This is a job that I’ve got coming up soon. I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I want to esc on the vanes and the unison ring. I’ve also just ordered that stud cleaner. I haven’t seen one like that before. I just have the kit that comes with the wire brush. Works great, but doesn’t clean the surrounding surface.
hey man. i'm having a BEAR of a time gettng the turbo back in. it will NOT line up on the pedestal and i keep popping the drain tube out of the HPOP housing. any advice?
I Stopped using antiseize on the turbos when I started seeing them come into the shop down the road and the antiseize was dried up and effecting unison ring and vane operation.
@@InTheShop Thats interesting... I was told to use copious amounts... I read that Ford recommends engine oil and states NO anti-seize and now I understand why, thank you.
I take all my turbo parts down to the local machine shop and have them run it through there cleaning tank, looks new which makes it a nice clean job when you get it back. Super easy to reassemble and looks like new. Thanks for your videos
Hey, that was an awesome video and definitely a video on pulling and reinstalling them would be great! Wow, sure demystifyed the Variable Vane thing for me. Always wonderd how that works! Im definitely glad to have run into your channel and have suscribed and liked! Thanks again!!
One critical comment. I can't believe that you did all of that cleaning with the oil ports on the turbo center section NOT plugged and with the center section sitting next to the exhaust housing when you were cleaning it. The smallest dust and dirt in the turbo bearings will take them out. Something that spins at 50,000 to 100,000 RPM needs more love than that.
Great information and I would love to see that video on how to pull the turbo goes out on a 600 also I love that phrase there's a lot of ways to skin a cat
The second thing that I would comment on is that you did not put the Motorcraft Nickel based Ford Fluid XL-2 antisease on the unison ring when you put it back together. The Nickel based antisease is good to 2500 degrees. Do not use the copper or aluminum based antisease unless you like taking the turbo off and on. The Ford Fluid XL-2 is generally cheap at the Ford dealer. I just paid, Jan 2024, $5 a can for some it is usually $10 or so so someone may have made a pricing mistake so I purchased 3 cans which should be, assuming that I can find them, a many life time supply. Use the antisease it makes a difference.
I like the video I’m not a mechanic I own a van with 6.0 l paid to fix my van and I have a bad oil leak on top of turbo on the feed oil line it uses a Gasket?? I take the line apart and I don’t see any gasket tanks
Thank you for your help I have 2005 6.0 Engine running great but after start driving go too slow feels like heavy? Computer said injectors works great, turbo replace last month
Great video! I gave it a like and subscribed.. I just picked up a 04 Excursion 6.0 and she needs some love.. so I’ll be watching all your related videos!
Me too, it has turned into quite a money pit. This guy will save me a fortune or at least give me a fighting chance. Love the excursion when it’s running
Vary good job excellent explication. I have 05 ford econoline e350 hevy duty has code po299 before to get tha code when i drive da van after 20 minutes it's not power tha most was 35 mile o ln tha freway so can you help me? Please
ryan adams I don’t but if you know how to weld I have a video that is labeled as broken exhaust manifold bolts but the technique can be used on almost any broken bolt.
Thank you for this informative and helpful how to vid! Wondering if I need to clean my 07 Turbo? my truck surges/bucks/lugs when going up inclines, until kicked down to the next lower gear, Checked, tested and cleaned Map sensor, EBP sensor, EGR valve, Intake & Intercooler coupler boots, still have issue, any suggestions?
It very well could be. The easiest way to test is to unplug the VGT solenoid at idle and see if the engine/exhaust sound changes. If it doesn’t change the turbo vanes are likely stuck.
This should be done any time the turbo is out for another engine repair or if the turbo veins are sticking. Symptoms can be a lack of boost, too much boost, or any intermittent combination of the two.
Nathan, i'm having an issue on my 06 6.0 dually where it will go into limp mode after a long sustained full throttle pull. If i shut it down while coasting, then fire it back up, it goes right back to normal and the wrench light is off. But its starting to do that more often. I believe its throwing an overboost deep code. Can this occur if the veins are dirty? Any other suggestions? Any help is much appreciated!
@@InTheShop I pulled the turbo this last week, and sure enough. The veins and disc were filthy. When I pulled the codes, I had an underboost, overboost. Thanks for the help!
Do you not clean the mating surfaces of the hotside and center section? Mines leaking out of the clamp that hold them together doesn't seem stretched or anything. And no it's not up pipes
@@InTheShop okay well looks like she's coming off this week. It's all sooted on the vband clamp that holds the hotside to the center section and exhaust is leaking through the little hole in the clamp. Joy of 6.0s lol
when going up hill , i get turbo fart and the turbo gauge goes from 20 down to 12 psi them goes back up to 20 then down again to 12 .Could that be the vane sticking ? Thank you for your help
I used to put anti seize on the hot side but I found that it dries up and can cause the veins to stick. Even though the antiseize will prevent galling it turns into a hard paste especially once it collects some soot. I found longer time between cleanings when I don’t use it.
@@InTheShop awesome, thank you for the reply, and the insight on the ins and outs of the 6.0. Thanks for giving not only myself, but others the confidence and courage to go out and work on our trucks!!!
Benjamin Hansen I don’t like using anti seize. They come from the factory dry. I’ve pulled many apart after someone used antiseize and it was all dried out and caked
28 foot pounds for the turbo bolts. If you have an '03 best of luck getting the bolt on the back torqued. I just really snug it up good, and live by what my dad taught me as a kid regarding bolts: "tight is tight, too tight is broke". There is a reason most rebuild and o-ring kits for these come with new bolts, because it is common for at least one to fall out.
@@InTheShop So I looked and I do have a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger side. And I can hear the tick. Would that really cause the turbo to squeal like that? I checked the turbo for play. Only a little up and down not back and forth. Thanks for any advice you give really dig your channel
@@mf8913 if the truck had exhaust manifold gaskets (they didn’t have them from the factory but were done down the road) and you have a broken bolt the pressure escaping can make the gasket vibrate just like a reed on a woodwind instrument. I would also closely inspect the up pipes though because a small crack can cause the same noise. He reason it goes away when you unplug the Vgt is because when the VGT is unplugged the vanes open all the way up and exhaust pressure drops.
@@InTheShop Yes you're right. It has old metal gaskets that are toast. I will check the up pipes next. Ohh yes that's makes sense for the vgt. So it's more likely related to the exhaust and not the turbo. Man I really really appreciate the info and time to reply. Thanks so much
