what if ' you could design an extension that would screw into oil sensor hole ' extending out far enough to change oil sensor without taking the whole top of motor apart
Not long ago I spent a ton of money replacing 2 batteries, fuel pump, ICP, IPR, high pressure oil pump and all 4 left bank injectors. The truck, 2003 F-250 , 6.0 power stroke ran very well f for about 3 months. Now, it cranks and runs fine when starting cold. After it runs a while, it won't crank. All work was done professionally. I give up. I will not spend another dime. I have it for sale. Any ideas that I might pass on to a prospective buyer? I wish I would have kept my 97.
Why can't they come up with a reliable fix for the HP oil leaks? You have to change he standpipes and dummy plugs at the same rate that other vehicles get oil changes.
👌🏽 clean video! You make it look too easy! Question should the coils and rubbers be marked before removing or is there no wrong way to reinstall the coils?
Bro, great video! Thank you so much. The only issue is it was to easy!!! You took that rotor off with no issue, where’s all the rust and banging with a hammer!! LoL.
Good evening, saw your video, great, Just wondering how the new dust seal gets installed? on the front Axle assembly, or is it pushed in? When you install the axle shaft and that new seal gets installed at the same time, please let me know, thx😊
Hey buddy you do awesome work!. And this is by far the best how to video i have ever seen. Man it's great every detail. And you take the time to walk through every little hint to help with every step from start to finish. Thank you so much
The stock MAP sensor only reads to just below 30psi. If you have a setup that makes more than 30lbs of boost and you want to read accurately on a monitor or datalog you need this. If you don’t make more than 30psi you don’t need it.
This problem is intermittent which differentiates it from slop in the steering box etc which is consistent year after year. If you only operate in 2wd can both shafts be removed completely to solve this steering wander problem?
Got held up on making the full install video of the coilovers tonight. When I get back out to the garage to finish the video I’ll include some of that.
Press tool no longer included. Bought a pair of new TTX Ball Joints that are press in exactly as shown here. Also the preload was way off on the ball joint from India. The Indiana Joint also didn't even come with a zerk fitting snap ring or even a new Castle nut. Very disappointing
@InTheShop Well I Ordered an entire new front end for a 2011 charger. So id be potentially looking at some parts from when the line was first launched to made recently Im really impressed with the quality overall 👌 The Upper arm from China's ball joint took all my weight 190lbs ez and it moved 1mm Certainly 1 tone truck strong Ball joint. It was the lower ball joints that I mentioned. 1.being from india And and the tie rods were from china and damn their truck strong to! Time will tell but it appears that the line lf parts is superior to Moog Problem solver. At least out of the box. Like everything with a shit economy. Some outsourcing has been done. This has certainly opened my eyes to Chinese parts not always being the knock offs.
@@InTheShop... Yikes...1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck and 143,000 on the clock... Old 30+years old steering parts are justabout done...Was gonna try MOOG, but another long time Automotive RU-vidr got burned on some suspension parts from them...Didn't even fit...Had to seriously modify them...I don't have a shop..1000's of dollars of tools and specialty this and specialty that...I do all my repairs on the side of the road basically...And, I ain't rich...and these parts ain't cheap...I guess, not wholeheartedly, gonna research MeveTech TTX...See if they make steering parts for my trk...What's your opinion on MevoTech TTX...???
Love the channel. 2017 f-150 cold air intake cat back exhaust 6" lift on35"swatted to buy a tuner . Wife passed away suddenly and now I can't afford one. Thanks again love the channel
We had same vibration. Removed the drive shaft and it’s notchy and not very smooth for sure, but when we drove the vehicle without it to confirm this was the problem, while it’s better it now has a shake at 110-120kph and it’s not as violent. We’ve done lower control arms, sway bar link, tie rod ends. Now need to get alignment done. Also balanced wheels. Any suggestions?
We have 2010 ford edge that vibrates when sharp turning g especially left turn. Sound and vibration is mostly coming from the left rear end. Could it still be the drive shalf with the cv joints?
Love this video. I just did this yesterday. I used a large impact chisel (Hilti) and ended up pulling a lot of the spot welds out, meaning a lot of holes. I'll fix (most of) them, but a sharp chisel or the grinder (as in the video) would be better. The bad part is I saw the read cab mounts --- all 6 have to be replaced and that's a worse job!
I went with the Aldan American coilovers. I’m making a video next week covering all the details. They don’t have a “kit” but have everything you need to get it done.
