Your level of self control is amazing. Not a single instance of a 'screw up' joke or a 'that's what she said'video clip shows how much you have grown as a person.
Remember to knock 30% off the torque when tightening a lubricated fastener, otherwise it's over-tightened. Unless otherwise stated in the service manuals, given torque settings refer to a "dry" fastener. A "dry" fastener refers to a new fastener that comes with a light protective oil coating. So when reusing fasteners it's a good idea to rub the threads down with a lightly oiled rag and torque to spec, or use anti-seize and torque to 70% of spec.
Oh wow, that's a rabbit hole that you exposed there! I generally use the same torque specs (so far on my channel) because I haven't been doing any critical engine components (head bolts, rocker arms, intake manifolds). When getting into critical specs, it gets a lot more complicated. A good manufacturer (like Porsche) will give a high/low range, for "with and without" lube. Some manufacturer specs are calculated with lube, others not. I would compromise with you and say to back off 10%. I think there is more risk in under torque than over. Here's an example of how stupid crazy this can get: T=F×[(0.159×P)+(0.577×d×μ)+(D_f×μ/2)] Where T = Torque Applied (Nm) F = Tension Generated in Fastener (N) P = Thread Pitch (m) d = Pitch Diameter (m) Df = Nut Friction Diameter (m) μ = Coefficient of Friction PSA: never use anti-seize on lug nuts.
There is a product called Tef-Gel that prevents galvanic corrosion on stainless steel screws into aluminum. I'm not sure if it works on HC steel but it might be worth checking out.
This was far more entertaining than I expected! I just wanted to know if anti-seize would prevent my hat stretcher's aluminum turnbuckle body from stripping further.
I believe i over tightened an engine mount bolt ...i heard a bang sound. When i removed the bolt, it came out with a spring. Any idea what happened? Is the thread damaged in the hole or thread damaged on bolt....i just ordered a new bolt hoping it tighten again...
Cheap taps are often made from carbon steel. The quality taps are made from a type of tool steel called high speed steel , labeled HSS. If you are chasing a thread in an engine block don’t waste time and money on cheap taps. It’s just not worth the risk. As a side note ,I consider all metallurgy claims from certain parts of the world as suspect. If the cheap tap is a bit soft it won’t cut. If it’s a bit too hard it will be brittle and before you know it you broke it off in your hole. Either scenario is a bad day. Just get the good tap. If It doesn’t say High speed steel or HSS it isn’t. They will always be marked.
A few years ago I bought a tap and die set from harbor freight for 30 bucks and surprisingly it wasn't bad. As long as you remember to take it easy on them, they'll last quite a while. I know they're bottom of the line but it's all I could afford and they've paid for themselves. Someday I'll buy the good shit but if you're poor like me it'll get you by.
Taps don't repair. They cut. A great way to ensure a bolt never goes into a hole again and torques to spec is to tap it. You want a thread chaser. It repairs the threads inside without removing nearly as much material as a tap does. You usually get better results. If you have to drill a hole out for a bigger size bolt. that's when you tap it. If all you have is a tap, it can work, but it's usually a subpar repair.
