon and got 3 new spouts for my fuel cans my aim is pretty good but sometimes I still use a funnel this works great.

Sorry but gas can issues. See modification. I use tire valves for vent and normal spouts. The EPA cans I spill more fuel than mine. I had a guy chase me down a road because my EPA can fell over and was dumping out my truck.

Loosen the bolts a little on the Rops. It’ll make it easier to install the pins. Had same issue with mine. A little WD40 helps too. Oh, and made a skid plate for mine as well to protect the fan. Never had an issue.

I too have noticed the annoyance of the ROPS. I always put mine down while mowing due to low limbs and find myself struggling too much to get those dern pins back in. Usually takes a lot of wiggling and/or thumb pad bruising from trying to tap the rops back where it needs to be. Thank you for mentioning the fan! If changing the fan isn’t an option for kubota maybe they could at least improve the skid plate. The factory plate is just shy of a waste. A lot of people also have complaints about the fuel filters and more specifically the one located under the tractor. I’m just shy of 60 hours and although they don’t specify to swap all filters and fluids, I’m doing them all but the coolant. I spent 18k on a tractor, no reason not to do extra preventative maint. Overall I am extremely pleased with mine as well :)

Excellent thoughts..thanks

8:07 get yourself a metal Just Rite 5 gallon can. I hate those plastic gas cans, always breaking, leaking fuel. Switched over to the metal cans and no regrets, totally worth the cost. It'll solve your problem and they'll last forever.

Dude I feel your pain I have the same complaints about mine every single one. Also 2 or 3 grease zirks have fallen out or broken off within the first 50 hours. Or they have orange paint on them.

I work on these machines regularly. I think I can address most of these issues. 1. When trying to put the ROPS in the upright position, loosen the tension knobs first. Put the ROPS in the upright position, insert pins. Retention the knobs. 2. The throttle. This is an ongoing issue with these tractors. Some are loose from the factory. If you have one that’s loose, contact your dealer and they should be able to take care of it. If it’s out of warranty, it is easily corrected by properly tensioning the nut and jam nut. 3. The 3rd function. The 3rd function valves are normally installed at the dealer. If you are questioning the durability of the wiring/harness etc, I would talk to them. That’s not necessarily a Kubota issue. 4. Piranha tooth bar. I could be wrong but I don’t think that’s a Kubota item. See the dealer who installed it. 5. Grab bar. That’s not a tractor issue. That’s a you got the wrong jug issue. Call your congressman. 6. “Hydraulic fan” that’s the fan for your Hydro. The BX is a residential machine. It’s not meant to be crawling through the woods. It’s meant to move some light loads here and there on mowed grass. To change that fan is easily done by removing the motor. The motor can be removed in less than an hour with coffee breaks. Once the motor is removed, take the shaft loose from the hydro. It’s not a 5,6,7 hr job. I hope this helps. I didn’t write this to sh$t on your video. I wrote this to help people with common problems. Good Luck and next time get a B series.😂

Loosen the thumb screws on the front of the rops. They are for taking out the slack out and retighten after the pins are in.

Have you tried to use the big screw knob in front of the ROP to line up holes?

If you would back out the screws on the front of the ROPS the pins would go in; then relighted the two screws after the pins are in.

I think all tractors with those add-on cutting edges either have bolts on them, or they protrude into the inside of the bucket to some extent. Makes for manually loading and unloading stuff a pain, and when it comes time to replace that bolt on cutting edge especially you'll fight with getting those bolts out as the threads have been beat to crap. I agree the design on that could be better. That 3rd function valve wiring, I'd just go get a 3 or 4 pin trailer light plug and wire it into one of those, its still quick connect and it'll be much better for placement to be mounted against the side of the tractor out of the way and no more dangling wires, that's a wiring mess waiting to happen right there wow. I'll skip the 3rd function too when I purchase my tractor soon.

I can't believe one of your complaints isn't about the seat, I bought a new BX2370 and the ride is horrible.......... if I knew what I know now I would have never bought it. Thanks for sharing.

buy a replacement fuel nozzle for that can on amazon. a must!

Great tips, thanks!

Grind down the ROPS pin point and it will be easy to line it up and hammer it into place or to push it in by hand

My biggest complaint is the separate peddle for reverse. If you backing up a hill its very hard to push down. Gas can issue I just use a funnel. thanks,

Could you take a metal drill bit to the problem hole on the ROPS and just take a tiny bit off to help slide the pin in and out? Not sure about Warranties etc though.

Those two knobs near the pins on the ROPS are what you adjust so the holes line up.

1, the ROPS has adjustment knobs, if the pin doesn't go in look at the hold and adjust as necessary, 2, the throttle control I would expect from a store install, they don't want to over tighten things. I would put a touch of thread locker on it. 3, yes that is pretty janky 3rd function elect. Yuck... why isn't it mounted better... 4, the factory cutting edge is exactly that, factory. Designed for easy replacement and mass production with industry standard to hopefully reduce prices. 5, get a funnel... simple.... Great video and great points!

Try the 5 gallon diesel can that’s shorter than the one you are using with the 90 degree push button. They work really well for the exact position your dealing with. The fuel fill on my Deere is in the middle of my hood and that can works perfect. I believe It was from Tractor Supply

On the hyd fan check onkine for an after market company that makes a bolt on skid plate i have a massey and i found a skid plate they make for the hyd fan

You know the gas can neck is not suppose to be used with 2 hands! The neck has that spur that sticks out that you hook on the side of the filler neck and you push the whole can down. They are actually genius, but slow. Just drill out your RAD pin and spray some paint on it. What are you expecting for $25,000, perfection?

Purchase an extra pin. Machine the one (or 2) pin down 25/ thousandths or greater this should give you enough wiggle room to get the other pin in so you have both pins secured. I think the tubing is a wear point and over time it will break in? I don’t own the tractor, but I can’t imagine them being misaligned from the factory, when you say you need a mallet to get the second one in... keep the spout and get a second knurled cap, attach some clear tubing and shelf the safety spout. If your storing the fuel you might want to switch? I think motorcycle shops that sell dirt bikes would have a better alternative?

nice video, on the rops if you adjust the plastic knobs on the front of the hinge it lines the holes up perfectly

Problem #1. Get a step bit and some paint. #2 thread locker.

Hi Jack if you unbolted the second cutting edge before you put the piranha bar on the bolts would be there. The way you got it now you have three cutting edges on your bucket.

I do not have any equipment that i find easy to refill with fuel. If the can is full its worse. I put a clear plastic hose about 1.5 feet long that is curved downwards that fits tightly on the end of the spout. So much easier to fill anything and rarely spill fuel.

Could the handles be swapped either side so they point forward?

Great video. But 5:02 I have to ask what is the aftermarket 3rd function? I just bought this tractor with the mowing deck front bucket and rear rotary tiller. I’m naive to everything and have only 5 hours on it thus far. So far I’ve only experienced the crappy gas tank placement lol

I forgot to mention on the subject of the ROPS, aren't those black knobs there for adjustment? I thought my salesman said they could be adjusted as things got out of whack over time.

That connector is dealer installed. They should have run it to the loader lever

A funnel? How about replace the vent less nozzle with an available replacement nozzle available on line

My factory 3rd function button is on the loader control knob . Interesting

What about installing and taking off the mower deck? Is it easy? Tractors may be owned mostly by do it yourselfers. How easy is it to work on? Is it built with maintenance in mind?

Another thing on the fan blade ... If they modified that with a spined shaft and put a threaded bolt into end of the slip shaft with a 2 piece gear that bolted with the slip shat to the main shaft, seems suffice. The fan should be of a plastic nylon that of the same material that clothes hangers are but with a bit more flexible / bendy without breaking.

For the rops you align the pin hole with the threaded knob

The reason they put bolts instead of weld on the bucket so you can change the cutting edge easier most people can't weld anyway so its just easier that way you could always take them out and weld it if you wanted to.

Get a fuel pump. No strain no spill. Getting mine in 3 weeks Good job

Any reason to get the BX over the B? I’m struggling to find a good reason, other than the cost...but even there they’re close

A good drill bit will settle the rops problem and a funnel will help with the fuel problem .

What is wrong with using a funnel or take the handle off to refuel. I bought a 15 gallon high flow with a hand pump with a hose.

A bigger tractor would help a lot for any digging. Glad that a knowledgeable salesman convinced me not to go too small. Best thing I ever did was buy a three point hitch mounted finishing mower and get rid of that useless belly mower. Out in the woods the belly mower was always catching on something and just a nuisance and it really isn't trivial to take on and off. Hanging under the tractor, it's always in the way and although most people don't get this until they've used one, a rear mounted mower is a hundred times better for maneuvering close to things, or getting under shrubbery. When it's on the 3 point hitch it adds dearly needed counterweight to keep the rear wheels on the ground when lifting anything heavy. I also found that a lot of third party loaders and related attachments are actually built a lot better than Kubota's. The tractors themselves though... wonderful little machines.

$25,000 tractor?!? Wow! They only cost around $16,000 with a loader where I live. Nice tractor, though. I am on the fence between the bx1880 and bx2380.

If these are the only things you hate about your Kubota then it speaks extremely well for Kubota! Thy are so trivial that the company should be overjoyed to find such a hate list. I’ve owned so many different pieces of equipment over the years and my Kubota is my favorite, hands down! I never have to make repairs on it, it is very forgiving of my torture to it, and it never complains. I can’t say that for much else I’ve owed over the years. So, even though there are a couple minor idiosyncrasies, big whoop. I just got a big funnel and take the stupid spout off the diesel can, tighten the nut when the throttle seems loose, put my undercarriage guard on in the woods, make the dang hole a tiny bit bigger on the ROPS. If that’s all it takes, damn I’m am a lucky man! You should be darn happy to be an owner of such a fine little piece of equipment…I am! Just think of the issues you’d have if you bought the John Deere. Oh yeah, nice veggies brother.

Good points

If the alignment is off it’s a warranty problem. See your dealer!

Good video! I've owned and operated several pieces of heavy equipment over the years and the bolts that hold the teeth on the bucket of all front end loaders are universally the same as on your tractor. Theres got to be a better way of doing it!

hi Jack , Great video. I am about to buy one like yours, I have a question - are these strong enough to dig out a Culvert? How is the power on the Bucket?

I would drill those holes out for the ROPS pins so they slide in and out easier....someone at the manufacturing facility really should think about that as well from the initial manufacturing standpoint. The throttle on my BX2680 is already starting to loosen itself up as well, I think I'll take it apart put a bit of lock-tite on it and put it back together. Good to know about that 3rd function kit being very sloppy. I'll definitely look at a 3rd party option if I ever need the 3rd function capability...as of right now I'm having a hard enough time just getting the 60" mower deck and pallet forks that I ordered with the tractor LOL...so getting any other implements and attachments is totally out of the question right now sadly. I've got some ideas in mind for some additional implements in the future but with manufacturing and import issues for supplies everyone is having problems right now so I'm waiting indefinitely on everything and just working with what I have. I've refueled my tractor twice now, and with the link I left in another comment a while back with a replacement spout and vent, I think that is a better option where you can bend the nozzle around to get into the filler hole much better...I need to see if I can find a link to the other spout I have on one of my other cans that has about a 18 inch spout which would be even better. I have the BXPANDED skid plate on my tractor now, I feel better having it on there even though I don't have anything around the property that I could think of that would end up in the HST fan, but don't want to take chances LOL. Especially if I ever have to take the tractor to a family member's property to do work. I have 14 hours on my BX2680 and so far the only issues I've had were caused by myself and my lack of experience and knowledge about tractors. The latest being the loader damage that bent the loader arms from trying to put the loader back on and one side of it not dropping down into the mount on the tractor before trying to raise the loader to lock it in place....it tweaked something in the loader arm(s) as it doesn't seem to sit right on the tractor. They came out and looked at it and are supposed to let me know what the fix was...they have fixed it but I haven't been around to see what they did LOL. They just told me that they were able to take care of the issue. During the installation of the BXPANDED skid plate, I also found that the mower deck adjustment knob wouldn't go to the TOP position...luckily in the installation instructions for the skid plate it tells you how to adjust it, got it all readjusted and working great now....I'm wondering if some of these items are just from the machine slowly breaking in and things falling into or out of place due to the break-in period....I wouldn't think so, but that deck height adjustment linkage is getting lock-tited into place if it gets out of adjustment again LOL. I should have gotten the bucket level indicator because I keep having issues of not knowing if the bucket is flat when trying to go into a pile of material, I've dug up a few places in the yard as a result....ooops, guess maybe the grass might grow back LOL. I have been thinking of getting the rear remote kit installed so I can install a hydraulic top link for being able to adjust the forward/backward angle of my box blade without having to manually adjust the top link all the time and then having to readjust it for other implements/attachments afterwards. The box blade honestly I think should have a hydraulic front/rear adjustment LOL, would make using it so much easier going from pitched forward when using the scarifier teeth, to pitched back farther for grading and leveling applications. I know though that the box blade works great on my gravel driveway, happy to have it for sure. I have used my roto-tiller a couple times and I keep forgetting to adjust the skid shoes so it'll till deeper, but I'm very happy with it, it does a great job of pulverizing everything and leaves a nice even look to the ground afterwards without any huge clumps left behind like my old Troy Bilt roto-tiller would do. The reverse rotation of the tines lets the tiller really dig in and work. This tiller has a shear bolt plus a slip clutch on the PTO, so its double protected I guess, or at least if the slip clutch doesn't slip like its supposed to the shear bolt hopefully protects things LOL. It looks like overall service and maintenance on this tractor will be pretty easy to do, and keep up with. At only 14 hours on the tractor I have greased the loader a few times already, and even with a pistol grip grease gun it doesn't require much effort and time. I do have a pneumatic grease gun but by the time I wait for my air compressor to fill I can easily hit all the grease points on the loader by hand...and I'm assuming the loader doesn't have any seals in those grease areas to blow out, so I guess using a powered grease gun on it wouldn't be a problem...I'd worry about doing the greasing on my roto-tiller that has bearings and seals though with a powered grease gun.

use a rattle siphon 4 fueling its the bees knees. In Alaska we use atv waste oil jugs for fuel works like a charm it has a vent but the end hose only lasts a year or so with gas. JUST DONT FORGET YOUR SIPHON UNATTENDED FUEL WILL GET EVERYWERE!!!!! . PS THE SMALL TRACKTORS ARE THE WRONG TOOL FOR EVERY JOB . GET A small DOZER WITH BACKHOE CAN DO ALOT.