In this video I'm going to show you how to replace both fuel filters in your 6.0/6.4 powerstroke diesel. It is a very simple job and takes minimal tools.
I'm proud to say I just learned how to change my fuel filters on my 2005 f250 6 l diesel from a kid half my age and I am not ashamed to say it thank you young man
You know, for what looks like a young kid, this video was very professional, and you are extremely informative, and Knowledgeable. Keep up the great work.
Nicely done. It helped me out on my excursion. 36mm socket for the lower fuel filter with a 6mm hex key for the fuel separator drain. 24mm socket for the engine fuel filter.
Awesome video! One thing my uncle showed me to do to make the fuel filter under the truck easier to install was just put in inside the cap first. The fuel filter just clicks on with those clips on the top
The filter on the bottom of vehicle was a nightmare trying to undo the cap while fuel spilling in all different directions 😠 On the bright side my wife says I smell like a real man now, thanks to all that diesel spilling on me 😀 Thanks for the video!
Excellent video, if you use a longer extension on the primary filter cap your ratchet will be in the clear behind the cross member, allowing for a bigger swings of the ratchet instead of minimal swings banging off of the driveshaft continuously.
Great instructions. The only thing you forgot to mention was that, when changing the primary filter under the truck, you'll need a large bowl to catch the gallon of fuel that drains out of the system.
Great video. The dealership just tried to charge me $721.83 to change these two fuel filters... I just did it myself for the cost of the filters for $61.09
ALWAYS DRAIN THE FUEL WATER SEPARATOR!!! I bought an 07 F250 that a week after I drove it home I had the Water in Fuel message up on the dashboard. So I did what everyone else does and watched 4 different videos on how to do it. I got me trusty oil pan and 6mm Allen Wrench socket and ratchet and climbed underneath the truck and found the"FUEL MANIFOLD" and the Water Fuel drain plug. Took my 6mm Allen socket and put it in the plug an tried to turn it with my hand and it moved a little so I kept turning it. I got about a 1/4 turn and the water started coming out so I let it run down my arm and into the pan. When I felt fuel coming out I "TRIED" to tighten the plug up, but it wouldn't tighten up. I pulled it out which really increased the flow and looked at the plug and 3/4 of the thread area was gone. So I put it back in as good as I could to stop the flow of fuel to just a dribble and went in search of something, anything to plug the hole until I could go to the dealership (because they were closed) to get one. I found a small rubber radiator plug that I could tighten to stop the flow completely. I took the old one to the parts department the next morning in my other truck to make sure I got the right one. They said that there was 2 different ones so I showed him mine and he said that I definitely needed a new one but that wasn't the worst one that he had seen. He said one came in with fuel coming out of the 6mm Allen hole in the plug. I wish I could show a picture of mine. It had a triangle from the plug with 2 threads on it. The only thing that was holding it in was road grime and the will of God. They are known to rust if the water isn't drained regularly. I ordered one from Amazon that is bilitted Aluminum and it has a T shape at the backside of the plug that is also threaded so if you take the plug out it doesn't fall into the pan. (They make them for oil and transmission drains too!) I'll put that one on when I change the fuel filters for the first time and the stock will go into the glove box just in case. So long story short, If you haven't been draining your water/fuel separator, or you don't know if yours has been draining regularly. Get a new plug just in case because NONE OF THE VIDIOS THAT I WATCHED WARNED ME ABOUT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN!
Good job, man! The only objection I have is letting fuel from engine filter drip back in. The outside is the "dirty" side of filter! I just use a coffee can lid, or small pan to prevent drips. Nice vid tho! Keep em comin..
@@j.r.w7636 if you haven't already figured it out already, yes both filters come in the Motorcraft 4616 box . And be sure to get the weep hole orientation to the top when installing the big filter it has a tab the should catch to keep the hole to the top side. Perhaps start with the weep hole @ the 9 o'clock position then push the filter in and then turn the filter clock wise and the tab should stop it at the 12 o'clock position. And usually using a socket on the top cap will prevent cracking the cap or stripping it. And use a 6mm hex to drain the water separator 1st. And when finished cycle the key to on engine off position 3 times to get fuel back into the system.
Thanks. Wasn't sure about the one on the frame rail. I knew about the one on top. Can you do a video about draining the water from the water separator?
Great video I just got my 2003 6 L diesel engine F350 back up and running after sitting for 6 years I replaced the batteries and drained the fuel water separator and it fired right up when 6 year old diesel fuel in the tank I had a half a tank in there but one thing I forgot about was all the condensation and crap that were built in the tank after sitting so long it ran fine for about an hour or so but after letting it sit for a few hours I went back out to Crank It Up and it started initially but sputtered and died so more than likely I clogged both fuel filters hopefully I didn't clog the injectors
6 years? wow. I am always afraid that my truck wont start after 10 months. I know you need to put some extra stuff to the gas, or it wont work after 12 months, but I have never seen that liquid for Diesel... so does Diesel last forever?
This is helpful because I'm about to do my first 6.0. But I'm not going to spin and drain the dirty filter over the canister so everything the element has captured goes right into what is supposed to be clean?
6mm hex wrench, to the right of the filter cap towards the front of the truck. The Allen head bleeder port bolt is in a tight spot between the filter housing and the front drive shaft. Be slow and careful when taking it out, if you're not it will pop out quick and you'll be taking a bath in diesel fuel.
Several times I've found the upper filter lid too tight, and the 1/2 drive tries to split the plastic. If you use a wrench,15/16" that will re-enforce the outer hex so the 1/2 ratchet will work and not ruin the lid. Thanks,good vid .
I read this too late. I used the 1/2 inch drive and split the cap. Then I got the 24mm socket and it stripped the cap completely (probably due to the fact that I split it...). Then I got clamps to hold the thing together while trying the 1/2 drive again...and it ripped it completely off! I had to saw the cap in half and then chisel it off piece by piece...a 10 minute job turned into a couple hours. The cap was $50 to replace. Lesson learned. I still appreciate the video as it was straight forward and gave me the confidence to do the job myself. I do suggest using the 24mm socket on the top filter though.
Use a 2 - 2 1/2 foot extension - much easier, good video, wear safety glasses , gloves and always replace old o-rings. And drain the water catch housing first.
ALWAYS DRAIN THE FUEL WATER SEPARATOR!!! I bought an 07 F250 that a week after I drove it home I had the Water in Fuel message up on the dashboard. So I did what everyone else does and watched 4 different videos on how to do it. I got me trusty oil pan and 6mm Allen Wrench socket and ratchet and climbed underneath the truck and found the"FUEL MANIFOLD" and the Water Fuel drain plug. Took my 6mm Allen socket and put it in the plug an tried to turn it with my hand and it moved a little so I kept turning it. I got about a 1/4 turn and the water started coming out so I let it run down my arm and into the pan. When I felt fuel coming out I "TRIED" to tighten the plug up, but it wouldn't tighten up. I pulled it out which really increased the flow and looked at the plug and 3/4 of the thread area was gone. So I put it back in as good as I could to stop the flow of fuel to just a dribble and went in search of something, anything to plug the hole until I could go to the dealership (because they were closed) to get one. I found a small rubber radiator plug that I could tighten to stop the flow completely. I took the old one to the parts department the next morning in my other truck to make sure I got the right one. They said that there was 2 different ones so I showed him mine and he said that I definitely needed a new one but that wasn't the worst one that he had seen. He said one came in with fuel coming out of the 6mm Allen hole in the plug. I wish I could show a picture of mine. It had a triangle from the plug with 2 threads on it. The only thing that was holding it in was road grime and the will of God. They are known to rust if the water isn't drained regularly. I ordered one from Amazon that is bilitted Aluminum and it has a T shape at the backside of the plug that is also threaded so if you take the plug out it doesn't fall into the pan. (They make them for oil and transmission drains too!) I'll put that one on when I change the fuel filters for the first time and the stock will go into the glove box just in case. So long story short, If you haven't been draining your water/fuel separator, or you don't know if yours has been draining regularly. Get a new plug just in case because NONE OF THE VIDIOS THAT I WATCHED WARNED ME ABOUT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN!
I have a vt365 bus I am about to do the fuel filter. I always see people using a small valve thing to drain the fuel out of the filter housing and cleaning the sediment out and then put in a new filter. Then they have the bleed the air out of it somehow. You seemed to not have to do all that? I know the vt365 is similar to the 6.0 power stroke so I’m hoping mine is simple like this
Do both filters come in the same box? Or are they both the same filters and I need to get 2? And do I neeed to do anything with the fuel water separator?
The Weather Nutz the bottom one has a weep hole there should be a notch on the filter insert it with the notch to the left and rotate the filter to the right till it hard stops that insures that the weep hole is in the proper position and makes it so that filter doesn’t rotate from the position when you put the cap back on
I don't understand the constant changing of filters with the reformulated diesel we use today. I understand doing maintenance to keep your warranty valid but it would be nice if you showed the dirty filter and rated its dirt level and commented on lower performance or whatever the issue for changing them so soon is. The truck doesn't just stop when they get dirty to a certain point, does it?
True diesel is cleaner, but the filters are much finer to protect the fancy modern injectors. The primary one filters down to 10 micron and the secondary one filters down to three microns. To put this in perspective, a single red blood cell is EIGHT microns in diameter! Needless to say, as a result of this super fine filtration, they clog faster than the older filters. Will your truck suddenly stop with a partially clogged filter? No. It will start and run just fine. However, when you are pulling a big trailer up a steep mountain grade; injectors dumping as much fuel as they possibly can into the engine, your fuel pressure could start to drop. And running hard, high RPM, hot temperatures, a little injector suddeny stops getting fuel. And without lubrication or cooling from the fuel, the tiny injector tip seizes shut. And you have a dead injector. Or worse, you end up with diesel knock and a hole in your piston. Moral of the story, just change them every 50k like the manual says. Why chance it?
Absolutely especially with a 6.0l when the filter gets clogged up fuel will not pass and it will not get appropriate fuel pressure and also it keeps shit from the picky injectors the 6.0l has compared to the simple 7.3 injectors
